highdesertranger
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great post sternwake. I am no fan of the diode isolators and was trying to figure out how to reply but you pretty much covered it. highdesertranger
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Lucky mike
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I appreciate it too......but it seems funny that this isolator circuit has been in use in ambulances ....fire apparatus....armored cars....RV's for many years without problems......I gave the gentleman solid advice and Referred him to the info he needed where he could find it.....
you on the other hand stepped up to clear dirty laundry where you could find it.....at no point did I insert my opinion just the proven short version of info and directions on how to get there........something you forgot to do !!!
you on the other hand stepped up to clear dirty laundry where you could find it.....at no point did I insert my opinion just the proven short version of info and directions on how to get there........something you forgot to do !!!
GotSmart
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For less expensive lengths of #2 wire, look at the jumper cables at parts houses. At this time for example, Autozone has Duralast Gold/20 ft. 2 AWG battery booster cables for $50.00 That is 2 lengths of color coded wire.
If you are going to do it right~~~ might as well save if you can. When I am ready to do this, I will be doing another search. That was just an example. Most of what I found at Amazon is a different AWG than advertised.
If you are going to do it right~~~ might as well save if you can. When I am ready to do this, I will be doing another search. That was just an example. Most of what I found at Amazon is a different AWG than advertised.
SternWake
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Be careful of Jumper cables. They might be aluminum, or copper clad aluminum. They need to be significantly thicker to have the same voltage drop as pure copper cables.
My buddy just ordered some lengths of 1/0 gauge wire from E bay. The price was suspicious to me and I raised the possibility they were CCA or just Aluminum. He contacted the seller making sure it was pure copper and not CCA or just aluminum before placing the order. He received Aluminum wire, and sent it back.
I've got an 11 foot run of doubled 4 awg copper jumper cables between my alternator (+) stud and manual battery switch.
And much upgraded grounds too.
I have a 140 amp circuit breaker on this parallel charging circuit. When I press the button to open the circuit, only 1/3 the amperage flows to the depleted battery over the original alternator charging circuit, compared to when I have this additional parallel charging circuit closed.
If one is serious about making a fat alternator charging circuit. Welding wire is a good option as it is very flexible, which makes routing much easier.
The quality of the ring terminals and how they are attached to the cable, is very important too. Proper tools and skills are required.
Here is a source which will use top quality cables and ring terminals and attach them properly.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables
I bought 50 feet of 8awg from them for my solar circuit. It arrived 5 days later
My buddy just ordered some lengths of 1/0 gauge wire from E bay. The price was suspicious to me and I raised the possibility they were CCA or just Aluminum. He contacted the seller making sure it was pure copper and not CCA or just aluminum before placing the order. He received Aluminum wire, and sent it back.
I've got an 11 foot run of doubled 4 awg copper jumper cables between my alternator (+) stud and manual battery switch.
And much upgraded grounds too.
I have a 140 amp circuit breaker on this parallel charging circuit. When I press the button to open the circuit, only 1/3 the amperage flows to the depleted battery over the original alternator charging circuit, compared to when I have this additional parallel charging circuit closed.
If one is serious about making a fat alternator charging circuit. Welding wire is a good option as it is very flexible, which makes routing much easier.
The quality of the ring terminals and how they are attached to the cable, is very important too. Proper tools and skills are required.
Here is a source which will use top quality cables and ring terminals and attach them properly.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables
I bought 50 feet of 8awg from them for my solar circuit. It arrived 5 days later
highdesertranger
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well lucky mike I was referring to the diode type isolators that sternwake was talking about. I really have no idea what type of isolator you are referring to because your link doesn't work for me. I get page not found error. but I have allot of experience with diode isolators, replacing them because of failures or customers complaints of dead batteries. not trying to start an argument like I said I was replying to sternwake's post. highdesertranger
SternWake
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Generally I try, on this forum, to inform people of the electrical options available. I am uncomfortable recommending an outright plan or product. I will list links to products, but I am not telling people outright what to buy and how they should do it. I do try and steer people away from making mistakes. And I have a hard time when I see inaccurate or incomplete information posted which might cause problems for them down the road.
About the Ambulances, armored cars and fire apparatus, these vehicles have their batteries paid for by taxpayers or large corporations. Their main concern is the engine being able to start, not the health and longevity of an auxiliary battery. A diode isolator is fine, if the main purpose is allowing the engine to always be started. But if the goal is fast and full recharging of an Auxiliary battery, they are far from that end, and every other option I listed will recharge the auxiliary battery better.
Right in the title of this thread is "Cheap". People coming here generally don't have a hundred grand to spend on an RV. They need power, they need battery and a method to recharge that battery. They are likely trying to figure out how to do the work themselves, or are figuring out if it is within their skill level to learn and complete on their own. Or perhaps they want to learn as much as possible so that they are not taken for a ride by whomever they pay to do the work for them.
If that battery is not properly recharged, at some point it will fail prematurely, and I believe Murphy was an optimist. The battery will fail in the boonies far away from any warranty service, at the worst possible time for a fairly major expenditure.
My long winded post, written with 3 beers in me, no smoke, was intended to inform anybody reading, who does not already have a grasp of DC electricity, of the methods available to allow alternator charging of an otherwise isolated battery.
I don't say any which one or method is best, or do this, or that, because I think it is best. I do my best to not be influenced by clever marketing or jump on bandwagons about any particular product, especially if I have no personal experience said product.
Often I am called a bit negative by those that know me, or whom I work for. I cannot really argue this point I am a troubleshooter by nature. In any course of action I am looking well ahead as to why any possible route might,or might not, be able to achieve the desired outcome in either a timely or financially responsible manner. I despise waste, or conspicuous consumption, and my bluntness is offputting to many who have been handled with kid gloves their whole lives.
The Diode isolators are not inexpensive, and they are not the best method for recharging an auxiliary battery.
If the vehicle is only driven a little bit each day, and the battery discharged every night to some degree, it is important, very important, that as much recharging current can be fed into the battery as is feasible, not only to power things the next night, but for the longevity of the battery itself. Far too many people act like the alternator is a magical instant battery charger that is making free electricity and that all one has to do to a dead battery is charge it, or drive around the block twice, and all is hunky dorry.
Batteries are like Gas tanks which shrink as they age. Most people have no idea how much "gas" this tank holds, how much is left in the tank, and how much they even need from the tank, how much they are using from the tank or how much they are putting back in the tank, or even that the tank is shrinking and that their behavior directly effects the rate at which this tank shrinks.
Many will have a system and say it works perfectly and the batteries are just as good as new, but they have no way to determine this, just that "it still works". Until it does not and Murphy's law will come in and ruin an adventure or cause an unexpected financial hardship, or perhaps worse.
Everything is a trade off, everything is always a compromise. In the quest to save money, often people will have to spend more money after failure of a component or general plan. I am certainly guilty of doing this in the past and probably the present too. My efforts here are to help people from making mistakes, especially those I've learned the hard way.
If I ruffle a few feathers, or get my feathers ruffled, so be it. Humans are way too sensitive and emotional these days.
About the Ambulances, armored cars and fire apparatus, these vehicles have their batteries paid for by taxpayers or large corporations. Their main concern is the engine being able to start, not the health and longevity of an auxiliary battery. A diode isolator is fine, if the main purpose is allowing the engine to always be started. But if the goal is fast and full recharging of an Auxiliary battery, they are far from that end, and every other option I listed will recharge the auxiliary battery better.
Right in the title of this thread is "Cheap". People coming here generally don't have a hundred grand to spend on an RV. They need power, they need battery and a method to recharge that battery. They are likely trying to figure out how to do the work themselves, or are figuring out if it is within their skill level to learn and complete on their own. Or perhaps they want to learn as much as possible so that they are not taken for a ride by whomever they pay to do the work for them.
If that battery is not properly recharged, at some point it will fail prematurely, and I believe Murphy was an optimist. The battery will fail in the boonies far away from any warranty service, at the worst possible time for a fairly major expenditure.
My long winded post, written with 3 beers in me, no smoke, was intended to inform anybody reading, who does not already have a grasp of DC electricity, of the methods available to allow alternator charging of an otherwise isolated battery.
I don't say any which one or method is best, or do this, or that, because I think it is best. I do my best to not be influenced by clever marketing or jump on bandwagons about any particular product, especially if I have no personal experience said product.
Often I am called a bit negative by those that know me, or whom I work for. I cannot really argue this point I am a troubleshooter by nature. In any course of action I am looking well ahead as to why any possible route might,or might not, be able to achieve the desired outcome in either a timely or financially responsible manner. I despise waste, or conspicuous consumption, and my bluntness is offputting to many who have been handled with kid gloves their whole lives.
The Diode isolators are not inexpensive, and they are not the best method for recharging an auxiliary battery.
If the vehicle is only driven a little bit each day, and the battery discharged every night to some degree, it is important, very important, that as much recharging current can be fed into the battery as is feasible, not only to power things the next night, but for the longevity of the battery itself. Far too many people act like the alternator is a magical instant battery charger that is making free electricity and that all one has to do to a dead battery is charge it, or drive around the block twice, and all is hunky dorry.
Batteries are like Gas tanks which shrink as they age. Most people have no idea how much "gas" this tank holds, how much is left in the tank, and how much they even need from the tank, how much they are using from the tank or how much they are putting back in the tank, or even that the tank is shrinking and that their behavior directly effects the rate at which this tank shrinks.
Many will have a system and say it works perfectly and the batteries are just as good as new, but they have no way to determine this, just that "it still works". Until it does not and Murphy's law will come in and ruin an adventure or cause an unexpected financial hardship, or perhaps worse.
Everything is a trade off, everything is always a compromise. In the quest to save money, often people will have to spend more money after failure of a component or general plan. I am certainly guilty of doing this in the past and probably the present too. My efforts here are to help people from making mistakes, especially those I've learned the hard way.
If I ruffle a few feathers, or get my feathers ruffled, so be it. Humans are way too sensitive and emotional these days.
Optimistic Paranoid
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Btw, Sternwake, have you had a look at the battery isolators Hellroaring makes?
Instead of using diodes, they are using, I think, MOSFETs. They claim that instead of the usual .8 volt loss, their approach results in only a .05 volt loss.
In other words, instead of putting 14 volts into the isolator and only getting 13.2 volts out, you put 14 volts into theirs and you get 13.95 volts out.
A google search on Hellroaring Isolator will take you to their very interesting site.
Regards
John
Instead of using diodes, they are using, I think, MOSFETs. They claim that instead of the usual .8 volt loss, their approach results in only a .05 volt loss.
In other words, instead of putting 14 volts into the isolator and only getting 13.2 volts out, you put 14 volts into theirs and you get 13.95 volts out.
A google search on Hellroaring Isolator will take you to their very interesting site.
Regards
John
SternWake
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The less voltage drop is certainly desirable, as are no moving parts.
I had heard of HellRoaring( hard name to forget), and knew there was one finned heat sink 'isolator' out there claiming negligible voltage drop but did not put the two together. I think there is another diode based isolator using diodes that cause much less voltage drop than traditional too, perhaps only .2 volts rather than .8v. Not sure about who makes those.
It is a 185$ option and good to be aware of. Thanks.
Solenoids Smart or Dumb, do eventually wear out. If a dumb solenoid is parallelled during engine starting then the house battery will contribute current to the starter. The contacts in the solenoid do take exception to many cycles of this.
The problem is that the contacts in the solenoid might fuse together. Unless the vehicle owner has a voltmeter for each battery and actually watches them, if the solenoid's contacts have fused together, then there is no battery isolation and the user can run down both batteries and be left stranded. The older the solenoid and the more cycles, the more the likelihood of failure.
Once the contacts within the solenoid get crusty from repeated use or just bad quality, they will cause voltage drop and heating too. There is no feasible way to open the solenoid to inspect the contacts or clean them.
The Simple dumb solenoid is the easiest and likely cheapest method to have an isolated battery charged by the alternator automatically, but it is not perfect, nor foolproof. Perhaps this hellroaring product would be much superior to a dumb solenoid, especially after years of use, presuming the HR does not also somehow wear out. If the solenoid contacts do fuse, and leave the user stranded then it has not done its job.
I am not sure on the expected cycle life of a simple solenoid in actual use. This one 'claims' 50,000 cycles.
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/pdf/SAS_4202.pdf
Users of solenoids should occassionally check to see that the ( non latching) solenoid is clicking when fed 12 volts or when 12volts is removed. Latching solenoids need only a brief momentary blast of 12v to latch or unlatch. One can also take voltage readings on either side of the solenoid and measure the voltage drop across it. This VD will increase with age and use. How much and how fast, depends on the quality of the solenoid.
If the solenoid is getting hot, then one should replace it. Voltmeters with sense wires attached directly to the battery terminals themselves are very helpful. I've installed 2 tiny ones on my dashboard and it is very enlightening to watch them as I drive.
I also recommend finding a solenoid activation circuit that is NOT live with the engine cranking. If one frequently puts the key in the accessory position, one should also make sure the trigger circuit is not live in this position.
If one is running a fridge there exists the possibility of transient voltage spikes from the starter motor backfeeding and damaging the circuit board, so it is desirable to not have the Aux battery contribute to engine starting every single time, as well as for solenoid longevity
Not passing starter current through the solenoid will greatly increase its lifespan. On many vehicles the blower motor circuit is not live with the engine cranking. One can also add a (lighted)toggle switch to any circuit so they have the option of manually choosing to combine or isolate the batteries. I have a lighted toggle switch on my reverse lights. Often it is not enough to remind me to turn the switch off after putting the transmission in a forward gear. So The lighted toggle switch is not foolproof either.
Notice that the solenoid linked to above requires .83 amps to hold the contacts closed. That .83 amps is .83 amps not making it into a depleted battery. Not a huge number, but measurable. Users of Solar who wish to manually operate a solenoid to share solar electrons with the engine battery, that .83 amps is a Significant portion of most solar setups.
Dual sense Smart solenoids are not recommended for those with solar. Dual sense devices will combine the batteries when either battery is receiving charging voltages. Single sense when only one battery is.
I've personally chosen the full manual route for my system, using a manual switch. Actually I use 3 Blue Seas switches, One for the Ignition, one for all the house loads, and one for the Solar. Basically I can choose either battery to be the starting battery or either to be the house battery, and I can choose to send solar current to either independent of the other. Of course any switch turned to 'Both', negates the position of the other 2 switches.
Such manual control does require the user be on top of things. Yesterday I paralleled the batteries after my solar had filled my house battery, but forgot to separate them until after dark, so My attempt to top off the engine battery too, was foiled as I took some amps from it during that time after sundown. Not nearly enough to cause a starting issue though.
The manual switches can and do wear out too. I had a Guest Switch for over a decade, and I began to notice voltage drop across it, and that it was getting warm when my alternator was making 65+ amps. My new Blue Seas Switches are of a higher rating and seemingly higher build quality.
Having this much control over where current flows is also very enlightening, when one has the interest and tools to measure current and desire to experiment. But my Electrical wall is kind of intimidating looking.
So difficult to make wiring look organized.
I had heard of HellRoaring( hard name to forget), and knew there was one finned heat sink 'isolator' out there claiming negligible voltage drop but did not put the two together. I think there is another diode based isolator using diodes that cause much less voltage drop than traditional too, perhaps only .2 volts rather than .8v. Not sure about who makes those.
It is a 185$ option and good to be aware of. Thanks.
Solenoids Smart or Dumb, do eventually wear out. If a dumb solenoid is parallelled during engine starting then the house battery will contribute current to the starter. The contacts in the solenoid do take exception to many cycles of this.
The problem is that the contacts in the solenoid might fuse together. Unless the vehicle owner has a voltmeter for each battery and actually watches them, if the solenoid's contacts have fused together, then there is no battery isolation and the user can run down both batteries and be left stranded. The older the solenoid and the more cycles, the more the likelihood of failure.
Once the contacts within the solenoid get crusty from repeated use or just bad quality, they will cause voltage drop and heating too. There is no feasible way to open the solenoid to inspect the contacts or clean them.
The Simple dumb solenoid is the easiest and likely cheapest method to have an isolated battery charged by the alternator automatically, but it is not perfect, nor foolproof. Perhaps this hellroaring product would be much superior to a dumb solenoid, especially after years of use, presuming the HR does not also somehow wear out. If the solenoid contacts do fuse, and leave the user stranded then it has not done its job.
I am not sure on the expected cycle life of a simple solenoid in actual use. This one 'claims' 50,000 cycles.
http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/pdf/SAS_4202.pdf
Users of solenoids should occassionally check to see that the ( non latching) solenoid is clicking when fed 12 volts or when 12volts is removed. Latching solenoids need only a brief momentary blast of 12v to latch or unlatch. One can also take voltage readings on either side of the solenoid and measure the voltage drop across it. This VD will increase with age and use. How much and how fast, depends on the quality of the solenoid.
If the solenoid is getting hot, then one should replace it. Voltmeters with sense wires attached directly to the battery terminals themselves are very helpful. I've installed 2 tiny ones on my dashboard and it is very enlightening to watch them as I drive.
I also recommend finding a solenoid activation circuit that is NOT live with the engine cranking. If one frequently puts the key in the accessory position, one should also make sure the trigger circuit is not live in this position.
If one is running a fridge there exists the possibility of transient voltage spikes from the starter motor backfeeding and damaging the circuit board, so it is desirable to not have the Aux battery contribute to engine starting every single time, as well as for solenoid longevity
Not passing starter current through the solenoid will greatly increase its lifespan. On many vehicles the blower motor circuit is not live with the engine cranking. One can also add a (lighted)toggle switch to any circuit so they have the option of manually choosing to combine or isolate the batteries. I have a lighted toggle switch on my reverse lights. Often it is not enough to remind me to turn the switch off after putting the transmission in a forward gear. So The lighted toggle switch is not foolproof either.
Notice that the solenoid linked to above requires .83 amps to hold the contacts closed. That .83 amps is .83 amps not making it into a depleted battery. Not a huge number, but measurable. Users of Solar who wish to manually operate a solenoid to share solar electrons with the engine battery, that .83 amps is a Significant portion of most solar setups.
Dual sense Smart solenoids are not recommended for those with solar. Dual sense devices will combine the batteries when either battery is receiving charging voltages. Single sense when only one battery is.
I've personally chosen the full manual route for my system, using a manual switch. Actually I use 3 Blue Seas switches, One for the Ignition, one for all the house loads, and one for the Solar. Basically I can choose either battery to be the starting battery or either to be the house battery, and I can choose to send solar current to either independent of the other. Of course any switch turned to 'Both', negates the position of the other 2 switches.
Such manual control does require the user be on top of things. Yesterday I paralleled the batteries after my solar had filled my house battery, but forgot to separate them until after dark, so My attempt to top off the engine battery too, was foiled as I took some amps from it during that time after sundown. Not nearly enough to cause a starting issue though.
The manual switches can and do wear out too. I had a Guest Switch for over a decade, and I began to notice voltage drop across it, and that it was getting warm when my alternator was making 65+ amps. My new Blue Seas Switches are of a higher rating and seemingly higher build quality.
Having this much control over where current flows is also very enlightening, when one has the interest and tools to measure current and desire to experiment. But my Electrical wall is kind of intimidating looking.
So difficult to make wiring look organized.
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I gotta say that I VERY much appreciate Sternwake and his amazing and generous willingness to share information with the forum!!
His posts are accurate and reasonable 100% of the time. He can make a very complex subject reasonably understandable. I almost always learn something from him!
I bow to you as the master!
Bob
His posts are accurate and reasonable 100% of the time. He can make a very complex subject reasonably understandable. I almost always learn something from him!
I bow to you as the master!
Bob
Lucky mike
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I've decided it a bad thing or point some one in any direction or help with a project on the Forum so...........
My preference and had the best performance from a Heart Charging system.
your mileage and wallet costs may vary!!!! .....everyone has a budget so depending on how much your willing to spend will dictate what you will buy.......Sears has several quality units with boost capabilities.
My preference and had the best performance from a Heart Charging system.
your mileage and wallet costs may vary!!!! .....everyone has a budget so depending on how much your willing to spend will dictate what you will buy.......Sears has several quality units with boost capabilities.
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I'm not sure what you mean by small, but I have this one and I've been very happy with it:
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-10030A-SpeedCharge-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B001MYWBF0/
It is a smart charger so it will let you set the amps and then monitor the battery and keep dropping the maps to just what the battery will take and then function as a trickle charger.
Bob
http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC-10030A-SpeedCharge-Automatic-Maintainer/dp/B001MYWBF0/
It is a smart charger so it will let you set the amps and then monitor the battery and keep dropping the maps to just what the battery will take and then function as a trickle charger.
Bob
SternWake
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Thanks Bob. Although I don't consider myself a master. Still too much to learn...
A battery charger should be sized, amperage wise, to the battery manufacturer recommendations, for best battery longevity.
It is not always easy to find the manufacturer specs, and they seem to change their recommendations slightly too.
If you plan on using 12 volt devices while charging the battery with a plug in charger, a regular automatic portable battery "smart"charger with alligator clamps might get confused and shut down when you turn something on or off.
RV converters are battery chargers designed to act as power supplies to 12 volt loads, while properly recharging the batteries. Meaning they will not get confused when you turn electrical accessories on or off while the battery is being charged.
Iota, progressive dynamics, Powermax among some other brands seem to be the most popular choice these days. They come in all sorts of different amperage chargers, from 15 amps upto 100 amps.
It is hard to recommend a size ( amperage wise) charger without knowing the battery you plan on charging with it. Some AGM batteries like Odyssey and Lifeline want very high bulk (initial) charging current. Like a hundred amp hour battery wanting 40 amps. Other AGM like Deka want no more than 20 amps per 100 amp hours of capacity.
USbattery recommends feeding my flooded group 31 10% of the amp hour capacity, only 13 amps. But I will let my alternator feed it 50+ amps.
Not meeting the manufacturer specs is not instantly going to cause battery failure, it is just something to shoot for. Finding a charger that exactly meets the charging specs of any particular battery is not easy.
If you plan on charging the battery with all 12 volt accessories turned off, then a regular battery charger sold in stores should work fine.
I have an older Automatic Schumacher sc2500a which will occasionally go up into 16 volt range though. This can be dangerous territory for electronics still hooked to the battery. Most regular battery chargers sold in stores will instruct the user to disconnect the battery, electrically, from the vehicle before charging .
Rv converters require the owner to run cables from the converter to the battery. The cables are not provided, but most do just plug into a standard 15 amp outlet.
. If you plan on using 12v devices when plugged in and charging the battery, I recommend a RV converter over a portable store bought battery charger.
A battery charger should be sized, amperage wise, to the battery manufacturer recommendations, for best battery longevity.
It is not always easy to find the manufacturer specs, and they seem to change their recommendations slightly too.
If you plan on using 12 volt devices while charging the battery with a plug in charger, a regular automatic portable battery "smart"charger with alligator clamps might get confused and shut down when you turn something on or off.
RV converters are battery chargers designed to act as power supplies to 12 volt loads, while properly recharging the batteries. Meaning they will not get confused when you turn electrical accessories on or off while the battery is being charged.
Iota, progressive dynamics, Powermax among some other brands seem to be the most popular choice these days. They come in all sorts of different amperage chargers, from 15 amps upto 100 amps.
It is hard to recommend a size ( amperage wise) charger without knowing the battery you plan on charging with it. Some AGM batteries like Odyssey and Lifeline want very high bulk (initial) charging current. Like a hundred amp hour battery wanting 40 amps. Other AGM like Deka want no more than 20 amps per 100 amp hours of capacity.
USbattery recommends feeding my flooded group 31 10% of the amp hour capacity, only 13 amps. But I will let my alternator feed it 50+ amps.
Not meeting the manufacturer specs is not instantly going to cause battery failure, it is just something to shoot for. Finding a charger that exactly meets the charging specs of any particular battery is not easy.
If you plan on charging the battery with all 12 volt accessories turned off, then a regular battery charger sold in stores should work fine.
I have an older Automatic Schumacher sc2500a which will occasionally go up into 16 volt range though. This can be dangerous territory for electronics still hooked to the battery. Most regular battery chargers sold in stores will instruct the user to disconnect the battery, electrically, from the vehicle before charging .
Rv converters require the owner to run cables from the converter to the battery. The cables are not provided, but most do just plug into a standard 15 amp outlet.
. If you plan on using 12v devices when plugged in and charging the battery, I recommend a RV converter over a portable store bought battery charger.
well i would like something similar to the size of the one akrvbob posted also the battery I'm going to be charging is the car quest battery i posted about at the start of this thread which is a rebranded deka . and i need to charge my starting battery for a buick i have which is just a 78 series walmart battery its one of there yellow everstart batteries.
obviously different manufacturers have different specs so i guess i just need a basic general all around charger since i will have one gam and one regular battery.
obviously different manufacturers have different specs so i guess i just need a basic general all around charger since i will have one gam and one regular battery.
SternWake
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I cannot find the Deka intimidator recommended charging Specs. Memory tells me it was c/5 or 20% and 14.5v max meaning 21 amps for that 105a/h battery. I'll try again to find where I read those deka agm specs and post back if successful.
Schumacher makes good portable chargers.
The flooded battery will be more tolerant of wider current ranges
My schumacher will act like a power source and charger like a rv converter, on the 12 amp setting, but once the battery is near full the voltage swings too widely when my compressor fridge, a sub 3 amp load, cycles on or off.
The Voltmeter on my Schumacher reads .2v low.
If you plan on not changing the loads on the battery while it is charging it should be fine
Okay, found it, and so much for my memory. Deka says no more than 30%, so ~ 30 amps for that 105 a/h battery you are considering.
That 2/12/30 amp Schumacher should work well as long as you do not load the battery while it is charging.
http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1913.pdf
Schumacher makes good portable chargers.
The flooded battery will be more tolerant of wider current ranges
My schumacher will act like a power source and charger like a rv converter, on the 12 amp setting, but once the battery is near full the voltage swings too widely when my compressor fridge, a sub 3 amp load, cycles on or off.
The Voltmeter on my Schumacher reads .2v low.
If you plan on not changing the loads on the battery while it is charging it should be fine
Okay, found it, and so much for my memory. Deka says no more than 30%, so ~ 30 amps for that 105 a/h battery you are considering.
That 2/12/30 amp Schumacher should work well as long as you do not load the battery while it is charging.
http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1913.pdf
