Conduit and Rope Bed

[myway_1]

This is the bed I recently made. The idea came from a forum member. Thanks Off Grid 24/7.

It is twin-size (39" x 75") and the legs are 19" so I can store tall things under it. It is very light. I am not strong and I can easily carry it over one shoulder. I would estimate that it weighs less than 35 pounds. The legs come right off making it even easier to move.

It is made using:

1" EMT electrical conduit. My cost from Home Depot was $6.50 for a 10 foot piece x 3.
1" canopy fittings. My cost from tarps.com was $5.50 for flat roof corner x 4 (be sure to get flat NOT pitched) and $4.50 for tee x 2
1/4" manila rope. My cost from Home Depot was $6.50 for 50' x 2.

Total cost about $65.00. You could save money by using 1" PVC fittings. I didn't go that way because the conduit doesn't fit snugly in them. The canopy fittings have eye screws to tighten against the conduit. You could save money by buying 3/16" plastic rope.

Wrapping the rope was tricky. I had several false starts. Some suggestions: place the loops closest to the corners very close to the corners; try to find a 100' coil of rope so you don't have a knot and try to figure out a good knot to tie the ends to the frame so that you can pull them good and taut and that won't slip. I'm not good at knots so if anyone has a suggestion I'd appreciate it.

I have a separate post inquiring what to use as a mattress.

 

[highdesertranger]

that's cool. we are going to need a follow up report, after you have used it. highdesertranger

 

[myway_1]

that's cool.  we are going to need a follow up report,  after you have used it.  highdesertranger

I have slept in it for two nights.

The rope has stretched and needs to be tightened. One way to deal with that is to put an adjustment bar toward the end. Here is a pic of that

http://noxlady.blogspot.com/2010/03/rope-beds-take-2.html

I didn't do that because I didn't have anything to use, but I may add it if the rope continues to stretch. But it will always sag a bit.

I was concerned that the conduit rails would get pulled together and bent. I just measured and they haven't but they might for a heavy person. They may flex while you're on the bed which would contribute to the sag.

 

[acfdexpo]

Nice!  Depending on what type/construction of rope used stretching will be different.  Also, webbing would be a good choice.  I really like it.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

A couple of comments:

There was a time when ALL beds used ropes to support the mattress.  That's where the phrase "sleep tight" comes from.

I would have used parachute cord - breaking strength 550 lbs and it comes in 100 foot lengths.  I would have gotten two, and run one across the bed and the other lengthwise, interweaving the lengthwise one over and under each alternate crosswise rope.

Finally to keep it tight, I would have gotten four turnbuckles, like these:

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Gu...TF8&qid=1457805772&sr=8-8&keywords=turnbuckle

One on each end of each rope.

Regards
John

 

[myway_1]

A couple of comments:

There was a time when ALL beds used ropes to support the mattress.  That's where the phrase "sleep tight" comes from.

I would have used parachute cord - breaking strength 550 lbs and it comes in 100 foot lengths.  I would have gotten two, and run one across the bed and the other lengthwise, interweaving the lengthwise one over and under each alternate crosswise rope.

Finally to keep it tight, I would have gotten four turnbuckles, like these:

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Gu...TF8&qid=1457805772&sr=8-8&keywords=turnbuckle

One on each end of each rope.

Regards
John

Good suggestions. The way I roped it is not conducive to tightening the rope since I don't have the adjustment bar.

The way you suggest roping it is the same as Off Grid 24/7. That way may be better especially without the adjustment bar.

I wonder if the turnbuckles will tighten the rope throughout. It might need to be a type of rope with minimal friction.

 

[SoulRaven]

If you use poly rope, think boat rope, it usually doesn't stretch as much...

I have found that horizontal runs vs. diagonal runs don't sag as much.

I use a clove hitch on the rope ends, then add a knot to the loose end to totally prevent it from pulling through.

While the connectors from tarps.com are definitely sturdy, they also prevent the legs from folding, which can have pluses or minuses depending on your setup.  In my design I used strictly Home Depot parts to facilitate one stop shopping without the need of mail order...

Looks like you're on your way to a good sturdy, yet lightweight and breathable bed though, GOOD WORK!

Here's a picture of a clove hitch I found...

 

[nobodyG17]

Run a few cross members.  At least one or two and then put the rope in the same pattern in each section.

 

[Gigi]

This is really awesome!

Gigi

 

[myway_1]

If you use poly rope, think boat rope, it usually doesn't stretch as much...

I have found that horizontal runs vs. diagonal runs don't sag as much.

I use a clove hitch on the rope ends, then add a knot to the loose end to totally prevent it from pulling through.

While the connectors from tarps.com are definitely sturdy, they also prevent the legs from folding, which can have pluses or minuses depending on your setup.  In my design I used strictly Home Depot parts to facilitate one stop shopping without the need of mail order...

Looks like you're on your way to a good sturdy, yet lightweight and breathable bed though, GOOD WORK!

Here's a picture of a clove hitch I found...

I started roping with horizontal runs but ran out of rope. It would take well over 100' for a twin bed and I couldn't conveniently get back to Home Depot. I went to the dollar store and bought poly rope but then I decided that mismatched rope wouldn't be a good idea. I may go back to Home Depot for more manila rope and redo the roping. I am anti-plastic and like to use natural whenever possible.

I was going to use six tees to connect the legs to the frame but I couldn't visualize how the crisscross roping of the legs would keep the bed from falling over. I can see how it would keep the legs from splaying out but not how it would keep the frame from falling to the right or to the left. Of course one side of the frame would be against the vehicle and if you angle the legs slightly that would pin it but I have the bed in the middle of my bedroom floor for now.

 

[eDJ_]

Just a thought I'll offer here.

Notice the adjusting bar incorporated in this bed.   The actual net bed is tied
to a shorter length at the adjusting bar.  Then the adjusting lashing, which can
from time to time be adjusted to take up the slack, and be attended to from
time to time. 

There are different types of rope and plastic cord that can be used for this.
Polyester is strong as steel but doesn't play well in direct sun light. 

The connection on the side frames can be pulled toward the adjustment bar
when  taking up the slack to get a taught mattress platform.  The adjusting
bar would probably go to the foot of the bed.

This could be a solution for you.

 

[SoulRaven]

If you keep both sides from going outwards, then one edge needs to be raised to fold the legs under.  Otherwise any weight on the bed will prevent the legs from being folded inwards.

It is possible for one side of the legs to fold under if the bed is pushed sideways across the floor with little or no weight on it, but once the bed is in place with someone on it, it is even stable enough to support extracurricular activities...  

 

[highdesertranger]

boy, you are anti plastic. you must drive a car from the 50's, wear clothes made of leather, cotton, wool or hemp. don't get me wrong for the most part I don't like plastic either. mainly because it's throw away stuff. but it's very hard nowadays to not use the stuff. highdesertranger

 

[Gypsy Jane]

I originally made my PVC bed frame in that configuration, with a cot canvas instead of rope. The sides did pull in, so I added another layer 4" down with a crossbar.

 

[waldenbound]

I was going to build a rope bed, I got my hands on some California redwood. I didn't have the tools or know how to drill 5/8" holes in a 2x4.
Oh well, I like my colorful bed made of plain cedar. Makes for good storage too.

 

[myway_1]

I redid the roping in a perpendicular pattern and went with 3/16" polyester rope. I've been sleeping on it for over a month and it has held up fine: plumb, square, no bowing.

 

[MtDave]

I think the problem of the sides bowing in could be dealt with by adding "Ts" right below the the current mid length Ts and adding a cross piece right in the middle to go between the long sides. No storage space would be lost because anything coming or going from under the bed has to pass by the vertical legs that are already in the middle of the bed. The extra T in the middle and below the level of the top rectangle would be below the rope so would not pose any problem with your butt or hip dipping low enough to hit that cross bar. Just a thought. We have had a pair of these cots https://www.rei.com/product/883148/camp-time-deluxe-roll-a-cot for almost ten years and they are great. Only weigh around 10 pounds and no bars at the head or foot that are uncomfortable with most cots. We have used them in combination with Thermarest pads and been quite comfortable. David

 

[myway_1]

I think the problem of the sides bowing in could be dealt with by adding "Ts" right below the the current mid length Ts and adding a cross piece right in the middle to go between the long sides. No storage space would be lost because anything coming or going from under the bed has to pass by the vertical legs that are already in the middle of the bed. The extra T in the middle and below the level of the top rectangle would be below the rope so would not pose any problem with your butt or hip dipping low enough to hit that cross bar. Just a thought. We have had a pair of these cots https://www.rei.com/product/883148/camp-time-deluxe-roll-a-cot for almost ten years and they are great. Only weigh around 10 pounds and no bars at the head or foot that are uncomfortable with most cots. We have used them in combination with Thermarest pads and been quite comfortable. David

I'm not having a problem with the sides bowing in. A heavy person might and your suggestion would be a good one in that case. I considered a canvas cot but decided against it because I wanted 20" of storage height underneath and I wanted a wider bed. Mine is twin-sized 39". But the cots you use do look like good ones.

 

[myway_1]

Follow-up.

I have slept on this bed every night for the past year. I had to tighten the ropes a few times early on. There is no way to keep them tight enough so that the bed stays flat. It sags a bit but it doesn't bother me. I would recommend this bed.

 

[deadwood]

Looks like a cool easy to do project. I love trying out new projects on the van just to see how they will work. Sometimes they do and sometimes it leads to other things. The rope bed looks like it came out great.