Kyocera 325w: good choice for the van?

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So...making final solar set up list.
The things I think I need;

Solar panel. [emoji736]
AGM batteries. [emoji736]
MPPT charge controller. [emoji736]
Cables. [emoji736]
Fuses. [emoji736]

Is it possible for at least one of you to draw me something like this...
e802f656db04888c386eb37c721daa37.jpg

...that actually works and not like my ignoramus drawing here?

Thank you, much appreciated!
 
There is nothing wrong with that drawing, it's all basically + to + and - to -.

That's probably a high voltage panel so your standard 12 volt fuses won't work from the panel to the controller, most people use a circuit breaker http://www.solar-electric.com/mnepv.html and put it in a box like this http://www.solar-electric.com/baby-box.html. You'll also need a controller made for the voltage. Often, people will take it out of the controller and back into another circuit breaker in the box so everything is in one box. No more blade fuses, just a circuit breaker.

The high end controllers do a lot more so sometimes setting all the options can be confusing. Just go slow and buy it from someone who will let you call them and walk you through it if you need help.

As you know, I recommend NAWS for all your parts unless you can get them local from someone good. Not the panel, shipping on that panel would be at least $100 or more. http://www.solar-electric.com/ I've called them and asked them for help and they were great.

If you are buying a seperate battery meter, that usually means a shunt and then things get substantially more complicated, I've never done it, so I can't help you.
Bob
 
akrvbob said:
There is nothing wrong with that drawing, it's all basically + to + and - to -.

That's probably a high voltage panel so your standard 12 volt fuses won't work from the panel to the controller, most people use a circuit breaker http://www.solar-electric.com/mnepv.html and put it in a box like this http://www.solar-electric.com/baby-box.html. You'll also need a controller made for the voltage. Often, people will take it out of the controller and back into another circuit breaker in the box so everything is in one box. No more blade fuses, just a circuit

Thanks Bob for the info!
 
Got the solar kit from NAWS, and picked Dave's brain till he was ready to puke. [emoji13][emoji40]
The solar panel I wanted was the 325 watt, and they had a kit with pretty much everything I was going to buy, except the digital display; $118 extra.
Here's what I got, feel free to opine.
bafb020349219582bb1bbb3c3d4bdf6d.jpg

6ec5fed075381d00bafe24602ea1855c.jpg

d73cfcd240237bfdd9f67ce297ef5f8c.jpg
 
As for batteries, I'm going with about 225 amps from Lifeline.

Bob, I told Dave you recomended me and he said; "Bob Who?" Actually he knew you right away. Thanks.
 
You could have got 400 watts from Renogy for less, but every component is top notch, you won't regret it at all. That's not a put-down of Reneogy, I recommend them, but this system is better and my guess is it will put more power into the battery than the Renogy 400 watts would. Every step of the way, this system is slightly better and the sum is more than the total of the parts.

Do I dare ask how much shipping was on that monster panel?
Bob
 
I fired my TS-MPPT-60 for the first time today. So much more complicated than my old controllers but all those features were worth it. The nice thing is that it ran at 48 amps for hours and didn't even warm up.
 
Do I dare ask how much shipping was on that monster panel?
Bob
[/quote]

[emoji40] I'm not saying...
I could have bought another panel Bob. $300 and some. Everything else about $30. It is what it is, and it's done now. I didn't find any place near me.
Now, Bob, I will need you to stop all you're doing, drive east just a few little miles, and give me a hand with all this DC, watts, amps, currents, volts, meters, fuses, wires, gauges, controllers, panels, charges, AGMs whatchamacallits thingamajigs. [emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]
 
I can handle most of that stuff, but the whatchamacallits and thingamajigs are way over my head!!!

You'll need Sternwake, Highdesertranger or Jim in Denver for those!!

But I'll tell you right now, if you have any locusts no one is coming to help you!! A man has gotta know his limitations!
Bob
 
akrvbob said:
I can handle most of that stuff, but the whatchamacallits and thingamajigs are way over my head!!!

You'll need Sternwake, Highdesertranger or Jim in Denver for those!!

But I'll tell you right now, if you have any locusts no one is coming to help you!! A man has gotta know his limitations!
Bob

I'm completely locust free! I am, really! I'll even buy whoever comes half a sandwich for their hard work. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji106][emoji106]

I think I can do it. Dave also said I could give him a call. [emoji1][emoji106][emoji604][emoji295]️[emoji336][emoji335][emoji362]
 
SternWake said:
Blue seas makes excellent products. A fuse block organized wiring nicely. I prefer to use a separate Buss bar for the (-) and not have any (-) run to the fuse block, but it is a personal choice.

I use the 10 fuse version of this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-1...9-3853904?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GVT724A6H2FGVWJQ58S

A (-) buss bar like this:

http://www.amazon.com/426738-1-Buss...=UTF8&qid=1431539206&sr=1-6&keywords=buss+bar

What's the difference between having the negative "parked" in the same bus versus a different bus?
Thanks!
 
akrvbob said:
It' a very good choice! I have the same thing except it is just 6 fuses.
Bob

Thanks Bob! Not sure I'll need 12 but the price difference is minimum so why not. [emoji106]
 
I have the 12, and glad I bought it. a few strategically placed outlets, a couple of lights, ceiling fan. Another light and outlet ~~~ Another vent fan. Having separate circuits sure helps troubleshooting problems.
 
Got the solar panel but need help.
The panel came a little bent, but NAWS guy called Kyocera and they said as long as it has power it should be fine. Nothing is cracked. Just bent as the picture shows.
51950a44693416f3023cc8a8b9a1ab4a.jpg

62ce3115fca2cf8efa64e213e0317b61.jpg


My question is; how do I set up the multimeter correctly?
345056a1b0745df98824904b1082ce15.jpg

Thanks!
 
Also, what gauge wire should I use to connect the two batteries together?
I'm assuming since I only have two batteries that I'm going straight positive to positive and neg to neg?
 
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