insulating ribs
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highdesertranger
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when I did van conversions we never did anything to the ribs. about the best idea I have heard of is filling the rib with packing peanuts. don't use the type that dissolves in water. highdesertranger
VJG1977
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How about using bean bag refill. Particularly for the side ribs. Tape over the lower openings and pour in working up to the top.
Comfort Research UltimaX Beans Refill, 100 Liters
Product Description:
For your bean bag chair that has flattened with use, more filling to restore it to its original fluff. Refill bag includes 100 liters. Each 100-percent virgin polystyrene bean is the approximate size of a large pea.
Other brands have smaller size.
Comfort Research UltimaX Beans Refill, 100 Liters
Product Description:
For your bean bag chair that has flattened with use, more filling to restore it to its original fluff. Refill bag includes 100 liters. Each 100-percent virgin polystyrene bean is the approximate size of a large pea.
Other brands have smaller size.
highdesertranger
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yep bean bag balls should work too. especially those big ones. highdesertranger
AimlessWanderLust
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Here's what we did, it was pretty quick, easy, and cheap: https://aimlesswanderlust.wordpress.com/2014/09/09/insulating-the-van-part-5/
Summary: Vertical ribs were stuffed with pink fiberglass insulation. Floor and ceiling ribs were spray foamed. The spray foam was a little slow going, being very careful not to over-fill or make a mess, but really not bad.
Cheers!
Summary: Vertical ribs were stuffed with pink fiberglass insulation. Floor and ceiling ribs were spray foamed. The spray foam was a little slow going, being very careful not to over-fill or make a mess, but really not bad.
Cheers!
If the packing peanuts, beanbag beans, etc are 'open cell' foam, condensation will be held in those 'open' cells. I also don't like the pink fiberglass stuffing either...not a barrier to moisture...that's why houses have moisture barriers and vents to be able to 'breathe'. The 'foam in a can' has been discussed numerous times and is definitely a no-no....think English Muffin nooks and crannies holding the melted butter!
Closed cell foam kits are available, but the smallest size I've found is for 200 board feet (200 sq. ft. 1 inch thick) and about $305 - 350.
Too expensive just to do ribs.
http://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsulation/order-products/spray-foam-insulation-kits/
I'd just leave 'em be.
Closed cell foam kits are available, but the smallest size I've found is for 200 board feet (200 sq. ft. 1 inch thick) and about $305 - 350.
Too expensive just to do ribs.
http://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsulation/order-products/spray-foam-insulation-kits/
I'd just leave 'em be.
AimlessWanderLust
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Regarding vapor barrier: We have everything sealed up with foil tape. Almost 2 years of fiberglass batting and spray foam in our van, zero problems with moisture being held in (as far as we can tell).
I mean, if moisture is that much of a concern, you would have to also worry about the van seats too, being giant foam sponges, and I haven't seen anybody worry about those.
The key is to try and mitigate moisture build up by opening windows or vents, and when moisture does build up, air out the van during the day and let everything dry.
I mean, if moisture is that much of a concern, you would have to also worry about the van seats too, being giant foam sponges, and I haven't seen anybody worry about those.
The key is to try and mitigate moisture build up by opening windows or vents, and when moisture does build up, air out the van during the day and let everything dry.
GotSmart
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The van body, being a steel sheet is a vapor barrier. What is wanted is to keep the moisture from getting into the insulation. In other words a barrier at the second level of construction, under the top covering is what is called for. (Just under the visible wall.)
So many people speak foolishly, and nod wisely. :huh:
Please read this, and stop using spray foam which will cause rust cancer on any metal part it touches. That fancy rib spray foam has caused a death sentence for any vans it is used on.
VENTILATION! Remove the moist air before it causes a problem.
http://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
So many people speak foolishly, and nod wisely. :huh:
Please read this, and stop using spray foam which will cause rust cancer on any metal part it touches. That fancy rib spray foam has caused a death sentence for any vans it is used on.
VENTILATION! Remove the moist air before it causes a problem.
http://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
Canine
Well-known member
I wish I could find that web page that specifically addressed insulated metal tubes, which is pretty much like the ribs you refer to. The web page was scientific, objective, and authoritative. It wasn't some guy trying to figure some stuff out in his/her back yard.
Because of the strong conductive nature of metal, insulating the inside of a metal tube, therefore eliminating convective losses, does almost nothing to overcome the conductive and radiant losses due to the wall of the tube (or the rib in your case). Insulating the inside of a tube (rib) to stop convective losses is so insignificant as to be completely laughable. It does nothing except take more of your time and money. Leaving the air space inside the rib is the best way to go.
If you want to make a big difference in the R value of your van wall, put a sheet of rigid foam board over the rib. Eliminating that thermal break will actually do something to stop the conductive and radiant heat transfer of the wall of the rib.
Because of the strong conductive nature of metal, insulating the inside of a metal tube, therefore eliminating convective losses, does almost nothing to overcome the conductive and radiant losses due to the wall of the tube (or the rib in your case). Insulating the inside of a tube (rib) to stop convective losses is so insignificant as to be completely laughable. It does nothing except take more of your time and money. Leaving the air space inside the rib is the best way to go.
If you want to make a big difference in the R value of your van wall, put a sheet of rigid foam board over the rib. Eliminating that thermal break will actually do something to stop the conductive and radiant heat transfer of the wall of the rib.
