how to protect cargo trailer

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Dean and Buster

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ok need ideas on how to protect the wood on the bottom of my cargo trailer to make it water tight for living in and to protect my investment need  ideas on what to do
 
Are you talking about the top side of the wood, or the road-facing bottom side?

For the top side, I would concur with deck paint, assuming you don't just buy a sheet of house-type vinyl flooring to put down over it.

For the bottom side, there are various discussions over in the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailers forums among the people who build their own teardrops on protecting the wood bottom of their trailers.

One idea I like is Marine Bilge Paint.  This is highly resistant to spilled fuel, anti-freeze, etc. that might accumulate in the bottom of your wooden boat.  But it ain't cheap!

https://www.jamestowndistributors.c...lyName=TotalBoat+TotalBilge+Epoxy+Bilge+Paint

http://www.tnttt.com/
 
Might be a good idea to caulk where the walls meet the floor,too.
 
Waterproof sheeting only protects against small spills etc.

Any moisture getting under it is going to be trapped longer.

Best of all is true marine-rated ply to start with. Next best is sealing up all six surfaces pre-installation.

After the fact with non'marine ply, nothing will last forever. But I like the marine paint suggestions, and sealing the edges with a marine grade poly caulk like Sika 291 would help with the very vulnerable sheet sides.
 
First of all you have to determine if it has already been coated or treated with something.  That will effect whatever you are applying.

For the top side:  It depends on what you are going to put over it.  Whatever you use (since I am assuming you are going to be living in it) you want something that doesn't outgas, or outgases very quickly and is non-toxic.  My experience is with open trailers and flatbeds so I will leave recommendations to others.

For the underside.  Since you can't tip it on end or upside down it's going to be messy.  These work with bare wood, don't know how they would work if the wood has been otherwise treated.  IMO the two best coatings for the wood underside of a trailer are:
  1. A mixture of1/2 boiled linseed oil and 1/2 turpentine.  Applied in the hottest, driest weather you can and works best if the wood is completely dry.  Apply, let dry, and keep reapplying until the wood will not absorb any more.  Check each year to see if the wood will absorb and if so reapply.  Usually have to reapply after a year and is good for ~ 10 years before it needs reapplying.
  2. Used motor oil (my favorite).  Used as is or thinned.  If thinned with turpentine it is a coating that doesn't get your hands dirty when dry.  Apply as with linseed oil/turpentine.  Some flatbeds that are 60+ years old still have solid wood floors (and this is with only the initial treatment, no reapplying).
An acquaintance used truck bedliner on the bottom of his contractor trailer.  Still too soon to tell how this works, still going well after 5 years.  Although he has had to reapply to the front 3 feet of the underside as this area gets blasted by what the tow vehicle throws up (which is a problem for any coating that isn't absorbed).

 -- Spiff
 
If using linseed oil , be aware that if you leave rags or even brushes out , they can spontaneously ignite !
Dispose of in a fireproof container .
 
I was thinking of using the car under coating, from a spray can, 
what are your guys thoughts on that
 
toddanderson said:
I was thinking of using the car under coating, from a spray can, 
what are your guys thoughts on that

+1 ^^^^^^^^^
 
highdesertranger said:
you know when I first read the tittle I was going to say .357.  highdesertranger

I think my first thought was 12 gauge.
 
Insured by Smith & Wesson...

Yeah, I thought regular rubberized undercoating would work OK.
 
My trailer came with basically car undercoating sprayed on the underside. It's fairly thick and in 20,000 miles of towing I've seen no issues.
 
Old clothes and big ground cloth and some unapproved cleaner that will cause cancer.
 
Whatever you decide, I would use an absorbing in type product (used motor oil, deck sealer, linseed oil, etc) over a layering product. The theory being if you apply a product that creates it's own layer.....paint, bedliner type product, etc, if it chips water can get in between the product and the plywood and actually speed up the rot process. Where as an absorbing product won't trap moisture.
 
On my tiny trailer i used an elastomeric roof sealant. 3 coats. I figured if it's good enough for water from the sky, it should be good enough for water from the road.. still building so theory is untested.
 
It's the rocks and grit, like sandblasting that is the issue.
 
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