Carla's Camper

[RonDean]

I use a wool blanket and love it. Here is what I use:

https://a.co/d/bRKkSzJ
And this zero degree bag: https://a.co/d/2WY40Jg

And this comforter (bought because I liked the pattern:

https://a.co/d/c2Lf2mu
And sheets. And stupid memory foam, which I want to get rid of. It came with the trailer.

The electric blanket is for when it is in low teens and below zero. In case I make a wrong turn and end up in northern Minnesota

If you get a wool blanket in a nice Scottish tartan you can also use it as a great kilt should you happen across any Celtic gatherings.

 

[user 22017]

Also, I have seen several weight distributing hitches on marketplace and they run about 1/4 to 1/2 the price of new. Might b one near u for sale. Best Wishes

After searching Marketplace and craigslist I was/am ready to give up on buying a used one. There are plenty available, but I'm unfamiliar with weight distribution hitches. So I sent my mechanic screenshots of the installers Curt (Curt the hitch manufacturer) uses and told him I wanted to buy the new Curt hitch e-trailer recommended. It is $600. The mechanic says I should buy used. I wouldn't know if all the parts were there on a used one.

I think tomorrow I will call the installers on the list from Curt and ask for ballpark figures. U-Haul is on the list.

My truck should finally be ready tomorrow. The mechanic said the odometer module has been repaired and was on it's way back to Illinois from Missouri. Mechanic said putting the instrument cluster back in will be fast and easy.

That oil type substance in my driveway was brake fluid. He replaced the brake line. He also moved the pin where you plug in the electric from the trailer. It was located closer to my cab, because the previous truck owner towed a fifth wheel.

I bought a backup camera for my truck weeks ago (still uninstalled), but now that I have a trailer, I'll want one for the trailer. Also need a new brake controller, since mine is quite old (I assume). I saw the one Camper bought on Amazon, but my options are more limited. Maybe because of my truck's age.

Jeez, this is taking forever. Sometimes I wish I had bought a Class C. I'd be long gone by now. Maybe, lol.

 

[user 22017]

Looks Great Congrats! I'd recommend a load equalizing hitch, Harbor Freight shows $219.
-10% if you're a club member & I get a 25% off coupon I could forward. Makes a big difference going over RR tracks or going in & out of some gas stations.

HAUL-MASTER10,000 lb. Capacity Weight-Distributing Hitch​

It's so much cheaper than the one e-trailer recommended. Even with the sway bar, it is still $300-$400 cheaper. And the Curt is 8,000 pound capacity. Is

Harbor Freight a trustworthy brand? Maybe I'm not comparing apples & apples.

https://www.harborfreight.com/10000-lb-capacity-weight-distributing-hitch-system-67649.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/CURT/C17499.html

 

[user 22017]

For a cold climate where you are just going to run an extension cord from a house over to a van but do not want to have to run it through an open window or door you can install a thru wall fitting to handle the task. Then on the interior you can put in an outlet box or else a pigtail fitting to plug the heater into. Having everything rated for at least 15amps AC is a good for preventing overheating of the wiring. The fitting shown in the photo is one such thru hull connection where the opening to install it requires a standard holesaw. Use a bimetal hole saw if you you are cutting through a metal wall such as on a van or metal skinned travel trailer. Using this type of fitting keeps things water and wind proofed and helps conserve keep. It is a professional approach. I installed one on my travel trailer during the renovation and all new electrical setup as I wanted to have alternative choices of incoming power to meet a variety of camping situations.

Maybe I can get that done at Pirate Camp.

Do you know if there are covers for my plug (where it plugs into the extension cord)? There is a gap exposing the prongs and it freaks me out a bit in the rain. All that water running over the prongs. I guess there is an explanation for why I don't see sparks and hear crackling sounds

If only I knew about electricity.

Edit: is this what I want?

 

[Gr8ful]

I used the HF hitch when hauling machinery & it worked great for me. Just trying to save you $$$. Has very good reviews. PM your e-mail if you want the 25% off coupon.

 

[user 22017]

Thank you, Gr8ful

 

[bullfrog !]

I also have used the Harbor Freight hitches with no problems. You can look on line if you know the manufacturer of the hitch and see what is included or needed with usually an illustration of the parts. Many times the bar connections to the trailer are missing as they can either be welded or bolted. Once welded they stay with the trailer. You may have some already on your trailer which can be problematic if they are welded and in the wrong place for the ones you buy or if a different style as different manufacturers use different systems sometimes. Also you may need a piece of pipe to use as a lever when hitching up as often the supplied handle goes missing. There are lots of informative videos on YouTube on how to install different ones and how to hitch up with them, and how they work. Watch them all, your time to learn is now before you spend money on something that you need to work well every mile you travel! They are built pretty sturdy and should last so buying used is recommended.

 

[Malamute]

I suspect your brake controller will probably work, someone here may know more.

 

[user 22017]

I suspect your brake controller will probably work, someone here may know more.

Just looked it up and they still make them: https://hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/braking/brake-controllers/47225.html

Took a pic of mine. Normally the light is green even with the truck turned off. If I slide a bar to the left (or hit the brake pedal) it turns yellow.

(Looks like I need to dust my cab!)

 

[user 22017]

I also have used the Harbor Freight hitches with no problems. You can look on line if you know the manufacturer of the hitch and see what is included or needed with usually an illustration of the parts. Many times the bar connections to the trailer are missing as they can either be welded or bolted. Once welded they stay with the trailer. You may have some already on your trailer which can be problematic if they are welded and in the wrong place for the ones you buy or if a different style as different manufacturers use different systems sometimes. Also you may need a piece of pipe to use as a lever when hitching up as often the supplied handle goes missing. There are lots of informative videos on YouTube on how to install different ones and how to hitch up with them, and how they work. Watch them all, your time to learn is now before you spend money on something that you need to work well every mile you travel! They are built pretty sturdy and should last so buying used is recommended.

Thank you, Bullfrog. I picked up my truck today and spoke with the mechanic about the Harbor Freight distribution hitch. He will put it on after the holiday. They have it in stock here.

I told him I wanted my truck back for Christmas shopping and errands.

Anyway, brakes work and the instrument cluster is working again... but it seems to have quite a few more miles on the odometer. Before going in it read 103k... now 104, 500. Strange.

 

[NctryBen]

Thank you, Bullfrog. I picked up my truck today and spoke with the mechanic about the Harbor Freight distribution hitch. He will put it on after the holiday. They have it in stock here.

I told him I wanted my truck back for Christmas shopping and errands.

Anyway, brakes work and the instrument cluster is working again... but it seems to have quite a few more miles on the odometer. Before going in it read 103k... now 104, 500. Strange.

Apparently your mechanic had Christmas shopping to do also… haha!

 

[user 22017]

Apparently your mechanic had Christmas shopping to do also… haha!

And here I thought it had something to do with fixing the odometer module, LOL!

 

[towboater]

After searching Marketplace and craigslist I was/am ready to give up on buying a used one. There are plenty available, but I'm unfamiliar with weight distribution hitches. So I sent my mechanic screenshots of the installers Curt (Curt the hitch manufacturer) uses and told him I wanted to buy the new Curt hitch e-trailer recommended. It is $600. The mechanic says I should buy used. I wouldn't know if all the parts were there on a used one.

I think tomorrow I will call the installers on the list from Curt and ask for ballpark figures. U-Haul is on the list.

My truck should finally be ready tomorrow. The mechanic said the odometer module has been repaired and was on it's way back to Illinois from Missouri. Mechanic said putting the instrument cluster back in will be fast and easy.

That oil type substance in my driveway was brake fluid. He replaced the brake line. He also moved the pin where you plug in the electric from the trailer. It was located closer to my cab, because the previous truck owner towed a fifth wheel.

I bought a backup camera for my truck weeks ago (still uninstalled), but now that I have a trailer, I'll want one for the trailer. Also need a new brake controller, since mine is quite old (I assume). I saw the one Camper bought on Amazon, but my options are more limited. Maybe because of my truck's age.

Jeez, this is taking forever. Sometimes I wish I had bought a Class C. I'd be long gone by now. Maybe, lol.

If a new one gives u piece of mind, then definitely that is the thing to do.

 

[maki2]

Maybe I can get that done at Pirate Camp.

Do you know if there are covers for my plug (where it plugs into the extension cord)? There is a gap exposing the prongs and it freaks me out a bit in the rain. All that water running over the prongs. I guess there is an explanation for why I don't see sparks and hear crackling sounds

If only I knew about electricity.

Edit: is this what I want?

The lines are not going to short out if some water gets in that connector. No need to freak out about it. However keeping dirt out of the receptacle end of the plug is a good idea as that can interfere with the plug not making a good tight connection. I travel with a spray can of electrical contact cleaner to flush out plug ends if it looks like there is a lot of dirt accumulated. You want to be able to easily remove those connectors when you get into camp to avoid any potential parasitic drain on your tow vehicle’s starter battery.

If you want to know about electricity just start learning. You already know how to learn more about electricity. You were given independent research projects at school to teach you how to learn about a subject, in depth, all on your own, without a teacher giving you information in a classroom.

 

[user 22017]

Thanks maki

 

[Malamute]

The lines are not going to short out if some water gets in that connector.

I thought that in the past. A guy that worked for me asked several times about my cords being exposed outside, he said hed seen it happen before. I had no trouble, until i did. the plug was in enough water it shorted across the plug prongs, sparked and turned the plug black and tripped the breaker. I then started using a plastic coffee can with slots and holes for the plug ends and cord to go through, and it sat upside down on the ground so water could drain.

So, perhaps not a huge deal, but slightly startling when it happens and you lose power until turning the breaker back on.

 

[tx2sturgis]

It's so much cheaper than the one e-trailer recommended. Even with the sway bar, it is still $300-$400 cheaper. And the Curt is 8,000 pound capacity. Is

Harbor Freight a trustworthy brand? Maybe I'm not comparing apples & apples.

There are weight distributing hitches WITH and WITHOUT sway control.

The HF hitch does not include sway control. You really SHOULD have sway control on a large bumper-pull travel trailer.

Be sure to compare 'apples to apples'.

[mod edit: I see that HF does offer an add-on sway control kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/trailer-sway-control-kit-96462.html]

 

[tx2sturgis]

I travel with a spray can of electrical contact cleaner to flush out plug ends if it looks like there is a lot of dirt accumulated.

Good plan. I use a variety of sprays (whatever is handy) to clear out the residual crud that ends up in the 7-way RV receptacle and matching plug.

WD-40, PB Blaster, ACF-50, silicone spray, anything that will blast the dust and crud away and then coat the pins to help reduce oxidation and corrosion, not to mention help reduce the physical weardown as the metal pins slide in and out.

It is also important to keep the spring-loaded plastic or rubber cover in place to help protect from road dust and crud ending up in the receptacle.

 

[user 22017]

There are weight distributing hitches WITH and WITHOUT sway control.

The HF hitch does not include sway control. You really SHOULD have sway control on a large bumper-pull travel trailer.

Be sure to compare 'apples to apples'.

The sway bar was $50 (about) iirc. That's why I said even with the sway bar it is cheaper by hundreds.

 

[maki2]

Good plan. I use a variety of sprays (whatever is handy) to clear out the residual crud that ends up in the 7-way RV receptacle and matching plug.

WD-40, PB Blaster, ACF-50, silicone spray, anything that will blast the dust and crud away and then coat the pins to help reduce oxidation and corrosion, not to mention help reduce the physical weardown as the metal pins slide in and out.

It is also important to keep the spring-loaded plastic or rubber cover in place to help protect from road dust and crud ending up in the receptacle.

No need to respond to me….
i am not the person who was asking for or is in need of advice. I have lots of types of maintenance lubricants and other types of treatments besides canned air in my maintenance kit. Do not worry about me because my 7 way receptacle has a spring loaded dust cover built into it.