Hello all,
Long time lurker, thought I'd post my build progress.
Bought a 2016 United 8.5x16x6.6 with beavertail cargo with tandem spring axles locally. Construction company bought the trailer for construction storage at job sites, and had about 250 miles on it (so I'm told, but tires are like new). I was very happy to see that there were no oil stains on the bare wood floor (3/4 plywood) as I am going to paint the floor early on.
There were a couple minor holes in the front wall where a long piece of aluminum was brought in carelessly, as a sheet metal brake was stored in it.
The walls were a very thin veneer (it would be an insult to plywood to call it that). Exterior is a curved roof, glued seams. 36" side door with ramp rear door. I crawled under with some exterior paint and rolled on a thick coat to protect the exposed the bare wood underside of the floor (was shocked no undercoating) I wasnt impressed with United's construction/welding methods either. The tongue is shorter than normal as what it appears they did was use a standard 14 foot frame, added the beavertail, and dropped a 16 foot body on it. Its the biggest detractor to the whole trailer in my mind. I had a trapezoid shaped steel plate made up of 1/4 mild steel and welded it under the tongue area for a couple battery boxes to fit.
Plan is to make a toy hauler for my SXS, and have sleeping quarters and the like in the nose end, with a creative twist under the bed. I am going to build the bed (sized for a Twin XL mattress) up 50 inches off the floor with a cavity under it 49" wide so that I can haul a friends ATV inside as well.
START OF BUILD:
After unscrewing the wall panels (8 point star head screws) and pulling all the trim off (short staples) I found a nice big mouse nest in the front corner, hence the shop vac in a picture. After forcefully and loudly removing Stuart Little's abode, I sprayed all the bare (yep no coating at all) metal hat type studs with undercoating spray can.
Soon after that I scrubbed and mopped the floor and let it dry before applying the garage floor type enamel paint. While it dried I measured 20 times and cut once to install the RV type door latch on the side door. I was surprised to find the door filled it solid wood. My wood chisels got a workout. As did my Dremel tool, which should be a pre-requsite to getting a Man Card
After cutting, installing, and taping the Poly-Iso 1" foil backed foam board insulation. I got creative and mounted the RV 30 Amp plug underneath the beavertail in a frame rail on the side so that I didnt have to drill a hole in the side. I've got a photo somewhere. As to the RV type pedestal cord I had some 12-4 105C rated industrial Romex type cord I found in the dumpster at work one morning walking by. I then bought the male and female twist lock ends and worked very hard at trying to get arthritis forcing that square cord through a round rubber hole.
Its a work in process, and I'm not a professional by any means.
Long time lurker, thought I'd post my build progress.
Bought a 2016 United 8.5x16x6.6 with beavertail cargo with tandem spring axles locally. Construction company bought the trailer for construction storage at job sites, and had about 250 miles on it (so I'm told, but tires are like new). I was very happy to see that there were no oil stains on the bare wood floor (3/4 plywood) as I am going to paint the floor early on.
There were a couple minor holes in the front wall where a long piece of aluminum was brought in carelessly, as a sheet metal brake was stored in it.
The walls were a very thin veneer (it would be an insult to plywood to call it that). Exterior is a curved roof, glued seams. 36" side door with ramp rear door. I crawled under with some exterior paint and rolled on a thick coat to protect the exposed the bare wood underside of the floor (was shocked no undercoating) I wasnt impressed with United's construction/welding methods either. The tongue is shorter than normal as what it appears they did was use a standard 14 foot frame, added the beavertail, and dropped a 16 foot body on it. Its the biggest detractor to the whole trailer in my mind. I had a trapezoid shaped steel plate made up of 1/4 mild steel and welded it under the tongue area for a couple battery boxes to fit.
Plan is to make a toy hauler for my SXS, and have sleeping quarters and the like in the nose end, with a creative twist under the bed. I am going to build the bed (sized for a Twin XL mattress) up 50 inches off the floor with a cavity under it 49" wide so that I can haul a friends ATV inside as well.
START OF BUILD:
After unscrewing the wall panels (8 point star head screws) and pulling all the trim off (short staples) I found a nice big mouse nest in the front corner, hence the shop vac in a picture. After forcefully and loudly removing Stuart Little's abode, I sprayed all the bare (yep no coating at all) metal hat type studs with undercoating spray can.
Soon after that I scrubbed and mopped the floor and let it dry before applying the garage floor type enamel paint. While it dried I measured 20 times and cut once to install the RV type door latch on the side door. I was surprised to find the door filled it solid wood. My wood chisels got a workout. As did my Dremel tool, which should be a pre-requsite to getting a Man Card
After cutting, installing, and taping the Poly-Iso 1" foil backed foam board insulation. I got creative and mounted the RV 30 Amp plug underneath the beavertail in a frame rail on the side so that I didnt have to drill a hole in the side. I've got a photo somewhere. As to the RV type pedestal cord I had some 12-4 105C rated industrial Romex type cord I found in the dumpster at work one morning walking by. I then bought the male and female twist lock ends and worked very hard at trying to get arthritis forcing that square cord through a round rubber hole.
Its a work in process, and I'm not a professional by any means.
