Max Burton fridge/freezer

[tx2sturgis]

... that would be Aervoe Industries,  in Gardnerville NV.  formerly Aervoe Pacific my truck is painted with their military paint Desert Sand 30277. 

Way off topic in my very late reply but we have similar preference in paint colors..I was reading thru this older material, and saw this reference to 30277 military paint color code.

I happen to have some of that stuff laying around...I use it often although the 1-gallon can here has never been opened.

Both of these paint vendors are in Texas.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I will be looking for an adjustable low voltage disconnect.

Here's one:


https://powerwerx.com/low-voltage-disconnect-battery-guard

 

[regis101]

So I've been data logging the voltage...... I will be looking for an adjustable low voltage disconnect.

I'm wondering and asking since I don't know yet.   Since the solar is still trying to provide output , is the battery low cutout feature not accurate or noticed at its set point vs a static battery draw.  ? Maybe it will cut out if run from straight battery

 

[tx2sturgis]

I'm wondering and asking since I don't know yet.   Since the solar is still trying to provide output , is the battery low cutout feature not accurate or noticed at its set point vs a static battery draw.  ? 

I believe Silver6 was referring to the LVD that is built-in to the fridge itself, which apparently is not shutting the fridge down when it should.

 

[regis101]

Yes.  I understand what he is saying.  I am wondering if whether or not having a charge source, however slight, can give a false sense of draw vs just battery alone.  He could disable the solar and try again using just the battery.
Case in point from my own observations.  I've noticed the battery voltage from the controller LCD screen can have a certain value when under a load.  Then when the load stops, the voltage reading can rise back up a bit.  Gives me the , What the ??, look
It's all good though. I can do the same experiment , in the near future. I'll report my findings also.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I've noticed the battery voltage from the controller LCD screen can have a certain value when under a load.  Then when the load stops, the voltage reading can rise back up a bit. 

Ok yeah...well some controllers do have remote battery sensing, so thats a bit more accurate...but I will assume few of us use that particular feature. I'm sure some do, but I never have.

And yes, under a load, the battery voltage will drop just a bit, this is a function of the battery's ability to hold its voltage under a load, battery charge level, amount of the load, and of course, voltage drop in the cables and connectors.

 

[Silver6gen]

I ran the test with the solar hooked up for one day, and with it unhooked for the second day. The variance was minimal.

The battery is about 6" from the fuse block, 4 gauge wiring between. Voltage was measured off of the fuse block.
From the fuse block to the Anderson power poles is a single run (+&-) of 8 gauge, the distance is about 2.5 feet.
the end of the 8 gauge is split to make two +/- Anderson power pole connection points. From there I cut the factory supply cable and put the connectors on them. The length of those is about 1 ft.

So voltage drop should be minimal.

Voltage was measured and logged about 2 minutes after both units had been in standby, this is where the 11.6v number comes from. When both units were running the voltage was 11.4v.

the only way to get an accurate value for % Discharge (charge state) of any battery is to allow all loads to be disconnected / off for about 2-3 minutes. This is when you will see the "rebound". Battery voltage level that is measured while it is discharging doesn't really give you any valuable information... Other than load applied.

 

[Silver6gen]

Amp draw notes from yesterday:

 

[Trebor English]

Amp draw notes from yesterday:

Approximately what was the ambient temperature?

 

[Silver6gen]

77 Noted in the top left of the table.

 

[Trebor English]

Thank you for posting useful detailed information.

 

[regis101]

Regarding post 147, can a or any conclusions be drawn?

sidenote, my laptop is not seeing results from post 148. no worries.

 

[tx2sturgis]

If there is a graph or something in post 148 I cant see it either....all I get is a grey circle that kind've looks like a "do not enter" traffic sign....and I have seen that on this forum in a few places....I don't know what it is.

:huh:

 

[John61CT]

A graphic link that's broken

 

[Silver6gen]

I'll fix it when I get home

 

[regis101]

So...  I did end up with the MB male ciggy plug being an issue after all.  It seems loose in the socket.  I had bumped it and that made the CC show a load fault or short circuit.  General,  but nonetheless I can't afford not having good contact while going down the road or something.

I did purchase a male/female 40a trolling motor plug/socket that would be an easy swap and life should be good.
Then, while researching for a replacement 12v cord I found the ARB cord.  I first went through Dometic since the MB seems to be a clone.  The choices were limited to one style, same as MB's.  For whatever reason I then stumbled across the ARB 12v cord.  Part number 10910076.  This has the same 90* two pronged end but a better looking male end as shown in pic's.
Pulled the trigger and it arrived today.  It is a better cord albeit subtly. The female side engaged the freezer using a bit more force thus making better contact.  The male plug end has a more positive engagement into the marine ciggy socket with less wiggle.  It is the wiggle that caused the error with the MB plug.  So I'll try this bit better cord for a while.  If all else fails, I can use the MB cord with replacing the male plug with the twist lock plug.  

 

[John61CT]

If you go to the trouble of cord surgery, a lower-amp Anderson PowerPole really is the way to go.

Yes lots of different trolling motor connections out there, but APP style is a better basis for standardizing all your high-amp (8+A) connections.

If not for you, then put it out there for others. In reality, ​anything but standard ciggie sockets, really a dangerous abortion.

 

[regis101]

Yep. I'm picking up what ur putting down. Anderson has some nice stuff.

If I was to build a dweller than things would definitely be stepped up.

As it stands, I'm using this unit between four vehicles so finding a decent cig plug is whats needed.

 

[John61CT]

I'd still just wire APP into those vehicles where possible, not rocket science.

Make up an APP-to-ciggie plug for when needed.

Or Blue Sea twist-lock ports, still ciggie compatible for other uses.

 

[Silver6gen]

I swear by the Anderson Power Poles.

Update:

53qt lid has broken two of the latches.  I suspected these would be one of the weak points in my initial review of the 37 qt, although I am surprised that they broke so soon.  I'm going to reach out to Aervoe to see if I can get a handful of replacements,  if they can't help I'll reach out to Waeco as some of their lids have the same design.

Here is the table from my last post