Mounting Solar on fiberglass top?

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WanderLoveJosh

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I tried to do a search and couldn't find what I was looking for, So sorry if this has been asked before.

Planning to mount Solar on my ford E-150 Conversion van, Looking for a simple solution and I was wondering if anyone  has anyone ever used Eternabond tape with some type of extra adhesive to hold a solar panel on a fiberglass roof, and of course how were the results if so?? I ask about eternabond tape because i've heard the hold on it is amazing, so cut me some slack if it sounds like a horrible idea... lol

Thanks
 
I know everybody swears by the tape either Eternabond or 3M VHB. if it was me I would bolt them on. I have used the 3M VHB and find it almost permanent. however where I used it was no big deal if it failed. remember when you are using the tape on a painted surface you are actually bonding to the paint not the fiberglass. highdesertranger
 
I'm not sure I would do it but I know people who have and it worked fine. A good way to do it is too use the tape to attach a long piece of Angle Aluminum to the roof, and then bolt the panels to the Angel Aluminum. Why? 1) a lot of surface area for the tape to bond to. 2) the panels are removable even if the angle remains behind.
Bob
 
All good thinking! My brain didn't even comprehend that I would only be bonding to paint.. Lol thanks for the replies!!
 
I put a framed panel on my fiberglass roof by making corner feet, and using polyester resin and fiberglass to adhere it to the roof.


I sanded through paint and gel coat to bare fiberglass with 36 grit sandpaper for maximum mechanical tooth.

I made a faux solar panel from wood,  so I could grind the bottom of the corner feet to the shape of the roof with minimal height added to the roof.  With the rounded shape of the roof I was not worried about ventilation, leaving only 1/2" on the leading edge center.

The other side of the roof got a stick on Unisolar pvl-68, no longer available, and I just put that down on fresh paint.
 
I too have an E150 with fiberglass top. I am looking to get the panels soon.

My questions is - why not just attach to the top? Clearly have to carefully seal the bolts, but other than that, why take the chance with adhesive?
 
Paisley777 said:
I too have an E150 with fiberglass top.  I am looking to get the panels soon.

My questions is - why not just attach to the top?  Clearly have to carefully seal the bolts, but other than that, why take the chance with adhesive?

While many fiberglass roofs do have some wood inside which can hold a screw pretty well, fiberglass itself is not so great a medium for retaining a screw.

My roof has some OSB strips sandwiched in between fiberglass which hold a screw OK.

To even come close to successfully getting a screw to hold OK in fiberglass, One MUST predrill the hole, and the drill bit diameter needs to be only a smidge  smaller than the diameter of the screw used, minus the threads.  Even predrilled with precision, the screw's  holding power is not all that great.  Ideally for both a water intrusion and for increased strength.......after the  sheet metal or wood screw cuts its own threads in the predrilled hole in the fiberglass, it would be backed out and polyester sanding/finishing resin applied with a Q tip to reseal the broken frayed fiberglass, then the screw redriven in before resin gels.  This will greatly strengthen the bite the screw has in the fiberglass. And the screw will still be able to be backed out at a later date after the resin gels, but one couls also apply  and remove some carwax to the Stainless steel screw to ensure it can be backed out later easily, but honestly nothing really bonds all that well to stainless steel.

I have drilled and tapped my fiberglass roof for 1/4-20 machine threads, and when tapping, one must go slow and make sure the fiberglass cuttings are properly ejected by backing off and blowing them away and it is all too easy to strip the hole if one is not precise on the anglem, and goes  very slow.

This was not for a solar panel install, but adding a 3rd brakelight which does not get really any stress on it as it is also glued, and only 1Cm high, if that.

20150510_145908_zps5lpwfo4t.jpg



I've also tapped thicker fiberglass rope saturated with epoxy and found the hold strength impressive, when the force was straight back but lateral stresses one could break the fiberglass by hand and rip the screw out if attempted.

 I wound up using those threads and glassed in threaded brass inserts too,  for maximum strength.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ZZS3BZ736GAZMYZYGVZ


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These screws are pulling my fiberglass roof down to the metal over the windshield.  The original conversion van company tried to get screws into this area and mostly failed, allowing the roof to flex way too much in this area, always breaking any sealant used, allowing in water and rust.

I roughed up the threads on those brass inserts and laid more epoxy saturated fiberglass rope around them.  I never tried to get them to thread into fiberglass which is what one would have to do if intending to use them on a solar panel install on a fiberglass roof.

I went a bit overboard with the homemade fiberglass rope and epoxy as the rust had eaten so much steel that it no doubt compromised strength.  now this area is ridiculously strong and no more issues with sealant cracking or water intrusion.

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So  Getting a screw to bite and hold in fiberglas is hardly impossible, but to do it right, requires some skills, and not just someone with a impact driver and self drilling Stainless steel screws, though this approach can work too, if performed skillfully and the fiberglass is at least 3/16 inches thick.
 
I understand the fiberglass can't be the strength to hold the screws.  I was thinking something more along the lines of using wood strips inside for screws or bolts to hold on to.  Like this with a roof fan (in a fan discussion the same issues about the fragility of fiberglass were talked about.  This was one solution) :
 

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good post stern, I agree. wood on the inside would work, but what type of fiberglass top are we talking? single wall, double wall, sandwich? depending on the construction of the top, there would be variations on the best method. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
good post stern,  I agree.  wood on the inside would work,  but what type of fiberglass top are we talking?  single wall,  double wall,  sandwich?  depending on the construction of the top,  there  would be variations on the best method.  highdesertranger

As for me... Having just installed a fan, I know mine is single.  So, am I correct in thinking the wood post method is a good choice for that?
 
yes the wood be ok I would use bolts not screws at least on the corners. highdesertranger
 
Agree with HDR. If you have access to the interior and it is only single layer fiberglass, use Stainless steel nuts bolts and large stainless washers. Ace hardware has a good selection of Stainless steel hardware, but one could get some other grades of stainless steel and some truss head bolts/screws on Mcmastercarr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=12q2zj2





It would be easier than gluing wood strips to the fiberglass and getting the screws to bit properly through the fiberglass and into the wood without mashing the threads cut in either wood or fiberglass.

I still recommend sealing the edges of the fiberglass after drilling even if there are no threads cur in the fiberglass, Even crazy glue on a Qtip would be adequate. The white fiberglass after drilling will likely turn back green or brown on application, depending on the resin initially used to mold the fiberglass high top.

Another hint on initially drilling fiberglass and even wood is to run the drill bit backwards until the tapered bit on the business end is submerged, then go forward. This is not best for the drill bit but much better for the fiberglass or wood.

You do not want the drill bit separating the layers of fiberglass when it first bites. And a step drill bit works nicely at giving an actual round hole, where normal spiral drill bits have a tendency to drill a 3 sided wonky hole.

Where I located my small mushroom vent at near the apex of the roof, there was no wood just about 1/4 inch of fiberglass. The wood began further back where there are more flat areas needing more support and where solar panels are more likely to reside. You could easily find different roof construction where you intend to attach solar panel feet, so keep your options open until you know for sure what lays inbetween.
 
The "large washers" are called fender washers. Their larger size spreads the load over a larger surface area and helps prevent damage to the substrate and pull through.
 
Mine are on with an adhesive only. Those orange bits are perforated angle steel. If you use an excessive bead of sealant, within reason, the adhesive comes through the holes & makes small 'button' pools. These add an incredible amount of strength to the bond.

This rig hasn't gone far but I have used this method & done many thousands of miles in all seasons.

This was install day, those wires have been tamed!
 

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I ordered some Sikaflex 252 from amazon. Lots of recommendations on how serious of a bond it is.

I'm thinking with this in mind I should be able to use the mounting screws that comes with the panels, and then use the sikaflex as well, and as long as I don't strip out the whole in the roof it should hold just fine right??
 
I would still use backing and bolts. is the fiberglass painted? the reason I ask is if it is the Sikaflex will adhere to the paint not the fiberglass. highdesertranger
 
I got them mounted, applied sikaflex in the predrilled hole, which I made smaller than the screw, so that it could get a bite on it.. it seemed to go down pretty good, of course I didn't try to over tighten it... I am Considering going back to each bracket and doing one more screw for good measure, since of course now i'm worried about the sika only being bonded to the paint. If you all strongly recommend that I do so, then let me know, because I'd rather hear from people who probably know better than I do. Don't wanna lose these bad boys going 70 down the road.
 

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like I said I would have used bolts not screws. but whatever makes you happy. does that rear door/window open down? it appears that way in the pic. highdesertranger
 
ok, in the 2nd pic where the bed is, there appears to be pillows and a downward opening door. I am just curious. highdesertranger
 
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