Inverter, magical solution, or evil battery destroyer?

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SternWake

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I despise inverters, Yet I have 2 of them, both  a pure sine wave and a larger MSW.
  I view them as a necessary Evil.

Many people assume the inverter is the solution to all their power needs, when transferring stick and brick necessities/luxuries/conveniences to life on Wheels and battery power.

But the inverter is not very efficient, and many times it is employed to power devices which actually run/charge on DC electricity.  So 12vDC battery power is transformed to 115vAC electricity, then the wallwart transformer takes this 115vAC and transforms it to 5vDC, in the cases of USB charged/powered devices.

Much more efficient to transform 12vDC to 5vDC, or in the case of most laptop car adapters, 12vdc to 19.5vDC.

Here, Mainesail measured the current consumed to charge an Ipad.  Long story short, using a DC USB power supply was 27% more efficient than using a 400 watt inverter to power the DC transformer provided with the Ipad.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/ipad_charge_&page=1

Similar savings can be employed by using a '12v car adapter' for their laptops as opposed to an inverter powering the original power transformer, brick/wall wart.  Even charging a Smart phone is significantly more efficient via a 12b to USB transformer, compared to powering an inverter to power the Phones provided 120Vac to 5vDC transformer.

I have measured my laptop consumption powered by inverter vs 'car adapter' and the 27% figure is very close to my observations as well.  It really depends on the task the laptop is performing as to how much more efficient it is.

If you have lots of battery capacity and lots of charging sources available this 27% is certainly no big deal.  But many here are asking a lot from a single house battery with questionable recharging ability, and this 27% can easily make a huge difference in battery longevity, especially if combined with other means to keep the inverter Off.

A problem with 'car adapters' is the Ciggy plugs provided with them.  Ciggy receptacles are a very poor electrical connection.  When asked to pass 5 or more amps they heat up greatly, and the spring steel, which is not a great conductor of electricity also loses some spring, and allows the nipple spring to back the connector out of the socket receptacle.  Then this nipple spring heats up greatly, exerts less pressure on the (+) terminal and the downward spiral becomes unstoppable until something melts.
 
Here a 150 watt inverter tip melted due to the poor connection inherent in Ciggy plugs:  Scroll down a bit:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/hall_of_fail&page=3

Do check out his other 'fails' that are applicable to life on wheels too.

So those requiring USB power to recharge, are much better off acquiring a 12vdc to USB power source.  I very much like the BlueSeas Unit as it can maintain 5.18 volts under a 2.1 amp load, where as some others from to 4.78v under that same load and many USB devices will not attempt to recharge if voltage falls below 4.75v.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/1016/Dual_USB_Charger_Socket

These do have a slight parasitic draw even when powering/charging nothing.  So, perhaps ones which fit into a ciggy receptacle could be a better choice as they can be  pulled out just enough until the nipple contact breaks the circuit:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=usb+car+adapter&rh=i:aps,k:usb+car+adapter

I have a few of these, but they cannot charge my phone as fast as the Blueseas unit can.  Even 3.1 amps at 5v is only 15.3 watts, and this will not present an issue for even the worst of 12v Ciggy plug receptacles.

It is not easy to escape the ciggy plug 12v connector.  They are too Widespread and common, but they really are an extremely poor connector.

The stock vehicle wiring leading to them is usually way too long and way too thin, so lots of voltage drop can occur even before the ciggy plug receptacle.

When voltage drop occurs, and the device being powered requires the same total wattage, then more amperage has to flow.  More amperage causes more voltage drop, which causes more amperage to flow to fill that gap, causing more heating, more voltage drop, and round and round it goes till some magic smoke gets up and goes.

Some devices, like lighting or fans will just slow down/ or dim when the voltage reaching them is lower.  If an inverter is being powered, it actually has to work harder to transform 10.8v to 115Vac than it would if it was fed 12.2v through thicker copper circuitry.

I used to have a 12v mattress heating pad, and when I cut off the ciggy plug in favor of 30 amp Anderson powerpoles it received a full extra Volt.  It heated up significantly faster, and required less input to maintain temp, and overall used less battery power, as no battery power was wasted heating up the Ciggy plug connector interface.

Back to the inverters, they consume current just turned on powering nothing.  My 800watt MSW consumes 0.62a turned on powering nothing, My 400 watt PSW inverter consumes 0.24a turned on powering nothing.

This is not much, but over the course of an Hour, my 12v compressor fridge consumes on average about 0.75a per hour.

So my 800 watt MSW inverter, turned on, powering nothing, uses nearly as much battery power as my 12v compressor fridge does to keep my food at 35F in that same hour.

So often on this forum someone decides to save a few hundred $$ buying a 100$ AC dorm fridge and powering it with an inverter.

But then one has to buy/already own a large enough inverter to power it, likely 1200 watts just to handle the start up surge.  The one also requires more battery capacity, and more recharge capacity to power it.  There are also lots of reports that even the most efficient dorm fridges double their claimed electrical consumption.  A dorm fridge also requires a method to secure it to the vehicle and a method to keep the door from swinging open during hard right or left turns.  There are also reports of dorm fridges not doing well in a high vibration environment, like a travelling vehicle.

So once again, the inverter might be viewed as a magical solution to powering household devices in 12vDC rolling world, but in the end it really just becomes a more expensive, less efficient option, a failure waiting to happen when Murphy dictates the time is right to really stick it to you.

Often there is no option but to use an Inverter, as no 12v device exists for the application.  In such cases proper cabling to the Battery are the best ways to reduce inefficiency.  Use short fat cables to battery from inverter, and Use AC household extension cords to reach more distant 115Vac appliances.  A huge Inverter powering a Tiny load is less efficient  than a smaller inverter powering that smaller load.

Also a common occurrence is having limited battery capacity, but then hooking a huge inverter to it, as More is always better, has been beaten into the consumer mindset. a 3000 watt inverter on a single group31 battery, and trying to power a 3000 watt load, is like putting a half gallon of gas in a dragster which requires 7 gallons to reach the 1/4 mile timer.

It really is so much easier and cheaper to conserve electricity than it is to have enough capacity and recharging sources to not worry about efficiency.  This is so often overlooked, and the inverter makes it so easy to overlook.
 
SternWake said:
I despise inverters, Yet I have 2 of them, both  a pure sine wave and a larger MSW.
  I view them as a necessary Evil.

Well put! A very good post and important reading for all of us.
 
Inverters don't kill batteries, people do with misuse or improper set up.

Using a inverter for a job that could easily be handled at 12v will cycle your battery more. More and deeper cycles shorten battery life.

Ever use a cigarette lighter in a car? Push it in and it pops back out a short time later ready to light a cigarette. That's what they were intended for, not long term, high amp loads. I know my trucks have cigarette lighters and 12v power ports. It wouldn't be hard to look and see if the power ports have heavier wiring.

The easiest way to know if the wiring or plug is suspect is to feel it. Is it hot? Then something isn't right. Heat comes from trying to ram too much power through too small of a wire or bad connections. The resistance causes heat and uses your power to do it too. The heat causes more resistance which causes more heat and so on. That's how wires melt down.

The biggest problem is people don't want to have to get an electrical education just to play with their toys just like they don't want a degree in dentistry to brush their teeth. We live in a era of plug part A into part B and you are off. With manufactures building as cheap as the can get away with and advertisers being allowed to spew the snake oil they do, it's no wonder people can't understand why the giant inverter on the tiny battery just wont run a building.
 
"it's no wonder people can't understand why the giant inverter on the tiny battery just wont run a building". dang jim, it won't. highdesertranger
 
"it's no wonder people can't understand why the giant inverter on the tiny battery just wont run a building". dang jim, it won't. highdesertranger

Not unless you have your 10w solar panels plugged in. ;)
 
I've got my house battery charged by my alternator, and another one that'll hook up to solar. I want to route my shore power cable indoors to connect to my inverter to power things like the microwave. While that battery and inverter are providing AC power, will I be able to utilize DC power? If I turn the converter off, will I be able to, say, use DC for the lights, water pump, etc, while simultaneously nuking a burrito?
 
Remember when you convert 12v to 120v it draws 10 times the amps from the 12v source (about 12 times when the inefficiency of the inverter is added). So to answer your question, if the microwave draws say 1500 watts (surging to over 2,000 watts on start-up) it will draw about 150 amps to run and over 200 to start. This is a huge current draw, requiring heavy wires from your inverter directly to your battery. Then add in all your other 12v amps you will be using to see your total amperage draw. I doubt 2 batteries would be sufficient except for the briefest time. You didn't say what batteries you have, but if they are not close to size, type and age I would not connect them together in parallel, as your older battery will likely drag your newer battery down. Let's say you purchased a pair of 6v golf cart batteries for your house battery bank (leaving your starter battery in place). With the current draw of the microwave alone, a pair of golf cart batteries will run about 20 minutes till it's 50% discharged and needs recharging. A single 12v marine/rv type battery will only run about 5-6 minutes at this load, due to the Peukert effect. So for a 1 minute burrito reheat it might b OK, as long as the battery is relatively new and the current doesn't drop too much due to the battery's internal resistance. I recommend a low resistance AGM type or ideally a Lithium Phosphate for this application to minimize the Peukert effect or just go with a large conventional battery bank (say 4 GC-2 Golf cart batteries) to extend your microwave run time.

Chip
 
If I remember right, two 6 volts will have a issue running a microwave due to the internal resistance. Our original 8-D was a starting battery and made to give it up when called on. It could run the microwave on it's own and with the solar attached we had it running 10 minutes before the voltage under load dropped to under 12v.
 
Again, it's not the inverter or load that kills the batteries. It's the improper set up that does. Are there limits to how much battery and solar you can have? Then there are limits on what you can run with them. Bad wiring or connections make those limits even more restrictive.

Does cycling the battery shorten it's life? Yes it does. Each manufacturer will tell you haw many cycles you should get if you drain them down to say 80%, how many at 50%. You can add battery so that they cycle less or like I did last year, use the solar to assist the battery or cover the loads all together. Either way, fewer and shallower cycles are better for the batteries. (as is proper recharging)

Doing everything you can to make the batteries last longer is great as long as you remember the batteries are there to serve us. I may not abuse my bank but I'm not sitting in the dark to make it last a extra day either.

I know comparing our systems to what you can fit in or on a van is apples vs oranges but that said we use what we want, when we want with few limitations. I keep most loads at as small of a wattage as I can find while still being functional. I'd love to find a 500w microwave but on the last trip we only used our 900w once. Using it is nothing compared to the 5000 BTU air conditioner. The load is smaller but you don't run a microwave for hours at a time either.

So it is all about balance. This system in the conditions we see can handle the loads we put on it. It is designed to cycle the batts as little as possible, which is good because they cost a fortune to replace. ( around $2000)
 
I have 380 watts and 4 golf carts and my system is very happy with the microwave. My 700 watt cooking power micro draws abut 1200 watts.

But that's only 2 amps a minute and most of my burns are under 6 minutes so it has almost no impact on my batteries.

I wired my 2000 wattt Pure SW with 2/0 wire and it's all a very happy camper.
Bob
 
My two batteries are not wired in parallel. I have the one that came with the RV, which powers the 12v stuff, and I have another, non-connected 125ah battery charged by solar, but I want to run my shore power cable indoors to connect to it via my inverter. I'm not worried about draw, just wondering if there's any reason why I wouldn't be able to use both batteries simultaneously to power different things.
 
You may confusing an inverter and converter.

An inverter turns 12 volt into 110 volt. Why would you want to hook it up to shore power? the only way it can be hooked up to 110 volt is if you hooked up a battery charger to the battery and charged it as the inverter drew power. That would be a very wasteful way to do things. Better to hook the 110 volt items to shore power directly through a power strip and extension cord.

A converter takes 110 shore power and passes it through to the 110 plugs in the RV and also charges the RV house batteries and powers the 12 volt outlets.

If you have shore power and don't have a converter and you want to run a microwave, just use an extension cord and a power strip.
Bob
 
I don't intend to plug into shore power at all. I intend to have my inverter act as a "shore" power source. So if I plug my shore cable into my inverter, what is my coach battery doing? Will any power be drawn from it or will all 12v appliances use the power being supplied by my inverter? I believe it's possible to turn my converter off. Would this prevent my inverter from powering the 12v sockets and charging my coach battery, allowing me to draw 12v power from said coach battery?
 
By coach battery do you mean the starting battery or the house battery that powers your inverter, 12v lights appliances, etc.?

If you plug your shore power cable into your inverter it will draw 12v from your house battery only and convert it to 120v ac power. Your engine starting battery is isolated from this to prevent you from draining it excessively, so it is unable to start your vehicle. I have never seen a converter wired to recharge a starting battery. Though I guess one could wire it that way, that is what your alternator is for.

Chip
 

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