Filling holes in the floor

[AbuelaLoca]

I'm putting this in insulation because we need to fill the holes before we install the floors and insulate the walls of our vehicles, but if it fits in a better topic, please move it Mods!!

From BradKW's thread https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Scout-the-Van-95-Dodge-Ram-High-Top?pid=302249#pid302249 :

"... those look like slide hammer hole. drilled through the sheet metal to pull a dent out. if that's the case they should have been filled after the dent was pulled. there a 2 ways to fill them, welding or bondo. if you need help with te proper way to do them ask away. highdesertranger"

HDR and those who have already filled holes, would you mind chiming in with how it should be done? This is something I'm going to need soon! If at all possible, would love simple instructions!

 

[djkeev]

The absolute best way to fill holes is by welding them up, apply a primer and a top coat to prevent rust.

Now many / most of you do not own a welder nor do you have the cash to hire someone tobweld them for you.

Avoid the temptation to grab a $5 can of Bondo and smear some into the holes. Will it fill them? Absolutely!
But......
Bondo absorbs moisture, as in humidity. It won't take long until rust forms around you bondo plug.

Spend a few dollars more and pick up a tube of Auto Body Panel Adhesive. This stuff is AMAZING!!! When cured it is absolutely water proof and it is NEVER coming off!

If the holes are small, back the hole with a piece of tape (prevents the adhesive from dripping off the patch) and smear a dollop over the hole.
If the holes are larger, still use some backer tape but also use a piece of metal on the top of the hole. Metal plugs from electric boxes work Grrrrrrreart!!! They are found in various sizes too.

Lacking metal plugs? (Ssh....... dimes, nickels and quarters work excellent)

After the adhesive dries, prime and paint. That hole is sealed FOREVER!!!!

Dave

 

[highdesertranger]

on your floor it really doesn't matter because you can't see them, it's not cosmetic. gluing coins or pieces of metal down is fine. the holes I was talking about go to the outside of the side wall. I think they do anyway. if that's the case you kinda want it to look decent.

so for visible holes,
first you can weld them but this is a lot of work. get yourself a piece of copper water pipe works about 4 inches long. cut it length wise and open it up. what you are trying to do is make a flat piece of copper. clean the paint off around the hole and clamp the copper on the backside over the hole. then take your MIG welder and fill the hole in. the copper makes this easy don't get the sheet metal to hot it will warp. keep a wet rag handy to cool the metal. the weld will not stick to the copper. then thoroughly sand off all paint that got burned from the welding front and back and smooth the weld down to match the sheet metal. don't get the sheet metal to hat or it will warp. a little Bondo or spotting putty might be needed especially if you are a rookie. then prime and paint both sides.

Bondo is much easier but if not done correctly will fail. on the out side that you can see is your finished side sand the paint off around the hole to bare metal. Use a course paper less then 50. you want to scratch the metal. leave the inside alone no need to sand the inside because no heat is used. now come the trick part, take a super small ball peen hammer and a socket slightly bigger then the head of the rounded end of the hammer. this is where you need 3 hands or be real accurate with the hammer. hold the socket centered over the hole and either lightly freehand tap the hole to indent it just slightly. if you are not good with a hammer have someone hold the socket and put the hammer in place against the hole and lightly tap it with another hammer a dead blow works best. you are shooting for a slight dimple. then when you apply the Bondo form the outside you push it through the hole. if you could pop it out when dried out it would look like a flatten Hershey Kiss. then sand it flat, use finish putty, seal, prime, and paint.

on my truck I removed the molding a badges. in the old days this was actually bolted/screwed down so I had a bunch of holes on both sides. one side I welded the holes on the other side I Bondo them. so far both sides have held up fine. BTW I removed all the trim because I got tried of ripping it off while off roading. hope this helps highdesertranger

 

[BradKW]

Not sure how I got dragged into this, I don't even have a reply posted in that thread

 

[highdesertranger]

just cuz. highdesertranger

 

[AbuelaLoca]

Sorry... thought you started that thread, Brad??

 

[AbuelaLoca]

Well, hell... Sorry, Brad! It was bkrunaway's thread. I'll be in time-out...

 

[MrNoodly]

I helped a friend re-do his conversion van. There were holes in the floor from captain's chairs and other things. After looking for various types of plugs, slugs, bolts and other ways to deal with the holes -- all of them stupidly expensive -- I grabbed a tube of construction adhesive and my spare change jar. Glue and coins.

 

[highdesertranger]

Abuela Loca no need to apologize just flash your stinkin badge. highdesertranger

 

[bkrunaway]

@AbuelaLoca looks like we're at a similar spot. Also trying to fill holes + fix rust before insulating. Let me know how it goes on your end!

Thanks for all the input everyone!

 

[Gideon33w]

You can get sealed rubber grommets in virtually any size imaginable, they flex to fit, are watertight, and don't absorb moisture.
Heck, I bet you can find a variety pack on Amazon for $10. Just be sure to get ones with the inside sealed and there you go.
Go look at the spare tire well in the trunk of a car and you'll find a 1" hole sealed with a rubber grommet from the factory.

 

[VanKitten]

I have used marine tex.

It is intended for below the water line on aluminum boats.

It is also sandable.

I am using it for small holes in the floor.

 

[bkrunaway]

@highdesertstranger what product do you use for the "seal" step of "seal, prime, and paint"?

 

[highdesertranger]

primer sealer. like this,

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/primer-sealer/

if you don't seal the Bondo it looks funny when you top coat it, because the Bondo absorbs the top coat different then the sheet metal. that is a simplified explanation. highdesertranger