Carla's Camper

[user 22017]

Thanks Rose. Good to know.

 

[keebler]

congratulations

 

[Malamute]

I was going to tell you not to worry about blowing out the lines so long as you pumped out all the water, then dumped a gallon or two of pink RV antifreese into the water tank and ran it through all the lines and put some in the drains traps, but thats been covered, so seconding the motion.

I think I put a bypass in the line for my water heater and drained it (pretty simple), and just made sure all the lines had the pink antifreeze in them. You should be good with whats done already. For travel when cold i think I mainly used some jugs of water until in a warmer area and could utilize the main water system without worry.

 

[user 22017]

congratulations

Thanks keebler

 

[user 22017]

I think I put a bypass in the line for my water heater and drained it (pretty simple), and just made sure all the lines had the pink antifreeze in them. You should be good with whats done already. For travel when cold i think I mainly used some jugs of water until in a warmer area and could utilize the main water system without worry.

Hi Malamute,

That's my plan. Boy was it cold in there this morning! 26 degrees.

When I get the RV extension cord to run power to the trailer (on Tuesday), I think Ben said only run one space heater at a time. But maybe he meant while I am using the regular orange extension cord. I have several bigger space heaters in my basement. Think I want to swap this small ceramic one for an oil filled radiator.

Thank you

 

[minanimal]

We use an oil-filled radiant heater quite a bit in a large camper. Some of the benefits are no noise, very safe, doesn't dry the air much, and ours has temperature settings and a timer. It's always comfortable for us. The only downside I can think of is that it takes up some floor space. Lots of campers will run an electric heater on a dropcord to power an electric heater - separate from the RV power cord, plugged into a regular 120V receptacle, and routed inside some way. That way, you can use a microwave, hair dryer, etc. without tripping a breaker.

 

[maki2]

For a cold climate where you are just going to run an extension cord from a house over to a van but do not want to have to run it through an open window or door you can install a thru wall fitting to handle the task. Then on the interior you can put in an outlet box or else a pigtail fitting to plug the heater into. Having everything rated for at least 15amps AC is a good for preventing overheating of the wiring. The fitting shown in the photo is one such thru hull connection where the opening to install it requires a standard holesaw. Use a bimetal hole saw if you you are cutting through a metal wall such as on a van or metal skinned travel trailer. Using this type of fitting keeps things water and wind proofed and helps conserve keep. It is a professional approach. I installed one on my travel trailer during the renovation and all new electrical setup as I wanted to have alternative choices of incoming power to meet a variety of camping situations.

 

[user 22017]

Lots of campers will run an electric heater on a dropcord to power an electric heater - separate from the RV power cord, plugged into a regular 120V receptacle, and routed inside some way. That way, you can use a microwave, hair dryer, etc. without tripping a breaker.

I wondered if I should do that. Thanks!

 

[user 22017]

It is a professional approach. I installed one on my travel trailer during the renovation and all new electrical setup as I wanted to have alternative choices of incoming power to meet a variety of camping situations.

Maki,

You cover all bases. thanks

 

[LargeMarge]

If you go to etrailer.com[,] the site has...

From Etrailer[,] I ordered a...robust as... plan for worse than average... hitch and the ball on it is going to frequently get stressed... transitions from main forest service roads into camp sites across the runoff ditches...stress on an undersized hitch...that extra margin of strength...

.
a)
I eliminated that 'more' weak link of ball-n-socket hitch.
Instead, I use a ring-n-pintle affair.
Because it is 'more' sturdier.
.
Apparently, the nice folks at Fleet Equipment 'more' agree:
q : Is a pintle hitch more safer than a ball?
a : The large lunette ring/drawbar eye makes it more ultra-easy to connect, giving a lone driver a more forgiving option. The pintle hitch offers a more higher safety profile as well, allowing for more secure play over rough and uneven terrain.
.
(An aside:
Hooking a trailer to 'more' anything is rarely 'more' easy.
However, I can personally vouch for 'more' ultra-easy...)
.
.
b)
A ring-n-pintle hitch offers greater ('more' greater...) articulation.
This can be helpful ('more' helpful...) on simple everyday road transitions such as a drive-way into a parking-lot.
.
Illustrative Story One:
* Heading into Baja, one of our caravan chums needed a last meal in Arizona at a McDonald's burger joint.
As they turned onto the entry, their towed Suzuki Samurai popped off the ball.
Dragged by the safety chains (I insist on chains over cables), they would never realize until they did their walk-arounds prior to hitting the road after finishing their fine dining.
Because, as everybody knows, Baja has no food nor restaurants nor grocery stores.
Heading into such adversity requires calories.
.
.
Illustrative Story Two:
* We were up in the forest after firewood.
We loaded the trailer with our cut wood.
I headed out...
... and immediately entered a dip followed by a bump.
.
The trailer hitch popped off the ball on the rear of the Dodge.
The cables separated, and we watched in slow-motion as our load of wood gradually rolled down the hill, settling in the creek.
How slo-mo?
Figure about forty yards/meters/metres in about two minutes, time enough for everybody to get out and watch.
.
I bowed to a smattering of polite applause as it finally came to a stop.
.
We scampered down the hill, unloaded the trailer, winched it back to the road, pounded on the hitch to get it reasonably straight.
We established a fireman line, handing each chunk of wood back up the hill, and loading it back into the trailer...
... laughing our fool heads off the whole time.
.
Did I happen to mention the name of that gulch?
Skunk Hollar.
.
.
c)
At the shop, I torched off much of the pranged trailer hitch.
I welded in a 4'/1.3m length of 2.5" x 2.5" x 1/4" thick-wall square tube, identical to the material of the receiver hitch on the Dodge.
.
I fabricated a ring on a 3'/1m length of two-inch thick-wall square tube.
I drilled both tubes for a pair of hitch-pins, so it sat just like a normal hitch... but removable.
Pull the pin, and it slides right out, just like removing the ball on a normal hitch on the rear of your truck or van.
.
Emphasis on 'normal'.
.
This odd arrangement somewhat reduces the potential for the trailer to grow legs.
Unless the hijackers have a matching ring set-up, moving the trailer requires a tow-truck aka 'wrecker'.
.
On the rear of the Dodge, my pintle is rated at 30,000#.
For a 12k trailer, this should reduce the popping.
.
.
d)
To me, on-line ordering seems impersonal.
This pterodactyl (flying dinosaur) prefers hands-on with local-owned family-operated shops.
.
For pictures of similar contraptions, search for "pintle hitch".

 

[maki2]

.
a)
I eliminated that 'more' weak link of ball-n-socket

You wasted a whole lot of effort replying to my post because I am not the person who started this thread asking about getting a new hitch. I read the first two sentences of your post and knew it was never going to apply to me or my needs. Just replying to you to let you know you need to pay attention when sending replies that you should direct it to the person who asked for advice.

 

[LargeMarge]

...wasted...effort...

.
Story of my life [deep sigh, slowly shakes head in fruitless regret].

 

[bullfrog !]

^^^ a weight distribution set up can be done with a pointle hitch but it is not usually done I don’t believe.

 

[Malamute]

Having everything rated for at least 15amps AC is a good for preventing overheating of the wiring.

Agree on having at least 15 amp, but going to 20 is better yet, and Im not aware of any reason not to when setting it up from zero. 12 ga wire of course is indicated for 20 amp, but its not difficult to work with.

Also agree in principal with the pintle hitch being an improvement for offroad uses, whether related directly to the thread subject or not. Another point is to not ever use a tow ball as a recovery or tow point for stuck vehicles using straps or chains. Not directly related either, just an opportunity to mention it for safety reasons.

 

[maki2]

Overkill is not always a good choice as it can create other consequences such as excess bulk and weight as well as cost. Storage space is often an issue in RV life as is weight and for many so is the cost.

If the electrical cord and connections are rated for the task and the calculations verify that then they should be sufficient. If the calculations indicate 20amp is needed then it should be done with 20 amp. Or 30amp or 50amp if that is indicated. Just do not use less than the calculations say is required.

 

[Malamute]

Overkill is not always a good choice as it can create other consequences such as excess bulk and weight as well as cost. Storage space is often an issue in RV life as is weight and for many so is the cost.

If the electrical cord and connections are rated for the task and the calculations verify that then they should be sufficient. If the calculations indicate 20amp is needed then it should be done with 20 amp. Or 30amp or 50amp if that is indicated. Just do not use less than the calculations say is required.

Agree in principal, though in this case I dont see any down side, the weight/size difference is almost imperceptible, cost is only a few dollars more for the outlet, and allows use of any standard item that used a standard plug (30 amp and larger use different plugs). Someone could come along later and plug something else into it not understanding the amp differences. Most houses use 20 amp circuits/12 ga wire for most outlets, and a cord from a standard outlet will most likely be running 20 amps potential to your cord, which could overload the plug install if not protected by a 15 amp breaker on your outlet. Some houses may not have 20 amps at the outlet, but I cant see any good reason to handicap it (house or camper outlet) from the outset when using 20 amp/12 ga isnt much different cost and workability-wise.

Its similar to wiring houses with 14 ga wire, an electrician asked if i wanted to on one house for a lighting section to save a little money. To me its a false sense of savings, as using standard 12 ga wiring for that allows the circuit to be used later for something the original use didnt anticipate, but going to the standard 12 ga wire opens up the potential use later, and doesnt detract from the initial planned use in any way.

 

[maki2]

Agree in principal, though in this case I dont see any down side, the weight/size difference is almost imperceptible, cost is only a few dollars more for the outlet, and allows use of any standard item that used a standard plug (30 amp and larger use different plugs). Someone could come along later and plug something else into it not understanding the amp differences. Most houses use 20 amp circuits/12 ga wire for most outlets, and a cord from a standard outlet will most likely be running 20 amps potential to your cord, which could overload the plug install if not protected by a 15 amp breaker on your outlet. Some houses may not have 20 amps at the outlet, but I cant see any good reason to handicap it (house or camper outlet) from the outset when using 20 amp/12 ga isnt much different cost and workability-wise.

Its similar to wiring houses with 14 ga wire, an electrician asked if i wanted to on one house for a lighting section to save a little money. To me its a false sense of savings, as using standard 12 ga wiring for that allows the circuit to be used later for something the original use didnt anticipate, but going to the standard 12 ga wire opens up the potential use later, and doesnt detract from the initial planned use in any way.

Houses use 20 amp circuits mostly in the kitchen area, laundry room or garage where there are appliances and power tools. Bedrooms are not typically wired with 20amp circuits. Of course that is not the same standard as was used in earlier years, a 20 amp circuit wired kitchen was rare in a house 40 years ago as there were not as many kitchen appliances in daily use such as microwave ovens.

 

[Happy Camper]

Carla, congrats on your new trailer! I somehow missed this thread until now. That's a good looking trailer and has plenty of room for options.

I would consider going 12v for much of the internal electrical such as lighting and whatnot along with 110v for other items.

I'm sure I missed/forgot a lot of info, but are you going solar with batteries?

Can't help much regarding hitches and things like the others here can, but it seems for the slight price increase stronger is better if there isn't a true negative.

Are you planning on going diesel heater once on the road? Propane?

So much good stuff. I'm very excited for you!

 

[user 22017]

... are you going solar with batteries?

Can't help much regarding hitches and things like the others here can, but it seems for the slight price increase stronger is better if there isn't a true negative.

Are you planning on going diesel heater once on the road? Propane?

Thanks HC I got the portable solar panels today. 220 watts, Dokio brand. Surprised how heavy they are. Haven't received the power station yet. It is 600 watts.

I need to order the hitch or have U-Haul install it. I'll call U-Haul again tomorrow. I was concerned about using U-Haul after the man there recommended a Class 3 hitch, but I think he did that because that is what the company recommends for my truck. On their website you fill out a form and it tells you which hitch is best. It said Class 3. Three is ok, because my truck is old and so am I. I won't be towing anything heavy and won't be rock climbing.

Hoping I won't need heat. I've been sleeping in the camper and the overnight temps have been in the mid-20's. I don't even feel it with my zero degree sleeping bag. The trailer is cold in the morning, though. I have power here, so I turn on space heater in the morning. I'll probably get a propane heater.

Thanks again

 

[Happy Camper]

Nothing against uhaul, but you might be better served going to a place that is used to installing permanent hitches on trucks.

Uhaul wouldn't be my first choice, as most hitches they install are for a temporary need (hauling a trailer they just rented).