Easier tire changing for me

[user 423]

Here's pics of a couple of things I've done to make it easier to raise my van and change tires.

Last year I had to deal with frozen/broken bolts on my water pump and bought a cheaper battery-powered impact wrench to try to extract them. It didn't work so well but now I have some help when I need to remove my wheels.

I've had a compound drive scissor jack for many years but it was a pain to use with the short crank it came with. The jack is geared down to give more lifting power but it takes many more rotations to raise and lower it.

A couple of years ago I found a large (1-7/16") socket that fit the crank end of the jack perfectly. I then could use adapters and a ratchet to crank the jack and that was much easier. But now I have the impact driver to do the same and of course it is much easier yet.

Actually, I do the main lifting with a hydraulic bottle jack under the axle but then place the scissor jack under there next to it for safety.

The impact driver is used on the lugnuts also but just to speed them off or on. I still use the 4-way wrench to break them. I'm not as robust as I used to be so I have a cheater pipe and it helps to put the end of the 4-way on a jack stand to keep it straight. The jack stand ratchets up or down to match the height of the lugnuts.

 

[B and C]

I got rid of the 4 way and now use a long breaker bar, 3" extension and socket. The long breaker bar works way better at breaking those lugnuts loose and retorquing them. I just straighten out the breaker bar and twist by hand to remove and replace the lugnuts. Use your impact driver to speed removal and running them down.

 

[bullfrog]

The 4 way with a jack stand works better for me as it keeps me from breaking off lugs when a breaker bar gets out of alignment. I have several blocks of wood as well I can stack up on uneven ground to rest the 4 way on. I use my battery impact to run the lug nuts on and off to save my energy but always hand torque the nuts going back on as my skills spinning a 4 way are not as good as when I was younger. Remember you can warp a rotor if you accidently over torque a wheel on a disc brake.

 

[B and C]

I just put the heel of my left hand on the breaker bar joint to keep it from moving when loosening and grab it when tightening.. Never had a problem.

Using a too long extension could be a problem.

 

[Weight]

Lug nuts should be torqued to proper settings. It is easy to warp a rotor on modern vehicles. Or worse, have wheel come loose.

 

[B and C]

Tourquing lug nuts should be done in a criss cross pattern and in increments.

Most people probably don't have the experience to gauge relative torque with out a torque wrench. I've had a wrench in my hand since 14 when I helped a friend rebuild his 265 CID 55 chevy V8 engine. I've never warped a rotor (or drum) or had a wheel come loose. YMMV

If you don't have the experience, get a torque wrench or go to a tire shop.

 

[user 423]

....get a torque wrench or go to a tire shop.

Yeah, a tire shop with an air impact wrench that's either uncalibrated or they use the wrong setting..LOL 

I wonder how many rotors they've warped?  

An old Sears beam version does the job for me.

 

[B and C]

When the tire shop replaced the tires on my Geo Convertible, the lug nuts were supposed to be torqued to 85 ft lbs. They broke two studs before they caught on. I guess if you do 135 Ft lbs all day...

I think they have a regulator on the air hoses to get close to the 135 ft lbs most vehicles take and then use a torque wrench to double check they are at least that tight. I might be mistaken on the regulator.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

Lug nuts should be torqued to proper settings. It is easy to warp a rotor on modern vehicles. Or worse, have wheel come loose.

Tourquing lug nuts should be done in a criss cross pattern and in increments . . .

If your rotor is also the hub warping is easy.  If the rotor is sandwiched between the hub and wheel torquing is not as important, but still best practice.  An exploded view of your brakes will show which you have.

Pattern to tighten lug nuts should be explained in your owners manual, as is the torque required.

Antisieze should be used on the lug studs.  It is very hard to get a consistent torque on studs that are rusty and grabbing.
You should also recheck the torque ~ 100 miles after initial tightening.

I NEVER trust a tire shop to get the correct torque.

 

[Matlock]

Here's pics of a couple of things I've done to make it easier to raise my van and change tires.

Good stuff that... thanks.

And to comments regarding the use of a torque wrench, I've never had a tire shop or a dealership use a torque wrench. I've been asking after a tire change or brake work what did they torque the nuts to? Every time the answer has been the same, "we don't use one" and "if we did they'd just break it or "our impacts are calibrated". Yes indeed, I'm sure they are not calibrated. There are procedures for calibration and I'll bet 95% of those places do not have a clue. Anyone ever try to calibrate one and then try to remove rusted nuts. Is the reverse torque the same as a tighten torque?

Mechanic's bring their own tools typically, and no two brands are the same from a regulated, and fluctuating air supply. Just way to many variables. If you can warp yer rotors then buy and use your own calibrated torque wrench. That way you know.

just my ol 2¢

 

[bullfrog]

There are extensions called torque sticks usually color coded for impact wrenches that torque in a general range that used to be used by many shops to save time, not near as accurate as a calibrated torque wrench in my opinion. Many shops have stopped using them due to liability I believe.

 

[B and C]

I have a longstanding relationship with Discount Tire even if it has been different shops. As soon as my vehicle goes in I always stand outside the bay to watch. They have always snugged with impact and torqued with a wrench.

 

[LoupGarou]

I can’t remember when I last changed a tire, but I’ve plugged many while the wheel was still mounted to the vehicle.

You might consider carrying both a plug kit and a decent air compressor.

 

[bullfrog]

I also carry several plug kits and an air compressor. Of course since my tools are Ryobi their 18 volt air compressor with a guage as well. I use them often but would still rather have punctures repaired with an interior patch. Tire road hazard has replaced tires for me at a reduced cost after I believe 3 emergency plugs so check with your tire dealer before you buy if like me you get lots of punctures and cuts.

 

[maki2]

Advice from the Tire review website which says DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE on lug nuts.

"If you apply any friction-modifying substance, like oil or anti-seize to threads, it is going to change the measured torque values. This is because the threads use friction between the two fasteners to clamp the two parts together. With less friction on the threads, torque values actually increase. So, when you tighten a wheel to 85 ft.-lbs, it may actually be torqued at 95 ft.-lbs (this includes torque wrenches and sticks) or more depending on how slick the lubricant was that was put on the studs.

The increase in force will mean that the studs will stretch under the increased torque. This stretching can lead to metal fatigue and changes in thread geometry. The Subaru driver had the car for three years. After a few tire rotations and maybe a few too many hits with an impact, the stud was ready to break."

here is the link to the article:
https://www.tirereview.com/bad-advice-for-lug-nuts/

 

[user 423]

^
Yes, I agree. My '93 Ford factory manual says to use no oil or grease on threads but says nothing about anti-sieze.

However, on a Ford forum a 30-year employee of a municipal garage explained why anti-sieze shouldn't be used.

There is much conflicting advice online about using it.

That said, if I lived in the rust belt I would use some kind of light lubrication or anti-sieze but very sparingly.

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

Advice from the Tire review website which says DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE on lug nuts.
 . . .
here is the link to the article:
https://www.tirereview.com/bad-advice-for-lug-nuts/

You can do what you want; I don't want to get into a pissing match.  But as an engineer for 40 years I both tested and specified torques on industrial equipment, so I think I know what I am talking about.

  There are two gross inaccuracies in Mr. Markel's article:

First, torques are set assuming little or no friction between stud and nut.  Adding lube will not make the torque be higher.  Conversely, compromised threads (rust, dirt, bent, etc.) will give you a false actual torque reading.  Don't believe me?  Get a rusty bolt and nut and try to screw them together, compare to a new bolt/nut.  Torques are additive, so your final torque = lug stretch + frictional drag from compromised threads.  This won't be a problem until you twist off a stud while trying to change a flat.

Second, the whole purpose of a torque spec is to give the correct amount of stretch to the stud.  This is one of two mechanisms that hold the nut from coming loose (the other is the static friction between the wheel and nut).  The torque spec, as mentioned above, is set assuming little friction between threads.  Rule of thumb used to be the specified torque be no more than 1/2 the yield strength of the stud. So you have to be way off to damage the stud.

If you travel in corrosive environments, I would use antisieze -- never had a lug nut come loose in 60 years, including race cars.  I just don't see the mechanism for antisieze increasing the odds of a nut coming loose.  If you are worried about getting equal torques on all studs antisieze will increase your chances.

 

[Weight]

The modern specification is to use light lubricant on lugs. Anti-seize is a light lubricant.