New to solar Kill-A-Watt #'s

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abnorm

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I followed ya'lls suggestion to use a killawatt meter.................

So for the first test of the empty cold 120v refrigerator for 24 hrs I used .75 kw.........What does this mean to me........HELP ! doug
 
0.75kw = 750 watts... since volts x amps = watts, divide 750 by 110v = about 6.8 amps.

Or since you'll be using a 12v system, 750/12 = 62.5 amps.

But if you ran that 110 fridge off an inverter, you'd have to add at least +20% for inefficiency....thus the attraction of 12v fridges.

And while I don't doubt the meter, you numbers are on the low side, probably indicating a low ambient temp around the fridge, which likely wouldn't be indicative of real-world mobile environments...
 
I have no idea of the number but thought that having the fridge full of food would cause it to cycle on less.
 
Thanks Brad.......I couldn't see the 12 v figures in myhead.....!!!!!

It's a 9.2 cuft smaller apartment size 2-door that was rated about 500+ watts

I've got the roof room for a 400w Renogy setup..........MAYBE group 24 (size) 4x12 volt AGM batteries ?????
 
9.2 cf refer is a fair size refer are you putting this in a van or an RV? if you went with a 12v refer you could cut your solar and battery bank in half, in the end paying for your 12v refer. highdesertranger
 
Yes HDR it's large for the van.........but it's a choice....I don't mind having lots-O-power available.......This is my last vehicle...my last house........downsizing from an Orlando Florida S&B....and seeing the country......I'm old...just me and the two cats.....THANKS

I'll campground some but want the opportunity to "boondock".......I have some construction skills so I carry a fair amount of tools.............I lament the fact I won't be bringing my tablesaw and dedicated mortise machine........I'd need Brad's truck!!

doug
 
It's at least double, maybe triple what a 12 volt compressor fridge would use and 200 watts will run one of those no problem. So with 400 watts you are in the ballpark of having enough solar, but just barely. I don't think you want group 24 batteries though, I'd want 4 golf cart batteries. You can get them in AGM, but they are expensive.
 
I agree that a 12v fridge would use less power but even the largest is tiny compared to what is being used. Some of the mid sized fridges don't use that much more power than the compacts do. Still that's a lot of power and you will need a back up to the solar or you will risk damaging your batteries.
 
What was the ambient temperature in which the fridge ran when it consumed  the equivalent of ~62.5AH in 24 hours? 

 70F?

If so, The fridge will use nearly twice as much in 80F ambients


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Danby-24...ss-Look-Counter-Depth-DFF092C1BSLDB/205471343

Is this the fridge? ^^

That fridge claims 374KWH per year, which is more than 1KW per day and significantly higher than your kill a watt reading.

Where is the condenser on the fridge?  The part which releases heat to atmosphere.  Some of these models put it in the walls or skin and disallowing more insulation in that area.

It could require a 1200 watt inverter to handle the start up surge of the compressor motor despite drawing less than a 100 watts when running.

It can be done, I'd want at least 450 AH of battery capacity and a minimum of 500 to 550 watts of solar to power it, in addition to a well wired alternator and a plug in charging source when grid power is available.  If you drive in the morning each day then perhaps you can get away with less.

But if that fridge is baking in a 90+ degree van it will consume a lot of that solar power and limiting that which the batteries require to get near fully charged.


If it is a frost free fridge, these use a heating element for that purpose.

What are your other electrical loads?  My laptop consumes more battery power than my fridge on average.

There are 12vDC fridges approaching in the 8 to 9 cubic foot range

http://www.vfamerica.com/eng/dp2600iac-transp-technical-data.html

http://www.novakool.com/products/two_doors/rfu6200_6800_8000_9000.htm

http://www.thetford.com/product/de-0061ev-0061/
 
Everything is a trade off.With a larger refrigerator you will need more power.Our 18 ft energy star uses 120 ah dc per day on average.We like this size and accepted that we would need more solar.I just recently bought a new 50 in energy star tv and haven't checked the power usage yet.With the clothes washer,dish washer,other tv,ceiling fans,inside and outside lights,etc. we are probably using 5-6 hundred ah dc per day, some days.This is ok with us since we do like our comforts.
 
Nothing wrong with having comforts if you can. Our trailer is a pig at 200 or so Ah's a day but I've made sure it has a big troth to feed from. Even so I'll have a generator back up so I don't get behind on that big bank. I want to add a fridge but am not sure of the size I'll need yet.
 
Thanks SternWake for the detailed message............the current unit is an Igloo (453 watts)

So following your links.......... I sure like a 7' Norcold DE-0061.....looks like they're available in stock within 50 miles

I still Need (WANT) an inverter to run the "electronic" stuff...........

400 Renogy panels

and I expect to have a "Honda" type gen/inv backup

So Golf cart batteries....................?
 
6v golf cart batteries are true deep cycle batteries. they are the best bang for the buck. wire in series for 12v. highdesertranger
 
453 watts?


That must be the compressor motor surge rating as that is a ~37 amp load at 12.2vDC.

My first fridge was a Norcold de 0040 which is just 2.7 cubic feet, and came with a sawafuji swing compressor.  This compressor was very loud and vibrated my whole van.  i went to extraordinary lengths to isolate if from the insulated cabinet in which it resided, for big improvements, but sometimes it would still cause some harmonics to develop and would wake me up at night.  The Stainless steel door skin I added, had a bunch of knuckle marks in it.

Some Sawafuji compressors appear to be relatively quiet, others not so much. Luck of the draw. Mine lasted 5 years before becoming low on refrigerant, and refilling would have cost as much as a new fridge.  Likely my modifications to reduce noise and vibration, and my fists slamming the door in frustration at the noise, contributed to refrigerant loss.

By the end my Norcold fridge was basically suspended in foam rubber within the cabinet, and I had also isolated the compressor from fridge body in an attempt to quieten it down and reduce vibration, which worked well, but was still not enough.  I was able to grab the door and move the fridge 1/4 inch in any direction, and it would rebound to the middle after release, if that gives you a sense of how far I went to reduce its noise/ vibration.

I saw some newer Norcolds have switched to the Danfoss BD35f compressor, i am not sure if the de0061 is such a model.

The Danfoss is 1/3 the noise and more efficient in my experience, and allows for the easy addition of more fans to evacuate the heat from the compressor/condenser.  I would very much recommend a Danfoss based refrigerator vs a Sawafuji powered refer based on my personal experience.

My Vitrifrigo c51is fridge with the Danfoss/secop bd35f compressor has no added vibration damping built into the install.  I do have extra insulation customized for it, but the thing does not require suspension in foam rubber to reduce noise and vibration 

The other day, I was at my neighbors, sitting on a chair on a Deck I very much overbuilt for them using 2x10 instead of 2x6, and on it, next to the wall, resided a Magic Chef dorm fridge of about 4 to 5 cubic foot size.  When the compressor would cycle on, I could feel the vibrations through the chair I was sitting on.  When i mentioned it, it brought up a laugh as there was a conversation previous to my arrival about possible sexual thrills caused by the fridge compressor, and jokes about leaving the door open. 

When I first installed my NorCold, and had its flanges screwed to my cabinet I built for it. I could hear the fridge running from several feet away from the Van, and could touch the Van's body and feel it vibrating.

Whatever fridge you install, extra insulation should be considered, and proper ventilation of the compressor/condenser is absolutely paramount.  I also recommend insulating the van wall behind the fridge so when the sun bakes on it it does not make it that much harder for the condenser to transfer the heat extracted from box interior,  to atmosphere.

The biggest efficiency gains are from more insulation, the second is ensuring the condenser is properly ventilated.  The proper ventilation is much easier to engineer than trying to just add more charging sources and battery capacity to not have to worry about efficiency.
 
SternWake, No denying there is a hum and in the right location, sitting on the right material, connected to other stuff, vibration can be transmitted.

I had no problem with vibration noise transmitting in my class b. I believe it was due to sitting on shag carpet with padding underneath. In my Prius I have not had vibration but a noticeable hum. It doesn't bother me and I'm used to it. I can't say the same for some places I've parked with grade crossings that require the train to announce their approach. Some I know who live near such crossings don't hear the train after awhile.

Foam under the feet greatly reduces the transmission of the vibration.

Have you performed current draw / duty cycle analysis for your Vitrifrigo c51is to compare efficiencies between the sawafuji and Danforth/Secon compressors?

I would like to compare actual results.

Brent




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
My data on the Norcold is lacking.
  The VF's design also allowed me to insulate and ventilate it better than the Norcold. So, the side by side comparison is not really fair to the Norcold.

 I believe if all variables were strictly controlled and equal in a test, the sawafuji and danfoss compressor would be within 1 percent of each other in overall battery consumption to keep the same box the same temperature in the same usge

The Norcold de 0040 ( upright front loader) always drew 2.7 amps.  Seemed to cycle on for about 3.5 to 5 minutes, then off for 12 to 20.  I had a low draw 40MM fan inside behind coldplate freezer portion blowing downwards 24/7


The Vitrifrigo c51is originally came with a 270 ohm resistor to run at 2500 rpm.  It drew 3.2 amps and  4 to 5 minutes later it would be drawing 2.7 amps before cycling off for 15 to 22.  I have another 40Mm interior fan blowing into freezer 24/7.

Without this resistor, for  2000 rpm, it starts at 2.7 amps and tapers to 2.2 amps, and  4.5 to 5.5 minutes later, it would cycle off for 15 to 22.  

The Norcold came with an additional 80mm fan(24v), which would only come on automatically if it got to ~110F.  It would blow upwards across compressor and the Passive condenser, which formed a corner of the fridge but only if it got to 110F.   I relocated this 80mm fan  ran it 24/7 on 12vDC (0.04a) and had installed it farther below and  blew cool air from below upwards through condenser, and out a vent in front, or behind fridge  through a louvered vent to vehicle exterior.  I replaced the automatic 110 degree fan with 2 faster louder 60M fans, and I only heard them once.  It too was well ventilated.

But,

The VF came with a 120MM fan mounted to a more compact finned condenser.  I modified ventilation so condenser has no ability to bake in air it itself had heated, and used a lower amp draw, quieter fan with a higher static pressure rating, to pull cool filtered air from below and push it once through condenser, across compressor and controller, and out of the same louvered vent, or into an adjacent cabinet partition which now has an 80MM exhaust fan.

The VF, since it did not require floating inside a rubber cocoon to dampen vibrations, got tighter fitting foamboard insulation on cabinet and fridge cabinet for overall better insulation.

Often the Norcold's evaporator( cold plate)  would not be able to keep ice frozen, or would defrost partially if I added a half gallon of warm tomato juice and the marginal drip tray would have the bottom of the fridge soaked.

I generally keep the VF colder, at about 33F where I kept the Norcold at 39F.  This Danfoss BD35f at 3500rpm, can power a ~6 cubic foot fridge and freezer, so it is just cruising along at 2000 rpm at 1.8 cubic feet.

My impressions when the VF were new, and when memories of Norcold performance were fresh, was that the Danfoss ran slightly longer, than the sawafuji, but remained off for longer before cycling back on.

I'll estimate my VF uses about 8 to 14% less juice than my Norcold did, to keep ~6 degree colder average internal temperatures.  I really had to crank up the Tstat on the Norcold to get it to 33F, where the VF on ~2.2 of 7 just gets to 33 f or so and it holds pretty steady, and I can start freezing things at settings of 3.5 or higher.

My Vf's door insulation could certainly be improved.  The Norcold's door was better insulated, but eventually it warped and the bottom seal became problematic.

NO doubt a chest style unit would be easier to isolate from vehicle and reduce noise, but the front loaders need to be attached to the cabinet somehow, and I had my Norcold floating in foam rubber prison with every hard point eliminated. Much improvement, but not good enough.  Often something else like a fork in my sink or a  tube of lip balm in my junk drawer would amplify the noises.  While I did get used to it and it did not always wake me up, if I was on that delicate threshold of falling  sleep and it cycled on, I would get irritated, especially If I had to go hunt for the object which decided to resonate in frequency with the sawafuji swing  compressor.

I can put my inline wattmeter on My VF, but it does not register the interior 40MM 0.03 amp 24/7 fan or the estimated 0.01 to 0.02 amp draw of the electronics that are waiting for the thermostat' s signal to turn on.
 
SW,
Thanks for the comprehensive comparison. Certainly there are a lot of variability to consider, but for people looking to use solar either offer considerable opportunity over use of conventional fridges and ice chests. With proper condenser ventilation and supplemental insulation they operate well higher ambient temperature environments.

Now that I have the measuring equipment I hope to look at performance in higher heat environments during my 2017 travels. In my Prius I lost the advantage of leaving the fridge on the floor of the class b where the temperature was always cooler than the ceiling. There is very little separation of temperature in the parked car.
Brent


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Oberneldon said:
 In my Prius I lost the advantage of leaving the fridge on the floor of the class b where the temperature was always cooler than the ceiling.  There is very little separation of temperature in the parked car.
Brent


That is an often overlooked factor, the heat within the vehicle.  It affects not only the box temps from an insulation point of view, the hotter temperatures make it harder for the condenser to release this heat removed from the box to the atmosphere.

My van's ventilation has improved enough that I can keep the interior much cooler than in 2007 when I got the Norcold,  Yes I expend electricity to run the fans, but then the fridge runs less often and for less time making up for that consumption, and then some.

When My VF was new, i was running it outside my cabinet during the day, while I modified cabinet to accept it as it is a smidge taller than the Norcold was.  When I did the fan swap, replacing the 120mm sleeve bearing 72cfm 0.12amp fan mounted to pull air through condenser, with a Noctua NF-f12 (53cfm, 0.05amp) pushing air through condenser, the duty cycle dropped by an average 40 seconds, Instantly.

This seemed too extreme, to placebo like, and I thought perhaps The ambient temps had fallen, or some other factor was contributing to the lessened duty cycle, But six hours later I timed another compressor on and off cycle and it ran for 45 seconds less than before the fan Modification.  And there was 0.07 amps less draw with the lesser amp draw fan, and there was much less noise with a quieter fan.

Seeing this improvement and deciding that it was not just placebo like expectation driven, I went a step further, making the cooling unit tunnel so that the fan could only suck cool air from the floor below the fridge, and push it once through condenser across compressor and controller, and out the louvered vent or into next cabinet compartment.  Later on I added the air filter after dust build up became a concern.

I did not bother keeping duty cycle records past this point once I got it tucked tightly into cabinet.  The fridge was so much quieter and seemingly more powerful and efficient than the Norcold I was just satisfied and life went on.

Really with door openings, their duration, changing ambient temperatures, warm foods placed within, how much any fridge is going to draw will vary quite widely. Manufacturer specs as to consumption over an hour or consumption when compressor is running vary so widely and are almost entirely meaningless compared to real world use with the tools to measure that consumption.

 With the new Norcold in 2007, when running it in a 90 degree garage, I was afraid 130 watts of solar could not keep up with the fridge load, and I made the cabinet big enough to accommodate more insulation and allow proper ventilation over condenser, and when installed and having a battery monitor in place, I found that 130 watts was more than enough for the fridge, but not so for my other increasing electrical loads and in 2011 or so I added 68 more watts.

Really, my fridge concerns now are just its defrosting every so often.  The Norcold would kind of self defrost if I put something warm into it, but the VF cold plate never does this unless I turn the thermostat to minimum.

I could improve the insulation in, on, and around  the door for more improvements, but this is pretty low on the to do list.  I'm not fighting to conserve each AH at this point. But on initial install I could not just slap it in the cabinet either.  I wanted the insulation to be tight, and the ventilation optimized, and the compact cooling unit with forced air through condenser seemed such a better design than the Norcold's passive condenser. 

The lower noise, higher cooling ability, higher efficiency, and ability  for compressor speed adjustments and the ability for the controller to power more fans gives me the priceless warm and fuzzies.

Pre 2007 I used to spend a few cumulative months a year in Baja.  Id get to my spot and park for 3 weeks.  I'd have ice for 5 days.  Nearest town was a 45 minute drive.  I dreampt of being able to freeze fish I caught, a cold drink, all sorts of luxuries that a fridge allows.


In 2007 when i was researching fridges and decided against absorption, I knew I needed solar too.  When I got the solar and the fridge installed, van dwelling just became so much better, and with an electrical surplus most of the time, the doors were opened wider.

Not having to empty a stinky cooler and go buy block ice every 5 days..... priceless.

The sticker shock of a 12v compresor fridge is real, But it pays for itself with time, and the convenience is priceless.
 

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