Fuse block

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tx2sturgis said:
I like to use the inline ATC MAX (or Maxi) fuse holders.

They can also be had in either fast blow (the most readily available) or a slow blow, which is awesome. Great fuses for the price. They are the right size, too, since we are sometimes working in tight conditions.
 
On the blue sea chart it says for 100 amps i can use 4awg. Then going to part 2 choosing a fuse and holder, my max fuse is 150 and minimum fuse is 125 (im not sure what they mean by single and bundled wire. Maybe referring to solid and stranded?) but if 4awg can only handle 100amps according to the chart wouldn't i want a smaller fuse or bigger wire? I have the blue sea systems 12 circuit fuse block rated at 100 amps. It says max fuse input is 125.
I'll be nowhere near 100 amps but I want to get it right if i want to add something in the future.
 
A single wire in free air can dissipate heat more than a bundle of wires in a closed conduit.

That's why they err on the side of safety for bundled wires. 

I'm not sure why they state a 'minimum' fuse, heck you can fuse very heavy wire at very low amps if you want, assuming the load is very small. My 100A fuse panel is fused at 50 amps. That's plenty for the loads I have on it.

If you will be way under 100 amps, then just fuse it for the expected load and wire size, you can always change fuse size later, keeping it within the range of expected current and existing wire gauge.
 
The way i understand it the minimum fuse is to keep from having what they call nuisance blows. I'm guessing that means a fuse blowing constantly because of too much load.
Thanks i get it now single and bundled wire.
And i forgot about the sticky thread up top. I've read it alot and forgot all about it. The author has the same setup i do except for loads. So i think i will just follow that. 100 amp fuse block 4awg wire and 100 amp fuse. That is what made sense to me when i looked at the blue sea chart. I think that chart errs on the side of caution becuase other charts say 4awg can take more and some say less. With not being close to full capacity i think that will work for me.
 
Could i get a marine rated battery terminal fuse with 2 fuse slots and hook 1 to the fuse block and 1 to the inverter? Assuming my inverter is under 300 amps(thats the biggest fuse i found). If my inverter is over 300 amos woyld i just go straight to the battery with an inline fuse or i know sometimes the inverter has a fuse built in.
 
Scout said:
Could i get a marine rated battery terminal fuse with 2 fuse slots and hook 1 to the fuse block and 1 to the inverter? Assuming my inverter is under 300 amps(thats the biggest fuse i found). If my inverter is over 300 amos woyld i just go straight to the battery with an inline fuse or i know sometimes the inverter has a fuse built in.

Edit- i mixed up amps and wattage for inverters
 
If the red wire got loose and fell off the inverter with the other end still connected to the battery it might flop around and touch something grounded.  A fuse at the battery could blow and avoid a catastrophe.  A fuse in the inverter would not protect the wire from the battery.
 
There is the problem of increased voltage drop with lower amp fuses as opposed to higher amp fuses. Many DC devises are very much affected by low voltage. Such as my refrigerator, inverter, and charging sources. I want the least voltage drop I can manage to have.
 
You size the CP for the protection you want only.

Either matching the wire, or lower if you know* the max current that circuit will see.

The former is better considering. . .
 
Trebor English said:
If the red wire got loose and fell off the inverter with the other end still connected to the battery it might flop around and touch something grounded.  A fuse at the battery could blow and avoid a catastrophe.  A fuse in the inverter would not protect the wire from the battery.

That makes sense. Is there anything wrong with using the same holder with 2 different fuses? One for the fuse block and one for the inverter?  This is what I was thinking about getting. 
http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-2151-Dual-Terminal-Fuse-Block-for-two-Terminal-Fuses_p_1639.html
 
Weight said:
There is the problem of increased voltage drop with lower amp fuses as opposed to higher amp fuses. Many DC devises are very much affected by low voltage. Such as my refrigerator, inverter, and charging sources. I want the least voltage drop I can manage to have.

I think if I get the 100 amp fuse I shouldn't have that problem. My panel is only rated at 100 amps. I would use 4awg from the battery and my loads are really low but i could expand. I'm running a maxxair fan, dometic cf18, charging a phone and maybe get an inverter for my laptop if i cant use 12v. Also a few leds and maybe an led strip.
 
John61CT said:
You size the CP for the protection you want only.

Either matching the wire, or lower if you know* the max current that circuit will see.

The former is better considering. . .

Cp? Circuit protection?
 
Scout, that's exactly how I have my system hooked up- the inverter to one fuse and the Blue Sea fuse block to the other fuse.
 
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