If your vehicle has a tilt, do you...

[T.he I.nvisible M.an]

The controller kit looks something like this ...

• 
  <b>Air Lift Load Controller II</b>

[img=600x400]http://b.cdnbrm.com/images/products/large/Suspension/airlift_load_controller2.jpg[/img]
Features

• Keep your rig plumb and level without getting out of your cockpit with your Air Lift Load Controller II
• When weight's piled on, freight's taken off, or roads become choppy, you can add or vent pressure for the perfect balance of firmness and ride quality
• Your Air Lift Load Controller II comes in a single or dual system:
• Single Gauge Load Controller II: lets you fill both rear shocks simultaneously for even front-to-rear leveling—ideal for pickups with light trailers, heavy vans and SUVs, and cars with rear coil springs
• Dual Gauge Load Controller II: allows either simultaneous front-to-rear leveling or side-to-side adjustments—great for pickups with campers and motorhomes with rear air springs
• The gauge(s) on your Load Controller II give(s) you real-time readings of your Air Lift Leveling System's pressure
• Protects your Air Lift Leveling System—built-in low pressure sensor automatically adds extra air to your shocks if they fall below the minimum safe level
• Your Load Controller II uses Air Lift's exclusive wiring harness for an easier installation
• Kit comes complete with all necessary parts, including an air compressor, dash panel, wiring, hardware and detailed installation instructions
• Backed by a 2-year "unlimited mileage" warranty

Description
Without an on board air system, making adjustments to your air shocks means breaking out your air compressor, crawling around under your rig, and wasting a lot of time. Plus, you can't adjust the shocks once you start rolling. The practical solution to these pesky problems is the Load Controller II. It puts the power to fine-tune your air shocks right at your fingertips.

When road conditions vary, weight shifts around, or freight changes, you can make on-the-fly corrections to your leveling system with the Load Controller II. Simply press the switch, watch the gauge go up or down, and enjoy the ideal ride height. The standard single setup gives you total front-to-back control, and the dual kit allows either side-to-side tuning or front-to-back control. Plus, the integrated low pressure sensor prevents under inflation and premature wear.

From the exclusive wiring harness to the air compressor, your Load Controller II comes complete for a painless installation. Includes a 2-year warranty.
Notes

• Mounting your Load Controller II's air compressor does require some drilling.

And now you know ...

T.I.M.

 

[highdesertranger]

I thought of air bags to but on this set up he needs the front higher or the rear lower, so air bags in the rear will not help. that leaves the front. they do make air bags to go inside the coil springs however there is no way it's going to lift it enough. a new set of front springs might help but without seeing the vehicle it's impossible to tell so I didn't recommend them. highdesertranger

 

[flying kurbmaster]

my kurbmaster is a one ton it sits quite a bit higher in the back not sure how much but enough to notice it when I am inside and on level ground. Even loaded with all my stuff it makes very little difference, even with my scooter on the back it doesn't level out. I don't find it much of a bother it seems easy enough to find level parking usually on a slight slope. My bed runs from front to back so I just sleep with my head at the higher end when I can;t level, a gimball stove would be nice, I got my antennas out for one with an oven. Your cube may have more slope. I doubt with all your stuff in it that it will make a difference unless you plan on carrying a ton of water.

 

[LeeRevell]

Easiest would be to make the bed frame pivot on the high end and have elevation blocks, maybe in one inch increments.  Adjust to suit where you park.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

If you've got a truck with an extremely heavy duty suspension, designed to haul a LOT of weight, one possibility would be to pull a leaf out of each side's spring pack.  I would only do something like that when the build is totally finished, and would have the truck weighed on scales, and then consult a spring place about doing it.  They will be able to figure out which leaf to remove.  The truck will probably end up riding a lot better, too, once you have the suspension "tuned" for the actual weight it is carrying.

Regards
John

 

[Trout]

Yup what they all said.

reduce the amount the springs are lifting, then add in the shocks or airbags to bring it back up to where you need it.

Then again buying more tools always seems appropriate.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Then again buying more tools always seems appropriate.

He could always become a travelling anvil salesman, sounds like his truck is already set up for it . . .

Regards
John

 

[highdesertranger]

He could always become a travelling anvil salesman, sounds like his truck is already set up for it . . .

or he could put a CA king water bed in there. lol. highdesertranger

 

[DannyB1954]

He could always become a travelling anvil salesman, sounds like his truck is already set up for it . . .

or he could put a CA king water bed in there.  lol.  highdesertranger

Heat it with engine water. Great thermal mass winter heater. Summertime, You may need to run it through a water cooler.

 

[ZoNiE]

X2 on the airbags. You can also use simple air shocks for the rear axle on many vehicles. A lot less expensive. I put them on a mini truck and a minivan to level it back up when hitching up a trailer.

An airbag system can cost $1-2K.
Air shocks can cost $100 per set give or take.

You can run the fill line(s) into the van and use a small portable air compressor to level the van, if you want the cheapest solution.

 

[DannyB1954]

The OP problem is the rear is too high. adding more lift isn't what they are looking for. I don't know that they make air shocks for the front. One down side to air shocks is that the frame mounts for the shocks are not designed to be weight bearing. They are designed to handle the resistance that the shock offers. That being said, on my truck I use shocks with helper springs around them and the mounts appear to be sufficient. Perhaps this is because I have only seriously loaded it several times and not on a regular basis.

 

[LeeRevell]

The weight bearing issue is critical.  Years ago in my Musclecar Madness, I tried two different brands of air shocks on the back of my '75 Firebird.  Both failed before long, and I did not have them maxxed out.  That turned me off to airshocks.
The way to do the front lift is to use slightly stiffer and longer coil springs to get a minimal to moderate lift, without having to monkey wit the steering.   Cost should not be too bad.

 

[highdesertranger]

please everyone stay away from air shocks. air shocks cause locust infestations. like others have said the front needs to go up or the back needs to go down. so the only thing you can do on the back is suspension work. on the front, being a 2wd GM there is probably not enough travel to raise it enough. by putting new springs in the front might get it closer but without seeing it I can't tell, so it would be irresponsible for me to suggest that. I don't like to make suggestion that "MIGHT" work because if someone pays the money and it doesn't work they blame you. rightfully so you just wasted their money. the right thing to do is to go to a reputable suspension place and ask them or live with it. highdesertranger