E Bicycle. I want one

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^^ You can haul a small family on one? Impressive! :) ^^
 
Itripper said:
 ...  If you want pure utility, and don't mind the noise, a scooter is cheaper and can do more than an ebike, except a scooter is a motor vehicle so cannot go places motor vehicles are prohibited, an ebike can. ...

Good post. Can you give some examples of where you would take an e-bike that a scooter can't go?

Tom
 
I am so sick of you people who have come here to fight and prove how right you are and how wrong others are. We can't have a simple thread without arguing and bickering--it's ridiculous.

It's going to stop.

I'm totally ready to start putting you on moderation.

IF YOUR POST ISN'T GOING TO BE HELFUL AND CONSTRUCTIVE--DON'T POST IT.

Fighting over meaningless facts is not acceptable here.

Post here and tell me what a monster I am and how wrong I am and you do go on moderation. You've already hijacked and derailed a very useful thread and you aren't going to make it even worse. You obviously have no idea what this forum is all about.

You can email me and at ak rv bob at g mail dot com and tell me if you need to.
 
Vagabound said:
Good post. Can you give some examples of where you would take an e-bike that a scooter can't go?

Tom

An ebike can go anyplace a normal bicycle can go, for example the boardwalks along the beaches, Yosemite main park where motor vehicles are prohibited, pedestrian/bike only city centers, or just going down the aisles at quartzite no need to park and walk far with your stuff, bring the bike right to the store and pack it there.

If you have a bike that you really love all ready and have setup the way you like you can build your own ebike out of it. For around $800 you can build your own bike into a very nice custom. The simplest way is get a front direct drive hub kit (~$350-$400) and a 48V lithium battery (~$450), don't get less than 36V. You will have a bike with more range, power and speed than any commercial model under $4000. The bike may technically be illegal as it will be too fast if you use max power (~34 MPH), just ride at slower, reasonable speeds and nobody will know or care.

Two recommendations I have for parts are Luna Cycles for batteries and Golden Motor for direct drive hubs. (Luna Cycles carries Golden Motor Hubs)

There are three different types of ebike motors:
Direct drive: A very simple electromagnetic motor with no moving parts -VERY RELIABLE. This is what my bike has, you can tell by the huge pancake style hub. Typically these come in 500 watt and 1000 watt versions. I recommend the 500 watt as the 1000 watt has the potential to rip out of the bike mounts due to too much torque.

Geared drive: A much smaller pancake motor that has gears to multiply the torque, makes for a compact and stealthy hub, these types on the rear of a bike are not very noticeable and an be hidden by your panniers/bags, if you disguise your battery also people will not know you are on an ebike. The cheaper commercial bikes all use geared hubs.  They are less reliable than the direct drives due to plastic reduction gears, but I personally did not have a problem with the one I had. These just look like fat bike hubs. Normally 350 watt (This is the minimum you would want).

Mid drive: These are an external motor that blts on near the bottom bracket of the bike, some work and mechanical skills to install, an absolute must if you consistently ride up very steep hills or mountain bike type offroading.  This is an external motor that is driven thru you chain drive so you can shift gears just like a manual transmission on a car.  Very powerful. This type will wear out your driveline much faster (think applying 4x the power a human can thru your driveline). Normally 750 to 1000 watt.

I have a direct drive 1000 watt Golden Motor Hub on the front with large braces on the forks to prevent the motor front ripping off the front dropouts.  If you install a motor on the front wheel bigger than 350 watts you need the beef up plates and should use a STEEL fork, not aluminum. The beef up plates are available at the ebike motor retailer.

A benefit of the front wheel drive is when boondocking your bike is a 2 wheel drive vehicle, rear wheels powered by you and front wheel powered by motor, it offroads extremely well, with fat tires you can go right thru sandy washes.

The electric hub will make it a HUGE pain to change a flat, get good tires, thick tubes, and install thorn proof tire liners.

Finally, spend the $100 on a huge Kryptonite New York D lock or Chain Lock, or someone will steal your bike.  Do not ever use cable locks, anyone with a small pair of wire cutters can cut any cable lock within a minute discretely. Watch a YouTube video on how to properly lock your bike.

There are a lot more ebikes around than you think, most are not noticeable, they are very popular with the retiree crowd.  People who previously could no longer ride bikes due to surgeries, health problems or injuries are now riding again thanks to ebikes.

BTW SONDORS EBIKES ARE ONLY $500 THEY ARE AN EXCEPTIONAL DEAL! A GOOD WAY TO TEST THE WATERS!
 
Itripper, thanks for the info...

What sort of range do you typically get on yours? I see range quoted as 20-50 miles but what do you typically see? Is there a gauge or meter to indicate remaining range?

I figure you dont want to run the battery down on the outbound leg of a trip, so a 20 mile range might mean no more than say, a 5 to 8 mile one way out, then enough to get you home with some reserve.

And how long does it take to charge your battery back to full charge?

Also, how easy is it to pedal if the battery DOES die?

Is there some drag from a front hub pancake motor if there is no power to run it?

I have never even ridden an e-bike so I'm learning too.

Thanks.
 
CautionToTheWind said:
RoamingKat- Today I came across this 3-guy run business in Seattle. 4 options; one of which is foldable. The RadWagon is pretty 'rad.' ;) https://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/radmini-electric-folding-fat-bike?variant=16685709569

All units appear to top out at 20 mph and 20-40 mile range.

I have seen several radwagons around now, they are a great ebike. The cargo bike platform is the best for hauling a LOT of items.  The BIG drawback to cargo bikes is they are much bigger and the bike will hang off both sides of a van/car and a very heavy if you need to pick it up to load it on a rack.

BTW that electric folding fat bike you linked looks like the IDEAL compact ebike for full timers, I am really impressed by the fat tires and small dimensions with a lot of cargo racks.

[img=640x480]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0799/9645/products/Mini_Black_RightSide.jpg?v=1488487835[/img]
 
ITripper....

I saw that one at the store. I cannot lift it.

I have picked one out I like. But, it is not for off road. Meaning it does not have those fat tires.
I don't mean it to ride off into the back and beyond anyway. Just want to take it to run errands when driving the rig is a nuance.

I'll take a pix of the one I want....post it here later.
 
I bookmarked the rad bike, if my atv proves too much trouble to mess with that might work. Thanks for posting the site.
 
bullfrog said:
Check out the Fat Tire Electric Tadpole Trike.  Close to $3,000 delivered so I guess I'll wait and rebuild my Baja Bug once again.

Same thing for me (except the Baja Bug), I want a Townie Go! but at $2600 it's just too spendy.  It would be awesome on a rear rack though, set up camp and take the e-bike to the store or to just visit around the campsite.

I have the non-E version of this bike (just called a Townie), I love it but there are days when pedaling distance isn't always possible.
 
Itripper said:
An ebike can go anyplace a normal bicycle can go, for example ...

BTW SONDORS EBIKES ARE ONLY $500 THEY ARE AN EXCEPTIONAL DEAL! A GOOD WAY TO TEST THE WATERS!

Superb post, ltripper. Thanks for all of the good info and clear explanations.

Tom
 
Itripper said:
BTW that electric folding fat bike you linked looks like the IDEAL compact ebike for full timers, I am really impressed by the fat tires and small dimensions with a lot of cargo racks.

[img=640x480]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0799/9645/products/Mini_Black_RightSide.jpg?v=1488487835[/img]

I have my eye on this one, for SURE! Options come with panniers; and I believe they are working on a design on the rear wheel like the radwagon to prevent the bags from scuffing the tire. Two USB ports; one on battery and another on the digital display center of handlebars. The front tire is a quick-disconnect to lessen the weight for lifting.
 
tx2sturgis said:
Itripper, thanks for the info...

What sort of range do you typically get on yours? I see range quoted as 20-50 miles but what do you typically see? Is there a gauge or meter to indicate remaining range?
I get 20 miles pure electric (@ 30 MPH), I am 240 lbs and the bike is heavy, some one lighter would get more. If I use the throttle to partially assist with my pedaling, I can get from 30 - 100 miles, depends on how much extra power I want to add. Typically I will get 50 miles. There is a Bluetooth android app that shows power, or I could get an lcd display. I use the power assist mostly on hills now and use it minimally on flat ground. My bike has a cruise control that I can set for the amount of amps/assist I want, I usually put it on a low number like 4 amps, which is good for me to cruise at 18 MPH (about the speed of a fast road biker) with me pedaling at what feels like a 10 MPH pace. My battery is 14.8 amp hours, so that gives me safely 3 hours of assist.

I figure you dont want to run the battery down on the outbound leg of a trip, so a 20 mile range might mean no more than say, a 5 to 8 mile one way out, then enough to get you home with some reserve.
Yes you have to get to know your bike, it does not take long to get a good feel for how far you can go on a particular ebike.

And how long does it take to charge your battery back to full charge?
2 Hours on fast charge, 8 on slow, slow is best.

Also, how easy is it to pedal if the battery DOES die?
The bike is surprisingly easy to pedal without assist, other than on hills where you really feel the weight.

Is there some drag from a front hub pancake motor if there is no power to run it?
There is a minor amount of drag on the front hub, very small, I do not notice it. This style of hub does have regeneration ability too when you brake, it only adds about 5% additional range though for me. It would be more on long downhills. The regen does save the brake pads, as the regen alone slows the bike a lot when applied via slight pressure on the brake lever. You cannot practically recharge the battery by using the regen and pedaling, it is way too much effort for the amount of power returned to the battery, only useful for down hills or braking.

I have never even ridden an e-bike so I'm learning too.

Thanks.
 
RoamingKat said:
ITripper....

I saw that one at the store.   I cannot lift it.  

I have picked one out I like.  But, it is not for off road.  Meaning it does not have those fat tires.  
I don't mean it to ride off into the back and beyond anyway.   Just want to take it to run errands when driving the rig is a nuance.

I'll take a pix of the one I want....post it here later.

Usually you can install tires one or two sizes fatter than factory ones. For fire roads/blm land dirt roads just get the fattest dirt tire you can fit on stock rim and run the air pressure at 30 psi, the tires will cushion bumps well and not so skittish.
 
CautionToTheWind said:
I have my eye on this one, for SURE! Options come with panniers; and I believe they are working on a design on the rear wheel like the radwagon to prevent the bags from scuffing the tire. Two USB ports; one on battery and another on the digital display center of handlebars. The front tire is a quick-disconnect to lessen the weight for lifting.

BTW for lifting it is a bike, just grab the brake lever for the rear tire, pull back on handlebars to lift front wheel up and pivot it onto the bike rack, then lift the rear up after you have the front wheel in bike carrier. Kinda hard to explain, but you only need to lift half the bike weight at a time to get it on bike rack. Plus I always remove the battery first.
 
I just spent an hour on that Radbike site, wow, much more affordable and seems to be well built. It would certainly alleviate the need for a toad in many cases. I'm thinking that cargo version would be awesome for around town as well.
 
Queen said:
I just spent an hour on that Radbike site, wow, much more affordable and seems to be well built.  It would certainly alleviate the need for a toad in many cases.  I'm thinking that cargo version would be awesome for around town as well.

I have seen seen several of those around Tucson, the owners are very happy with them. Excellent bike for carrying  A LOT of stuff. About 1/2 the cost of what it cost me to build mine, an excellent deal @ $1600. Just remember they are WIDE on the back of a vehicle, good for RVs, will stick out both sides on a car a lot, a little on vans/trucks.
[img=640x480]https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0799/9645/products/RadWagon_3qtr_front.jpg?v=1495480795[/img]
 
I am moving back to the condo in Florida, that bike would be perfect for running to the beach, farmers market, grocery shopping, etc.
 
Queen said:
I am moving back to the condo in Florida, that bike would be perfect for running to the beach, farmers market, grocery shopping, etc.

I use mine constantly for shopping, going to farmers market, sightseeing, supplies when boondocking, same as your plans.
 
Itripper thanks for answering my questions up there. ^

And thanks to the OP, RoamingKat, for starting the thread too!

I really like the idea of having surface transport when camped, but I've always relied on bringing a motorcycle.

The e-bike idea means less maintenance, easier cartage, and zero licensing and insurance costs.

Not to mention less expensive up-front and probably, safer in the long run. 

Most of the time my travel to and from the 'mother ship' while camped is within 20 miles, but I could always reel that in and reduce the distance to 5 miles or less in most cases.

Again, thanks...you got me thinking....
 
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