OK, How Much Electrical Will I Need To Power A Laptop & T.V. For 24/7

[abnorm]

And don't operate a generator inside your Van garage !

 

[maki2]

You might be able to get by with a much smaller generator. More solar and batteries mean not as big of a generator.

 

[rruff]

T.V. is on all day and night, the computer is on most of the day and I watch both of them at the same time. Typing right now listening to the T.V. .

Most of your TV power use will be the display, so you could potentially save energy that way.

 

[wayne49]

"I looked at a Vevor 48 qt. refer/freezer and it was rated at 80 watts."

Did that rating include ambient air temperature and usage?

Refrigerators/Freezers in a van/RV/tent/car/truck/cardboard box are not in a sticks and bricks controlled environment of 68-72F.

The running power for a Whynter 45qt is specified as 60W no matter the usage or temperature.

The DC running current is specified as 5.3A. I see that figure on my BMS.

Here's what happens when ambient air temps come into the equation:

Whynter specifies power usage for use as a refrigerator or freezer at ambient air temps of 77F, 90F, and 107F.

Ah for a 45QT Whynter:

@77F ambient depending on usage:
39.2F refrigerator:20.5Ah
10.4F freezer:34.8Ah
-0.4F freezer:48.3Ah

@90F:
39.2oF refrigerator:26.5Ah
10.4oF freezer:47Ah
-0.4oF freezer:66.2Ah

@107F
39.2oF refrigerator:34Ah
10.4oF freezer:63.2Ah
-0.4oF freezer:80Ah

 

[bullfrog]

You will have several things to consider when trying to build in a generator into your van. The exhaust must be gotten away from the van and not allowed to enter the living area. You will need to use safety monitors to keep alive should some thing go wrong. Even something as simple as the wind blowing the wrong direction can kill you. You must have clean fresh air coming in. You will be powering the generator with a flammable fuel so precautions like fire extinguishers and safe fire walls/containers that can be secured come into play. The generator will create a lot of heat while running. You will need access to change oil and service it every 100 hours of run time if you expect it to be covered under warranty and last long term. I run mine about 3 to 4 hours to bulk charge and cook breakfast every day with the small solar system I have finishes topping off the batteries to full charge during the day. I have a monthly oil change/service routine. My gasoline powered generator requires fuel treatment for ethanol to keep the warranty in effect, so an additional expense and another reason I prefer propane. My system is pretty old technology therefore a little less efficient and a little more work to maintain but probably not as expensive as yours will be. Motorhomes use exterior compartments to house a generator. You will need to make your living area completely separate from the generator compartment. There are very few generators if any that are recommended to be used anywhere other than in open areas outdoors.

 

[Jim D]

You do not NEED to run a TV all night. You could use talk radio or podcast or even audio books or playlists for distraction if you can’t sleep without noise. There are devices that can play them which are are powered with USB that are not big power consumers.

Forcing your “living on the electrical grid” old habits and patterns into a nomadic life is never going to be cost effective or easy. Try changing away from that TV habit instead of trying to force square pegs into round holes. Human brains are actually pretty good at adapting.

Actually your idea is simple logic. Over the next couple of years I'll try finding some kind of audio only methods of sleep noise . I usually just listen to the T.V. as I lumber off. I don't have to have a silent night to listen for unsavory personalities because when I go to sleep I will turn on the van alarm so if someone comes a messing they will get a big surprise when the alarm goes off and I will wake up.

I'm definitely getting a generator without a doubt. If that Westinghouse is still available when I go van living I will purchase it knowing it makes some noise. I will be happy with it during the summer when the heat hits. I'm going to snow bird it in the summer but it still gets warm to hot in the north sometimes.

 

[Jim D]

"I looked at a Vevor 48 qt. refer/freezer and it was rated at 80 watts."

Did that rating include ambient air temperature and usage?

Refrigerators/Freezers in a van/RV/tent/car/truck/cardboard box are not in a sticks and bricks controlled environment of 68-72F.

The running power for a Whynter 45qt is specified as 60W no matter the usage or temperature.

The DC running current is specified as 5.3A. I see that figure on my BMS.

Here's what happens when ambient air temps come into the equation:

Whynter specifies power usage for use as a refrigerator or freezer at ambient air temps of 77F, 90F, and 107F.

Ah for a 45QT Whynter:

@77F ambient depending on usage:
39.2F refrigerator:20.5Ah
10.4F freezer:34.8Ah
-0.4F freezer:48.3Ah

@90F:
39.2oF refrigerator:26.5Ah
10.4oF freezer:47Ah
-0.4oF freezer:66.2Ah

@107F
39.2oF refrigerator:34Ah
10.4oF freezer:63.2Ah
-0.4oF freezer:80Ah

I just used the Vevor as an example. I haven't made up my mind on what refer/freezer I will go with. I just wanted to get an idea of what kind of power I will need and how to use it well. I saw a video on some refer/freezer the big rig haulers use. There may be some other brands that are popular I don't know about yet.

I don't plan on living in my van in 107 degree temps and if I can avoid the 90 degree temps while staying in Nevada I will.

I have to stay in Nevada because of my Medicaid. If I go out of state and get hurt they will fix me up and stablize me then ship me back to Nevada without my van. This would be bad. If I'm on BLM land or in a state park they may tow it if I'm gone for over 3 days but I will be able to get it back easily.

 

[Jim D]

You will have several things to consider when trying to build in a generator into your van. The exhaust must be gotten away from the van and not allowed to enter the living area. You will need to use safety monitors to keep alive should some thing go wrong. Even something as simple as the wind blowing the wrong direction can kill you. You must have clean fresh air coming in. You will be powering the generator with a flammable fuel so precautions like fire extinguishers and safe fire walls/containers that can be secured come into play. The generator will create a lot of heat while running. You will need access to change oil and service it every 100 hours of run time if you expect it to be covered under warranty and last long term. I run mine about 3 to 4 hours to bulk charge and cook breakfast every day with the small solar system I have finishes topping off the batteries to full charge during the day. I have a monthly oil change/service routine. My gasoline powered generator requires fuel treatment for ethanol to keep the warranty in effect, so an additional expense and another reason I prefer propane. My system is pretty old technology therefore a little less efficient and a little more work to maintain but probably not as expensive as yours will be. Motorhomes use exterior compartments to house a generator. You will need to make your living area completely separate from the generator compartment. There are very few generators if any that are recommended to be used anywhere other than in open areas outdoors.

I hear you. I will have to vent the generator to the outside and pipe the exhaust out also. Hey, when the wind shifts the exhaust from my diesel van engine chokes me so the windows go up.

https://www.electricgeneratorsdirec...mins-&utm_content=DSA - Cummins Onan - Models
I've seen van garages on You Tube that were huge and the bed on top of it was a couple of feet to the roof. I saw one van garage where a female van dweller could crawl through her van garage. My van garage will have plenty of room to access the generator to service it.

I will run my generator to bulk charge my batteries if I need to do so and it sounds like I will but I will use a camping stove to do my cooking. I'm alright with opening a can of room temp corned beef hash and pigging out on it. I can open up a can of Spaghetti O's and be OK with that at room temp.

My generator will be somewhat expensive but what I will save back in the future will be worth it. The electrical energy is just as important to me as my van breaking down.

The generator will only be running while I'm awake. It has CO2 sensors that will shut it down if any toxic fumes build up. I try to be aware and will take steps to keep myself safe.

 

[Camper]

My ICECO 47 qt, 12v refrigerator uses 30 watts on the economy setting and it cools well.

I use a quiet Champion dual fuel gen when I need one.... I run it on easy to transport propane instead.

 

[Solarcoast]

Here's what I did in my box truck, it will be a little more difficult in a van but the same principle applies.

I built a box that opens to the outside via a vented door, I used an RV refer vent set into a larger door made of plywood. The inside is Hardy board over 3/4" ply. Then 2" of polyiso foam board, and then another layer of 3/4" ply. Basically a sandwich of plywood and foam board with hardy board on the inside of the box.

Each layer has all the seams taped with several layers of foil tape and the foam board has seams sealed with high temp expanding foam, the orange stuff. There is a cable entry gland sealed with silicone that has a short pigtail/extension cord plugged into the genny leading out of the box.

I cut two 6" holes in the floor and covered with screen. Added an extension to the exhaust and ran it down through another hole, then rearward out the back of the truck, exiting roughly the same area as the truck's exhaust.


It's a 3500w champion open frame Genny that is 68db I think. A lot louder than the ones you're looking at. When running hard you can hear it but I wouldn't say it's loud. What's more annoying is the vibration you can feel the closer you get to the box, which is situated under a bench area. I'm thinking of incorporating rubber or something into the mounts to cut vibration but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I would suggest making absolutely sure the box is sealed and separated from the living space. Putting vent holes in the floor or the back door, or both, might be required unless you want to leave the door open all the time when running the genny.

To seal the box against the door it might be a good idea to use some thick rubber weatherstripping on both the door and the box edge so that they overlap when the door shuts and ensure a good seal. That will probably be the main difficulty, getting the generator area perfectly sealed from the living space.

Make sure to have carbon monoxide detectors in the van, don't rely on the generators automatic shutdown to save your life.

 

[Jim D]

Here's what I did in my box truck, it will be a little more difficult in a van but the same principle applies.

I built a box that opens to the outside via a vented door, I used an RV refer vent set into a larger door made of plywood. The inside is Hardy board over 3/4" ply. Then 2" of polyiso foam board, and then another layer of 3/4" ply. Basically a sandwich of plywood and foam board with hardy board on the inside of the box.

Each layer has all the seams taped with several layers of foil tape and the foam board has seams sealed with high temp expanding foam, the orange stuff. There is a cable entry gland sealed with silicone that has a short pigtail/extension cord plugged into the genny leading out of the box.

I cut two 6" holes in the floor and covered with screen. Added an extension to the exhaust and ran it down through another hole, then rearward out the back of the truck, exiting roughly the same area as the truck's exhaust.


It's a 3500w champion open frame Genny that is 68db I think. A lot louder than the ones you're looking at. When running hard you can hear it but I wouldn't say it's loud. What's more annoying is the vibration you can feel the closer you get to the box, which is situated under a bench area. I'm thinking of incorporating rubber or something into the mounts to cut vibration but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I would suggest making absolutely sure the box is sealed and separated from the living space. Putting vent holes in the floor or the back door, or both, might be required unless you want to leave the door open all the time when running the genny.

To seal the box against the door it might be a good idea to use some thick rubber weatherstripping on both the door and the box edge so that they overlap when the door shuts and ensure a good seal. That will probably be the main difficulty, getting the generator area perfectly sealed from the living space.

Make sure to have carbon monoxide detectors in the van, don't rely on the generators automatic shutdown to save your life.

This is what another member of this forum did. I'm really impressed at his goal with the generator in the box. I replied to his post asking him if he ran the generator with the lid of the box closed to see what the effects on the generator would be from the heat of the generator motor but he hasn't responded yet.

No, I'm not going to leave the doors open when it's running. I was thinking about cracking the back van doors and using a chain or something to keep them from opening any further. I also was thinking about cutting a hole in the side of the van and putting in a vent panel.

I like the idea of cutting holes in the floor to vent the generator properly since I'm going to have a propane tank near the generator and I have to cut a small hole in the floor for that since propane is heavier than air and if there's a leak the propane will go outside.

It will be alot easier to cut a 6" hole in the floor next to the generator to vent the motor heat. I'm sure during in the winter the heat won't have to be vented but during the summer, yes.

Thanks For The Advice Solarcoast

 

[Happy Camper]

I can't help with everything you need. But I do have a strong suggestion for your nighttime TV listening.

Not sure what your budget is, but I strongly suggest Ultimate Ears Boom portable speakers. A single can last for over 10 hours, longer if volume is lower. They have a full sound, take up very little space, are waterproof, float in water, and charge in 2.5 hours. They also have a hook for hanging out storing.

I have had mine for years and completely abuse them. I have dropped them multiple times from fairly high spots. They still sound great. Stream TV and use the speaker at night, and save the energy of powering a TV screen overnight. Or use an antenna with a digital receiver and use the speaker output.

Specific needs and desires have specific answers. You might be better served solving some individually instead of solving all with one huge answer. Or both, and use the most efficient path when available.

 

[Sofisintown]

I think your numbers are way off. Get a "Kill-A-Watt" about $24, and measure your tv and computer's energy draw. A fridge will draw 35-55 watt per hour, but it works intermittently. My computer, draws 40-45 watt, a small tv 45, and the fridge (ALPICOOL 35) averages about 15 watt/hour in favorable weather. 2 100Watt pavels are enough for that energy draw.
Each 100 watt panel will produce 500-600 WH on a sunny day. And 2 are enough to keep 2 100AH LiFePO4 charged.
You may want to get a BLUETTI instead, there is a sale happenning on black Friday. I think you are not safe to wire your own system.

 

[bagabum]

Jim, get you a Honda EU1000i for your charging needs, it sips fuel, 6 to 8 hours run time on 0.5 gallons gas. They last and last, the chinese stuff is temporary. I have a Honda EU200i that I run with synthetic that is 16 years old, wouldn't even guess at the hours on it. Plan on your DC frig drawing 250 watts a day, they do not run continuous, a lot of them draw 45 watts in eco mode. I would not build the solar power station ( MPPT, converter, inverter, etc.) Note: (I have built many) But now, I would purchase a self-contained station, something like a Bluetti 200P or equivalent. They have the protection, display, breakers, inverter, converters, MPPT, etc all built into a clean, proven package. my2cents

 

[Jim D]

Jim, get you a Honda EU1000i for your charging needs, it sips fuel, 6 to 8 hours run time on 0.5 gallons gas. They last and last, the chinese stuff is temporary. I have a Honda EU200i that I run with synthetic that is 16 years old, wouldn't even guess at the hours on it. Plan on your DC frig drawing 250 watts a day, they do not run continuous, a lot of them draw 45 watts in eco mode. I would not build the solar power station ( MPPT, converter, inverter, etc.) Note: (I have built many) But now, I would purchase a self-contained station, something like a Bluetti 200P or equivalent. They have the protection, display, breakers, inverter, converters, MPPT, etc all built into a clean, proven package. my2cents

Hi bagabum, Yeah I've read that the Honda generators are the best on the market but I purchased a Westinghouse Flat Screen T.V. (made in the U.S.A.) and it has been OK. The Westinghouse generators may be made in china but what's not made in china except Westinghouse T.V.'s.

I want the Westinghouse generator because it puts out alot of energy plus it has a "Remote" control. I don't have to get out of the van and push a button or pull a cord. I just have to pick up the remote control to start the generator.

The Westinghouse is duel fuel which means it runs on Propane too and Propane is the fuel that will be inside my van. Gasoline will smell no matter what and I don't want that at all. Most van builds have Propane tanks in them so it appears to be reasonably safe.

Some Honda generators are indeed made in China. Some are still made in Japan. Some are made in the U.S.A. and France.

 

[sithigh]

I am afraid the exhaust from a stealth generator will find it's way into a stationary vehicle same as a parked car does. All CO2 detectors are as useful as Harbor Freight stuff. Even a chimney exhaust fan blowing straight up may have trouble in a windless site. I also think many DC power adaptors may cause interference to your various wireless recption devices. With luck, more charging power and a bunch of snap-on ferrite chokes you should be ok on a small full wave inverter and the regular AC devices. Don't just leave a big one on.

 

[LoupGarou]

A great base line to start with is 200watts of solar panels and 200ah of battery capacity.

 

[user 37446]

Wonder what happened to Jim and all his plans/needs.
It seemed a bit unrealistic, both his WH demands and the proposed charging "solutions", all in/on a van around Vegas.

You all gave him good ideas and pushed him to question/re-evaluate his thoughts, very good of you to do so. Hopefully it saved him some grief.

Having seen quite a few "I Quit" videos as of late, the recurring topics seemed to be that vanlife was too expensive, lonely or they didn't listen to advice from others who had already been there.

 

[Happy Camper]

Jim was in the early planning stages and a few years off from going mobile. He was trying to gather as much info in advance as he could.

Other than that I'm not sure how he's doing.

 

[user 37446]

Sure seems like quite a few forum members and YT van video producers are quitting, more so than what I have seen since about 2015.

When I finally joined in 2017 after ghosting for several years, this was a very active place, now not so much. One good thing, it is a lot less argumentative now.

Same with YT, although there are a lot of "wannabees" or "players" just in it for clicks, the older channels are dying off.

Normal progression I suppose. Many can't maintain the interest for years and years.