Heaters for Vans

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Ok thanks guys...Little buddy is out.
 
Can't speak about the Buddie, but I have the Olympian Wave 6, it's bigger cousin. &nbsp;Works absolutely fantastic for me. &nbsp;A note to those about them being too hot even on low, mine is too&nbsp;<img border="0" align="absmiddle" src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif"> &nbsp;But I solved that long ago. &nbsp;That knob is just a gas valve, like on a gas stove. &nbsp;It has "detents", clicking spots telling you high-medium-low. &nbsp;But they are for convenience, not absolutes. &nbsp;When it's really cold I run mine on high until it gets to be livably warm, then I turn it even LOWER than the low detent. &nbsp;This takes a bit of fiddling, if you turn it too low it'll just die out, but you learn just how low it can go and it will be considerably lower than that low detent position they provide.<div>I'm in a 20' RV, when it's close to freezing outside maybe I have to crank it up to between low &amp; medium, otherwise it's almost always on the lowest I can turn that knob, believe me, it's much lower than low. &nbsp;Solid month of freezing weather, $20 worth of propane&nbsp;<img border="0" align="absmiddle" src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/biggrin.gif">&nbsp;&nbsp;And I'm only cold for a few minutes in the morning until it warms up, it goes all day until bedtime.</div><div>As far as condensation, any way you warm up a vehicle in humid weather is going to create condensation, that's physics. &nbsp;Think of a cold drink with ice in it on a hot summer day, that warm humid air hits that cold glass wall and voila! &nbsp;Condensation. &nbsp;I can recall trips in snow country and the windows fogging terribly in the car, and there you have a totally different heating method. &nbsp;I'd bet there is less condensation from a catalytic than any other heating method, simply because of the required ventilation. &nbsp;What do you do in the car in snow country when the windows fog? &nbsp;"Everybody, roll down the windows!"</div><div>The Little Buddie, Olympian, Coleman, they are all catalytics, although in small vehicles that Coleman catalytic might be a way to go.</div><div>I am surprised, I have seen nothing but good about the Little Buddie too. &nbsp;But after 3 years with my catalytic I'm convinced, it's the way to go. &nbsp;Well, until I finish my solar heater...even then I'll need it in the evening.</div>
 
<br>&nbsp;I used a Mr Buddy heater in my 26' class C RV and it was almost always on low which they say puts out 4000 BTU's. We were pretty happy with it and it was nice to have the 9000 BTU setting to warm the RV up quick when we were in Minnesota in November.<br>&nbsp;The other RVers said the Olympian Wave heaters were better as they put out less Carbon Monoxide. It looks like the Wave 6 is about $360 at Amazon but there's also a Wave 3 that puts out 1600 to 3000 BTU's for $193. Here's a link-<br><br>&nbsp; http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-Olympian-Wave-3-Catalytic/dp/B000BUV1RK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top<br><br>&nbsp;If I wind up in a cargo van I'll probably go with one of these. I don't really like propane though as in addition to condensation I think they produce a lot of water vapor and it was a bit of a problem with the Mr Buddy.<br>&nbsp;So I'll probably try to also build my own very small woodstove. Also because it'll be fun just playing with the fire <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> and it'd be neat if it was movable as I'm thinking an add-a-room coming off of the side of the van would be nice with a little woodstove out there. It'll use up a lot of the oxygen when it's inside the van though so I'll be piping cold air into the stove as well as having the exhaust pipe.<br>&nbsp;I like these little rocket stoves as they're supposed to be a lot more efficient than a regular woodstove so I'll be playing around with that, although I'll probably have to forego the thermal mass option as it'll probably be too heavy. Here's a youtube video about the rocket stoves-<br><br>&nbsp; <br><br>&nbsp;Might be a problem banking the coals at night though. I might get the guy's book that's featured in the video.<br>
 
<P>We camp year round, and I spent a couple of winters in tents in the Arctic circle (join the Marine Corps, see exotic places lol. Put a new meaning to the term 'cold war'). The trick is not to 'heat' the van, but to make it sufferably cool, then let the bedding/clothing keep you warm. A smaller heater will let the bedding keep you comfortable, and use less fuel. Long johns are a must *grin*.</P>
 
Putting the Portable Buddy back in it's box yesterday, I noticed a statement on one of the flaps that use at altitudes over 7,000' is not recommended.&nbsp; I don't recall seeing this in any of the other literature.<br><br>My guess is that the low oxygen sensor safety cut-off is activated and/or that the unit may be over fueled at high altitudes.&nbsp; Does that make sense?&nbsp; Has anyone used one in high country and had it cut off a lot?<br><br>I bought this specifically for use on our recent trip where we stayed around 8,500'.&nbsp; Like someone else said, keeping our cores warm (rather than the air) seemed to be key for us (easy to do with hot springs just up the trail!).&nbsp; We didn't use the heater, or the extra sleeping bags, but it didn't get very chilly and was quite dry.&nbsp; I'll admit to coveting my husband's Morino wool unders, though.&nbsp; You know...just in case.&nbsp; Very nice stuff.<br><br>Vickie<br><br>
 
I'll be using six felines - each producing somewhere between 15 - 40 BTUs <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"><br>
 
Cherry said:
I'll be using six felines - each producing somewhere between 15 - 40 BTUs <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"><br>
<div><br></div><div>LOL If there was a face book button here..I press the like button!!</div>
 
I've been testing this. It's&nbsp; been chilly at night here in Md we had nights into the 40s and I left the windows open on the current single wide trailer (64' x 14') and slept on the sofa. All of the cats slept on top of me and I was snug as a bug. They weren't very happy and I was getting a lot of WTF looks from them. They better get some thicker skin! This lets them get their winter coats on too.<br>
 
I've been tent camping&nbsp;when it got cold enough that we woke up to find the water in a bird bath frozen solid several times.&nbsp;We used an ordinary coleman lantern to get the tent warm enough to change (quickly), turned it off&nbsp;then stayed warm with hats, mittens and lots of good bedding. Any van or camper with decent insulation could probably be warmed up before bed and the heat turned off at bedtime and stay bearable. And stay bundled in the morning until it warms up enough to undress, wash up, and change for the day.<br><br>Now, I admit, I want to stay warmer than that on a normal basis at night, and it probably wouldn't be a great idea to try it where it dropped below 15 unless you have a very well insulated "home". But it's more doable than people think. I'm still trying to decide on a "heating system" but the portable propane ones make me uneasy in&nbsp;tiny spaces.<br>
 
I think Im going &nbsp;<font class="Apple-style-span" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="2"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: nowrap;">Johnny Canuck way. From his post...</span></font><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(247, 247, 247); "><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">I made this as a heater. It is a mason jar.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Go to the hardware store plumbing dept.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Buy a 1/4" threaded (hollow) copper or brass fitting.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Drill hole in jar cap center.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Screw in fitting half way.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">I used a little silicone around the bottom of the cap (inside) to seal it. Probably not needed.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">I could not buy a wick to fit, so I bought 1/8" cotton cord and did a 4 strand braid. It fits nice and tight. You can pull up the wick when needed by using a pocket knife or large needle.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">I bought a 3/4" copper end cap to act as a snuffer to put out the flame.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Methyl Hydrate is cheap and is used as a thinner for shellac.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">It burns clean with no soot.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">In this 6oz. jar I got 8 hours of heat. Cost about 8 cents per hour.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">If you lengthen the wick you get more heat.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">You can make a table mount out of plywood or a shelf. Buy a tall spaghetti sauce can and place the lamp inside. Use a BBQ lighter to light the wick.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">It is not shown here (have not made it yet), drill a hole in the copper snuffer cap center and attach&nbsp;stiff wire so you can reach the flame without burning your hand. Bend the wire at a 90 degree angle so your hand is not over the heat.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">The&nbsp;yellow cap is in the hardware dept. It is used to cover bolt ends. This keeps the alcohol from evaporating. Or place the lamp in a zip lock bag. Make sure the lamp remains upright at all times. You can keep it in the spaghetti can for storage.</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3"></font></b>&nbsp;</p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Questions?</font></b></p><p align="left" style="font-family: Arial; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; "><b><font size="3">Its simple ,not ugly and it works as other people have used it.</font></b></p></span></div>
 
<span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">Has anyone tried the heat bulbs?&nbsp; Of course it would require having power.&nbsp; You can just buy a metal can lamp thing to put them in.&nbsp; What do you think?&nbsp; Safe?</span><br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><br style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><a href="http://www.amazon.com/WATTS-HOURS-LIGHT-INDUSTRIAL-INFRARED/dp/B000STDLFE" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">http://www.amazon.com/WATTS-HOURS-LIGHT-INDUSTRIAL-INFRARED/dp/B000STDLFE</a>
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/WATTS-HOURS-LIGHT-INDUSTRIAL-INFRARED/dp/B000STDLFE" target="_blank" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: left; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></a><div><br></div><div>I use a simular set up although not that exact model and it does a decent job of keeping the temps above 50 degrees in my 22 foot RV so I can conserve my propane since electricity is free with my space. &nbsp;Below about 28 degrees though and its almost worthless. &nbsp;Im not sure how many BTU's mine throws out but it does kick out some heat.</div><div><br></div><div>It probably wouldnt keep you toasty warm in a well insulated retrofited van, but it would probably make it bearable.</div>
 

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