Is this transmission bump an immediate concern?

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protryon

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I have a rebuilt transmission on a 2005 Ford E150. I have a warranty for the rebuild that's still in effect, but the company went out of business. 
Whenever I shift into 4th gear (overdrive) and am going up a steeper incline, the van bumps and rattles vigorously. It doesn't last, and after upshifting into it a few times it won't do it anymore (perhaps the transmission is cold?).

Is this normal? My brother thinks it's just because its a big transmission, but its very concerning. If it's an issue, can it last 2 months? A year?
 
Are you saying that when going up inclines it shifts into and then out of OD several times?
 
Sounds like you're bogging it down going into 4th. Take it out of OD and slow down.
 
It shifts into OD hard then drives in OD just fine. Once it's upshifted a few times up the hill, no issue.
@bardo What do you mean? The OD serves this purpose doesn't it?
Also, I measured my ATF and at cold it was out of range over the hot, so there is way too much. I'll take it into a shop later.
 
Depending on the length and steepness of the incline, you should leave it in 3rd. and drive slower. 4th. gear is too high and it bogs down. Much better for the tranny if it doesn't keep hunting between 3rd. and 4th. OD is better used when the terrain is mostly flat.
 
Some Tx's need to be checked idling in neutral, not sure about yours.

Many rebuild shops, who should really know better, use their bulk universal one size fits all transmission fluid.

One size DOES NOT fit all, even with an additive they such places also brag about.

Dodge overdrive transmissions are extremely finicky about the correct fluid. When mine was just still in warranty, I was getting shuddering from 47 to 60MPH under light accelleration in overdrive/ lock up. It was torque converter clutch chatter. It was caused by the incorrect universal bulk fluid that Aamco used when they rebuilt it.
That was 2002. I had the transmission fluid exchanged with ATF+3 at a dodge dealer and there has not been a shudder since.

NOw ATF+4 is all that is available and backwards compatible and a much better ATF anyway.

So figure out if your TX needs to be checked with the engine running in neutral or not. Also sniff the fluid after wiping dipstick on a white napkin. You want to see pink and no sparklies. You want it to smell sweet and not burnt.

As far as if it is the correct ATF for your vehicle, well that is mroe difficult to acertain, but The cynic in me says that the rebuilders used what was best for their bottom line, not best for the transmission.

If I had not put 10K miles in a year on my freshly rebuilt transmission it would have started shuddering well out of warranty. As it was, Aamco was useless in getting the shuddering sorted out, and I feel nothing but murderous rage whenever I think of those shitheads in Tons River NJ who kept insisting that there was no shuddering.

Also never trust any Iffy lube joint to use the correct fluid, and if they try and sell you a flush, run away screaming.

A 'flush' does not require a pan drop and fliter change. A flush might itself clog the filter. While much of the fluid will remain in the torque converter or other parts with a simple pan drop, getting the old filter out and replaced should be considered paramount. One can then inspect the pan for debris or huge amounts of ferrous sludge on the pan magnet. If the pan is a sludge and glitter fest then there is NO point in replacing any of the fluid or snking any money into it other than a rebuild.
 
The motor might need a tune up, distributor cap and rotor would probably be the first to fix, then spark plugs and wires.
 
Overdrive is for flat level land traveling with no load.

Pulling up a hill, do yourself a favor and shift down to 3. It'll put your motor and trans at a better ratio.
Once you have crested the hill, shift back up to OD.
 
As most in here have pointed out, take the gear selector out of over drive. Put it in drive. Never go up a hill in over drive, as that will make the trans shift back and forth too much, and is not good for your transmission.
 
Did you say you checked the tranny fluid when cold?  Most all transmission fluid checks should be done when warmed up, after having cycled through P,R,D,2,L and back. There's a procedure to check your specific one either online or in the manual.

From a ford 150 site:

"Pro Tip

Before you decide to fill up on transmission fluid, make sure you're checking while the transmission is up to temperature. You can check when it's cold, but transmission fluid will expand with heat, making the warmer reading a more accurate one."

Step 2 - Check your transmission fluid level
A warm engine check is essential to determine the quality of your transmission fluid. Your dipstick will have both cold and hot level indicators. You'll want to test the fluid while it's warm if your truck is in driveable condition. Transmission fluid expands as it heats up, so a "HOT" reading is more accurate.

To get the transmission up to the correct temperature, drive around until the engine is warm. Then drive another mile or so to be sure the transmission is up to temperature too.

Figure 4. Your transmission fluid should be in this range when warm (approx 150°F to 170°F)"
 
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