Filling Van Cavities in the Ribs

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Radar

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Help!  And thank you.  I have a Dodge Promaster high top.  There are lots of open cavities in the ribs and along the floor - big ones along the floor.  Wondering what I might fill them with - and why they are there along the floor.  I do not want to block something I'm unaware of.

I will not use spray foam so that's off the table.  I have a bunch of loose wool that I was considering. 

Thoughts anyone?
 
I think they are all part of the engineering.....added for structural integrity/strength. You could throw a piece of 1/2" plywood on the floor to level it out if you have enough height with the high top. Then cover the plywood with the flooring of your choice or paint it or stain and urethane it.
 
I have no knowledge of the Promaster. I fitted 1/2 inch foil faced ridged foam insulation between the ribs on the side walls. That was layered with 3/4 inch pink ridged foam. Then the grained ply wood for a finish. Did something similar on the floor. I am doing the roof next and have some other ideas. Loose insulation will trap moisture and not have good insulation value.
 
As ERLH said, they're probably for structural integrity, but the ridges may also be to reduce drag, like if you were sliding furniture toward the rear door; if the raised parts comprised one-half or one-third of the floor area, presumably that would reduce the amount of drag by half or two-thirds.

Here's what one person did, but it seems like a lot of extra work, time and expense for little overall payback: http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Vehicles/PMRV/Floor.htm

He (I'm assuming) filled in the depressions and topped them with a flat layer of foamboard insulation, probably to prevent the flat piece from sinking, but with the solid sheet of plywood over the sheet of insulation, there wouldn't be any pressure pushing downward SPECIFICALLY over the low spots.

Do what EveryRoad suggested above and save time, money and effort.
 
Thanks for the responses.  I probably was not clear now that I look back and see the responses.  lol  My floor is in so it isn't the floor 'cavities' I'm referring to.  I'm wondering about the openings that run along both sides of the ProMaster at the bottom.  They are quite deep and there is moisture (not wet at all) at the bottom.  I'm wondering if they could be some kind of channel where moisture in the van ends up and then drains out somewhere underneath.  I don't know, but did not want to fill them up with something only to find out they need to remain open.  

If anyone has knowledge of that, let me know please.  

Otherwise, thanks again for responding.
 
2 ideas I heard of is to fill the void up with packing peanuts or bean bag foam pellets. just make sure they are not the water soluble type. you would want to tape up the holes as you fill the ribs. highdesertranger
 
highdesertranger said:
2 ideas I heard of is to fill the void up with packing peanuts or bean bag foam pellets.  just make sure they are not the water soluble type.  you would want to tape up the holes as you fill the ribs.  highdesertranger

OK, thanks.  I'll look into that.
 
Can you see if there are any drain holes in those areas, looking from underneath?
 
there are no open drain holes to the outside of any modern vehicle. if there where exhaust gas could come in. highdesertranger
 
We're getting into 'magic' territory here....

If vans are known to 'sweat' inside, where is the moisture supposed to go? Or do the mfgrs assume that it will evaporate by itself?
 
regular vans don't have people inside with the doors and windows closed so you really don't have a moisture problem. with conversion vans or class B's I don't think the upfitters really care. highdesertranger
 
I also have  a Pro Master high top,  what i did was insulated the sides and roof with 1 1/2 foam board then covered with luan.  for the cavities you are talking about i just used Flex Seal in there to keep mosture off the medal on other insulation put the plastic plugs back over the holes .  did the same at the back corners where the wiring and tail light accest is.    the cavities along the upper wall along the roof used Flex Seal . and the pink fiberglass insulation...       Flex Seal  comes in spray cans and brush on  i used both when doing mine.
 
hein that's pretty neat. what would be the cost of material for that job? highdesertranger
 
Thinsulate(TM) is not the cheapest material but is specifically engineered for use in vehicles.
It is safe, easy to install and doesn't require any other noise or thermal insulation products.
A typical van requires between 30 and 50 linear feet (150-250 sq ft) at a cost of $200-500
depending on the thickness used. SM400L is ~1" thick and SM600L is ~1 3/4". We used ~45
linear feet of SM600L for our Transit SWB medium roof van.

We stock and sell Thinsulate(TM) to DIY and professional up-fitters.
 
hein said:
Thinsulate(TM) is not the cheapest material but is specifically engineered for use in vehicles.
It is safe, easy to install and doesn't require any other noise or thermal insulation products.
A typical van requires between 30 and 50 linear feet (150-250 sq ft) at a cost of $200-500
depending on the thickness used.  SM400L is ~1" thick and SM600L is ~1 3/4". We used ~45
linear feet of SM600L for our Transit SWB medium roof van.

We stock and sell Thinsulate(TM) to DIY and professional up-fitters.

And do you have a website or contact information?
 
You can send PM, email, call or visit our ebay store
All the best,
Hein
Impact, Inc.
Hood River, OR
54l 49O 5O98
http://stores.ebay.com/impactproducts
(not sure posting a commercial link is allowed here. Mods please feel free to remove it)
 
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