KingArthur
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Came up with a list of things I'm looking for at the junkyard when I got to check out the axles...
Changing diff gears...
- Thread starter KingArthur
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Help Support Van Living Forum:
You'll add 20% in speed so now howling at 50 you can howl at 60 mph. I wish the had the cheaper over/under drive that went in front of the rear end that new used to be under $1000 plus the cost of cutting the driveshaft. Now they're 4x that.
JD GUMBEE
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Bro...just L-80 swap the thing and be done.
You can swap that trans a LOT easier than screwing with those spring hangars, brakes...
Add everything up and you will see swapping the trans to gain OD will do EXACTLY what you want for less, without affecting the power on the hills. They are SUPREMELY reliable and cheap as dirt, since they rarely go sour.
Also...it does NOT hurt that engine to rev a bit.
It has a wide band and you may not get as much MPG benefit as you think after all the work is done.
My Class A runs a 4:56 and SCREAMS on the highway...but to rip out a 11,000 mile T400 just was not worth the $$$.
If it had 100K on it, my decision may have been different...but T-400's are pretty tough too.
I may have gained a mile per gallon if lucky. That would have been a little more than a grand so far in fuel.
Worth yanking a factory 1985 built perfect/no-leak T400?? Umm, nope.
We run 60 or under and relax. Turning up the stereo and blocking the tach makes me feel better.
(Waaaaaaaaaaaa! Fat Block-awaaaaaay!)
If you could find a rear pumpkin mounted OD box or Gear Vendors unit...that would be more applicable if cheap enough.
I could not find one, even after putting out an APB with every hot rodder and truck wrench contact, for that kind of money.
You can swap that trans a LOT easier than screwing with those spring hangars, brakes...
Add everything up and you will see swapping the trans to gain OD will do EXACTLY what you want for less, without affecting the power on the hills. They are SUPREMELY reliable and cheap as dirt, since they rarely go sour.
Also...it does NOT hurt that engine to rev a bit.
It has a wide band and you may not get as much MPG benefit as you think after all the work is done.
My Class A runs a 4:56 and SCREAMS on the highway...but to rip out a 11,000 mile T400 just was not worth the $$$.
If it had 100K on it, my decision may have been different...but T-400's are pretty tough too.
I may have gained a mile per gallon if lucky. That would have been a little more than a grand so far in fuel.
Worth yanking a factory 1985 built perfect/no-leak T400?? Umm, nope.
We run 60 or under and relax. Turning up the stereo and blocking the tach makes me feel better.
(Waaaaaaaaaaaa! Fat Block-awaaaaaay!)
If you could find a rear pumpkin mounted OD box or Gear Vendors unit...that would be more applicable if cheap enough.
I could not find one, even after putting out an APB with every hot rodder and truck wrench contact, for that kind of money.
KingArthur
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Not sure if I think dropping 600 bucks for a tamagachi that makes the 4l80e work on my truck is something I can live with.
JD GUMBEE
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It's all in knowing where to find the greasy geek with the know-how.
This is a link to a Sloppy Mechanics page.
(The ones with the turbocharged LS powered Winnebago.)
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/everything-ls/cheap-stand-alone-trans-controller
^^^It explains how to do it cheap and very well.
Even if you needed to add a TPS, it still would be a lot easier/cheaper than giving up tug power and screwing with that rear end.
Diesel ECM's are nearly worthless, too. Cheap cheap.
This is a link to a Sloppy Mechanics page.
(The ones with the turbocharged LS powered Winnebago.)
https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/everything-ls/cheap-stand-alone-trans-controller
^^^It explains how to do it cheap and very well.
Even if you needed to add a TPS, it still would be a lot easier/cheaper than giving up tug power and screwing with that rear end.
Diesel ECM's are nearly worthless, too. Cheap cheap.
highdesertranger
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as far as the 4l80 just go with a manual valve body. simple, cheap, and easy. highdesertranger
JD GUMBEE
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That too.
You can even use the stock column shifter.
Add a switch for the lockup and you'd be golden.
You can even use the stock column shifter.
Add a switch for the lockup and you'd be golden.
KingArthur
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I definitely agree with the greasy geek sentiment. In the age of the internet, really it's not about what you know, it's if you can find what you don't know.
That turbo Winnie is fantastic. I think my favorite part was when they decided to just keep adding fuel filters rather than clean the tank. Lol.
I'll give that a read later. As far as I know the hurdle would be adding a TPS to the 6.2. I guess if I can bypass all the other garbage that a computer would want and the module JUST wants the TPS signal it won't be so bad. The manual shift plate is another attractive option, but my preference would be for it to remain automatic just in case I go to sell it I won't have to explain to some manbunned millennial why no shift by self
So adding an ECM to the 6.2 sounds cheap but pretty shitty to me. Would you agree?
That turbo Winnie is fantastic. I think my favorite part was when they decided to just keep adding fuel filters rather than clean the tank. Lol.
I'll give that a read later. As far as I know the hurdle would be adding a TPS to the 6.2. I guess if I can bypass all the other garbage that a computer would want and the module JUST wants the TPS signal it won't be so bad. The manual shift plate is another attractive option, but my preference would be for it to remain automatic just in case I go to sell it I won't have to explain to some manbunned millennial why no shift by self
So adding an ECM to the 6.2 sounds cheap but pretty shitty to me. Would you agree?
i have 400cid/350 turbo/4:10
i went with a taller tire(85) and it helped a little,when the time comes going to convert to 700r/4l60 (same thing) o/d in my opinion is much more effective than changing the diff,you get to keep/improve the low end grunt and have o/d,get the lock up torque converter for added bonus mpg
i went with a taller tire(85) and it helped a little,when the time comes going to convert to 700r/4l60 (same thing) o/d in my opinion is much more effective than changing the diff,you get to keep/improve the low end grunt and have o/d,get the lock up torque converter for added bonus mpg
JD GUMBEE
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I think compared to screwing with the rear end?
With what you would have at the end?
Yes. It would be more worth it than the rear.
The 4 speed with the lockup OD would provide a better, more user worthy solution.
Worth it over all?
If the trans and rear are working now...turn the radio up and let it sing.
It would be a very long time to pay back the $$$ any of those mods would cost.
PS...you would want the L80 trans in that.
Not the 60.
With what you would have at the end?
Yes. It would be more worth it than the rear.
The 4 speed with the lockup OD would provide a better, more user worthy solution.
Worth it over all?
If the trans and rear are working now...turn the radio up and let it sing.
It would be a very long time to pay back the $$$ any of those mods would cost.
PS...you would want the L80 trans in that.
Not the 60.
OkieDreamer
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JD GUMBEE said:
Wisdom. I had a front 4:10 diff explode and I had to replace everything, and the trans went and it was hooked to the transfer case. If it is running, a bit more for fuel is the way to go. Neither job (I was much younger) was easy and neither of these options are either. Run it, save your money for a more fuel efficient rig if that is what floats your boat. I bet you could load it to the gills and still get the same MPG. Didn't make any difference with mine anyway weather it had the overhead camper on or it was empty.
