I got a big ol blue problem

[KingArthur]

I have an ex-military 1988 G30 hi cube van with the 6.2l diesel that has stopped being able to start. 

It was doing just fine, and now I'm just getting a click when I turn the key. I know it's some probably minor, at worse just a starter, but since is ex-military I go to check fuses and they're half gone and replaced with inline fuses or deleted altogether. A real mickey-mouse nest. I don't really know where to look first after checking that the battery is properly hooked up. I brought over two vehicles and hooked up cables to the main and auxiliary battery but same thing happens. Lights come on, I heat up the plugs, turn the key, click, lights go off. Come back 5 minutes later and the lights come back on but the same thing happens.

Anyone maybe know what to check before I get myself into a boondoggle? Or at least a forum to bring this on?

 

[highdesertranger]

is it the starter that is clicking? or a relay? there is no fuse in the start circuit. if the starter is clicking the either it's not getting full power(bad battery, bad cable) or a bad starter. is it dual voltage like the PU's and Blazers? highdesertranger

 

[Manyways2go]

Remove the cables at the battery(s) and scrape them clean. It certainly sounds like cable connection most likely at the battery

 

[B and C]

Make sure the cables are not corroded going into the battery connector. Also check where the negative cable attaches to ground and positive attachment.

 

[bullfrog]

Do everything above. Well charged batteries, good clean cables and good clean connections. Have someone or yourself where you can safely hear or feel if the starter solenoid on top the starter motor is clicking when you turn and holld the key in the crank position then take a small hammer or bar and tap the starter motor housing a few times while still holding the key in the crank position. Soleniods sometimes get gummed up and stick, the contact washer gets burnt or corroded, tapping the housing causes a vibration that may unstick the washer or cause it to make better contact by vibration of the washer/ housing. If it clicks when you turn the key the washer is not stuck and usually the solenoid is good in most cases. That leaves the starter motor as the possible problem. Brushes that conduct the electricity to make the motor run can stick or wear out or internal electrical shorts can occur and these are usually between the fixed and rotating parts. Again by causing vibrations between the parts can cause the componets to seperate just long enough to get them moving and the starter to work. I took my family on vacation one year and my 6 year old son's job was to slide under the car as he was small enough to fit under the car without jacking it up and rap on the starter with a hammer while I held the key in the start position every time we stopped! If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer after all it is broken already and it will make you feel better!!! LOL !!! Just tap don't beat it to death.

 

[ckelly78z]

The starter can be bench tested at an autoparts store, but must be removed from the vehicle for the test. The battery can be tested for draw down at the same autoparts store without being pulled out. You may have them do a diagnostic scan while you are there to note any other issues.

Do a search for the location of your vehicle's grounding locations, and make a point of removing/cleaning/ inspecting them all.

Battery cables, connections seems like the most likely answer with the possability of being an external starter solenoid as the culprit on an older car.

 

[KingArthur]

Well I'll certainly check out all the grounds again. I'll just go ahead and get new terminal clamps too as the ones on there are quite ugly and worn out. Amazing how temperamental these magic pixies called electrons can be.

After fixing this I've got to decide whether I want to get involved with doing more repairs on this thing or if I just want to sell it in the condition it's in. The plan for this vehicle was to turn it into a really great rv, but at this point I've decided that going with a tow vehicle and a camper is going to be a much better idea for me. I need to at the very least do the rear main seal, and it probably needs a harmonic balancer as well. So I've got to decide whether I want to do the work myself or send it away to a shop and pay God knows how much to have someone else do it. I've dropped a few transmissions in my time and done a few rear seals, but my time is more valuable these days than it used to be.

I was thinking today that a great place to list this thing would be on here as it would make an excellent rv.

 

[highdesertranger]

that's a 2wd 2 piece rear main. you must drop the pan and the rear main cap. you can't easily drop the pan in a 2wd. . if it was a 4x4 it's no problem and there is really no need to drop the trans. were are you located? highdesertranger

 

[KingArthur]

Southeastern Pennsylvania.

 

[highdesertranger]

bummer. highdesertranger

that's nothing against where you live but it's way to far away for me to have an interest in the van.

 

[Doubleone]

Yeah, I'd check the grounds and battery connections first.  Check voltage on the battery after you turn the headlights on for a minute.  If voltage is below 11.5 or so, you likely have bad batteries.  Assuming the batteries are good, have someone tap the starter with a small hammer as the key is held in start position.  If the starter engages it could be a bad starter/solenoid.  If still no start, check voltage at the starter solenoid.  It should be within a few tenths of battery voltage.  The starter is at the end of the circuit, after the key, after the trans lock out, etc., so if voltage low at the starter solenoid it would be something in the circuit.  Try a jump directly to the battery power.  If the starter works with direct battery voltage, then the problem is in the starter circuit, start tracing the circuit back to the key.