Kyocera 325w: good choice for the van?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Luisafernandes

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2014
Messages
908
Reaction score
0
Location
Northeast
Hi folks! 
I'm getting to that stage where solar is next!
I believe I can fit a 325w Kyocera panel up on the roof. Arizona W & S website says they aren't necessarily made for RVs. My thinking is that they'll be fine. Anyone think not?
I know all this information is in here somewhere but, besides the panel I would need; 
MPPT charge controller. 
AGM batteries matching the watts in amps. I.e., 325 amps. 
Cables. The thicker the better. 
What else am I missing? 
Will the MPPT controller have a digital readout to see the solar input? And will it trickle charge the battery or do I need something else to do that? 
Fuse box also needed. 
And I feel I'm forget in a few things...
Any help will be much appreciated! 
Thanks!
 
The only thing about going that large is it's going to take a MPPT controller that can handle it's Voc. The least expensive would be a EP tracer unit for under $200 but I don't know if that is with or without the remote display. Also that is a 6 ft panel, I'd make sure I support the middle of the frame.
 
I have several friends who bought the big Kycoera panels for their vans and they have worked out just fine. One friend bought two of them for his Dodge Maxi-Van.

I'd buy everything as a kit from NAWS. However, shipping on that panel is going to be very expensive to the east coast. Do you have a source closer?

Some MPPT controllers come with displays and some don't, be sure to factor that in to the price when you are deciding. You'll be happy with any of the big names, they all make a good product: I know lots of people with the Morningstar's TriStar and all have been happy, but Outback, Snieder and Midnight Solar are all great also.
Bob
 
Speaking of controllers...

Tracking says my Morningstar TS-MPPT-60 will be here tomorrow. I'll miss the ease of the little Eco-w's but since they don't make a 60a model....
 
You don't NEED to match the Watts out with the battery AH exactly, that is just a guideline. If the batteries put out less, that is fine, size THEM to what your needs will be plus a healthy margin.
Secondly, that panel is very large, and shipping cost will be very high. Or will you pick it up locally?
Thirdly, you may have less shading issues with multiple panels, depending on the situation.
 
Anything Kyocera will be good. I Have 3X 130GT's on my rig with a Midnight Kid MPPT charge controller and two 6V GC2's.
 
It is hard to have too much solar for the battery, but quite easy to have too much battery capacity for one's solar.


AGM batteries enjoy and require higher average charging currents than flooded batteries, and will benefit from a higher wattage to AH capacity.

It is not just a matter of replacing the AH used plus a little more, but giving the battery enough time to remain at absorption voltages for as long as it takes to indeed fully charge the battery.

And one cannot trust a blinking green light to indicate a fully charged battery.  the blinking green light is only indicative that the charge controller brain has decided that absorption voltage has been held as long as it was programmed to hold it.

If one has a flooded battery, and checks specific gravity when that blinking green light starts flashing, 9 times out of 10 the Hydrometer will reveal the green light for the insane liar that it is.

In my opinion, in this lifestyle, and if Solar it to be the primary charging source, the higher the solar wattage/ AH capacity the better.
Absolute minimum is 1watt per 1AH of capacity,IMO
If I had 325 watts of solar I would not get more than 200AH of AGM and 220 to 240AH  of Flooded battery capacity.

AGMs are great for the little likelihood of offgassing factor, but they are a bit more obstinate than flooded when not recharged properly or fully, regularly, and since they are considerably more expensive, one should understand this going into the purchase.

Having a solar controller whose absorption voltage setting can be adjusted for  the particular battery being recharged, will treat the battery better than one which does not.

Read up on Mainesail's assessment of AGM batteries:

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124973
 
That is a large panel but I have four 270 watt panels that I mounted with no problem and they are just a tad smaller in dimensions.

1080 watts solar into 250AH of batteries.   Now that the sun is shining in Seattle, I am getting 750+ watts...hope to get more down south.
 
That's great IGBT. I'm waiting for the little brown truck to deliver my TS-MPPT-60 right now. The weather is cruddy here so I guess I'll be running low light test on the three 250w panels over the weekend.
 
I've decided to bite the bullet and order 3 more 100w panels.This will give me 2400 watts total.I'll put them in a hinged mount so I can transfer them to my camper when we hit the road.That will give me 600w on the camper.Guess I'll have to add another couple of batteries.These panels are Korean mfd. at $117 each Free shipping..Not familiar with the brand,but we'll see how it goes.
 
SternWake said:
It is hard to have too much solar for the battery, but quite easy to have too much battery capacity for one's solar.


AGM batteries enjoy and require higher average charging currents than flooded batteries, and will benefit from a higher wattage to AH capacity.

It is not just a matter of replacing the AH used plus a little more, but giving the battery enough time to remain at absorption voltages for as long as it takes to indeed fully charge the battery.

And one cannot trust a blinking green light to indicate a fully charged battery.  the blinking green light is only indicative that the charge controller brain has decided that absorption voltage has been held as long as it was programmed to hold it.

If one has a flooded battery, and checks specific gravity when that blinking green light starts flashing, 9 times out of 10 the Hydrometer will reveal the green light for the insane liar that it is.

In my opinion, in this lifestyle, and if Solar it to be the primary charging source, the higher the solar wattage/ AH capacity the better.
Absolute minimum is 1watt per 1AH of capacity,IMO
If I had 325 watts of solar I would not get more than 200AH of AGM and 220 to 240AH  of Flooded battery capacity.

AGMs are great for the little likelihood of offgassing factor, but they are a bit more obstinate than flooded when not recharged properly or fully, regularly, and since they are considerably more expensive, one should understand this going into the purchase.

Having a solar controller whose absorption voltage setting can be adjusted for  the particular battery being recharged, will treat the battery better than one which does not.

Read up on Mainesail's assessment of AGM batteries:

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=124973

Sorry it's taken a while to answer back.
First, thank you for responding!
I'm also looking at a 330w Kyocera panel, but if I understand you correctly, I shouldn't buy a 330amp battery but a little less. From your calculation, 125amps or so less than watts. If I'm making lots of solar, would it be better to have at least the same as watts? I know you already said I shouldn't but I'm asking again out of ignorance.

Would I be better served with one 12v or two 6v batteries?
I'm looking at eco direct.com and they have these;
80a570bf8078c297b42e50d1b1f75568.jpg

2c748ceeb4d232bd14c2655a2bc46355.jpg

Are they any good or should I get something else? A while back I read about a different brand name...which I can't remember now. They were some of the best, maybe you know?

Thank you!
 
jimindenver said:
The only thing about going that large is it's going to take a MPPT controller that can handle it's Voc. The least expensive would be a EP tracer unit for under $200 but I don't know if that is with or without the remote display. Also that is a 6 ft panel, I'd make sure I support the middle of the frame.

Thank you, I'll look into that. [emoji106]?[emoji3][emoji604]
 
akrvbob said:
I have several friends who bought the big Kycoera panels for their vans and they have worked out just fine. One friend bought two of them for his Dodge Maxi-Van.

I'd buy everything as a kit from NAWS. However, shipping on that panel is going to be very expensive to the east coast. Do you have a source closer?

Some MPPT controllers come with displays and some don't, be sure to factor that in to the price when you are deciding. You'll be happy with any of the big names, they all make a good product: I know lots of people with the Morningstar's TriStar and all have been happy, but Outback, Snieder and Midnight Solar are all great also.
Bob

Thanks Bob!
I'm looking but I'm not sure if I have a solar panel supplier closer to me.
The reason I'm going with such large panel is because if I use anything smaller, but larger than 140w I'll only be able to fit one. And two 140s only equal 280, 50w less than I can get with the 330w panel.
Is the Morningstar one of the best, one of the most expensive, or both?
 
LeeRevell said:
You don't NEED to match the Watts out with the battery AH exactly, that is just a guideline. If the batteries put out less, that is fine, size THEM to what your needs will be plus a healthy margin.
Secondly, that panel is very large, and shipping cost will be very high. Or will you pick it up locally?
Thirdly, you may have less shading issues with multiple panels, depending on the situation.

I don't think I'll be able to pick them up locally, not sure though, may have to look a little harder.
The problem with multiple panels is that I may not be able to fit them and have as much solar wattage. [emoji106]?[emoji3][emoji604]
 
Another question I have looking at Kyocera's website is that they'll have a solar panel, let's say 200w, with 1000v and the same panel with 600v. What's the difference?? Which one would be the right application?
ac49d1f879166b80cfca24f7da66abf6.jpg
 
Luis, Concorde sun extender AGM is the same company that makes Lifeline AGM's which are basically the top DOG cycleable AGM battery available with the thickest positive plates.


One might surmise that AGM batteries designed for Solar applications will be happier with lesser currents compared to the run of the Mill AGM battery.  However I do not know if the Sunextender brand is made any different internally than regular Lifeline AGM.  It could just be a different sticker on the same battery and a higher price.

Checking the Specs it is impossible to tell as they do not list capacity at the standard 20 hour rate like  Lifeline AGM but use the 24 hour rate.  The weights are similar among the same size battery.  I'd guess they are the same

If a 325 watt panel is your choice, then the choice is how much battery capacity to get for it.

If the solar is to be the only recharge source, then I'd say that 200 to 230 AH of AGM capacity is a good match.

Can you live on 100 to 115AH  or less ?

If you somewhat regularly implement other higher amp charging sources like a well wired alternator or 40+ amp plug in charger, then one can have more AGM capacity for the solar wattage.

Capacity requirements in winter are different than in summer, as not only do shorter days mean less time for the sun to recharge, and less current during those those times, but longer nights to discharge the battery more and possibly heavier loads too, like for powering a heating pad.

I just checked the COncorde sunextender PDF and it is basically the same as Lifeline AGM, and they say for repetitive cycling to 50% or less, then a charging source of 0.2C, or 20 amps for a 100 AH battery are required.  Same as Lifeline AGM.


http://www.sunxtender.com/pdfs/Sun_Xtender_Battery_Technical_Manual.pdf

Not meeting the ideal battery manufacturer recommendations is not going to cause the battery bank to fail instantly, but with such expensive batteries one should at least know what is Ideal for them, and draw a line in the sand as to how much effort one is willing to go to meet that Ideal recharge pattern.

Getting them to 100% as often as possible is likely more important than the rate at which they are charged, BUT, more solar per the capacity carried makes it more likely that both requirements are met a higher rate of recharge and a true 100% recharge too.

But obviously one does not want to take the batteries below 50% regularly either.  Some people have large banks and never draw their banks below 75%, and this works fine too, but at this state of charge and higher batteries resist being recharged at high rates.  So while the less deep the discharge cycle, the less abusive it is to the battery, and one has a bigger buffer for bad weather, when the weather does clear up, then too little solar does not meet the thirsty AGM requirement of 0.2C, or 20 amps per 100AH of storage, and getting high amp chargers that can meet the specs is also not a cakewalk in either the shopping or payment department.  

Depleted AGMs can ask for Huge recharging currents from a well wired alternator, much more so than flooded batteries, and as such can overheat an Alternator shortening its life.

So  tailoring your battery capacity to your solar wattage is wise, as long as it meets your overnight requirements without dropping below 50% each night.  If other charging sources are available to recharge at higher rates and employed regularly, then less Solar wattage per battery capacity is acceptable without worry.  If every morning the alternator can deliver 50 amps for 30 minutes or longer and then solar can complete the task before 1:30 PM, the batteries will be happy and live a long life.

It is the AGM batteries that get to only 95% or less day after day which will not have a respectable Lifespan, especially considering how much they cost. Flooded batteries also suffer from incomplete charging, but not to the same degree as AGM.

Most people only notice battery capacity loss when it becomes rather severe. Until that point they often unwisely proclaim everything is just fine, or as good as new. Both Lifeline and Concorde sun extender list a Conditioning procedure for when this capacity loss becomes noticeable, and it is similar to an Equalization cycle for a flooded battery, and it requires a special charger which can do the prescribed procedure and also requires constant monitoring of battery temperature.

Like a flooded battery's Equalization cycle, which is very beneficial to battery life, the LifelineAGM 'conditioning cycle is also beneficial.  But also the closer the battery returns to full charge after every discharge, the less EQ or conditioning cycles are required, and the less time they will need to be administered to return the battery to its maximum remaining (not the new) capacity.

So will you regularly implement other high amp charging sources?  If so then you can get away with more battery capacity.

Will your Solar charge controller allow you to set how long the battery is held at Absorption voltage?  This is likely the biggest factor in how long a battery can perform/last when solar is to be the primary recharge source, on both flooded or AGM batteries, but is more important for AGM batteries, not only because they are costlier, but because they are less tolerant of not reaching full charge cycle after cycle.

And time at absorption voltage is the determinant of how close to a true 100% state of charge the batteries get.

Lifeline states than when it takes less than 0.5amps to hold their 100 AH battery at 14.4V then the battery can be considered fully charged.  If the solar controller decides that 90 minutes is enough and drops to float voltage, when 2.5 hours were needed at 14.4v before this threshold was met, then the batteries will lose capacity faster.

My Bluesky 2512i solar controller with the IPN proremote allows me to set both a time or this threshhold before it reverts to the adjustable float voltage.  The absorption voltage is also adjustable.

If one is going to be in places with temperature extremes, then paying extra for a charge controller with a battery temperature sensor, which will allow more Ideal voltages to be applied at temperature extremes, will pay for itself in extended battery life.

My biggest regret with my charge controller choice, was by not paying the 35$ more for the model with the option of adding temperature sensor, and my climate is rather mild.


As far as a large 325 watt panel goes, A slight concern would be aerodynamic wind loading on the vehicle it is installed upon.  Perhaps the particular vehicles aerodynamics would have the slipstream press down directly in the middle of the panel, and maybee on a two lane road, when an 18 wheeler is passing you at 65MPH in the opposite direction, perhaps the down force on the panel would surpass its strength.

Also perhaps some harmonics could develop at speed.  Maybee supporting the middle of the panel's glass with something firm but without sharp edges would negate any fears of severe wind loading on such a physically large panel mounted on a vehicle travelling at highway speeds. 
 
SternWake said:
Luis, Concorde sun extender AGM is the same company that makes Lifeline AGM's which are basically the top DOG cycleable AGM battery available with the thickest positive plates.


One might surmise that AGM batteries designed for Solar applications will be happier with lesser currents compared to the run of the Mill AGM battery.  However I do not know if the Sunextender brand is made any different internally than regular Lifeline AGM.  It could just be a different sticker on the same battery and a higher price.

Checking the Specs it is impossible to tell as they do not list capacity at the standard 20 hour rate like  Lifeline AGM but use the 24 hour rate.  The weights are similar among the same size battery.  I'd guess they are the same

If a 325 watt panel is your choice, then the choice is how much battery capacity to get for it.

If the solar is to be the only recharge source, then I'd say that 200 to 230 AH of AGM capacity is a good match.

Can you live on 100 to 115AH  or less ?

If you somewhat regularly implement other higher amp charging sources like a well wired alternator or 40+ amp plug in charger, then one can have more AGM capacity for the solar wattage.

Capacity requirements in winter are different than in summer, as not only do shorter days mean less time for the sun to recharge, and less current during those those times, but longer nights to discharge the battery more and possibly heavier loads too, like for powering a heating pad.

I just checked the COncorde sunextender PDF and it is basically the same as Lifeline AGM, and they say for repetitive cycling to 50% or less, then a charging source of 0.2C, or 20 amps for a 100 AH battery are required.  Same as Lifeline AGM.


http://www.sunxtender.com/pdfs/Sun_Xtender_Battery_Technical_Manual.pdf

Not meeting the ideal battery manufacturer recommendations is not going to cause the battery bank to fail instantly, but with such expensive batteries one should at least know what is Ideal for them, and draw a line in the sand as to how much effort one is willing to go to meet that Ideal recharge pattern.

Getting them to 100% as often as possible is likely more important than the rate at which they are charged, BUT, more solar per the capacity carried makes it more likely that both requirements are met a higher rate of recharge and a true 100% recharge too.

But obviously one does not want to take the batteries below 50% regularly either.  Some people have large banks and never draw their banks below 75%, and this works fine too, but at this state of charge and higher batteries resist being recharged at high rates.  So while the less deep the discharge cycle, the less abusive it is to the battery, and one has a bigger buffer for bad weather, when the weather does clear up, then too little solar does not meet the thirsty AGM requirement of 0.2C, or 20 amps per 100AH of storage, and getting high amp chargers that can meet the specs is also not a cakewalk in either the shopping or payment department.  

Depleted AGMs can ask for Huge recharging currents from a well wired alternator, much more so than flooded batteries, and as such can overheat an Alternator shortening its life.

So  tailoring your battery capacity to your solar wattage is wise, as long as it meets your overnight requirements without dropping below 50% each night.  If other charging sources are available to recharge at higher rates and employed regularly, then less Solar wattage per battery capacity is acceptable without worry.  If every morning the alternator can deliver 50 amps for 30 minutes or longer and then solar can complete the task before 1:30 PM, the batteries will be happy and live a long life.

It is the AGM batteries that get to only 95% or less day after day which will not have a respectable Lifespan, especially considering how much they cost. Flooded batteries also suffer from incomplete charging, but not to the same degree as AGM.

Most people only notice battery capacity loss when it becomes rather severe. Until that point they often unwisely proclaim everything is just fine, or as good as new. Both Lifeline and Concorde sun extender list a Conditioning procedure for when this capacity loss becomes noticeable, and it is similar to an Equalization cycle for a flooded battery, and it requires a special charger which can do the prescribed procedure and also requires constant monitoring of battery temperature.

Like a flooded battery's Equalization cycle, which is very beneficial to battery life, the LifelineAGM 'conditioning cycle is also beneficial.  But also the closer the battery returns to full charge after every discharge, the less EQ or conditioning cycles are required, and the less time they will need to be administered to return the battery to its maximum remaining (not the new) capacity.

So will you regularly implement other high amp charging sources?  If so then you can get away with more battery capacity.

Will your Solar charge controller allow you to set how long the battery is held at Absorption voltage?  This is likely the biggest factor in how long a battery can perform/last when solar is to be the primary recharge source, on both flooded or AGM batteries, but is more important for AGM batteries, not only because they are costlier, but because they are less tolerant of not reaching full charge cycle after cycle.

And time at absorption voltage is the determinant of how close to a true 100% state of charge the batteries get.

Lifeline states than when it takes less than 0.5amps to hold their 100 AH battery at 14.4V then the battery can be considered fully charged.  If the solar controller decides that 90 minutes is enough and drops to float voltage, when 2.5 hours were needed at 14.4v before this threshold was met, then the batteries will lose capacity faster.

My Bluesky 2512i solar controller with the IPN proremote allows me to set both a time or this threshhold before it reverts to the adjustable float voltage.  The absorption voltage is also adjustable.

If one is going to be in places with temperature extremes, then paying extra for a charge controller with a battery temperature sensor, which will allow more Ideal voltages to be applied at temperature extremes, will pay for itself in extended battery life.

My biggest regret with my charge controller choice, was by not paying the 35$ more for the model with the option of adding temperature sensor, and my climate is rather mild.


As far as a large 325 watt panel goes, A slight concern would be aerodynamic wind loading on the vehicle it is installed upon.  Perhaps the particular vehicles aerodynamics would have the slipstream press down directly in the middle of the panel, and maybee on a two lane road, when an 18 wheeler is passing you at 65MPH in the opposite direction, perhaps the down force on the panel would surpass its strength.

Also perhaps some harmonics could develop at speed.  Maybee supporting the middle of the panel's glass with something firm but without sharp edges would negate any fears of severe wind loading on such a physically large panel mounted on a vehicle travelling at highway speeds. 
 
SternWake said:
Luis, Concorde sun extender AGM is the same company that makes Lifeline AGM's which are basically the top DOG cycleable AGM battery available with the thickest positive plates.


One might surmise that AGM batteries designed for Solar applications will be happier with lesser currents compared to the run of the Mill AGM battery.  However I do not know if the Sunextender brand is made any different internally than regular Lifeline AGM.  It could just be a different sticker on the same battery and a higher price.

Checking the Specs it is impossible to tell as they do not list capacity at the standard 20 hour rate like  Lifeline AGM but use the 24 hour rate.  The weights are similar among the same size battery.  I'd guess they are the same

If a 325 watt panel is your choice, then the choice is how much battery capacity to get for it.

If the solar is to be the only recharge source, then I'd say that 200 to 230 AH of AGM capacity is a good match.

Can you live on 100 to 115AH  or less ?

If you somewhat regularly implement other higher amp charging sources like a well wired alternator or 40+ amp plug in charger, then one can have more AGM capacity for the solar wattage.

Capacity requirements in winter are different than in summer, as not only do shorter days mean less time for the sun to recharge, and less current during those those times, but longer nights to discharge the battery more and possibly heavier loads too, like for powering a heating pad.

I just checked the COncorde sunextender PDF and it is basically the same as Lifeline AGM, and they say for repetitive cycling to 50% or less, then a charging source of 0.2C, or 20 amps for a 100 AH battery are required.  Same as Lifeline AGM.


http://www.sunxtender.com/pdfs/Sun_Xtender_Battery_Technical_Manual.pdf

Not meeting the ideal battery manufacturer recommendations is not going to cause the battery bank to fail instantly, but with such expensive batteries one should at least know what is Ideal for them, and draw a line in the sand as to how much effort one is willing to go to meet that Ideal recharge pattern.

Getting them to 100% as often as possible is likely more important than the rate at which they are charged, BUT, more solar per the capacity carried makes it more likely that both requirements are met a higher rate of recharge and a true 100% recharge too.

But obviously one does not want to take the batteries below 50% regularly either.  Some people have large banks and never draw their banks below 75%, and this works fine too, but at this state of charge and higher batteries resist being recharged at high rates.  So while the less deep the discharge cycle, the less abusive it is to the battery, and one has a bigger buffer for bad weather, when the weather does clear up, then too little solar does not meet the thirsty AGM requirement of 0.2C, or 20 amps per 100AH of storage, and getting high amp chargers that can meet the specs is also not a cakewalk in either the shopping or payment department.  

Depleted AGMs can ask for Huge recharging currents from a well wired alternator, much more so than flooded batteries, and as such can overheat an Alternator shortening its life.

So  tailoring your battery capacity to your solar wattage is wise, as long as it meets your overnight requirements without dropping below 50% each night.  If other charging sources are available to recharge at higher rates and employed regularly, then less Solar wattage per battery capacity is acceptable without worry.  If every morning the alternator can deliver 50 amps for 30 minutes or longer and then solar can complete the task before 1:30 PM, the batteries will be happy and live a long life.

It is the AGM batteries that get to only 95% or less day after day which will not have a respectable Lifespan, especially considering how much they cost. Flooded batteries also suffer from incomplete charging, but not to the same degree as AGM.

Most people only notice battery capacity loss when it becomes rather severe. Until that point they often unwisely proclaim everything is just fine, or as good as new. Both Lifeline and Concorde sun extender list a Conditioning procedure for when this capacity loss becomes noticeable, and it is similar to an Equalization cycle for a flooded battery, and it requires a special charger which can do the prescribed procedure and also requires constant monitoring of battery temperature.

Like a flooded battery's Equalization cycle, which is very beneficial to battery life, the LifelineAGM 'conditioning cycle is also beneficial.  But also the closer the battery returns to full charge after every discharge, the less EQ or conditioning cycles are required, and the less time they will need to be administered to return the battery to its maximum remaining (not the new) capacity.

So will you regularly implement other high amp charging sources?  If so then you can get away with more battery capacity.

Will your Solar charge controller allow you to set how long the battery is held at Absorption voltage?  This is likely the biggest factor in how long a battery can perform/last when solar is to be the primary recharge source, on both flooded or AGM batteries, but is more important for AGM batteries, not only because they are costlier, but because they are less tolerant of not reaching full charge cycle after cycle.

And time at absorption voltage is the determinant of how close to a true 100% state of charge the batteries get.

Lifeline states than when it takes less than 0.5amps to hold their 100 AH battery at 14.4V then the battery can be considered fully charged.  If the solar controller decides that 90 minutes is enough and drops to float voltage, when 2.5 hours were needed at 14.4v before this threshold was met, then the batteries will lose capacity faster.

My Bluesky 2512i solar controller with the IPN proremote allows me to set both a time or this threshhold before it reverts to the adjustable float voltage.  The absorption voltage is also adjustable.

If one is going to be in places with temperature extremes, then paying extra for a charge controller with a battery temperature sensor, which will allow more Ideal voltages to be applied at temperature extremes, will pay for itself in extended battery life.

My biggest regret with my charge controller choice, was by not paying the 35$ more for the model with the option of adding temperature sensor, and my climate is rather mild.


As far as a large 325 watt panel goes, A slight concern would be aerodynamic wind loading on the vehicle it is installed upon.  Perhaps the particular vehicles aerodynamics would have the slipstream press down directly in the middle of the panel, and maybee on a two lane road, when an 18 wheeler is passing you at 65MPH in the opposite direction, perhaps the down force on the panel would surpass its strength.

Also perhaps some harmonics could develop at speed.  Maybee supporting the middle of the panel's glass with something firm but without sharp edges would negate any fears of severe wind loading on such a physically large panel mounted on a vehicle travelling at highway speeds. 

Lots of useful information!
Thank you!

I think solar will be my main source of charging the batteries.

Would you Recommend one 12v or two 6v batteries?

The roof rack is a vantech H2, as shown in pictures a few posts before this, and it will have 5 cross bars under the panel. That should be enough, what do you think?

Thanks!
 
I am not sure 6v AGM batteries in series for 12v has the same advantage over 12v AGM as 6v Golf cart batteries in series have over flooded paralleled 12V batteries.

Lifeline sells 2 group 31 batteries. One is 105 and one 125AH, where a pair of their 6v GC batteries in series has 220AH.

12v batteries have the advantage that is one fails, you can disconnect it and still have 12v. Or say your engine battery completely fails you can take one and put it under the hood and drive away.

I'd think the AGM 6v GC batteries would be more durable than the 12v AGM group31 batteries in deep cycle use but I've read no definitive proof or even opinions, that they are.

Where as with flooded batteries there is no doubt the 6v golf cart batteries win in the cycle life department compared to 12v batteries, all factors being equal.

6v flooded batteries also have the advantage in being easier to recharge fully and to also equalize, compared to 12v flooded Deep cycle batteries, and again I do not know if the 6v AGM's have similar advantages over 12v AGMs in this regard either.

On that center cross bar, perhaps a piece of firm foam adhered in the center one MM below the bottom of the panel will negate any excessive aerodynamic downward force and, stop any harmonics from developing on such a large panel. 5 cross bars are more than enough.

6v has the rather minor advantage of one less battery interconnect cable.
 
SternWake said:
I am not sure 6v AGM batteries in series for 12v has the same advantage over 12v AGM as 6v Golf cart batteries in series have over flooded paralleled 12V batteries.

Lifeline sells 2 group 31 batteries. One is 105 and one 125AH, where a pair of their 6v GC batteries in series has 220AH.

12v batteries have the advantage that is one fails, you can disconnect it and still have 12v. Or say your engine battery completely fails you can take one and put it under the hood and drive away.

I'd think the AGM 6v GC batteries would be more durable than the 12v AGM group31 batteries in deep cycle use but I've read no definitive proof or even opinions, that they are.

Where as with flooded batteries there is no doubt the 6v golf cart batteries win in the cycle life department compared to 12v batteries, all factors being equal.

6v flooded batteries also have the advantage in being easier to recharge fully and to also equalize, compared to 12v flooded Deep cycle batteries, and again I do not know if the 6v AGM's have similar advantages over 12v AGMs in this regard either.

On that center cross bar, perhaps a piece of firm foam adhered in the center one MM below the bottom of the panel will negate any excessive aerodynamic downward force and, stop any harmonics from developing on such a large panel. 5 cross bars are more than enough.

6v has the rather minor advantage of one less battery interconnect cable.

You're very thorough, thank you!
Looks like (if I understood you correctly) I'll be going with two 12v batteries.
If I get the 330w panel, I'll get two 115amp batteries. [emoji106][emoji106]
 
Top