Need translation from "mechanic" to "non-mechanic" language

MargaretA · May 17, 2011

I just had an inspection done on a van I was interested in purchasing. Here's the complete problem list from the "mechanicals" page, with my comments/questions in brackets (so you'll know what I already know about this stuff): Cat con rattles      [catalytic converter, yes?] Rear main seal dripping oil.      [what is this?] Engine oil was dirty and low. Transmission fluid was black but did not smell burnt.      [not changed enough? or a problem with the tranny?]      Coolant was very low.      [it's leaking somewhere. Another page on the report says source of coolant leak should be found.] Muffler has a hole in it.      [I was aware of this from the noise during the test drive. Interestingly, it just passed emissions.] Shocks are completely worn out.      [another page says they're probably original. How often are shocks supposed to get changed? I didn't notice any issues during the test drive, but that could just be my ignorance.] The frt cv boots are cracked. They have not split yet but will do so shortly.      [what are these?] Rear pinion seal has been leaking for a long time.      [what is this?] T-case leaks oil.      [transfer case, yes? This is an on-demand 4WD minivan.] Drivers Front Tire - worn on out side edges. Passenger Front Tire - worn Could someone please translate this into plain English? Just for my own knowledge. Since I can't work on my own vehicles I'm guessing this wouldn't be a wise purchase choice for me <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> but I think the information would be helpful. I'm going to do some research on this stuff but thought I might as well ask here too. Thanks in advance for your help. Meg (who is beginning to get very discouraged about all of this. This is the 4th inspection I've had done and they've all been bad.)

Guest · May 17, 2011

Hi Meg, I'll give this a stab, Cat con rattles      [catalytic converter, yes?] "Yes, it may be ok for now but may be needing replacement down the road" Rear main seal dripping oil.      [what is this?] "This is the rear main seal on your engine crankshaft, if leaking badly which it sounds like it may be, needs changing..." Engine oil was dirty and low. "needs changing along with filter...good indication that maintenance was poor" Transmission fluid was black but did not smell burnt.      [not changed enough? or a problem with the tranny?] " not changed enough for sure and may be ok with a good flush and filter change and testing....again a sign of poor maintenance"     Coolant was very low.      [it's leaking somewhere. Another page on the report says source of coolant leak should be found.] This is puzzling and needs to be found before a commitment to buy...if it is a hose or exterior engine leak it may be an easy fix but may be a leaking water pump or something and that costs more" Muffler has a hole in it.      [I was aware of this from the noise during the test drive. Interestingly, it just passed emissions.] "possibly can be patched, depends on condition of the muffler and the rest of the system, may need new muffler" Shocks are completely worn out.      [another page says they're probably original. How often are shocks supposed to get changed? I didn't notice any issues during the test drive, but that could just be my ignorance.] "no definite time for changing shocks, just when needed, you will have to replace" The frt cv boots are cracked. They have not split yet but will do so shortly.      [what are these?] " these are on the constant velocity joints on your front stub axles, probably will be ok for a while and need replacing soon", once cracked they will allow road grit and dirt and water in and degrade your cv joints" Rear pinion seal has been leaking for a long time.      [what is this?] " this is the front seal on the rear differential where the drive shaft enters it, usually has a universal joint just in front of it, depends on leak quantity but seal should be replaced and the gear oil changed and filled to proper level" T-case leaks oil.      [transfer case, yes? This is an on-demand 4WD minivan.] "yes, transfer case and leaking seals need fixing" Drivers Front Tire - worn on out side edges. "obviously needs new tires at least the front but also the front end is at least lout of alignment and needs to be corrected." Passenger Front Tire - worn "same as above" So Meg, while all these things could and need to be repaired it may be kind of spendy....the most expensive being the time spent on replacing the rear main seal and the other drive train seals...this is all normal wear as a vehicle ages but it is best done as noticed and then it never becomes overwhelming expense-wise. I think the most concerning thing is the poor maintenance. Personally I would hold for a vehicle that has been well maintained and you can tell that by appearances as well as if the owner keeps records...I am never afraid of a high mileage vehicle if I can see that it has been kept up and the owner has receipts showing what work has been done...hope this helps... Bri

4x4tour · May 18, 2011

Meg, This one sounds like a tar-baby, and an unloved tired one at that... Are you having these inspections at the same place?  Next time, have them classify the leaks, i.e. 1.  Area lightly saturated =  No biggy 2.  Slow Seepage, with NO drips = No biggy 3.  Any drips = Biggy... Broken pieces in the Cat are honeycomb type pieces that will eventually clog the Cat Outlet and over-heat the engine.  This could account for an over-heating issue, accounting for the low anti-freeze, dark trans fluid etc...   Ive never seen black trans fluid without it being burnt, but maybe Im missing something. You want trans fluid to be clear light cranberry juice look to it. Autopart stores now sell 2-piece CV boots, so they can be installed without removing the CV axles.  I did it for a neigbor, and it took me about an hour per side  (both inner and outer cv boots on both front axles).  They use a vulcanizing glue and metal zip straps (included) for install). Any capable mechanic should charge no more than an hour per side.  And if they say it's not a good repair, show them my way... Im a certified GM mechanic and have seen my neighbor's honda run perfect for 4 years since... As for the tires, it may be a product of the shocks failing to do their job, balance magnets missing, overinflation, cheap quality, bad tie-rod ends, wheel hub/bearings etc... hard to call without inspecting it myself. Low coolant can be many factors, i.e. head gasket leak, evaporative use over a long period / boiling overflow incident.  Did it have a coolant overflow bottle? If not, low coolant is a side-effect of not having an overflow tank.    I realize (hope) you pass on this one, but retain this information for the next one.  An informed buyer is a dangerous customer <IMG src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/nono.gif" align=absMiddle border=0>

MargaretA · May 18, 2011

Thank you all for your replies; they were all really helpful. To answer some of your comments: - I was interested in a van with 4WD (or AWD) because I don't want to be limited to places where there isn't any snow or ice; for one thing, my family lives in PA and with my mom in a nursing home I may need to make trips back there at any season. (And actually - I like cold weather a lot more than hot weather. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/crazy.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> ) The other thing is, I wanted something that would tow a small trailer and FWD vans don't have very high tow ratings; I also had one mechanic recommend against using one of these to tow. This van is an Aerostar, which has RWD and a tow rating almost as high as an Astro's. - This vehicle was at a dealer so I had a mobile inspection done. I'm wondering about buying from dealers, though, because they won't have the maintenance records (will they?). I haven't had a chance to do the research I mentioned last night so I'll postpone a lot of my other questions. There are a couple of things I'd like to ask here, though: - Does anyone know of anyplace online where I could plug in some of this stuff and get general ("ballpark") estimates of repair costs? The inspection didn't provide any of those. I could call around but I'm not sure anyone would have the time to price all those things. - This inspection report didn't really say anything about the condition of the engine or transmission. Maybe these can't be done with a mobile inspection? (I was thinking of a compression check for the engine; I can't think of any way to check the transmission without a shop except for a test drive.) Again, thank you for your answers. And to confirm - I won't be buying this one. Meg P.S. What is a "tar baby"?

MargaretA · May 18, 2011

Addendum (I should have looked before asking) - I found a site that will give you repair estimates based on the vehicle and your location. I thought I'd pass it along in case anyone else needs something like this. It's called <a target="_blank" href="http://www.automd.com/repaircost/">AutoMD</a>. Their calculator will price only 5 repairs at a time but I suppose you could go back and do another query if you had more than that. I just plugged in the following: - Replace catalytic converter - Replace rear main seal - Change engine oil - Change transmission fluid - Replace muffler If I'd known it was limited to five I would have put in some of the stuff further down on the list instead of the oil and trans fluid changes, but it didn't say that until I tried to plug in #6. Oh well. Just for the above it calculated: $157.01 for DIY (parts only) $1,089.10 for shop cost ($253.10 for parts, $836 for labor at $76/hr) It's interesting to me that the parts cost for the shop work is more than 60% higher than for the DIY. As for the labor - well, all I can say is - I think I picked the wrong line of work all those years ago... Meg

VanFan · May 18, 2011

Meg, You are a quick learner, and clearly ready for more!  I understand it's expensive and discouraging, but these inspections have already saved you lots of cash and headaches.  Frankly, I wish I had taken a bit more time and had a third-party inspection before I bought my van, but I wouldn't give it back! The shop estimate you shared actually seems quite low to me.  One thing I have discovered is that there can be a huge range.  The lesson for me has been to have repairs done when and where I have the luxury of shopping for parts and/or choosing a shop.  That means becoming more aware of what's happening with my vehicle(s).  This is where the knowledge you are gaining can become very valuable. Some examples:  Rear main seal replacement for '96 Chevy Express 1500 was quoted as "two days and $1,200" at the dealership.  Another area shop quoted $850.  A reputable shop said they would do it for $450, and replace the rear differential seal at the same time at no additional charge. It could be my imagination, but I think my fuel pump is getting a little bit noisy.  I would expect to pay between $800 and $1,000 plus towing if it goes out on the road (not to mention the OMG factor!).  Again, a local shop will replace it for $450, or $210 if I provide the pump.  A Bosch pump can be had for about $175, shipped. It cost $85 and a night without the van for the dealership to pressure check a leaking cooling system.  They determined a hose was loose.  They were wrong.  I got a pressure checker on loan from Autozone and identified three leaks, two of which were easy to fix.  I'm letting the third one go for the time being.  Using the same tool, I was able to determine that there is no apparent exchange of pressure between the cooling system and the heads.  No cost, and much more useful information. Keep looking, don't work too hard at it, and have fun.  And remember:  a torque wrench is a girl's best friend!  LOL. Vickie

MargaretA · May 18, 2011

Well, I was typing something and now it's gone. So I guess I'll start over. ddwinters, I was thinking of getting a small fiberglass travel trailer, like a used Scamp or Casita, to full-time in. I know I won't fit in a van - at least not for long - and these are lighter so they'd help with fuel efficiency. I have done some research about what's needed for towing and asked some questions on the fiberglass RV forum. The general opinion there was that AWD would probably be fine. But I've gotten some differing opinions on FWD, which is why I haven't really looked at any vehicles that have it - even though it's what I'm used to and have always really liked. About overdrive - the last 2 cars I owned, for about the last 20 years, were both manuals. They both had a 5th gear, which I'm thinking is overdrive, but I rarely used it driving mostly in the city (or in the mountains; it's no good on hills either). But I don't know how overdrive works in an automatic. They come with more than one drive gear but I never used anything but the top one because that's what I was taught. To avoid overdrive would I just have to not use that top gear (ie "D2") or would I have to shift? That could be a pain with the shift lever on the steering column. Vickie, I'm not surprised at the difference you quoted between the dealer prices and the other shop prices; I've always heard dealers were more expensive, which is why I've never used them. Compared with the estimates I got - maybe the difference is the vehicle. This was a Ford Aerostar minivan, which I'm sure is smaller than your full-size Chevy 1500 and probably has a smaller engine (it has a 4.0L V6). You make a good point about not waiting until something breaks down and you have to get it fixed; that's when you're at the mercy of whatever shop you happen to be near at the time (like the owner of the box van I looked at a couple of weeks ago). The hard part is knowing when problems are starting. I've never been any good with cars, and honestly, these inspections just seem to be proving to me that nothing has changed - I still can't tell a good vehicle from a bad one. And with such a low budget I'm not sure I could find a good one even if I could tell the difference. Yes, it is discouraging - to the point where I may just rethink this whole thing. It isn't fun anymore and I'm really tired of looking. Meg

4x4tour · May 19, 2011

Now THIS would be easy to tow with ANYTHING, and has good sleeping room.  I dont know what you drive now, but a little paint, some gadgets, and you have a 5k trailer.  These are popular in Cali. Google a Tear-drop trailer forum. The older folks LOVE these things... <A href="http://redding.craigslist.org/pts/2326186072.html" target=_blank target=_blank>http://redding.craigslist.org/pts/2326186072.html</A> Also, found a van whose owner guarantee's a good running drivetrain, and it already has a bed.  Id go look at it with you, if you decided to look at it. <A href="http://redding.craigslist.org/cto/2348006154.html" target=_blank target=_blank>http://redding.craigslist.org/cto/2348006154.html</A> Or, even this light type of trailer: <A href="http://redding.craigslist.org/rvs/2381438789.html" target=_blank target=_blank>http://redding.craigslist.org/rvs/2381438789.html</A> I found these in seconds of searching in my area.  You have many options, dont get discouraged.  But then again, Ive been slacking on my own project, from posting info in various sites.. lol

Seraphim · May 19, 2011

It's interesting to me that the parts cost for the shop work is more than 60% higher than for the DIY.

Shops buy parts at wholesale and charge the customer retail. Expect labor in the US to be about $100 per hour. Friend of mine owns a shop and I buy parts on his account: I generally save 30% to 40% on parts from what the store would sell to me as a walk-in customer. About 20% or more on consumables.  The mark-up on parts is part of the shop's profit: shops have a high operational cost. On any older vehicle as neglected as the one ou mentioned, also assume you'll be replacing all the rubber components shortly: from hoses to bushings, etc. Most replacement repairs aren't difficult if you have the tools. Invest in an automotive reapir kit and a basic mechanic's course.

MargaretA · May 19, 2011

Thank you for the links, 4x4, but I don't think they're anywhere near me. At least I don't know of a Redding near Denver. Actually I have seen a couple of those trailers listed in this area, but they're either projects, which I can't do (I'm not mechanical at all), or already done and way out of my budget. But I do keep looking for them. I have RSS feeds set up for lots of different searches on Craigslist, in both the Cars & Trucks and the RVs sections. You never know where people are going to post things, and they don't always know the right term for what they're selling. (Tip for people looking for something like this: do a search in Cars & Trucks for "camper.") I don't have a vehicle right now; my cute little Escort's brakes died at the end of last year and since I wasn't planning on keeping it I just sold it. This does make traveling to look at anything - van, RV, etc. - not easy; I live right near downtown so there are a lot of buses around but it takes a long time to get anywhere. I know from reading the RV forums that if I'm going to have a trailer I should buy that first so I know what kind of tow vehicle to get, but I can't afford both right now, and it's really hard not having transportation. So I've been trying to find a vehicle that would have a decent towing capacity for one of those small trailers. Camping Life has a decent <a target="_blank" href="http://www.campinglife.com/towratin...odel=Cherokee&min_tlimit=&max_tlimit=">lookup page</a>; that's helped a lot. I also use <a target="_blank" href="http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/findacar.htm">Fueleconomy.gov</a> to check mpgs because I'm trying to find a good balance there. It's been a good learning experience for me seeing how engine size (among other things) relates to both tow capacity and mileage. Meg

Need translation from "mechanic" to "non-mechanic" language

Help Support Van Living Forum:

MargaretA

Well-known member

Guest

Guest

4x4tour

Guest

MargaretA

Well-known member

MargaretA

Well-known member

VanFan

Well-known member

MargaretA

Well-known member

4x4tour

Guest

Seraphim

Well-known member

MargaretA

Well-known member

Similar threads

Latest posts

Need translation from "mechanic" to "non-mechanic" language

Help Support Van Living Forum:

Well-known member

Guest

Guest

4x4tour

Guest

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

4x4tour

Guest

Well-known member

Well-known member

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!