SternWake
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I was also not willing to lose any interior space for insulation even though i have no chance of standing upright. More important is I have room for several surfboards hanging from my ceiling, and that they do not get so hot that the traction wax melts off this has not been an issue. One side of my roof has a Unisolar 68 watt panel adhered to it directly above a surfboard. the Ceiling in that area is much hotter than the portions of the roof that are simply white, but not hot enough to melt the surf wax.
My cheapo laminate flooring has no subfloor, my fiberglass roof has only 1/2 inch foil backed foamboard inbetween the OSB runners as both would otherwise reduce interior space and my motto on my build was waste no space. I also knew I was not likely to spend time in cold climates so I insulated very lightly with almost nothing on the walls.
One thing about the interior ceiling is emissivity. This is the ability of a hot surface to radiate heat and is directly related to the color. A hot black surface will emit a lot more heat the same temperature white surface would, and shiny foil surface radiates the least heat. So lets say the uninsulated roof is black and baking in the texas noontime sun in june. One side of the interior ceiling is a black color, the other is white. An IR gun would likely measure 135f on the black side and 105F on the white
My ceiling/ walls are white 4x8 plastic sheeting I found at Lowes in 2007 that specifically says not for use in an RV, which I ignored.
With a white exterior, minimal insulation, and a white interior, and good ventilation and tight fitting reflextix window shades on the sunny side, heat is not an issue in my Van. I can hang out inside it on a 95 degree day in full sunlight, if I have to. Granted in this area if it is 95f it is also usually quite dry, and a fan blowing on a wet/damp sarong can suck prodigious amounts of heat out of my body and actually give me the chills.
The white plastic I lined my interior with has a smooth side and a rough side. I placed the rough side facing inward, and when I mush moths on it I have to wipe their entrails off quickly or it is very difficult to clean, but otherwise I am happy with its function and appearance.
I would not put much faith in the insulative claims of the Hytech paint product, also, if it is painted on an interior surface, yet the hollow vaccuum filled microspheres are designed to rise to to the top, well this might further inhibit any insulative properties, if the product actually worked, which I do not believe it does, other than in making a slip proof sandpaper like surface, that would take a layer of skin with it if inadvertently hit.
If the interior of your roof is bare fiberglass, the paint might 'fisheye' or separate after application it depends on the type of resin they used in the mold making process, if they coated the polyester laminating resin with a sanding resin, or not. Sanding resin has a wax in it that rises to the surface adn allows the resing to fully cure, without the wax the laminating resin remains a bit tacky and will clog sandpaper, and can serve as a test.
A wipe with denatured alcohol could promote adhesion and prevent fisheyes if they occur in the test patch. You might have to do the karate kid wax on wax off thing, but use a green DNA soaked scrubbie in one hand and a clean paper towel on the other to suck off the residue. Obviously doing this overhead means dna drips down ones arms, and DNA fumes are not good to breathe. The Paint stink can last for weeks too, especially if applied too thick or adding another coat before the first has dried sufficiently, which is all too easy to do.
My cheapo laminate flooring has no subfloor, my fiberglass roof has only 1/2 inch foil backed foamboard inbetween the OSB runners as both would otherwise reduce interior space and my motto on my build was waste no space. I also knew I was not likely to spend time in cold climates so I insulated very lightly with almost nothing on the walls.
One thing about the interior ceiling is emissivity. This is the ability of a hot surface to radiate heat and is directly related to the color. A hot black surface will emit a lot more heat the same temperature white surface would, and shiny foil surface radiates the least heat. So lets say the uninsulated roof is black and baking in the texas noontime sun in june. One side of the interior ceiling is a black color, the other is white. An IR gun would likely measure 135f on the black side and 105F on the white
My ceiling/ walls are white 4x8 plastic sheeting I found at Lowes in 2007 that specifically says not for use in an RV, which I ignored.
With a white exterior, minimal insulation, and a white interior, and good ventilation and tight fitting reflextix window shades on the sunny side, heat is not an issue in my Van. I can hang out inside it on a 95 degree day in full sunlight, if I have to. Granted in this area if it is 95f it is also usually quite dry, and a fan blowing on a wet/damp sarong can suck prodigious amounts of heat out of my body and actually give me the chills.
The white plastic I lined my interior with has a smooth side and a rough side. I placed the rough side facing inward, and when I mush moths on it I have to wipe their entrails off quickly or it is very difficult to clean, but otherwise I am happy with its function and appearance.
I would not put much faith in the insulative claims of the Hytech paint product, also, if it is painted on an interior surface, yet the hollow vaccuum filled microspheres are designed to rise to to the top, well this might further inhibit any insulative properties, if the product actually worked, which I do not believe it does, other than in making a slip proof sandpaper like surface, that would take a layer of skin with it if inadvertently hit.
If the interior of your roof is bare fiberglass, the paint might 'fisheye' or separate after application it depends on the type of resin they used in the mold making process, if they coated the polyester laminating resin with a sanding resin, or not. Sanding resin has a wax in it that rises to the surface adn allows the resing to fully cure, without the wax the laminating resin remains a bit tacky and will clog sandpaper, and can serve as a test.
A wipe with denatured alcohol could promote adhesion and prevent fisheyes if they occur in the test patch. You might have to do the karate kid wax on wax off thing, but use a green DNA soaked scrubbie in one hand and a clean paper towel on the other to suck off the residue. Obviously doing this overhead means dna drips down ones arms, and DNA fumes are not good to breathe. The Paint stink can last for weeks too, especially if applied too thick or adding another coat before the first has dried sufficiently, which is all too easy to do.
