Oil Type/Brand??

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WheelEstate USA

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On the road for summer
I've always been a Valvoline oil fan.
I noticed they have a "blend" that contains synthetics.

Looking for some opinions on this technology.
I haven't stayed up on the results of synthetic uses, but sounds like they have some advantages.
 
I'm a Castrol person mysself...and I too have heard interesting things about synthetics.

hope someone chimes in with good knowledge on the subject.
 
There are so many oil myths of yesteryear which still get passed around as gospel it should be amusing to read some of the replies.

Conventional oils have closed the gap.

Main benefit of Synthetics is the ability to go longer between oil changes. They can also clean better, and require less Viscosity index improvers to achieve the wider viscosity index. VII's can shear down making the oil thinner, though they have gotten so much better in the last decade.

Also in an overheating situation the Synthetics will handle the extreme temps better before oxidizing and losing their ability to lubricate and cool.

0w-xx oils still require synthetic base stocks to meet the cold flow performance, and the 0w rating

Pennzoil's newest synthetic oil uses gas to liquid technology. The Old Ultra of last year had the Lowest Noack ( volatility) of any oil out there using that same procedure.

Bob is the Oil guy forums is a good place for Oil info.

I run Mobil1 0w-30 AFE with a M1-301 filter and do yearly oil changes. I used to run 0w-40 or 5w-40 or even 10w-40 but have no need for such thick oil as I have more than adequate oil pressure at all rpms. The 0w oils really help my engine run less crusty when warming up, even in San Diego where no car really requires a 0w-xx oil.

Oil pressure is not a more is always better situation, it is a as long as it is above the minimum, it is fine.

If more was always better then we would all be running 80w-90 gear oil.
 
I used to use Castrol in high RPM rice grinders without any issues, but on those I changed it at 2500 miles religiously.
I remember one van I switched to full synthetic and the oil pressure dropped to almost nothing. I was told that was normal, but it vexed me enough that I went back to standard Valvoline.
 
I use Mobile1 5W-20 so I don't have to change oil in the winter (I'm a wimp). Use non-detergent straight 40 wt oil in my old iron. -- Spiff
 
Castrol GTX then Mobil one. I was driving 50 miles to work and going 240 miles north on weekends and it seemed like I was under the car all the time so I went to Mobil one but still did the filter in between.
 
I called the auto parts store before changing my oil last week. He said 10w30 was the recommended oil for my van. Should I change to something else next time?
 
decodancer said:
I called the auto parts store before changing my oil last week. He said 10w30 was the recommended oil for my van. Should I change to something else next time?

The "recommended" oil is the manufacturer's recommendation for a new, unworn engine. As the miles pile up, and the wear on the internal parts of your engine increases, you may need to go a little thicker to compensate - say a 15w40, or even 20w50.

If you use 10w30, how many miles can you go before you need to add another quart of oil? If you can only get 1,000 miles or so to a quart, it's probably time to go a little thicker.

Regards
John
 
Whatever is at the auto parts store... but I don't like synthetic.
I do mostly highway driving, so its not unheard of for me to push 7500 miles on 20w 50, give or take 500 miles
 
Believe it or not, I have had my van over a year and have never added a single quart of oil. 1987 Ford 4.9 six with 68,000 which could be actual miles because car fax shows it unregistered for 7 years. I do a few short trips into town weekly and a 2 1/2 trip to NY every two months so it is not driven that often. This is only the second time I've had the oil changed so I'm a bad Mommy but I do check the levels every few weeks.
 
decodancer said:
Believe it or not, I have had my van over a year and have never added a single quart of oil. 1987 Ford 4.9 six with 68,000 which could be actual miles because car fax shows it unregistered for 7 years. I do a few short trips into town weekly and a 2 1/2 trip to NY every two months so it is not driven that often. This is only the second time I've had the oil changed so I'm a bad Mommy but I do check the levels every few weeks.

Sounds like you'll do fine on the recommended weight, then.

Regards
John
 
I think I'm going to go with the Valvoline blended for high mileage engines. This Dodge 5.9 has 106K on it, so it might give it a bit more life down the road.

Someone asked about running xxW-40W. In the hottest part of summer down in the desert I like a 20W-40W. Otherwise 10W-30W is good.

The old Chevy 454 calls for straight 30W and 40W for extreme (above 110) temps. Frankly, when it gets to 110 I'm long gone these days :D

We do most of our driving early and sometimes in the evening, before full dark since its cooler.
 
DELO the Ford 7.3 diesels love it in a pinch Rotella second choice. Diesels are very oil picky. 18 quartz per change. thats like 45 dollars in oil alone.
 
I'm a cheap bastard, but really do believe that a fresh transfusion of good oil and clean filter will extend the life of my rides.
I've never had an oil related issue and will do all I can to keep it that way.
 
since synthetic is two to three times as expensive as a conventional service, is it better to go syn. or regular twice as often? Must of us don't operate in conditions as harsh as to require the superior property's of synthetics anyhow.

I think that oil changing every 3000 is a little overkill. Shops recommend things like this because people always overshoot there intervals and refuse to EVER check their oil level!

I love it when a car comes in for service with less than 1000 miles on the sticker. Clearly great marketing work there! Brakes wore out, tires bald, coolant leaking, but gotta take care of my car and change that clean oil !
 
I'm running Rotella in my Dodge/Cummins diesel truck. I go 7000 miles between changes. It's not a problem in a diesel.

I've run Mobil One synthetic in my 2002 Camry ever since it was new and change it every 5000 miles or so. Again, no problems whatsoever.

I always changed oil every 3000 miles when I first started driving back in the 60's, but the modern engine alloys and lube formulations have greatly extended maintenance intervals since those days.
 
I've run 5K on an oil change, but it also matters how harsh conditions are and what kind driving I've been doing. If I've been working it hard, up and sown mountains and across hot flats, I have a tendency to treat it to some fresh oil sooner.
Spells of long, hot dusty seasons will find me changing more often.
I've been known to pop on a new oil filter and top up at half way to 5K.

Don't bother me a bit if folks think its excessive, but I like my oil lookin' bright and fresh...I think it likes it :)

But seriously, I've lived in the southwest for years and filters of any type, air, fuel...all of them take a beating here quicker than many other places.

I ran sand rails some years back, when I was younger and wilder, and filters/fluids were constants.
All the fluids are vented (somewhere) and take on contaminates. The desert dust is quite rude and fluids become liquid sandpaper.
15K on any type of filter in the desert southwest doesn't click in my mind.
 
I've had success with synthetic, always have a clean and smooth running engine. I've also been using some stuff called tufoil....

http://www.amazon.com/Tufoil-Engine...ie=UTF8&qid=1401584523&sr=8-2&keywords=tufoil

They claim that it will improve fuel mileage among other things. For my application this claim has proved true. I'm getting better mileage to the best of my knowledge (no scientific testing here) and also the engine seems to rev smoother. I also use Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. Both products do very well with customer reviews but always seemed to get dumped on at Bobistheoilguy.com. So I guess each to his own, but I really like the stuff....
 
Any national brand oil will have all the additives your maintained engine will need. The API SF multi grade oils are excellent choices. Your factory maintenance scheduled will require early oil changes if short trips, cold engine miles, lots of idling and many other reasons. Most fleet operations use time to schedule oil changes. monthly or quarterly, or even seasonally. The point is if you want your engine to last change the oil. Use a "Brand" oil and quality filters. Check the fluid levels often, not just when you hear the lifters rattle. My 87 dodge 318 requires every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whatever comes first.
 
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