I think I have found the one!

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Many cases of 'warped' rotors are not in fact warped.  It can be from uneven brake pad deposits.

Uneven brake pad deposits can happen when one brakes hard, heating the pads and rotors, and then when stopped, keeps the brakes clamped tightly, much tighter than is required to hold the vehicle stopped.  This then transfers some friction material to the rotor which grabs harder each rotation and leaves that pulsing feeling.

If I have to brake hard and fast and late and then remain stopped, I will use the E brake to hold the vehicle stopped at the red light.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths



That said, rotors today are mostly all chinese made.  I had a pair of Duralast rotors whose race seats were machined too deeply, causing the tapered roller bearings to ride too close to each other, with not enough room for tightening properly.  Also the races were spinning in the bores.

Those 50$ each duralast rotors cost me $150 when i replaced them with Brembo., not to mention the aggravation and labor.

It is also possible that uneven lug nut and over torquing has caused the rotors to warp.  I use my friend's torque wrench when I rotate my tires.  I do not trust tire shops unless I see them finish off the lugs with a torque wrench.  If they just have some  stoned grease monkey with an airgun burping the lugs tight without regard to proper torque, they will not ever touch my vehicle.

Lug nut torque is often overlooked, and often cursed, when the Lug cannot be removed unless one has an airgun, or a 6 foot breaker bar and a sailors slew of curses to spew.
 
When shopping I tend to focus on the ones near the KBB value given mileage. Make an off below that and include passing your mechanics inspection. Everything else is a lottery ticket looser, and expect someone to have hidden issues.
 
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