New Battery location

[BradKW]

I was pretty happy with my plan to turn the monster L16 batteries into a coffee table, despite some valid concerns about placing over 500 lbs behind rear axle. Actually, I had no concerns about this until I posted and people replied that it is a concern. I didn't like you much for this, I was happier with ignorance is bliss  

I was going to do it anyway because there wasn't another viable location, but decided I'd start this weekend re-thinking it and seeing if that was true. Turns out it wasn't, and I came up with a much better location, albeit more work. Found room in front of galley for a below floor installation that will have an access hatch in floor:

[img=400x400]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/...ads/IMG_20160903_144219_zpsdp5kzew9.jpg[/img]

Using the steel bumpers I demo'd out of interior and saved, I'm using 3/4" All Thread, inside some metal conduit that serves as a spacer:

[img=400x400]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/...ads/IMG_20160903_184541_zpskgryc8fa.jpg[/img]

[img=400x400]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/...ads/IMG_20160903_184640_zpsp2hzu3iy.jpg[/img]

[img=400x400]http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/...ads/IMG_20160903_185723_zpsi6nzngsy.jpg[/img] 

Posting now and not later in build thread because I'd like opinions on how to keep those nuts from ever loosening up. I've seen ThreadLock fail too many times on large things, I've seen Superglue fail because it's very brittle. When building decks I've used a chisel to notch thread just behind bolt...I guess that works, but honestly it's just something I do because I must've learned it somewhere.

I'd like something that will require an impact wrench to break it free...

 

[moorejames]

Locktite or jbweld would probably have something that would work. Not responsible for your frustration if you ever try to undo either

 

[Trebor English]

Jam nuts.
Thread lockers can usually be softened with heat if you have trouble unscrewing.

 

[highdesertranger]

jam nuts or C-lock nuts. if you want it permanent tack weld them. I prefer C-locks. highdesertranger

 

[BradKW]

I'm googling C-lock nuts and only coming up with "grade C locking nuts", but that seem to refer to a finish or steel type. I do see in some descriptions that they have deformed threads...is this what you mean?

 

[Mobilesport]

I would think a steel plate welded to where them beveled edges are on the steel bumpers would be much stronger to prevent side to side flex opposed to that threaded bar , but then again maybe I'm missing something because I don't know why you would want them bolts to be removable. 
I went thru something similar and ended up building a battery box to recess under the floor with access hatch from interior. 
I didn't have a welder so I assembled it with self tapping screws and then dropped it off to a welder where all he had to do is put a few welds on on real quick. 
I brought the box home and dropped it in simular the way a sink would drop in , spray foamed around the edges and then about 15 minutes later screwed the box down to the floor using angle iron and self tapping screws.
I believe Gotsmart did something similar and has pictures posted on this site.
Here's my pictures of my orange battery box

 

[highdesertranger]

here is what I was talking about, https://www.lawsonproducts.com/lawson/Lock-Nut-Grade-C/80931.lp . they are much stronger than your common Nylock nut and stay put. in fact they lock so well that it is best to have power tools for installation and removal. you don't need to buy from those guys I just used them as an example. highdesertranger

 

[BradKW]

I would think a steel plate welded to where them beveled edges are on the steel bumpers would be much stronger to prevent side to side flex opposed to that threaded bar , but then again maybe I'm missing something because I don't know why you would want them bolts to be removable. 

Just making it up as I go along, walking through warehouse and yard looking for free stuff that might work. Having some boxes welded up would be great, but given the dimensions of 34" x 12" x 17", the weight of 500 lbs, and the floor joist that divides it in two, getting something made wouldn't be cheap or quick. If this doesn't work out, that'll certainly be the next move.

 

[GotSmart]

Just making it up as I go along, walking through warehouse and yard looking for free stuff that might work. Having some boxes welded up would be great, but given the dimensions of 34" x 12" x 17", the weight of 500 lbs, and the floor joist that divides it in two, getting something made wouldn't be cheap or quick. If this doesn't work out, that'll certainly be the next move.

My box cost me $100.  

You could use a crown nut, and drill the rod where you want the nut to stay.  Old School, but it works and is cheap. 

 

[LeeRevell]

My box cost me $100.  

You could use a crown nut, and drill the rod where you want the nut to stay.  Old School, but it works and is cheap. 

Called a "castleated nut" in the aviation industry, for use with safety wire, or in other industry using a cotterpin. Any good fastener vendor will have them.

 

[GotSmart]

That might cost you about $6.  For nuts and cotter pins.

 

[Mobilesport]

K

Just making it up as I go along, walking through warehouse and yard looking for free stuff that might work. Having some boxes welded up would be great, but given the dimensions of 34" x 12" x 17", the weight of 500 lbs, and the floor joist that divides it in two, getting something made wouldn't be cheap or quick. If this doesn't work out, that'll certainly be the next move.

Thers a guy over on the Astosafari forum that bought a premade tool box , modified it to his likings and dropped it in , just a thought. .
Also if you decide you want to get rid of that joist ,,,,

 

[BradKW]

Looking at it fresh this morning, I'm going to step back and get a price on having boxes made. After dumping a lot last week on fridge and batteries, I think I'm trying to be frugal in the wrong place... suspending 500lbs of battery below the chassis may not be the best place for random yard parts to come together...

 

[jimindenver]

Suspended with the forces that come into play in a moving vehicle that may be taking some rougher roads, I'd want one serious solution.

 

[BradKW]

Thinking 1/4" plate hanging by a 3" flange...

 

[jimindenver]

See what the difference for upping it to 3/8's and 6 inch flange. I would also suggest bracing underneath to minimize any sway. Should you have to lock them up some day or hit something and those batteries are going to do their best to see what's going on up front.

 

[Gary68]

e450? whats thats 2-21/2 ton? if so 500lbs is nothing,you could load it full of bricks and be o.k.

 

[jimindenver]

It's not what the truck can handle Gary. he wants to hang the batteries below the floor and is designing the box to do it.

 

[SternWake]

Plan on some ventilation space between the batteries too. High amp charging and discharging will heat them up.

Also my underbody battery is bathed in engine heat when moving.

My battery temperature data has been enlightening, and dismaying.

My agm is lower resistance and should heat less than flooded in high amp charging and discharging.

Such a mass of 4 L 16's could really retain the undesirable heat. And hot sulfuric acid eats lead plates much faster.

Whatever lid you use should be immune to sulfuric acid mist, and perhaps non conductive incase hold downs fail and batteries bounce.

 

[GotSmart]

I found an old tractor tire tube, and carved a box liner out of that

Open air would be best in your case.