Is this a good deal? (updated)

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citytravelfotos

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Well, I've seen the van twice now and talked to the owner more about the vehicle. &nbsp;I have to have it inspected by a mechanic, but first, what do you think about the deal so far:<br><br>2000 Ford E-150 conversion van (with high top), 168,000 miles, with a remanufactured engine with 91,000 miles / 4 years old. &nbsp;Price is $5500 (but he said he can go as low as $4500)<br>- the last 91,000 miles were mostly highway miles<br>- according to the vehicle history, the vehicle was a rental vehicle in its first 2 years. &nbsp;The second owner had it for 6 years but left it sitting for the last 2 years. &nbsp;The third owner (which currently has it) had to have a remanufactured engine put in because, as he claims, the vehicle sitting may have damaged the original engine. &nbsp;The current owner has meticulously maintained the vehicle (and having it routinely inspected) for the past 4 years (and has lots of service records to show for it) and has reported no major issues other than a small coolant leak. &nbsp;The current owner also doesn't seem to be one that cuts corners when it comes to powertrain maintenance, having an expensive remanufactured engine put in place in its first year, but also taking the vehicle routinely to a highly rated repair shop (and at other times dealers), and doing a lot of changes to the vehicle according to the recommendations of the mechanics. &nbsp;However, the current owner drove it an average of 30,000 miles a year (once again, mostly highway miles.) &nbsp;The current owner seems honest and trustable, but doesn't know much about car stuff.<br>- The interior is in good condition for the most part.<br>- The van has a green exterior, and the paint quality on the high top is faded with it being really bad down the front, and the paint on the rest of the front of the van is significantly faded. &nbsp;Running boards are in bad shape being damaged enough that one can't stand on it if heavy, and paint is peeling all around the running boards. &nbsp;The running boards on the driver's side are badly damaged due to the van skidding once on black ice and ending up on the side of the road in snow. &nbsp;Paint in the rest of the van is still in good shape (except some of the edges and some scratches on the back side of the vehicle.) &nbsp;Due to the importance of stealth to me, I will have to have the cosmetic issues of the vehicle taken cared of, perhaps as much as having the high top repainted.<br>- Driver side power windows don't work, back door doesn't open from the outside (broken handle), there's a cracked side headlight, cracked grille insert, and the Data Link Connector for an OBD II reader doesn't work.<br>- The van is a high top (with an estimated 66 to 68 inches of interior height), and the conversion was done by the Mark III conversion company, which was for a long time the largest conversion van company (before it went out of business in 2001 due to the shrinking conversion van market) and also seemed to stress high quality and an attention to safety (it's seats were crash tested, which is pretty important.)<br><br>- Manufacturer specific stuff: &nbsp;The engine may be an older 5.4 Triton engine, even if remanufactured, may still have the poorly threaded spark plug problem, which may lead to a spark plug blowout. &nbsp;From what I've read, it's thus recommended to change the spark plugs every 30,000 miles. &nbsp;Problem is that replacing spark plugs is expensive, especially on the Triton engines according to what I've read. &nbsp;Driving this vehicle a lot may necessitate annual spark plug replacements (as opposed to spark plug changes every 100,000 miles.) &nbsp;Note that chevy and dodge vans have their own issues.
 
The nonfunctioning OBDII data link connector and the claim of regular service are sort of in conflict with each other. You can't really do a complete systems check without the OBD data. And if something were to go wrong while you own it, a mechanic wouldn't be able to do diagnostics.<br><br>As for the Triton engine problem, there are actually two aspects of it. One is the problem with the threads, but the other is with the spark plugs. The main body of them was made in two pieces. Sometimes the plugs break in two when you try to remove them, leaving half of the plug stuck in the engine. Special tools and techniques (and a lot of mechanic time) are needed to get that part out. However, Champion makes 1-piece replacement spark plugs. Find out if the spark plugs have been replaced with 1-piece versions.
 
as far as the rebuilt motor goes the price paid by someone doesn't reflect on the quality.&nbsp; most rebuilds use the cheapest parts the shop or rebuilder can get, &nbsp;to maximize profits.&nbsp; rebuilds are usually good for about 100,000 miles,&nbsp; and you are getting close to that.&nbsp; also the obd 2 not working + new motor might have a link.&nbsp; incapability?&nbsp; with that obd2 not working like mr noodly stated how are you going to diagnose problems.&nbsp; i take it you don't live in area that doesn't requires smog inspections because it would not pass.&nbsp; highdesertranger
 
^ They don't use a code reader when you go in for servicing, right? &nbsp;Usually code readers are used if a check engine light is going on.<br><br>Also, I've read some bad reviews on the Champion 1 piece spark plugs, people claiming that it failed on them, one said 5,000 miles after.
 
AZ Dot does have smog inspections, in fact the vehicle last passed emissions inspections about a year ago.
 
I would never buy a car without reading all the OBD codes. &nbsp;I am sure the mechanic your taking it to will tell you the same. &nbsp;If they don't find a new mechanic. While a lot of the codes will have to do with emissions, their all related to engine performance - ie I had an engine that kept flagging a misfire in a particular cylinder, and it turned out that cylinder had a burnt up valve and the head needed replacement - &nbsp;(requiring the engine to be pulled in that vehicle) - so it was a costly repair<br><br>In addition OBD-II will also store&nbsp;sporadic&nbsp;or "pending" codes if you have an advanced code reader (60 bucks at the parts store). These can tell you about possible pending problems.<br><br>Also, you can make the check engine light go out by resetting all the codes, but the code reader will tell you if all the systems have reset themselves if the battery has been pulled and the computer reset - &nbsp;which takes a couple hundred miles or more of driving. &nbsp;This can tell you if the owner is trying to hide something.<br><br>I would call the AZ&nbsp;emissions&nbsp;people since I am sure they will not pass a car that the ODB-II port doesn't work, which begs&nbsp;the&nbsp;question on if the thing worked a year ago, why doesn't it work now? &nbsp; In a year you said the owner drives 30,000 miles. &nbsp;A awful lot can happen to a 12 year old vehicle in 30K miles. &nbsp; Maybe you had a bad code reader? &nbsp;I certainly wouldn't buy anything until I pulled all the codes though - thats for sure.<br><br><br><br><br>
 
if it passed a year ago either it worked then or someone cheated.&nbsp;&nbsp;az has smog checks everywhere?&nbsp; wow even kalifornia doesn't have that.&nbsp; highdesertranger
 
I'm surprised that noone here mentioned that maybe the data link connector is not working because of a burnt fuse? &nbsp;(especially since the data link connector and the cigarette lighter are in the same fuse.) &nbsp;I would think that one would figure what's the problem rather than going out and being all judgmental about it. &nbsp;
 
Too many potential problems and overpriced, IMHO. Walk away.
 
<span style="line-height: 20px;">
"" I would think that one would figure what's the problem rather than going out and being all judgmental about it.
<br><br>I think everyone's point is to read the codes, including pending codes and I/R tests complete prior to buying. &nbsp;<br><br>Could be the fuse, could be the reader your trying to use, could be a bent pin on the connector. &nbsp;I don't think the shop's PC powered readers actually need the power from the connector to read, so that may be an option. &nbsp;Get the codes read, and then decide. &nbsp;&nbsp;</span>
 
We've discussed conversion vans here before - and I have owned one - but I think I would prefer, for van living, to start with a cargo van and do it the way I want. Conversion vans aren't necessarily insulated any better than a car, so if you're heading for colder limes, you may still have to go through the effort of tearing things out to do a proper insulation job.

My best friend's a a retired mechanic, just recently having sold his shop and business, but we have rebuilt several engines together ( though I would not attempt one on my own). He advised never to buy a remanufactured engine. They have very short warranties for a reason. It may be coincidental the PC port isn't functional, but I suspect it has to do with the replaced engine. It may not be an issue, but trying to diagnose a mechanical problem without the port can be a very expensive proposition, because the mechanic will be going through a trial and error method which will cost you unnecessary parts and labor costs. The more complicated the systems, the more possibilities of what might be creating the problem. To me, the vehicle has points of major concern, unless you're a fairly decent mechanic yourself.

Also, at that mileage, there are things will be needing routine replacement. If you're unsure if the engine is the same year/model as the original, how will you be sure about replacement parts?

I, personally, would not go for it. Just my $.02.
 
You asked for opinions, you have received them. I have heard no one being 'judgemental'.

Is it an engine remanufactured by Ford? Or from somewhere else? The rebuilder wasn't mentioned.
 
<EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Geeze I'm glad I don't own any computer controlled engines. Give me mechanical ones anyday. I can usually fix those!<BR>citytravelfoto,<BR>these&nbsp;guys are just helping and doing a great diagnose considering&nbsp;they don't have the vehicle in front of them.<BR></SPAN></STRONG></EM><EM><STRONG><SPAN style="COLOR: #888888">Geoff</SPAN></STRONG></EM>
 
I've kept on saying this, that the vehicle has an engine remanufactured by ford, thus the long warranty. &nbsp;I've had the vehicle checked by a reputable mechanic, and it checks out. &nbsp;The mechanic that inspected the vehicle was fairly confident about the condition of the vehicle. &nbsp;As for the data link connector, the mechanic says it was just a blown fuse and he fixed it and used a code scanner and found no codes.<br><br>I also passed by a body shop, they said that such issues with the van's paint job aren't a big deal, at most its oxidization.<br><br>As for the price, to be honest I've spent so much time over the past year just researching vans is so great that I estimate I have lost quite a lot of money in time that I'm not spending with my business (uploading images for my stock photography business) that whatever savings I would get in getting that perfect deal are miniscule compared to the money lost in not working on my business. &nbsp;As they say in the business world, time is money.
 
The "small coolant leak" is a red flag to me. If it's so well maintained, it seems this would have been taken care of. If he means that the coolant level has regularly gone low, that could mean more than just a leaky hose or some other simpler problem. It could be a leaky head gasket, a crack in the block or the cylinder head....all expensive fixes. A corroded radiator can leak coolant into the transmission via the trans cooler and ruin the transmission. Even if it's "only" a leak in the heater core, that also might&nbsp; be pretty expensive because on some vehicles you practically have to tear the dash apart to replace the core.<br><br>Look for signs of overheating and traces of stop leak in the radiator.<br><br>TBS...it's easy to check the cooling system, so I would ask the mechanic if he's done that with a pressure tester.
 
highdesertranger said:
if it passed a year ago either it worked then or someone cheated.&nbsp;&nbsp;az has smog checks everywhere?&nbsp; wow even kalifornia doesn't have that.&nbsp; highdesertranger

That is a very goof question. 
 Mostly only Maricopa county which is the greater Phoenix area.
I would be suspect of it too.
 
old thread and yes AZ only has smog checks around Phoenix and Tucson. highdesertranger
 
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