Lightest "useful" 12V battery?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JJPDX

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2016
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
Location
Portland
Hello- I have a van and itchy feet.  I also have a Renogy 100W portable suitcase solar panel.  What I do not have is a fully converted van yet.  I plan (dream) of embarking on the conversion soon and it will include roof-top solar and a bank or two of 6 V batteries.

But I want to go camping now.  Simple bed solution, basic gear.

My intial electrical needs are simple too, at this point: keep cell phone and Microsoft Surface lapop charged; an LED light or 2; a clip on fan.  That should be it.  I have an inverter, which I know to turn off when not in use.  Someday, with the build, I'll likely have much more: more lights; 12 V frig; maybe a basic entertainment system; etc.

But for now I want to: 1) practice "the life"; 2) be able to boondock for 2-3 days, perhaps with trees around- here in the Great NorthWest!

So- I'm thinking I may need to move the panel and the battery to a sunny spot at a distance from the van.

Thus, can one recommend a good quality, but relatively light, 12 V battery?  I'll have a bike trailer to move it around if necessary (pull-able by hand too).

Reading many of the threads about newbies and their batteries- I fully expect to kill it... that's not my prime intention but seems a common result!

Than you for your patience.

jj
 
How many amp hours(aH) a day do you figure you want\need?
 
If it were me I'd just go to Walmart and buy the biggest Marine battery they have. Keep the reciept to return it if necessary.

Here in Oregon it's not all that hot. We don't have to worry about parking in the shade. In fact I'm looking for warmth, moved over to the eastern desert. If you are concerned about heat, do you have a two wheel dolly? Just stick the battery and suitcase on it and roll it out into the sun with an inverter and run your few items off 110 volt and an extension cord. You'll waste some energy, but it doesn't sound like too much. No problem for 3 days, just go home and put a battery charger on it.
Bob
 
BradKW said:
Since you don't need really heavy cable between panels and charge controller, maybe just get some longer cable...10 or 12 awg. Here's a set of 12 awg cables with MC4 connectors, 100 feet for under $20...

One Pair Black + Red Solar Panel Extension Cable Wire MC4

I had to check that price because it seemed to good to be true. It was...bummer lol. The under 20$ is the 10' section. The 100' 12AWG is around 60$. I keep my battery in my van and run the solar panel out with 40' of 10AWG cable. Then I run a heavy duty 10AWG extention cord(normal extention cord) from the battery to my tent. Works great. The 10AWG 40' section from the link is 40$. Not a bad price if the cable is decent.
 
I bought the Sams 70 Ah Duracel 24DCC. I wanted the smaller group size 24. It is about 45 pounds. vibration from pulling it around on a bicycle trailer might be bad for it.
As for killing it, keep it charged and watered and it should be ok.
 
If you are flush with money, a LiFePo4 battery is the lightest for an equal charge density. It charges and discharges much more efficiently too, getting the most from your solar panels. For example, a 50AH lithium ion battery like this one can store as much usable electrical power ( as it can be discharged to 70% of capacity without damaging it, not just 50% like a lead acid battery) as the 70ah Sams Duracell. It only weighs 15lbs to boot - saving you 30 lbs versus a lead acid of equivalent usefulness. Plus it will outlast a conventional lead acid battery by a factor of 10 to 1!

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Batter...73899462&sr=8-5&keywords=lithium+rv+batteries

The downside - everything has a downside, right? It costs $690 and needs a special charging profile (more money for a special solar controller) to optimize it.

But you know what thy say, you wanna play, you gotta pay.

Chip
 
Just curious why moving the battery too? I thought those with suitcase solar only moved the cases? Where's the solar guys with the answers?
 
For a couple of days here and there these will get your 100w panel out to where the sun is and keep the controller by the battery. OR you could stop by a goodwill and see if they don't have some heavy duty extension cords cheap.

100 ft 10 AWG $30
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Ft-10-G...519922?hash=item2a19ebf2b2:g:VxwAAOSwPcVVnn1t

50 ft, $20

http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-FT-10-Ga...853898?hash=item27c640b4ca:g:ADAAAOSwKtlWi~fn

As far as to how much a battery should weigh outside of the super expensive, they all weigh the same. Pound for pound, Ah to Ah, the more Ah's you need, the more pounds it will weigh. Depending on how much you use your phone, surface pro and fans, you may not need to recharge a marine battery until you got home. Use them too much and you may not make it through the day.

So the question is how much does the battery that fits your needs weigh.
 
That is the why for golf cart batteries. Last longer. easier to move two rather than one big.
 
sushidog said:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Batter...73899462&sr=8-5&keywords=lithium+rv+batteries

The downside - everything has a downside, right? It costs $690 and needs a special charging profile (more money for a special solar controller) to optimize it.

But you know what thy say, you wanna play, you gotta pay.

Chip

THIS BUSINESS IS NOT BBB ACCREDITED... They have an F rating and have an ALERT for the business
Reason for Rating
BBB rating is based on 13 factors.
Factors that affect the rating for Smart Battery, LLC include:
• 58 complaints filed against business
• Failure to respond to 11 complaints filed against business.
• 3 complaints filed against business that were not resolved.
• Business has failed to resolve underlying cause(s) of a pattern of complaints.

Good idea to always read the customer feedback and act accordingly.


Now to the OP,
I'd go with Bob's recommendation. You'll lose some capacity but a full recharge when you get home and your good to go again.
 
Till you set up for fulltime, I think the Walmart "marine" battery is a good investment, as well as a training aid (so to speak).

For cable, check out landscape cable. Tough, UV safe, sells by the foot.
 
Can the surface pro be charged via the mini USB like my 2 in 1 windows tablet? I was so happy to find out that my phones, hotspots and the computer I was likely to use the most could all be charged one way and without a inverter. without living on the devices day and night, the smallest marine battery would be over kill for 3 or 4 days.
 
If the battery is going to be moved frequently perhaps a less expensive AGM would be better.

Deka Intimidators are relabelled and sold as duracell and energizer at sams club and costco and some auto parts stores. and are a USA made bargain AGM of good enough quality.

Universal battery is an Asian made AGM of about the same price.



If the battery is going to be exposed to sunlight, perhaps paint its casing white. a Hot battery eats its plates faster.

2 flooded batteries of equal size, the heavier battery will be more resistant to deep cycling abuse.

AGM batteries tend to weigh more than their flooded counterparts for the same capacity.

With many deep cycles accumulated , the 100AH AGM should receive near 30 amps from its most depleted state to help the electrolyte migrate through the plates. AGMs can be tickled to death with low charge currents, even if they are fully charged each time at a slower rate.

Lightest and lithium go hand in hand.

Newbie and lithium do not.

Whatever plug in charging source is used, and how it is used, after the 3 or 4 day outing, will have a great effect on battery longevity. 
 If an AGM, then seek a charger that can do ~1/3 the capacity in amperage.  Apply this higher amperage to battery in most depleted state.

If a wet/flooded, the amp rating of the charger is less important.  Leave automatic charger plugged for days after returning home and days after it first flashes green light.

Since one cannot look at  a battery and determine its health, only a capacity test or a load test can give indications there of. A Newb should instead seek to insure their charging sources are able to do the job they claim to do, which is fully charge the lead acid battery.

You'd think any automatic charger can do this, but they are timid, and usually undercharge and throw a green light prematurely, especially on a deeply cycled abused marine battery.

When at home with such a battery, After it flashes the green light, apply a larger load to battery, like an old vehicle headlamp until voltage falls below 12.6v and then restart charger, then remove load.  Lather rinse repeat, as getting it from 92% to 100% will have a great effect on its longevity ( capacity retainment) and its performance ( holding a high enough voltage under load to power appliances) the next time it is used.

If battery is to sit for months without use, Keep it as cool as possible, and recharge it monthly, or use a maintainer to keep it at 100% and ready to go. 


100% charged on a flooded battery can only be definitively determined by a Hydrometer. The green light on any charging source is mocking any human who believes it without verifying it.

OTC 4619 is good enough.  If one cares to go this far.  It is just a rented battery after all.  the length of rental contract is negotiable depending on how well the battery is recharged.

Recharging perfection can be taken to insane extremes, but some minimums should be met to get acceptable service life from a battery.  The manufacturer or retailer should not have to warranty a battery that was killed by abuse.

A newb can so easily kill a battery, and then complain when it no longer appears to 'take a charge'.
 
Esquatting dog2 said:
JJPDX...                 sorry, just couldn't help myself. :D :D

That's it!  Duel purpose and well grounded. 

:)

jj
 
Top