Kyocera 325w: good choice for the van?

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And another stupid question: what keeps the cable secured to the battery? Since some connections all they have is a ring at the end?
 
Set the multimeter to 200 v, and in full sun it should read the max voltage OCV listed on the panel. Does not mattery if the leads are backwards, it will just say - 48.2 volts, or whatever the Kyocera 325 is listed at.


I would not be happy with the bent panel. Imagine if it works fine now, as it should, but the bend has stretched. perhaps compromised , the sealant which keeps water out from between glass and silicone. In a year a couple cells could get all cloudy from moisture intrusion.

So you ask for warranty service, perhaps they get the panel after you pay to ship it back. and then they say NO, the frame is bent!. your SOL.

Whomever delivered this panel is on the hook. I hate raising a stink but that is not a cheap panel and you paid a lot to have it shipped, and it IS damaged, even if it reads full voltage in full sun.
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The larger the battery interconnects are, the more multiple batteries behaves as one big battery.

However, size the interconnects as big or bigger than any other cabling used between charging source and battery or discharging load and battery, like the alternator and the inverter, whose cables should be the fattest copper diameter.

2 12 v batteries are + to + which is a parallel connection. 6v batteries require a different, series setup., + to the - of the other 6v and 12v cables taking power at the far ends.

With 2 12v, take the (-) off one battery and the (+) off of the other battery, for all loads and charging sources. Do not connect the loads and sources to the same battery. Doing so makes one battery work harder than the other and leads to imbalance.

Usually the cables are stiff enough that the ring terminals are all that is needed, however use Zip ties and cable clamps to keep the weight of the wires off of connections is wise. you do not want them vibrating with your engine.

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Perfo...8&qid=1432371216&sr=1-5&keywords=cable+clamps
 
SternWake, thank you! Great help.
Would one of those cables auto parts stores have to connect batteries be good? I saw some yesterday, and some were as low as 1 gauge.
 
Take a magnet with you. If the ring terminals on the cable ends are attracted to the magnet, walk away with a look of derision on your face.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables

The above site makes absolute top quality cables and likely for less $ than the AP stores. You can check the prices on various lengths, gauges and with different terminations.

The shipping is also fast and free. My orders were always shipped priority mail and arrived 3 days after placing order. Though I did not have custom cables made, I just ordered cables and terminations, and his prices and products cannot be beat.
 
SternWake, thank you again!! I will order from them. It also just happens that you answered another question I had. As you see in the picture the Lifeline batteries have different thickness terminals;
9462e111b6de7212e751236c61bcecf0.jpg

When I place the order, should I have the cable go straight to the battery like this,
6a15cd41236b13afb1dd25d3a9720138.jpg

Or make a small loop like this,
128daefc7ffc13faf03a5dc5c7c97147.jpg

Thanks!
 
I did place the panel in the sun it it read 49.7, 49.8. Next to VOC it said 49.9. I hope that a good thing. [emoji106][emoji106]
 
2 - 12 V batteries should be connected in parallel, positive to positive, negative to negative.  Connect your house wiring positive to one battery and the negative (last connection) to the other battery.  I used 4 gauge cable to connect my batteries together.
 
I'd be telling them that they need to be sending you a new panel. They ship with a minimum of packaging because the panels are cheap and can be replaced cheaper than the cost of properly crating them for shipping. I know because I design and build crates for artwork in that size, the crate alone is more than the panel cost.

Yes it may function but you paid for a proper panel, not a second which is what it is with a bent frame. They may have intentionally sent you a bent panel, the shipper may have damaged it,, either way it isn't what you paid for. What effect you will see once it is roasting in bright sun may still to be seen. This isn't a "I change my mind" thing, tell them you want another and they can arrange for the return of the old, or the shipper that damaged it or you will dispute the charges on your credit card. You paid a lot, get what you paid for.
 
Yes, have the terminations covered with heatshrink.

The ring terminals should only be big enough to fit over the stud. You can buy them with a smaller opening and drill them out if they are too small.

The cable gauge you need is dependent on too many factors to tell you one way or the other what you need.

What will be your biggest load, your biggest charging source? How long is the distance between load/ source and battery(s)?

I generally oversize my wiring as Voltage drop is the curse of all 12vDC systems.
 
SternWake said:
Yes, have the terminations covered with heatshrink.

The ring terminals should only be big enough to fit over the stud. You can buy them with a smaller opening and drill them out if they are too small.

The cable gauge you need is dependent on too many factors to tell you one way or the other what you need.

What will be your biggest load, your biggest charging source? How long is the distance between load/ source and battery(s)?

I generally oversize my wiring as Voltage drop is the curse of all 12vDC systems.

Very useful info, thank you!
I don't know what my biggest load will be. Maybe a 24" LED TV? Maybe a small refrigerator? To be on the safe side how would 0 gauge do? Or maybe 2/0? Or would that be too thick?
 
akrvbob said:
I agree with jimidenver, do whatever it takes to get a new, perfect panel.
Bob

I'm going to see what else they tell me on Tuesday. They already talked to Kyocera and said that if I have voltage it should be fine. Had I seen how it was bent before I signed, it would be on its way back right now, unfortunately I didn't.
There's a lesson to be learned here somehow.
[emoji106][emoji106]
 
Egad man.

Battery interconnects parallel or series can be that big and not really be ridiculously expensive, but 0 gauge has a ~ 1/2 diameter cross section. Putting this between alternator and Aux battery is basically overkill. Usually 4 awg is plenty on this circuit.

Place your solar controller close the the house batteries and use as fat a cable as you can stuff into the terminals between charge controller and battery.

Usually only the large inverter the converter/charger/ and alternator require fat cabling.

I have some 2/0 battery interconnects left over from when I had a parallel house bank. They were certainly overkill, but also free to me at the time so I employed them
 
Here is my battery bank before the solar instal.  4 gauge wires Left side positive, right side to ground.
 

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GotSmart said:
Here is my battery bank before the solar instal.  4 gauge wires Left side positive, right side to ground.

I wasn't sure, do I need to ground the batteries? Both or just one! Will a screw to the side rib will do?
 
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