Vannautical engineer
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I was recently camping in some fairly hot weather, and I left my fantastic fan running on low almost all the time to keep the inside of the van at least at the ambient outside temp. Unfortunately even at the lowest of the three speeds, the fan draws around 1 or 1.5 amps, which equates (conservatively) to 24ah if you have it on for an entire day and night. That's about a quarter of my whole 100ah battery every day just to keep the fan going!
I converted the fan over to a PWM (pulse width modulated) speed controller. The factory speed controller on the fantastic fan is pretty much 1950s technology. It just runs the power through some coiled up resistive wires to lower the speed of the fan. The two big drawbacks of this are that these resistive wires use power all on their own, and they actually get hot, like uncomfortably hot to the touch. So as you are trying to cool your van, these little wires are wasting your battery and pumping out heat. Not ideal!
There are a few tutorials on this on youtube, but I like this one the best for one specific reason.
While this is not a roof vent fan, it appears to be a very similar stand alone fan made by Dometic. The reason I like this video is that he specifically calls out one important thing. Ideally you want to use a PWM motor controller with a frequency higher than 20khz. The reason for this is that any frequency lower than this is within the range of human hearing, meaning that your fan may emit a high pitched whine when using it. It will not harm the fan, but it could definitely be annoying. Here is a good PWM controller for only about $10 that runs at 25khz. It is rated to way, way more current than the fan runs at, but none of the smaller ones seem to run at over 20khz. Plus the higher rated controller will run much cooler when running at such a low load, probably making almost no heat at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Assembly-Adjustable-Electronic-Regulation/dp/B08HDC9XB9
After installing this controller, I can confirm that the fan seems to use somewhere around half the power that it did from the factory when I set it to a speed that's about equivalent to low speed on the factory fan.
Oh and that's the other big benefit, the speed is completely variable all the way from a crawl up to full speed. I can also confirm that this speed controller will fit inside the fan in the same spot where the factory speed control knob was. It's a tight fit, but it works. I still also have the power to the ran motor running through the thermostat, the switch that automatically shuts off the fan when the vent is closed, and the speed reversing switch, so it maintains all of the other factory functions.
One thing to note is that since you will probably be completely replacing the factory speed control knob, once you install this, power is effectively always going to this speed controller even if you have the speed set to the minimum, which is no fan rotation at all. Per my measurements, the speed controller and the rest of the fan's electronics uses about 0.05a of current when it is just sitting there not spinning the fan. (about 1.2ah per day.) So if you are a real stickler for parasitic drains on your battery, you may want to wire up an external on off switch that switches power to the fan so you can cut out that small drain when you are not using the fan.
I converted the fan over to a PWM (pulse width modulated) speed controller. The factory speed controller on the fantastic fan is pretty much 1950s technology. It just runs the power through some coiled up resistive wires to lower the speed of the fan. The two big drawbacks of this are that these resistive wires use power all on their own, and they actually get hot, like uncomfortably hot to the touch. So as you are trying to cool your van, these little wires are wasting your battery and pumping out heat. Not ideal!
There are a few tutorials on this on youtube, but I like this one the best for one specific reason.
While this is not a roof vent fan, it appears to be a very similar stand alone fan made by Dometic. The reason I like this video is that he specifically calls out one important thing. Ideally you want to use a PWM motor controller with a frequency higher than 20khz. The reason for this is that any frequency lower than this is within the range of human hearing, meaning that your fan may emit a high pitched whine when using it. It will not harm the fan, but it could definitely be annoying. Here is a good PWM controller for only about $10 that runs at 25khz. It is rated to way, way more current than the fan runs at, but none of the smaller ones seem to run at over 20khz. Plus the higher rated controller will run much cooler when running at such a low load, probably making almost no heat at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Assembly-Adjustable-Electronic-Regulation/dp/B08HDC9XB9
After installing this controller, I can confirm that the fan seems to use somewhere around half the power that it did from the factory when I set it to a speed that's about equivalent to low speed on the factory fan.
Oh and that's the other big benefit, the speed is completely variable all the way from a crawl up to full speed. I can also confirm that this speed controller will fit inside the fan in the same spot where the factory speed control knob was. It's a tight fit, but it works. I still also have the power to the ran motor running through the thermostat, the switch that automatically shuts off the fan when the vent is closed, and the speed reversing switch, so it maintains all of the other factory functions.
One thing to note is that since you will probably be completely replacing the factory speed control knob, once you install this, power is effectively always going to this speed controller even if you have the speed set to the minimum, which is no fan rotation at all. Per my measurements, the speed controller and the rest of the fan's electronics uses about 0.05a of current when it is just sitting there not spinning the fan. (about 1.2ah per day.) So if you are a real stickler for parasitic drains on your battery, you may want to wire up an external on off switch that switches power to the fan so you can cut out that small drain when you are not using the fan.