Looks like loads of fun <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img">. That's one thing I like about PU's, they're much 'easier' to pull and engine out of than a van. What do they pay per ton for scrap up your way?
Doin' the big NASTY engine swap!!
- Thread starter Willy
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I don't rightly know; somewhere between $100-$200. Despite PU's being easier to work on, in some respects, getting to the tranny bolts is a total nightmare. A step van would be the way to go. ..Willy.
wrcsixeight
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I would not recommend Lucas motor oils or engine additives. Their products are marketed wonderfully, but when Virgin or used oil analysis's are looked at, they do not compare to , or hold up well to the other name brand oils out there, in many cases they barely fall within the minimum or maximum allowable for a certain weight.<br><br>They tend to be low on detergents, Antiwear and extreme pressure additives. Generally unimpressive when compared to any other oil when looking at a virgin oil analysis.<br><br>It is not the group number of the "synthetic" oils that is important, it is the blend, and most quality Syns have blends of group 3( HIghly refined mineral oil) group 4 (Polyalfaolefins), and group5 (esters)<br><br>If you are looking at a group 5 only oil, Redline, and you will pay dearly for it.<br><br>You apparently like thick oil, I'd go with some Shell Rotella for the high detergent and high ZDDP.<br><br>I got some Mobil1 0w-40 in my 318. It is by far the quietest oil I have yet used in my engine, and is 24$ for 5 quarts at wally world here in the lower 48, I know BC is more.<br><br>Steer clear of the Lucas "oil stabilizer" this is just an oil thickener which has NO additives, and will just dilute the additives blended into the motor oil. If you want thicker oil, Buy thicker oil. The oil stabilizer is the used car salesman's best friend. It will raise oil pressure and quieten down engines on their last legs, but mostly it just foams the oil and contributes to more wear.<br><br>Nice job on the engine swap. It is a huge undertaking, one I would not have the confidence, or tools to undertake.
The thing that sux about swapping the engine is that there are sooooo many 'hidden' nuts 'n bolts to find, and some are near frozen in; gotta really hate that steel/aluminum contact. One reason I'd like to get a step van is that I DO have tons of tools, and I'd like to have stuff like that engine hoist with me. This kinda re. & re. & re. would probably set me back a grand or more if someone else were to do it. seeing as I'm on disability time, I've got nothing but.. and it helps keep me in shape.<br> <br> One little rant I'd like to make is regarding Haynes manuals.. they're <strong>CRAP</strong>! Pure unadulterated <strong>CRAP. </strong>I'm gonna do some lookin' and, hopefully, come up with a Motor shop manual. ..Willy.
wrcsixeight
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Look on E bay motors for factory service manual<br><br><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?_nkw=1992+ford+f250+service+manual&_rdc=2" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?_nkw=1992+ford+f250+service+manual&_rdc=2<br><br>I</a> got one for my Dodge van. Miles ahead of the Haynes I have, but the Haynes does Occassionally have some insight or techniques not listed in the FSM. I usually check both.
Ziggy Moon
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I agree, Willy - Haynes Blows!!
<img rel="lightbox" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fixvBiAAhqM/UQKrBZvyx0I/AAAAAAAADL4/63NsM6hT5wI/s640/family-guy.gif" class="bbc_img">
Well, the engine is out and on the stand, with the parts truck towed away. Decided to pull the tranny and put it on Craigslit... who knows, it might sell. Tires are posted to. The guy who picked up the truck was unsurprised that I wanted to keep the rubber; said the tires alone were worth more than the truck. Now, when it gets a bit cooler out, I'm gonna pull the oil pan and check 'er out. ..Willy.<br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1611822" class="decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1611822"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1611823" class="decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1611823"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1611824" class="decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1611824"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1611825" class="decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1611825">
Back again! Pulled the oil pan and checked out a couple of the main bearings.. worn to the copper, with some light scoring. The crank journals are 'acceptable', but I figure that I might as well throw in some new bearings; crank, rod, and maybe cam. At least the compression is good, so the rings can stay. I'll get some pics happening in a bit. ..Willy.
offroad
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such an experiment. glad you know what to look for. my 4x4 wrenching buddies would have respect for all the work you are doing. <br><br>but the normal mom and pop cheaprvliving folks are looking at this all and thanking the gods and goddesses every day that there van-truck-rv is still running.
I hear ya there but, even if things are presently running fine, that can change right quickly. It's the old "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" thing. Besides, the engine is out anyway, so another day or 2 shouldn't hurt things, and I sure as hell DON'T wanna pull the lousy thing out again! ..Willy.
wagoneer
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Second that on the stepvan the whole front swung up and i was able to reach any part in no bloody knuckle time. I tell ye this next time it will be a 4tb cummins in a step van , s576t live and learn.
Bearings.. not toast, but pretty worn:<br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614327" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614327"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614326" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614326"><br> The oil pan, on the other hand, is a total write-off. Started peeling off the rust, and then wire brushed it with the grinder and.. <strong>holes</strong> and the deep dark <strong>rust pits of doom</strong>! Now, I could fool around with JB Weld, RTV, fibreglass and whatnot, but the engine is <em>out,</em> and now would be the time to replace it. Bummer.<br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614328" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614328"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614329" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614329"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614330" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614330"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1614331" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1614331"><br> I found out, cruising the internet, that Ford trucks are rather notorious for rusted out oil pans. Live 'n learn, I suppose.<br> One thing I found out, and wish I'd known earlier, is that Ford parts, aftermarket or otherwise, are EXPENSIVE; 2-3 times more than the comparable Chev part. So there ya go folks.. let my current pain help guide your future decisions. ..Willy.<br><br><br>
Ballenxj
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Hi Willy, I hope you pulled the flex plate off the old engine before you let it go. You will need it if you're going to use your old automatic trans. <br>That aside, it looks like you are doing a GREAT job. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce
Yup, I made sure I pulled it. Screwed up though and forgot to pop out the pilot bearing. Spent basically a whole day trying to get stuff aligned and the tranny/engine mated up.. and had to pull the engine out today and remove that #@$%&*!! bearing. Just got it in and mated up about an hour ago. Must be quite a sight cuz I'm all drugged up, stumbling around like a drunk and swearing a blue streak.<br> Got chased in by the rain juuuust as I finished; still have to bolt it up properly and hook up the rest of the crap that goes on this POS. Actually had to tear off my exhaust in order to get in a couple of bolts. That leaves me with a couple (or more) days of increasing frustration before the works is all together. I don't think I'll ever willingly buy a newer vehicle again, and would advise others to stay away from them too if you're on a budget and aren't extremely creative when it comes to swingin' a wrench. ..Willy.
Well, it's in. Still have a few things to do, like rerouting the pollution control and fully hooking up the exhaust, but it's raining right now and I'm feelin' lazy. ..Willy. <br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1619568" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1619568"><br><img rel="lightbox" src="/file?id=1619570" class="shrinkToFit decoded bbc_img" alt="https://vanlivingforum.com/file?id=1619570">
Everything is back together & ready to roll! Actually, it was together a coupla days ago, but I was too lazy to post about it... so there! Tore out my fridge from the camper, and stuck my WAECO cooler in the cab of the truck instead. Ran a line from my battery isolator (which charges the 'fridge' battery in the camper) to the cooler. <br> I figure, with the cooler in the cab, I'm getting an overabundance of solar when it's sunny 'n hot (and I leave the windows open anyway) and I need less power to cool my stuff in the winter. I'll get some more fabulous pics happening in a bit. ..Willy. PS.. forgot to mention.. sold them tires for $380 the other day, and they went RIGHT quick!
