Looking at a van... has some damage

[gburke1]

Hi all, first I'd like to say thanks for taking the time to read my thread.

I am looking at my first van and this particular van has piqued my interest because
a) It's super cheap, only $1,000 (although it does have like 265,000 miles)
b) It's extended length
c) It's the 7.3 turbo diesel
d) It seemed to drive okay when I test drove it except that the wheel was a bit shaky (ball joints?)

If it wasn't for the following issue I'd probably buy it immediately...

I am wondering, what's the likelihood a body shop could fix something like this and how much might it cost?

Supposedly a branch fell on it... must have been some branch... although I don't really see any signs of damage other than on the top so who knows...

 

[karl]

I'd keep looking.
Body work will cost more than van is worth, guessing 4k.....
265 k on a work van is a lot.

 

[LeeRevell]

I see a great potential for major rust as the rain water pools in that low spot. Body work could get spendy. This is more than just simple dents, it is in the framework of the body. A good imaginative bodyman might work some kind of magic with hydraulic jacks and lumber? Lift from the inside?

 

[MikeRuth]

Seconds the "keep Looking" comment.

 

[Patrick46]

Body work could get spendy. This is more than just simple dents, it is in the framework of the body. Lift from the inside?

Correct on all accounts.

This is damage to the inner framework. This would be very expensive to repair. (probably $3K)

Personally, seeing that it's only cosmetic, I'd push out the top dent and leave the rest of it as is...except I'd paint some white Rustoleum over the exposed metal parts.)

265K is ALOT of miles too.

Offer him $600, and don't pay more than $700. Otherwise, walk away

 

[gburke1]

Correct on all accounts.

This is damage to the inner framework. This would be very expensive to repair. (probably $3K)

Personally, seeing that it's only cosmetic, I'd push out the top dent and leave the rest of it as is...except I'd paint some white Rustoleum over the exposed metal parts.)

265K is ALOT of miles too.

Offer him $600, and don't pay more than $700. Otherwise, walk away

How easy (or hard) do you think pushing out the top dent would be? Given that it's the 7.3 diesel is 265k still a lot for that engine?

 

[akrvbob]

The core of that engine will last 400-500K. But just like a gas engine everything around that core is going to fail much earlier--like right now!

But unlike a gas engine, fixing and replacing all those parts is tremendously more expensive.

Also, the trannys on those vans are very weak point, they simply aren't made for the torque of that diesel. Chances are it's been rebuilt once and it's ready for its second rebuild. It can be rebuilt to last a very long time, but that's very, very expensive.

Also, diesels are much heavier than gas engines and then you add in all the torque, I'd check the front end out very carefully, it can be very expensive to make it right.

I'd pass.
Bob

 

[gburke1]

Thanks - I am pretty sure I've decided against it. It's just too much work... it would be one thing if I knew how to fix these kind of things myself, but I don't. I found a much nicer looking one that appears to be well maintained from the photos... just have to save the money up.

 

[masterplumber]

Where is the van located if I can ask? If I could get it for $600 to $700 I'd buy it for the drivetrain. But then I'm kind of a diesel nut. I'd then find another one with a good body but maybe blown gas engine or something for another $500 and start combining them. Yes it would be a lot of work, but I can do most of it myself. Then I'd end up with my dream van for a lot less than these rare vans go for if you can find a clean one.

 

[gburke1]

Where is the van located if I can ask? If I could get it for $600 to $700 I'd buy it for the drivetrain. But then I'm kind of a diesel nut. I'd then find another one with a good body but maybe blown gas engine or something for another $500 and start combining them. Yes it would be a lot of work, but I can do most of it myself. Then I'd end up with my dream van for a lot less than these rare vans go for if you can find a clean one.

http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4793286450.html

 

[highdesertranger]

what year is that van? 250k is the half life for a 7.3, just as long as maintenance was kept up. the masterplumber has a great idea, but only if you are a mechanically inclined person. highdesertranger

 

[gburke1]

I'm thinking of buying the thing anyway... for some weird reason I kind of like the thing or want to fix it... IDK why. Must have been the diesel engine and fact that it's extended... I think worst case scenario I could scrap the thing for almost what I paid for it, if I paid around $600-700 for it

---

Any chance a rubber mallet might straighten out the top of the roof?

 

[highdesertranger]

to fix the dent in the roof I would do the jack and block method. it's much more controllable than taking a hammer to it. highdesertranger

 

[Patrick46]

to fix the dent in the roof I would do the jack and block method. it's much more controllable than taking a hammer to it. highdesertranger

X2 ^^^

 

[wagoneer]

Out here you can sell a vehicle with reg owned for more than a year for 1500 if you qualify income wise Salvage yards are re-embursed by the Gov. and cannot resell only part out. If it starts right away (easy starting) the glowplugs are OK when the glowplugs are changed usually the injectors are as well that is a costly repair 3k, but your good for another 150k. I was thinking rollover but falling tree makes more sense. I would also Jack the roof or get a high top.

 

[HarmonicaBruce]

If it was me, I'd see if the roof leaks, and if it doesn't, I'd clean it up, paint the rusted spots, and call it good. If it doesn't leak, and you try to fix the dent, you could be causing it to leak, and what do the dents hurt? If it does leak some, I'd consider laying some fiberglass on top, which may fail after a few of years, but so what. You could also use mobile home roof tape. I fixed some roof leaks in my last van using JB Weld, which worked great but was a lot of work applying. I'd drive it very gingerly. I think there's a good chance you could get good service from it, and the price is right. If you eventually got it all squared away, you could get a fiberglass top and just cut that damaged roof right out.

 

[gburke1]

I am unfamiliar with the "jack and block" method... what exactly does this entail? Is it something that you would need assistance to do?

 

[highdesertranger]

you can do it yourself. on the inside place a suitable jack on the floor a hydraulic jack works good, brace the floor if you have to, a short 4x4 works good. take another 4x4 from the jack to the roof. the end of the 4x4 on the roof should match the contour of the roof. then jack away. you will have to judge where to put the 4x4 and you will have to move it around. pay special attention to creases. this job kinda takes a feel for where to jack and how much. you might want to make a pad for the roof a little larger than a 4x4. don't over jack or you will have a bunch of dimples as if you did it with a hammer, keep moving the jack around. I hope I kinda explained it. I have taken some nasty dents out with this method. highdesertranger

 

[Patrick46]

you can rent a jack like this for acouple hours from an equipment rental place relatively cheaply. ^^^

Tell 'em what you wanna do, and they'll understand and get you the right one.

 

[highdesertranger]

Patrick is right they are called "porta-power". if you have one of those you don't need all the 4x4s, although it's still a good idea to have a shaped piece to go against the roof. what area are you in? I am in so cal and have a porta-power. highdesertranger