How to screw celing panels into ribs without damaging wires inside the rib?

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FALCON

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Ok, I'm converting a Promaster for my mom.

I've ran wires. There are quite a few going through the ceiling ribs. I'd prefer, if possible, to keep these wire runs up in the ribs as they are nicely out of the way.

Now, I want to install ceiling panels. I've expected to use metal screws to screw the ceiling panels into the ribs. But I don't want these screws to damage the wires inside the ribs. How should I do this?

The wires do have some room to move in there, so would they just move out of the way of screws?

I've considered trying to put nuts up in the ribs (and maybe gluing them down to keep them in place(?), which seems like something I'd have trouble with) and then use bolts instead of pointed screws.

Is there something I should put up in the ribs to form a barrier?

Are there some kind of little plastic things to push through holes I drill in the ribs and screw into?

If I really need to, I could take most of the wires out of those ceiling ribs and run them along the bed frame and behind stuff (I'd prefer to keep them up in the ribs because it's much cleaner that way and they will be very out of the way when the conversion is done)
 
you could run them alongside the ribs, once the ceiling panels are in place they will hold the wires in place. I would say just go ahead and leave the wires in the ribs if they are loose. 99% of the time the screw will just move the wire out of the way, but it's that 1% that will get you. if you do run them alongside the ribs you can hold them in place with zip ties or duct tape until the ceiling is in place. highdesertranger
 
Sounds like he already has run the wires inside the ribs.

I'd use anchors (mollies) which would both help to keep the screws in, and would not pierce the wires. Drill your holes shallow, push the anchor through and seat it, then measure your holes in your panel material real well to line up with the anchors. Fill between the ribs with insulation, cover it with your roof panels, screw it down, voila.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
are there wires in each rib? can you skip the ribs with wires in them? can you put furring strips in perpendicular to the ribs for panel hardware?
 
I would run alongside. Not worth the 1% highdesertranger refers to.
 
Thanks for the input folks.

Here's what I'm planning to do.

(note again that the wires are already inside the ribs so to take them out and attach along the ribs would be extra work, and also might interfere with the metal bands I will use to make springs for extra support holding up the ceiling insulation. Also, the wires aren't tight in the ribs or anything so they have room to move around out of the way of the screws.)

- Stuff however much bubble wrap I can get up into the ribs. This will push the wires upwards, I think/hope, and also insulate a bit.
- Use flat-ended machine screws. I just did a test and they will grab hold and screw into the metal. I think I only have one drill bit that's the right size so lets hope I can do all the holes without breaking it and going back to the store (probably a slim chance though I may start the holes with a smaller bit)

These flat-ended screws won't poke the wires, and the threads on them are fine enough that I doubt they'll cause any significant wear on the wire insulation over time. Plus there will be the bubble wrap in at least some parts of the ribs.

Here we go...
 

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A thought for us about to do this same project. Glad this came up! I'll use the suggestions here to run alongside. My contribution tip: Aluminum or duct tape would hold the plastic tubing in place along the rib until the ceiling takes over the job.
 
I would use Rivnuts installed before running the wires, or, attach panels with something like Sikaflex 291.
 
I did the same thing and it was a pain. Note to others: install rivnuts first, then run wires.

I stuck a dowel in each existing hole in the rib and tucked the wires out of the way to one edge of the rib. Then drilled and set the rivnuts.
 
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