Insulation

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Hmm...you go through 20 lbs a week?  Interesting info to have...puts my worrying over my 400 watt heater and my 29 dollar electric bill into perspective.
 
Yeah its roughly about $20 dollars each week to fill the tank. I also keep 100lbs of propane in reserve for storms and such. Interestingly enough, we got about 35cm of snow here this week and although the temps haven,t warmed up (-20 to -25) it feels warmer. I suppose its because of the insulating factor of fresh snow.
 
oldsoul said:
Interestingly enough, we got about 35cm of snow here this week and although the temps haven,t warmed up (-20 to -25) it feels warmer. I suppose its because of the insulating factor of fresh snow.
<br /><br />&nbsp;Nahhh.. it's called hypothermia. Was +10 here in Abby today.
 
I have reflectix taped to all my walls_burned out conversion van which means bare metal walls (please excuse typos when they occur) I plan on adding pink foam board. I was thinking about the foil backed but they absorb water from what iwas told (and nothing is totally waterproof in this old&nbsp;G20) on top of the pink board i was thinking about gluing material of some sort (will not have wood walls_hand unable to use saw) but material is hard to keep stains off. I was actually thinking about huge rolls of contact paper_yuk_in wood grain pattern. Choices are limited when i get into a mind freeze or panic doing anything new. I figure i will simply wedge them in and then pull out to do contact paper later_its going&nbsp;to be a test run. I DO NOT have window moldings _ so around the window areas that i cut out i will use some sort of rubber or foam that typically fits over pipes _the type comes in tube shapes and has a slit in it. I have heard that contact paper_yuk again_ comes off when vertical so heavy spray glue on top of board will have to do...and i will pin prick the imperfection bubble holes i know will come up. will also be going the same to my door panels as what i did pull from the salvage yard loves stains and the water and snow hit them&nbsp; when i open the doors. Which i had the ability to use a wood saw and doors pretty but i don't. I would LOVE to find white vinyl contact (i found some for my son yrs ago that looked like raw hide_not flat) or white wood grain but i have been to every store and home depot type store to date and only the nasty brown wood grain comes up.<br /><br />NOTE: wow_spell check on a forum_KUDOS to whom ever set this site up <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">
 
&nbsp;Get the white polystyrene foam (4x8' sheets), foil &amp; plastic backed if possible, since they are less than 1/2 the price of the pink foam and are waterproof. Then, with the money you've saved,get the Coroplast sheets for your walls and you can use double sided foam monting tape to hold it on, with a few panhead screws to make sure. Waterproof, colourful, easy to clean, simple/easy to instal (cuts with a knife), and super light. ..Willy.&nbsp;
 
Hey Willy,<br />I hear an inch of coroplast / corrugated plastic can give you something like 6.7 R value with the 'flutes' running throught the material that trap air. With that being said; would you suggest 2mm or 4mm for simply the vapor barrier after the 1/2" to 3/4" polystyrene (white Styrofoam)? <br /><br />I also wonder if this stuff is printable or what colors don't show those lines from the 'flutes' running down the inside of the material - i would assume black but I've only ever seen this stuff used in FedEx totes.<br /><br />I also wonder is 'the more you bend it' = 'the more the lines will show'? I'm probably worrying about ascetics too much but it's suppose to last for 7-10 years so I want this to be pleasant to look at.<br /><br />PS: for anyone looking for coroplast / corrugated plastic; I think I found a cheap site for it. Be wary of the shipping fee's...<br />http://corrugatedplastics.net/CorrugatedPlasticSheets.html
 
I've got the 4 mm stuff, but that's all they sell at the hardware stores here. Should be a number of things that stick to it, since a lot of signs are made outta the stuff. So, it looks like I add about R1.6 by using it on the cieling, and probably more with the stuff on the windows (vertical usually has a higher R value AFAIK). One thing to remember is that you can always cover it with something if, down the line, you become disenchanted with its' looks. ..Willy.&nbsp;
 
On the subject of; Corrugated Plastic / Coroplast / Polystyrene~ Flutes<br /><br />I ventured out to my local home depot and found it was just as much as wood paneling; granted is was so light I could balance the big 36"x72" on my hand and it gave enough 'bend' in doing such that I can tell it would curve with the van walls perfectly... there must be a cheaper place to get this stuff but I have been unsuccessful in finding a link/site to get it for a better price where the FREIGHT doesn't screw you over...<br /><br />Anyone know a good CHEAP site / place to get this stuff?<br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://oi48.tinypic.com/fnhhqg.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://oi45.tinypic.com/i2o7e9.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://oi48.tinypic.com/14l3eqe.jpg" class="bbc_img" />
 
&nbsp;One thing you've gotta take into account when comparing it to wood paneling is that you don't have to spend money on paint, paint brush, solvent (if using alkyd), and possibly a separate vapour barrier. It also won't 'wick' up moisture like wood and won't rot. It DOES seem a bit pricey there, but I'm up here in Canada and can't really help re. shopping 9unless you were to come up to Abbotsford and then it'd be 'game on'). ..Willy.
 
Thank you for that info on the color and board/foil backed. I have yet to find ANY white Styrofoam board with foiled backing on any side_which means in my hand it would crumble <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> As far as the coroplast_researching hardware stores here in chi-town and no luck so far. But i love your input/ideas :0 so again_thank you. Will continue me search before it drops into the 20's again. note_i will not go for a place that ships the coroplast because i know what it will amount to. AGAIN thank you for the input/ideas. Also of note_this van will be heading south when i get her down and following the weather. One fellow said in a post long time back that he rid his van of all insulation and simply painted the inside because the heat would leave it better rather than it remaining a sweat box_but who couldn't use a good sweat lodge <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle">
 
Fine in theory.. sux in practice. Insulation and a solar fan setup beats buddy's idea hands down.
 
I gotta say, Willie, you're a wealth of information and ideas.&nbsp; I appreciate you, amigo.
 
&nbsp;You're welcome. Should see me when I'm in the backwoods.. won't STFU. Going a bit stir crazy ATM, waiting for some medical stuff to be done and X-mas to be over. Then, regardless of snow or whatnot, I'm gonna GTFO and enjoy the outdoors. ..Willy.
 
regarding the required gap for installing reflectix, I'd think it easy to cut it into 1/2" wide strips and glue these to the panels you intend to put over windows, thus maintaining a good space between them and the foil backing. The same would work for panels installed on walls, would it not, or am I missing something obvious here? Gotta' know before I get to that phase of my own build!
 
Can't see why not. Wouldn't&nbsp; worry too much about the windows, since it's generally not a large area and not much pressing against it. If you use Coroplast it's pretty stiff, so no worries there. As an aside, in my old Vanguard camper I've put in a sub-ceiling w. that reflectix clone stuff &amp; Coroplast, w. Coroplaast on the windows, and have been heating it with&nbsp; 1000W heater. Temps have dipped below freezing and I've been toasty warm. Heater spends more time off than on too. ..Willy.
 
Willy said:
...and have been heating it with&nbsp; 1000W heater. Temps have dipped below freezing and I've been toasty warm. Heater spends more time off than on too. ..Willy.
<br><span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif;"><strong>That's amazing, Willy! You must've done a great job insulating!&nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/thumb.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"></strong></span><br><span style="font-family: 'comic sans ms', sans-serif;"><strong>How big is the camper? Or did I miss it in the posts somewhere here?<br><br></strong></span>
 
&nbsp;It's an older 9 1/2' Vanguard camper. If you check the posts I've authored, as opposed to answered, you'll see a couple with the camper.. one dealing with the insulated sub-ceiling I put in and another with my solar/solar fan setup. Might even be more, but I forget.&nbsp; ..Willy.
 
Okay, here's my situation, everyone. I just traded my Malibu for this beautiful (and yes, I know, it's not white) 2001 Ford E350 extended converted camper van. So, this is officially my first home! I'm preparing now to go full timing. The guy I bought it from had it outfitted for a very temperate climate just for short-term camping and so, the insulation isn't finished. In fact, it's this van from this forum:<br><br>https://vanlivingforum.com/post/2001-E350-extended.-camper-van-6081598<br><br>I'm giving you all a look at her from You Tube here:<br><br><br><br>May I have your advice about what to do next? I have literally NO experience with handyman work, though I've been doing my best reading as much as I could up to this point about insulating. I've even been watching You Tube videos on the topic. <br><br>I MIGHT have a handyman and handywoman that can help me insulate (and hopefully help drill a whole for the 20 lb. propane tube) before I head west (or at least coach me as to how to insulate) to start my full timing experience. But, I"m wondering, if they back out on me, and I'm left to do this by myself, what I should do next here for insulating her better. I know it will be challenging boondocking in 10 degrees or less weather, but if I leave in the next three weeks, that's what I may be faced with.<br><br>So, here's the video I put together so you can really see what I"m talking about. I learn so much better when I see something instead of only reading about, so, I hope you enjoy having a look at her too. I've dubbed her the "Green Queen". Thanks so much, all!<br><br>Gloria
 
&nbsp;Okay, first thing to do is seal up that ceiling and the walls. That open cell stuff in the walls MUST have a vapour barrier on the inside, or water will condense there and cause mold/rust. Same for the ceiling, since moist air is getting past the insulation. Now, you can buy Reflectix, or that other stuff which I can't remember the name of, but is exactly the same and 2/3&nbsp; the price. Staple it up on the side edges of the ceiling strips and tape to the walls to seal them. I'd then add 1x2" strips to the wall studs (over the Reflectix) to which you can attach your interior wall and maintain that airspace. Then.. Coroplast walls/ceiling; I'd get white, but whatever suits you will do.&nbsp; You can apply the Coroplast right over the windows and if you frame around it, can even make large 'flaps' allowing you to open the windows 'n such. Apply 2 sided mounting tape along the edges of the Coroplast, or just apply a bead of clear sealant (silicone or equivalent). Mount the Coroplast using 3/4" panhead finishing nails (I used the white painted ones to match the colour of my ceiling). ..Willy.
 
Willy,<br><br>Thank you for your input. I have some friends that live in my community that MAY have time to help me insulate the van before I leave. If I can't get it done before I leave here (which I will do my best in my power to make happen, even if I'm hanging in there doing it myself and asking for coaching from them), I just will need to hang out at my parents house in MN through the rest of winter, until I can finish it in the spring. I don't know if I can attempt to do this on my own outside in the mid-west in zero temperatures or not, though. It's pretty bearable temperatures to work in now here in WV as we're in a "warm spell". If I run out of time, I may need to wait to finish this and hope I can come across Bob and friends to help me out and or at least stand there and tell me what to do LOL. <br><br>Also, if push comes to shove, would it be "safe" for me to journey out west with the van as is in the video, with just a heater (maybe an electric blanket) and leave this job for when I'm not in such a rush? I think as long as I don't live in it full time until the insulation is done (at least in freezing temperatures), it could wait. I may have to wait, unfortunately.<br><br>Here are a few questions.&nbsp;<br><br>You said: "That open cell stuff in the walls MUST have a vapour barrier on the inside, or water will condense there and cause mold/rust." Basically, I can't have any metal showing then, is that correct? There is wiring already installed though for the battery inverter system. I'm not sure if I'll be able to insert reflectix around that or not. What about using the spray foam, Great Stuff to fill in all the gaps and cracks in the ceiling stead of the reflectix stuff? Then, I think I need to lay reflectix along all the walls of the van, right? Should I fill all the holes (of which I was hoping to hang stuff from) with the spray foam first?&nbsp;<br><br>As far as the Coroplast, is that a plastic paneling type material? I was hoping to eventually get a nice wood paneling to overlay everything. I think that would make it look beautiful. I just want the bare minimum right now to get me down the road. Would the Coroplast (or wood paneling or whatever I use), be an important insulation aspect? I was hoping it wasn't. I was thinking it was more cosmetic to make 'er look pretty.<br><br>Thanks again!<br>&nbsp;
 

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