Chirping/Squeaking over 20mph?

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Gary68 said:
just watched your vid

and it sounds like a belt or speedo cable to me

the belt noise would be in the front of the engine

the speedo would be in dash and/or to the right of you


Could the speedo noise also come from where it goes into the transmission? The noise seems to be coming from that area. Basically yes, it seems to be coming from the transmission area. :/
 
bullfrog said:
Definitely changes with the speed of the vehicle, but doesn't a bad speedo cable usually cause the needle to jump or vibrate?  Does GM still use the split cable for cruse control?  U-joints usually have rusty red bearing dust appear around the caps before getting loose.

I'm going to have a friend show me where those are, and also help me check the steering box while she's hoisted up (that's been on my list for a while now). The shitty mechanic I just got back from said the u-joints were fine, but I have no faith in them now. 

As far as the jumping, the needle did vibrate a little, but only at the lowest speeds before the noise kicks in.
 
Speedo cable noise would come from wherever the cable is bad.
 
rvpopeye said:
Speedo cable noise would come from wherever the cable is bad.

Pretty much. I suppose it might be helpful if we described what the speedometer cable looks like. Pam(?) it looks kind of like the cables you might see on a bicycle, but a lot thicker. About 3/8 inch thick? If you have cruise control it will run from the drivers side of the transmission, up to the top of the engine where it will join a junction (some are referring to this as the Tee) where it controls your speed as it is linked to the throttle body (carb). I think your year will be throttle body injection that looks like a carburetor. From that tee, another shorter piece of cable runs up to, and through the firewall were it connects to the back of your speedometer. I hope this helps you locate it.
 
I watched the video and frankly had a hard time hearing the noise. highdesertranger
 
The sound quality makes it difficult generally U-Joint is a little higher in pitch than a speedo cable that has a few strands broken and rubbing the cable housing. U-Join bearing noises come from the middle or rear of the van, speedo noises come from the middle or front of the van. When a U-Joint gets really bad you will have a loud clunk when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse.
 
highdesertranger said:
I watched the video and frankly had a hard time hearing the noise.  highdesertranger

I just put a set of headphones on to try and hear it. Frankly, it sounds like a belt slipping. I could be wrong though.
 
I wasn't able to hear it at all
I doubt this van has a center carrier bearing, unless it's extended, I crawled under my 88 G2500 and it has a beefy 1 piece driveshaft
 
yep that worked. here's a tip disconnect the speedo cable at the transmission, see if the noise goes away. highdesertranger
 
Drumroll please.... we figured out the issue. It was the speedo cable!! Attached in the battiest way, took a long time to remove it, but cruising along the main road at zero miles per hour gave zero squeaks. A big thank you to everyone for helping me figure it out, and a big FUUUUUUUUHHHK YOOOOO to the mechanics who didn't bother to check it, even after being told that this might be it.


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Gary68 said:
cookies for everyone

shadetree hack tip-on the trans side,when you pull out the metal thing there is an rubber o ring on the outside of it,replace it,they love to leak

https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/Nj...um-Powerglide-Speedometer-Gear-Housing-_1.jpg


http://s3.amazonaws.com/thmb.inkfro...dometer_Housing_w__39_Tooth_gear-16.jpg/500/0


I may be speaking out of turn when I say I love you and you are my hero. I already have tinnitus, so that squeak could well have driven me over the edge

I shall replace that o ring stat!


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thehellend said:
Thanks guys. I am going to take a couple more readings myself and perhaps explore my options from there.

The more I think about this mechanic the more I'm not happy. There's a pretty audible noise coming from somewhere, and they suggested I "drive it more so the noise becomes louder" so they can hear where it's coming from better. There's a leak coming from the transmission pan, and no one has mentioned it to me in two separate diagnostic visits (unless it wasn't there then, in which case they caused it, as it's not driven anywhere since then other than the drive around the block to warm up the fluids), and the last time I was on the phone with them to ask if they checked various things (and I did it in an innocent, not questioning their expertise kinda way) they got defensive about everything I said, saying things like "our mechanics have 20 years in the field" etc etc.

I'm definitely over sensitive, but I also explained to the mechanic that my number one priority, over cost, was safety. So I'm super irked that I have been handed back a van that's squealing, and told "drive it more to make it easier for us".

I just found this thread,  :mad:  Those parts changers (I refuse to use the "M" word) are worthless.  20 years out standing in the cow pasture only makes you an expert in "B S"  

I have NEVER heard of a real mechanic refusing to take a 5 minute spin to diagnose a noise.  If it was me, I would put on my Sicilian, and politely ask for a refund.   :cool:

 
GotSmart said:
I just found this thread,  :mad:  Those parts changers (I refuse to use the "M" word) are worthless.  20 years out standing in the cow pasture only makes you an expert in "B S"  

I have NEVER heard of a real mechanic refusing to take a 5 minute spin to diagnose a noise.  If it was me, I would put on my Sicilian, and politely ask for a refund.   :cool:




I've been contemplating my next move with them, and I think a nice set of honest reviews, including detailing how aggressively they mine for positive feedback, is in order. Maybe they're better when you have a newer car, but all they had to do was say no rather than take my money for nothing.


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