Flobbery

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Is there an actual “engineered” durometer difference between summer and winter tires? Or is this just some more baseless advertising gimmick like what the motor oil industry has perpetrated upon the public for decades?

Just my thought on more “smoke and mirrors” . . .
 
the "Absent Minded Professor" comes to mind. O wait that was Flubber. highdesertranger
 
A friend lives in Idaho and has snow tires. They are a softer compound and will wear out very fast if driven on dry pavement. Don't know if this fits in with flobbery. I first saw flubbery and then thought snobbery but I ain't right.
 
speedhighway46 said:
Is there an actual “engineered” durometer difference between summer and winter tires? 
[font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]to quote google: What is the difference between all season and winter tires?[/font]

[font=Roboto, arial, sans-serif]"While an all-season tire will get you through the winter with decent traction on snow and ice, a winter tire has a specific (almost always softer) compound designed to remain pliable and enhance traction in cold climates. These same compound traits make a winter tire a poor choice to run during the summer."

[/font]
Most winter tires will wear off the softer stuff during the cold season and then you are on harder stuff during the warm seasons, so they still last a decent amount of time. The Coopers I bought have a life of 55K miles, we will see how they last. I specifically bought the Coopers to have more traction and to access areas near mountains (snow zones here in OR) without using chains. I also carry chains in case I am required to put them on. The 10 ply tires I took off had a life of 40K miles, and failed about 10K early.      ~crofter
 
Zil said:
You will not hear any stupid terms at the tire store. You will hear snow, all weather, highway, off road, racing slick, these are on sale. Go to Tire Rack Dot Com they have a complete description and explanation to make you a smart consumer.
What tire rack has to say about sticky flobbery winter tires: "Today's high tech winter tires utilize tread designs and features such as the multicell rubber compound in the Bridgestone Blizzak to give you traction in snow and ice that is considerably better than what you can achieve from all-season tires."    ~crofter
 
highdesertranger said:
the "Absent Minded Professor" comes to mind.  O wait that was Flubber.  highdesertranger
Should have named the thread  " A thread about tire characteristics, load rating, and winter driving"  Must have been absent minded that day.    ~crofter
 
I asked about this with my friend who works at a tire shop. (This is in Phoenix) He confirms that, indeed, snow region temperatures and desert region temperatures require different compositions of rubber.

For instance, here in Phoenix, where it can exceed 120F in the summer, the road itself can get as hot as 170F. But the tires themselves are not only likely to get up to that, but because of friction, can get close to 200F. At temps like that, your rubber needs to be of a certain firmness and lack of pliability just to keep from melting. The fact that they will get hot is engineered into the complex composition they are made of, and in fact allows for a hot weather tire to soften slightly in these conditions.

But just like putting a licorice stick in the fridge will make it less pliable and bendy,...so too will cold make rubber stiffer than at room temp. So winter tires have to be engineered to be inherently softer and more flexible and pliable. If not, they would be prone to splitting and shredding,...not unlike some of those tires seem to do in the summer. According to my tire friend, those tire carcasses we see here locally are usually cold weather tires that people didn't think to remove and replace when they drove into Arizona.
 
Another good reason to be a snow bird :)
 
who here remembers the old bias ply tires in winter. in the morning they would have a flat spot from sitting overnight, they would vibrate the hell out of you for a couple miles until they warmed up and got pliable again. the heavier duty the tire the worse this was. highdesertranger
 
I remember the bias ply tires well. Then we got belted and ended up with radial. Makes me wonder what will be the next evolution.
 
Pleasant Travels said:
I asked about this with my friend who works at a tire shop. (This is in Phoenix) He confirms that, indeed, snow region temperatures and desert region temperatures require different compositions of rubber.

For instance, here in Phoenix, where it can exceed 120F in the summer, the road itself can get as hot as 170F. But the tires themselves are not only likely to get up to that, but because of friction, can get close to 200F. At temps like that, your rubber needs to be of a certain firmness and lack of pliability just to keep from melting. The fact that they will get hot is engineered into the complex composition they are made of, and in fact allows for a hot weather tire to soften slightly in these conditions.
Here is a survey of the top SUV tires, but does not discuss heat. Do you have a reccomendation for summer desert travel?
-crofter

Description: link to review of tires with load range e rating.
https://tirereviewsandmore.com/top-10-load-range-e-truck-tires/
 
Today I ordered 5 new tires they will be here tomorrow I will have them put on Saturday.

If anyone has an opinion I would like to hear it. If these are garbage or insufficient please let me know. I just kind of went with their suggestions. They gave a high a mid and a low.. I took the mid. I assume it si plenty fine. I did the Les Schwab thang.

LT225/75R-16/10 115/112R Terramax HT

I have no idea what those numbers all mean they are just printed on my order slip.

Any thoughts?.... Are these Flobbery ??? :)
 
crofter said:
The old tires finally gave out and due to winter travel in the north, I put some Cooper Discoverer mud and snow 10 plys on the van. They are very sure in the cold and wet so far, but are not as stiff in handling as the previous ones. I did not go with the studs, so I can leave them on longer.    ~crofter
This set of tires still going strong, and no real problems in the AZ summer heat altho I do drive like an old lady.

Here is a review for Falken tire which has the snow mark rating ( no chains needed for snow).

 
To go with the tires you might want one of these, a battery operated air pump. I got mine as a bonus included with a ryobi battery drill and I love it. Great for doing those cold tire pressure checks, the pump will handle many cycles of inflations before recharge is needed. Batteries interchange with the other ryobi tools.  -crofter

https://www.ryobitools.com/power-to...or-kit-with-15-ah-battery-and-18-volt-charger
 
In 2017 I picked up 4 salvage yard wheels & orderd a set of FireStone WinterForce tires, There were higher rated (Consumer Report) LT winter tires but those were the only ones studable, Had the local tire store swap them on last week for the winter, A month early but we've already had one heavy snow (before Halloween) and the noise is small compared to the safety, You people wintering in the extrem S.W. are lucky to not have to deal with ice, DOT clears the snow but leaves 6in of ice for 1 to 100 mile stretces (that may stay on the road a week or more at a time), Back on point , Should have bought studed snow tires 30 years ago , I love Flobbery tires
 
Seasons changing. Here is a chart to check the correct inflation for your tires. 

https://tirepressure.com/lt225-75r16-tire-pressure

I am running LT225/75R16 load range E on the ProMaster, and I need 80 PSI for a load of 2680 pounds. At 70 PSI load will carry only 2200 pounds, and goes down from there as your tire goes flat.

Real world, my handheld pump does not like to pump that much pressure and heats up, so looking for a better one (battery pump 18 volt).
-crofter
 
I'd like to know about a small pump that can pump a volume of air at 70-80 psi into a light truck tire.
The last 5-10 psi are the hardest.
 
I carry the Ryobi hand held for anything under 40PSI and then only run it 5 minutes at a time as the hose connection tends to get hot enough to melt the hose. If you let it cool it 5 minutes it does fine. I do get the extended replacement warranty on any Ryobi tool. Anything over 40PSI I keep a larger 12 volt compressor from Harbor Freight for emergencies and check tires before leaving with my 2 gallon stationary compressor at home or the free one at the park's gas station. Ryobi has come out with an 18 volt small compressor with a tank which would allow it to build up pressure quicker but it would still take several cycles to get to 80PSI. I like having the handhelds as they are light and don't take up much space and will do the job good enough in an emergency given enough time to cool between uses. A lot of off roaders used to convert the old upright Air Conditioning compressors to use for onboard air, with a large reservoir tank you can even run air tools with those for a little bit. Most of the small 110 volt 2 gallon compressors will work with a generator and get the job done as most of those go to 100PSI.
 
Top