Charger and Battery Monitor advice needed

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When you can plug in to recharge, are you limited on how long you have to recharge?

Trojan recommends 10 to 13% charge rate,

So for 4 T-105s, you want a 60 amp charger minimum.

Trojan also recommends a 14.8v absorption voltage.

Many rv converters do not allow this high a voltage. 14.4v if left on long enough will eventually fully charge the battery, but if the batteries are abused 14.4v might not ever max out the Specific gravity.

One converter that is NOT automatic will allow one to choose any absorption voltage, but one has to be there and either lower the voltage to 13.2 to 13.6, or unplug the converter once the battery bank is fully charged.

Here is a link to a 60 amp adjustable voltage Powermax charger. Set it to 14.8v and let it go until amps taper to 2 to 3% of total battery capacity, or when specific gravity maxes out at 1.275. It will put out its maximum rating until voltage hits 14.8v, and then it will hold 14.8v while amps taper.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondo...ower-ConverterCharger_p_585.html#.Vp2qCZorLUI

One could put this manual charger on a spring wound timer and let it rip for say 5 or 6 hours and have little risk of overcharging.

The regular converters from powermax, Iota, and progressive dynamics all do weird things once they get the battery up near absorption voltage which greatly extend recharging times. Not a big factor if one has all the time they need to fully recharge, but if one is limited as to recharge times, or is running a generator only to recharge, then one wants to hold the proper absorption voltage for that entire duration available, upto 100% charged at least.

The battery monitor which counts AH into and out of a battery bank is a wonderful tool, but it is hardly a necessity.

If you are OK with the Manual adjustable voltage Powermax, I recommend not buying from the link provided, but call up errin at powermax and order directly from him stressing you want the adjustable voltage model.

Errin Tribble
Phone: 574-349-0078
Email: [email protected]

YOu can also recharge at a higher rate than 10 to 13%. The powermax converters are powerfactor corrected at 60 amps or higher. They can be powered from a 15 amp household outlet, whereas the Iota and Progressive dynamics converters need a 20 amp receptacle at 70+ amps DC output.

With Converters one needs to provide their own DC cables to the batteries. Go for thick cables as short as possible for best performance.

One can also put an Ammeter on the (-) cable from converter to battery. If there is no loads on the battery when charging, when amperage tapers to 2 to 3% of battery capacity, one can consider them fully charged, or very nearly so.

Confirm with a hydrometer.
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Professional-Battery-Hydrometer/dp/B0050SFVHO

The Adjustable voltage Powermax will also allow one to perform an Authentic Equalization charge at 15.5 volts, which can greatly extend the cycle life of flooded lead acid batteries when performed when needed. The other converters might throw out the term 'equalization' but this is marketing mumbojumbo and false. Destratifying the electrolyte via applying absorption voltage every 18 hours is NOT an Equalization charge.
 
Here is a digital 100 amp Ammeter. Note it only show current flowing in one direction, but when wired to show charging amps one can easily infer state of charge of the battery bank:

http://www.amazon.com/DROK-4-5-30V-...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1PAVVGA9NT43X107TV5S

Real AH counting battery monitors are a bit more complicated, especially when the alternator is contributing to the house batteries, the trimetric and victron battery monitors are the standard.

Please note that battery monitors need to be correctly wired and programmed and occasionally verified and rezeroed.

more reading on this:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_monitor

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/programming_a_battery_monitor

A person who keeps a close Eye on a voltmeter during many discharge cycles, can easily get away without a battery monitor.

12.2 volts under light loads indicate the battery bank is in the 50% region. But huge loads like a microwave might have a 75% battery bank reading 11.5 volts, so the size of the load is important when estimating state of charge via voltage.

Determining the size of the load requires an Ammeter, like the one linked to above, but a simpler solution is the clamp on DC Ammeter. Clamp this meter over one single wire in a circuit and one can accurately see the Amperage flowing through it.

Here is an Example off an AC/DC clamp on Ammeter, which is also a full function digital multimeter which every RV should have anyway.

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-MA120-...453175071&sr=8-1&keywords=clamp+on+DC+ammeter

Note that if shopping for these, that the AC only models are much cheaper, but useless for measuring current in a DC system. If it is less than ~32$ it is likely AC only not AC and DC.
 
Look into a marine type charger. Such as ProNautic by Pro-Mariner, or ProCharge by Sterling Power. Read up on charging lead acid batteries here; http://www.marinehowto.com/. Select the how to articles, and scroll down to many fine articles about charging and monitoring batteries.
 
Being new to solar living, I took HandyBob's advice and added a Trimetric 2030 to my system.  It has taught me a lot about my usage; BUT you have to use it!  I'm a retired Mechanical Engineer so measuring things and working with numbers is natural to me.  It has been a confidence builder, knowing what it takes to have full batteries when the sun goes down at night or at what point do I need to start thinking about conservation/external charging.

I will yield to Sternwake on charging as I use an old (1960's) Monkee Wards 20 amp charger.  Just a single stage charge, but it gets the SG to the right place eventually.

-- Spiff
 
SternWake said:
When you can plug in to recharge, are you limited on how long you have to recharge?

For approximately 6 months of the year I will be plugged in to shore power except when I take the van out for a drive.

The rest of the year I can run the Honda 1000 as much as is necessary to charge the batteries. If it takes 6 hours, then that's what it takes...it's so easy on gas I don't worry about it. Well, except for the days when I'm driving for much of the day but then the batteries will be charging from the alternator.

Will the 60 amp battery charger do okay when run on the Honda 1000?

Absolutely no plans to run anything on/off of a RV power center/converter btw.

Trojan shows the following;

"Charger Voltage Settings" at 77F

Absorption Charge - 2.35 to 2.45 per cell
Float Charge - 2.20 per cell
Equalization Charge - 2.58 per cell.

http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/T105RE_TrojanRE_Data_Sheets.pdf

It's late and I'm tired from 2 weeks at the RTR - how does the above translate to equal a 60 amp charger?

I'll try to understand the parts about battery monitoring tomorrow!!

Should have only asked one question at a time!
 
The Honda 1000 is a limiting factor.  I do not believe it would be able to power the 60 amp converter when the batteries are depleted and able to easily accept the 60 amps.


I think the honda 1000 generator is limited to a ~45 amp charging source.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondo...ower-ConverterCharger_p_586.html#.Vp8mX5orLUI

Meeting trojans 14.8v spec is important and the above product will achieve it.

It is a little under trojan's 10 to 13% recommended rate for 4 t-105's,  so it will  take a little longer when the batteries are depleted below 80% charged.
It will hold 14.8v for as long as you run the generator, where as other automatic 3 or 4 stage chargers will drop voltage prematurely and greatly extend generator run time needed to attain a true 100%

When the Van is parked and plugged in, you can set the voltage to 13.2v and it will provide only enough amperage to maintain the batteries at 13.2v.

If where you park the van for those 6 months, gets much hotter than 77f, then 13.2v is too high and water usage will increase.

If you cannot be bothered to turn a Knob to adjust voltages and need something automatic, then get the Iota DLS-45 as at least it will goto 14.8v and hold it for a little while before dropping voltage and thus slowing the charge rate.

Everything is a compromise, there is no perfect battery charger for every situation.  These adjustable voltage units allow an informed human to come closest to ideal in most any situation, but they are not idiot proof, nor automatic.

The 15.5v capability  of these powermax adjustable units allow one to equalize a battery bank  every so many cycles which will greatly extend the lifespan of a heavily cycled  flooded battery bank.

I think your existing Noco charger might be better for those 6 month resting periods as it might compensate for ambient temperatures and raise or lower float voltage accordingly.
 
Almost There said:
Trojan shows the following;

"Charger Voltage Settings" at 77F

Absorption Charge - 2.35 to 2.45 per cell
Float Charge - 2.20 per cell
Equalization Charge - 2.58 per cell.

Well, there are 6 cells in a twelve volt battery.

2.35 X 6 = 14.1 volts
2.45 X 6 = 14.7 volts
2.20 X 6 = 13.2 volts
2.58 X 6 = 15.48 volts

So, Absorption charge setting between 14.1 and 14.7 volts, Float voltage setting at 13.2 volts, and Equalization volt setting at15.5 volts.

I think the reason they specify by cell is because their units tend to get used a lot in banks of 24 volts, 36 volts, even 48 volts.  On a 24 volt system, Absorption would be 28.2 volts to 29.4 volts, etc.

None of those figures have anything to do with how many amps the battery charger should be.

Regards
John
 
Can you post a picture of your battery set up? 

Also, how do you have them set up to charge off of the alternator?  Do you use a solenoid in the charging line?
 
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