Good C Class RVs?

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Adventuregurl

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2017
Messages
49
Reaction score
0
I am considering getting a C class to most likely full time in, but I want to try it out first before I sell my house. I could probably spend $35,000 or so on it and I'd want to buy a rig that I could sell rather easily if it turns out that I don't like it. I am thinking around 28' or so with slides as I still work and will be in it a lot. 

What would be my best bet as far as places to look for one, and brands to consider? I am brand new to this although I've had an interest for years. Is an Itasca a good RV? Any other brands? They all seem to have become so pricey lately and harder to find. Also, I really like rigs that look esthetically pleasing, like painted wood and nice decor, does that add much to the value? Any other tips for me?

Thanks in advance!
 
That’s a hard one. There are very few that actually hold their value in the RV world. Some of the trailers do though like Airstream and any of the small fiberglass campers like casita or Scamp.

There are a few quality RVs but they can be very expensive. In the last ten years quality has dropped to incredible lows. What happened is when the big guys, Thor and Forest River, bought out all the competition, big profits and low quality became the name of the game.

Whatever you look at be sure to join a corresponding forum or Facebook page and look around at the known pitfalls.

I had a 2002 Class B plus with one slide and the brand was Dynamax. It was a superbly made camper with solid oak cabinets and the layout was incredible compared to others. Unfortunately it had the triton engine which was known for spitting out spark plugs. Happened to us twice and I ended getting an improved redone engine.

I would have kept the RV forever but a husband popped into the picture with a back so bad we needed an adjustable bed. So I sold it to a good friend and bought a larger rig to accommodate the bad back problem.

I did my homework and joined a jillion face groups and the one RV that owners were pleased with the most was the Newmar. Prices were through the roof but we managed to purchase a 2009 model.

It’s way too complicated with buttons I don’t even know what they do. We have had all kinds of little things we have had to fix here and there but, with any rig - or house for that matter, you will have maintenance. We were able to work around the medical problems by having this rig however.

As far as a good quality Class C I believe the Born Free and the Lazy Days stand out as solid RVs. Anything else you might want to look at RVs at least ten years old. But whatever you do hit those face groups for the RV and find out everything. I would also suggest having it professionally inspected before that money changes hands.

I bought my Dynamax through a company that consigns tons of RVs. I hired a guy in that area to go check it out for me.

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale

Whatever you decide good luck! Maybe some others can chime in with quality brands.

Also. RV dealers charge a jillion dollars an hour. I suggest you learn how to fix things.
 
Hi Adventuregirl,

Cammalu is absolutely correct on her points. I've lived in a Class C for five years. Sit in the space and envision yourself cooking for yourself and a friend, preparing a larger meal than normal. Are you satisfied with the cookware storage? flatware? food? What about your prep area?

I inherited my Class C when my mother passed, I didn't have the option of counter space. I literally have 2" between the stove and sink and another two inches between the sink and refrigerator. I used a dish drainer pad on top of the stove for the majority of my counter needs. My blender sat in the sink and whirled. I don't cook, never has been enjoyable to me. So my space was ok.

Now, I will tell you to check out https://cruiseamerica.com they rent RVs, refurbish and sale at a decent price. This is where my parents bought their class C that I inherited. It was in fabulous shape when they got it and passed it on to me. I added solar. Yet, it's a 2000 and I probably wont get much more than 5k for it.

I am upgrading to a Class A. I have chosen the style and have joined the forums that support it. I am now aware of what I should be aware of concerning the new to me RV.

Good luck with your adventures.
 
I would have to agree with the previous two, Rv's are in the same category as your mobile homes, if not worse.. many of them are not built very well at all.. Unless you start getting in to the class A bus type.. and even then I don't believe they hold their value.
 
Adventuregurl said:
Thanks in advance!

I have been researching the RV market for the last year.

There are far fewer Cs built than As, As such they are a bit harder to find.

There are builders that have good reputations, but that also comes at a cost.. LazyDaze has a great repuptation.

Most RVs are built as cheap as they can get away with, and then upsell decent components for $$ to the buyer of new units.

Previous rental RVs are a gamble. They are well maintained, but hard used sometimes.

Slides are a hole in the rig that will never seal well and is a point of failure. (as is everything else in the rig  )

If $30k will get you "x" in a class C, the same dollar will get you more for your money in a class A.

The market has been screamin hot and prices high on all RVs, but I think that is goign to end by the end of summer as everyone find out that RVing isn't all that...  

Lastly.. nothing you do will add any value sat all to your future RV. In fact, the moment you buy it, you will have lost a percentage. by the time you are 2 years out it will have lost more... and.. if you buy right now, and you want  to get out in the next year, if the market cools off, you will be stuck with it, or will have to take a loss... there has been a lot of "bad press" in regards to RV mfgs being dicks/building cheap rigs/being hell with a repairs... then there are the jam packed campgrounds all over and those horror stories.. so... yeah..

good luck.. ask lots of questions!

Jason
 
I have never been inside one but Lazy Daze class c’s seemed to be built nicer then others. I’d prefer a class C without a slide(simplicity) but that might be hard to find.
 
Wonder what percentage of Class C's are owned by the rental firms.

Class C's do start at a lower (relatively speaking) price point than Class A's.

Then travel trailers start at an even lower (relatively speaking) price point.

If it is only used occasionally, cheaper to have a TT sitting around than a MH.
 
To me, the floor plan is one of the important things to consider when choosing an RV.
 
A recent article:

The folks of RVtravel participate in nationwide conference calls with dealerships and others that sell and service RVs. In one of those recent calls, dealerships offered some pretty damning comments on the quality of new RVs. The RV publication is withholding the names of those dealerships, but the quotes are pretty stunning:

“It’s some of the worst stuff I’ve seen in 30 years,” said one longtime RV dealer. “It’s horrendous inside and out. But we have no recourse but to put it on the lot and try to sell it. You take what you can get, and you move on.”

The East Coast dealer said RV manufacturers are “building them as fast as they can, and there just isn’t any quality control. Manufacturers are not doing a good job of taking care of their customers. It’s gone from bad to worse.”

Poor RV quality isn’t anything new and the subject has been covered for years by publications and owners alike. It’s why some people would rather go through the work of converting a bus or a van.

“I had one newbie who purchased what they thought was the Taj Mahal of RVs,” said one dealer. “They take their first trip with it, and they come back in with 40 different problems with it. Then, I get to tell them they have to wait weeks or even months to get it fixed because nobody can get the parts.”

A survey conducted by Thompson Research Group and reported by RV News echoes similar concerns from other dealerships. The survey also describes how RVs show up to dealerships with the wrong parts or parts that don’t work.

One dealership responded to RVtravel’s report, sharing their thoughts on which RV manufacturers are slipping and which ones aren’t, concluding that buyers have to draw their own conclusions based on their own research. You’d think that manufacturers selling a product that costs as much as some houses would be a little more focused on quality, and that dealers would do a little more to look out for buyers.

https://jalopnik.com/rv-dealerships-think-new-campers-are-pieces-of-junk-to-1847755639
 
internet research

google Class C RV manufacturers and you will hit Heartland, Thor, Fleetwood, Coachmen, Jayco, Forest River and a ton of others.
Just go to the source.

Find that floorplan and size that suits you and if ya hit what you desire, research it a bit but darn, alot of them are so darn great and in the end, buy what you want, fits you, what you truly know will be a fine home living quarter for you and with so many options, yea you can easily find something I would think to make life great out on the road for you :)
 
Here's an excerpt from an upcoming article by a current previously owned Class C:

1. ENGINE AND CHASSIS
In my first vintage rig, Fiona, I had replaced all the major components in the interior — the rooftop AC, refrigerator, stove and oven, water pump, and the fuse box. All that was left was the engine and then I was going to start on redecorating the inside. But before I got that far, as I mentioned, she had an electrical fire and I ended up selling her.

This time, I started with the engine and all the chassis components. So far, I have had to repair or replace the following (and this is a partial list): ball joints, u joints, carrier bearings, control arm bushing, shocks, brakes — front and rear, water pump (engine), steering gear box, full tune up (spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap), front end alignment and carburetor service.

And, the cabin AC system (not the RV rooftop AC) was completely replaced, including having parts fabricated because they are no longer available. It seems like everyone wants to tell me that I should just go to salvage yards to find parts for my vintage RV. The problem with that is … they are salvage parts and they are old and they have been sitting for who knows how long. One can do that, but it doesn’t mean you are saving any money in the long run. I have also found, for me, that working with reputable businesses who are licensed and have referrals, also saves money in the long run.

2. UPGRADES
When I bought Phoenyx, the previous owner had already started a fabulous interior rebuild and, in addition to the build, several things had already been upgraded - a new refrigerator, Nature Head toilet, water pump (RV), and a new kitchen sink, plus faucets for the sink and shower.

Other things to consider that may need replacing are any of your appliances, and possibly the wiring or a cabinet rebuild if the new ones don’t fit.

Speaking of wiring, be sure to check out the fuse box. I had replaced the one in Fiona (my class B), but then the wiring in one of the walls caught fire one night. I didn’t even have anything on. At the time, the fireman speculated that the new fuse box was probably too much for the old wiring. Something else to be aware of. And, sure enough, the fuse box in Phoenyx, my current rig, consists of glass fuses. All of that, at some point, will need to be replaced.

Speaking of electrical upgrades. Does the rig you are considering have enough outlets? If you are going to be boondocking, do you have a way of installing or accessing outlets connected to an inverter vs. being dependent on shore power?

If you are going to add solar, where will the wires run? Is the roof strong enough for solar? There are other options available — portable power stations, portable and flexible solar panels, etc., but you may need to know your power usage needs before buying a rig so that you know whether or not it is doable. (Power usage and solar installation is beyond the scope of this article.)

I personally do not like external generators — gas or diesel. I have a traumatic brain injury and cannot tolerate the noise of even the quietest models. But if you are going to use a generator, and are buying an older model rig, you can almost be certain that you will need to replace it — and probably the internal wiring to the power outlets as well.

Phoenyx does not have built-in outside storage like newer model RVs. The only built-in outside storage I have is where the generator used to be. Even if I were to put a generator in that compartment, it would not work. The wiring is no longer viable. Again, I will stress that just because you are possibly saving money up front with a low buy-in, depending on your needs, it doesn’t mean that you are guaranteed cost-savings in the long run.

If your rig of choice doesn’t have enough outside storage, are you going to have to add storage? There are many options — hitch hauls, swing aways, roof racks and a myriad of cargo storage boxes. Regardless, that is an additional cost that may need to be factored in.

The furnaces in both Fiona and Phoenyx were removed prior to me purchasing them. I personally do not feel safe using a vintage furnace so I would have removed them anyway. My heat source is now an Olympian Wave 3 Catalytic Heater on a swing arm. That way I can face it toward the front or back, depending on where I am.

Are you a techno buff or do you want access to the internet? How often? All the time or only when you are in town? Does the rig you are considering have ports or wiring for modern technology? If not, how are you going to charge your electronics and access the internet?

3. INTERIOR REPAIRS and REMODELING
Changing any of the above usually also means interior repairs or at minimum, interior remodeling.

Always check for leaks. Move furniture and cushions and check underneath windows, along the walls, and where walls and the ceilings meet the floor. Even then there is no guarantee that you won’t spring a leak. Our rigs, regardless of size and shape, are rolling down the road jostling things inside at something equivalent to mild earthquake disturbances.

In Fiona, I had tubing come apart on the RV side of the fresh water tank. Recently in Phoenyx, I had a plumbing leak in the shower wall. Part of the lines had to be replaced as well as the shower mixer. It would not have been a big deal but the old polybutylene lines are no longer made and the adapters to connect them to the newly sized plumbing lines were hard to find.

Likewise, my water heater recently stopped working. It was going to cost more to try and find old parts and replace them than it was to get a new water heater. I went with an “on demand” water heater aka an RV Instantaneous Gas Water Heater. It didn’t fit the old compartment and now I have a “patch” job on the side of my RV that is far less than optimal.

Likewise, my rooftop AC went out not long after I bought my rig. There were no available parts to be found anywhere for a repair so I had to replace it. The new one did not fit the current cut out — for the roof or my inlay board ceiling. That was an additional cost on the installation that I had not budgeted for.

4. EXTERIOR REPAIRS and PAINT/POLISH
Always looks for leaks. Sometimes they are easy to see, other times they are not. Stand next to your rig and look down the length of it. Do you see any ripples? Look for rust, especially along the roof line. Also, how much patch work has been done on the exterior of the rig you are considering? It may mean it’s been fixed or it could indicate an on-going issue.

Also, part of what makes all of the repairs and remodels worth it to me on Phoenyx is that she is fiberglass. There is no way I could afford a new 23 foot fiberglass rig so I’m willing to spend a little more on her than I normally would.

On my first long-haul trip, my windshield started leaking. It had been replaced many times without the old gaskets being removed. So much so, it was no longer able to seat correctly and was not staying in. I’m still having an issue with it. That’s another issue… when you get things repaired on the road, you can’t always go back to the shop that did the work. That can also lead to higher cost.

All of my windows need to be re-caulked. They have been sealed and re-sealed over the years and look junky. The good news is for me that they don’t leak. The bad news is that if something happens to them, they can no longer be replaced. That size is no longer made. Perhaps that is something I could find at a salvage yard, but there is no guarantee. So, they especially need to be well taken care of.

Before they can be re-caulked properly, the old “junk” will have to be removed - down to the metal — just like my cousin and I did for my windshield. In addition to that, the channels need to be replaced with new hair or felt piling. That will also help with the rattles I tolerate while driving, which in turn will help with insulation.

I am lucky to have two newer awnings over my windows, but I don’t have a porch awning. That could be considered cosmetic, but when you boondock in the desert in the winter, it also can help with insulation. Not only that, any shade you can provide helps the exterior paint and polish - similar to tire covers protecting tires.

Most secondhand rigs need a boost on their paint job. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a car, van, trailer, Class C, B or A. The paint on my poor rig was beginning to oxidize badly. It recently took me and four of my friends a total of 27 man-hours to deep cleanse, polish and wax her exterior back to life. The total cost on that because I bought all of the equipment and product needed, plus treated my friends to dinner and an overnight stay at an RV park, was approximately $300. It had to be done and I needed help. That kind of labor by myself would have put me in bed.
 
Just yesterday the dealership I bought my Rv from complained about how much warranty work he was having to do because what was coming from the factory is total crap. Personally, I knew that buying a unit (brand new I might add) was just a starter kit. I've had it for about three months so far and have yet to take it camping. It is about ready now, just need to add a few more 12v outlets and some usb stuff that the original unit either didn't have or was placed in a spot that makes it virtually unusable. Honestly, I could have built a better rig for the back of my truck and may cannibalize this new unit for parts and do it anyway. It's water-tight, that is about the only part they got right. Documentation for systems is inadequate or non-existent, support from the dealer, well, it's fun to call them and listen to all the excuses.

Used or new makes no difference in my opinion. They all have issues. I have a friend who was staying in a high-dollar campground, they creased his door with a lawnmower. The campground people are willing to pay for any parts/repairs and he's been waiting for three months just to get an appointment.

For me, this is a hobby and I'm having fun. Sometimes it's frustrating because the mfgr won't answer even simple questions and I have to pull out test equipment and figure it out myself.

Good luck with your search but keep your eyes open and remember, youtube is your friend.
 
I've owned all forms of rvs from TCs to tag alongs to 5ths and in the end, damn I had some small troubles but who doesn't with big crap they purchase but in the end, every darn rv I bought was wonderful from different manufacturers.
yea the lemons exist LOL but darn life moves forward....research, check them out, buy one and have darn fun!!
 
In the long run you will only be able to buy what your budget allows you to get. An older RV that is one of the two brands with a good reputation is still going to be expensive as well as likely to be high mileage. But sometimes you do get lucky and find one that is older that only went on a few trips a year but got driven enough to keep it in good shape.

Best wishes on the hunt. Talk it up to people you know and meet. The best prices are often found through friends of friends word of mouth searches. A lot of people are shy about advertising. Especially true of many older widows who do not want to deal with total strangers.. Post what you are looking for on the local senior citizens bulliten board.
 
I've owned two class c motorhomes. I'd rather squeeze into a 23-26 than deal with driving a 29+.

I'd rather deal with a 29+ than deal with a slide out. (I think the first six or seven times from the 1930s to the 1970s that those were tried they just faded away in failure) nothing will make it "tight".

If I felt I needed the extra space I'd probably go 33' class A.

$35,000 is a lot of money if you get something that has bottomed out (or seriously gone down) in value. 27,000 for the right older diesel class C and $8000 for refurb/repairs/deferred maintenance?

I could do a lot with that. But I don't think I'd end up with something less than ten years old.
 
I've seen similar complaints on other forums of the poor QC and reliability of new RVs.
If I was the OP I'd get a large Sprinter or Transit and pay an outfitter to build it out.
I looked into it before I decided to cheap out and build out my own.
Most of them seem oriented towards 'adventure' vans with all kinds of over the top enhancements for off road van camping.
So a plain vanilla build out without the macho man toys should be more reasonable.
They all call themselves "custom builders" but they generally have a couple layouts you can change a few things on. Like which kind of bed, and what size appliances.
Also for some reason a lot of the adventure van guys do blah gray or black interiors.
 
I've been looking for a rig for about four years, on and off, and have gone back and forth from vans (too small) to travel trailers (vehicle to pull it too expensive) to class As (gas mileage and unnecessarily big) and have finallys ettled I think on a Class C because I don't owant to pull something and although I may park and live in it for a while, I want to be able to hit the road when I feel like it. So in looking at Class CXs, i've run into the Toyota rvs from the '80s and '90s (dolphin, suntrader, odyssey, and Tradesman?) . I like them for a lot of reasons. the problems I have wiht them and for which I am seeking your input is the (1) v4 -- I wiill have to go over a mountain pass or two in my travels and the idea of straining over the pass in 2nd on a v4 kind of freaks me out. I've never driven one of these and it's just hard to image how slow it might be. I know you get better gas mileage with a v4 (and most seem to be manual which I understand means easier repairs?) but I've also been told that you're going to be stripping your gears (?) straining in 2nd etc etc. I am not speed demon, I can go 60-65 ()even 55) in freeway comfortably, just let everybody go around but I worry about power for safety's sake, if that makes sense. (2) These rigs are small but i've seen some remodels that make great use of the sopace, so that's not really a problem but would like to hear about limitations from y'all (3) A lot of these, because they are old, have had engines rebuilt, all new this and all new that. I guess I need to take anything I'm serious about buying to mechanic to check out all these "new" things -- or should IO take anything I'm looking at to RV inspector instead? (4) Any opinions on the minnie winnie, i found one that has been remodeled inside and it's the right price ('87 for $7000) but it's a v8 or v10 Triton which I have been warned off. I guess that's enough questions for now. Any help much appreciated. I've got a couple in arizona and colorado that I want to look at but want to be as well informed as possible.The one in Colorado is a Tradesman ?) and it has been taken down to struts and new pipes/poles, beams put in and new aluminum wrapped around as the skin with lots of insulation. I like the "seamless" concept but that's all I know about it. I'm currently in New Mexico but I'm thinking about just driving around the country in my camry with a bed in the backseat and keep shopping in person until I find what I want. Thanks. Tricia
 
When I started looking I made a list of everything I wanted and everything I didn't want. And I started down the list.

I didn't want any slide outs, over time slide outs will leak and need to be repaired, and if I want to spend the night at Walmart I dont want to push a slide out just to go to bed.

I looked at tire size, the bigger the tire the more that cost to replace.

I looked at the size of the holding tanks, I wanted to set this up to boondock so for me bigger means can stay out longer.

I looked as gas vs diesel. Gas engines are cheaper to repair and I can buy gas anywhere. NOTE: I dont like Ford engines so I went with a Chevy 6.0L vortex

I looked at size shorter is easier to get around in, mine is 25 feet bumper to bumper.

I did a LOT of research I finally found a 2012 Coachman Freelander 21QB with less than 18,000 on it. It needed some work on the inside in order to go full-time but it is livable inside.

I have added at least 12 12v sockets inside and need to add at least one more to then outside.

Just look around and see what yo like, visit a few RV dealers and look at what they offer for sale. Done just buy the first thing that you see.
 

Latest posts

Top