Cargo trailer build quality spectrum.

[rebar]

I don't question lengthening the trailer tongue (I've done that myself) but narrowing the axle?

I assume you know that means either a deck-over design, or major modification of the frame. Either way you would lose stability. 

There is a good reason that the narrow, leaf-sprung, single-axle, trailers all have wheel tracks that are wider than the body of the trailer.

Yes I question the stability of my plan also tx2sturgis, and understand it requires major frame modifications and a New axle..  But all I'm doing is converting a 7' wide trailer with outboard wheels and fenders, to one with no fenders, and wheel wells inboard similar to 8' wide trailers. They don't make them like that but I have a trailer builder who is working on a custom trailer quote.
The modification wont make it more difficult to pull, but would definitely be more likely to roll over in a hairy emergency situation. The trailer is only 6 1/2' tall though.

I want to lengthen the tongue to make room for a >200 gallon water tank.   Knowing this would overload the original design, I would add two new full length frame rails inboard of the new wheel location.  The fabrication will take place after I remove the original axle and the trailer is sitting flat on my garage floor.

Bad idea?  I drive a full size 4x4 which is over 7' wide at the mirrors.  Body is 6 1/2' wide .   I simply want to be able to drive narrow forest service roads mainly, and the trailer not be wider than my truck and match my truck wheel track.  I think fenders, along with flat roofs, are a way for trailer manufactures to make them cheaper..  Not safer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfP81q2XqnY

 

[highdesertranger]

hahahs I misread your post I thought you wrote lighten the tongue but you wrote lengthen the tongue, sorry. you know if you can do all those mods you could just build the trailer yourself. around here you can always find trailer manufacturers that will build a trailer to your specs. highdesertranger

 

[John61CT]

Yes, just design your frame from scratch

 

[tx2sturgis]

I dunno, but I think starting with an already flimsy (tin-box) design and trying to 'beef' it up is gonna be more work and trouble than it would be worth in the long run. 

I think it might be easier to buy a landscape/utility flat bed (or gooseneck type) type trailer, a sturdy one, and then build a vertical frame and box on that. Start out with a good foundation! Then lower the axle with blocks or dropping the axle (HDR wont let us say 'flip' the axle!) lol....

Leave the front of the cargo bed open for that tank, then build the enclosure toward the rear. You could configure some type of pop-up top so that the whole thing collapses and has a high ground clearance, a low roof height, and reduced drag for better mileage. You could weld up that frame with 1" square tube, covered with sheet metal or FRP...add a door and a window or two. 

You can buy some nice utility trailers that will support this project. This way, the part you are building is not structural or load-bearing. 

But either way you go, keep us up to date on it.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Something like this:

https://www.happytrailersales.com/d...&vc=flatbed&s=Date Added&d=D&fr=xAllInventory

Yes it's too wide, yes it's too long. But its STRONG.

 From the factory. 

Just for an idea of the type of trailer I'm referring to.

 

[John61CT]

Only problem with that approach is weight

GVWR: 14,000 lbs.
Empty Weight: 3,680 lbs

A very sturdy mobile dwelling unit could be designed with the same dimension footprint, but end up complete with all contents well within that 3000 lbs.

The lower cost of the TV required, lower wear and tear, and of course MPG savings alone, would over ten years' usage be enough to pay an engineer to custom design and make it by hand out of titanium and carbon fibre.

Yes extreme and silly but true to make the point.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Yep that one is heavy, but again, my point is to start with a good foundation.

Rather than find error in that particular trailer, do you agree with the rest of my post?

What about something like this:

https://www.happytrailersales.com/d...5&p=1&s=Date Added&d=D&t=new&fr=xNewInventory

Again, drop the axles, use the nose of the trailer for a water tank. Enclose it all with paneling and insulation.

These things are made pretty tough for carrying 3000 pounds over rough back-country and ranch roads. 

Plus it WILL stand up to being banged around on tree branches and mesquite bushes on the trail.

 

[John61CT]

For someone with a large strong TV already, not planning on pulling it for thousands of miles per year, sure.

For me, no.

The structural requirements for a living space are much lighter than hauling a horse, a car or cubic yards of soil.

I personally would really like to start with very strong axles / suspension / brakes, then get an experienced trailer engineer to spec the lightest possible but strong chassis rails and A-frame designed for the target total load weight, likely using aluminum c-channel or i-beam.

Then DIY a light-framed foamie build on top, maybe even a pop-up.

But that's me. I realize the up-front costs would be greater, but above spelled out the much greater long-term savings from going ultra light.

 

[tx2sturgis]

For someone with a large strong TV already, not planning on pulling it for thousands of miles per year, sure.

For me, no.

Strong TV? huh?

Trailer for you? huh?

Somebody made a left turn in there somewhere.

Ok back to rebar's situation, post #21, which is what I was talking about. 

Strong, tough trailer, capable of hauling 1600 pounds of water, plus food and supplies, and living space, and being pulled thru the briars and the brambles by a 4x4.

 

[John61CT]

Yes, absolutely, much better to start with a platform that actually meets your needs than try to jury-rig the fundamentals, those ideas are for me a non-starter.

My (bigger picture POV) point was that with very specific needs, it can be worth going custom from the ground up, if you can afford the up-front higher cost.

 

[rebar]

Ok back to rebar's situation, post #21, which is what I was talking about. 

Strong, tough trailer, capable of hauling 1600 pounds of water, plus food and supplies, and living space, and being pulled thru the briars and the brambles by a 4x4.

Right on tx2sturgis..  Those are some of my requirements, but I hope I didn't hijack this thread..  Hopefully this thread still remains a think tank about build quality, or the lack there of.

So the lack there of requires you to step up and ask/demand for specific's. I'd probably would want to be present during the entire build.  lol.   I'm talking to a character on ebay after I made a comment about his "Jeep Trailer"  He wants to build me exactly what I want, but I'm skeptical. We will see.

Even though I could really use that deckover you suggested for my new acreage and then put a removable enclosure on it when camping in colorado.. It's way to Wide for forest service roads. I was so serious about using a deckover, I started a thread over on pirate4x4.. Pretty rough crowd over there..  But allot of experience.

Even though I was a tinner for 15 years,  I don't think I'm up for building a trailer from scratch nor do I have all the tools..  The skinning would be the hardest part, but maybe I'm not aware of whats available for DIY trailer builders.  I figure I can buy the 7x12 H&H in my picture for 2500..  Another 1000 for a new 5K axle.  750 for a pair of 16" wheels and maybe another 2000 for the water tank and steel.  My time is free.

On the other hand..  If rjtrailersinc on ebay can build me the same for maybe 8k?  Im in..  But its not happening..  His base "jeep tailer" is already 7K.

 

[Charly]

I am interested in more thoughts on trailer quality.

Thoughts on Diamond Cargo

Rock Solid

Covered Wagon

Cynergy

Right on tx2sturgis..  Those are some of my requirements, but I hope I didn't hijack this thread..  Hopefully this thread still remains a think tank about build quality, or the lack there of.

So the lack there of requires you to step up and ask/demand for specific's. I'd probably would want to be present during the entire build.  lol.   I'm talking to a character on ebay after I made a comment about his "Jeep Trailer"  He wants to build me exactly what I want, but I'm skeptical. We will see.

Even though I could really use that deckover you suggested for my new acreage and then put a removable enclosure on it when camping in colorado.. It's way to Wide for forest service roads. I was so serious about using a deckover, I started a thread over on pirate4x4.. Pretty rough crowd over there..  But allot of experience.

Even though I was a tinner for 15 years,  I don't think I'm up for building a trailer from scratch nor do I have all the tools..  The skinning would be the hardest part, but maybe I'm not aware of whats available for DIY trailer builders.  I figure I can buy the 7x12 H&H in my picture for 2500..  Another 1000 for a new 5K axle.  750 for a pair of 16" wheels and maybe another 2000 for the water tank and steel.  My time is free.

On the other hand..  If rjtrailersinc on ebay can build me the same for maybe 8k?  Im in..  But its not happening..  His base "jeep tailer" is already 7K.

rebar,

I am also considering a narrowed axle on a 6 x 12 or a 7 x 12. Diamond Cargo (on plainoltrailers.com) lists a narrowed axle option on the 7" wide trailers.

 

[John61CT]

> The skinning would be the hardest part, but maybe I'm not aware of whats available for DIY trailer builders.

I'll do your shell if you build my chassis

Here's a good search string for super-cheap and pretty easy ideas:

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:tnttt.com+pmf+OR+foamie+OR+skin+OR+the-mix

 

[TrailBulder]

Been having a heck of a time getting American Cargo Group (they own Wells Cargo and Haulmark) to stand behind their trailer.
My 2020 6×12 has been driven only ~1300 miles, and has been sitting in my driveway rusting further as I wait for American Cargo Group to stand behind their product. Pictures show the condition after only 8 days.

I contacted the dealer about warranty, they passed me to the manufacturer. Wells Cargo has offered to have Por-15 painted over the currently rusted areas, but the dealer to which they referred me declined to do the work because they felt it was an insufficient repair and did not want to be liable for future problems. Alternatively, ACG said I could deliver/ship (at my “out-of-pocket” cost) it back to the factory in Ogden UT for them to do it.

It has been almost a week since the dealer informed ACG that they would not do the repair for the reasons posted above. I’ve still not heard from ACG. Crickets.

Let’s hope they do the right thing. Keep ya posted.

 

[highdesertranger]

I would just clean it up and rattle can it. cargo trailer aren't known for their antirust measures.

What I would be concerned about is the unprotected OSB flooring. that will give out long before that rust causes an issue. I never would have taken possession of that trailer. for that matter I never would have bought a trailer with OSB on it anywhere.

highdesertranger

 

[maki2]

> The skinning would be the hardest part, but maybe I'm not aware of whats available for DIY trailer builders.

A lot of the trailer companies are now using 3M VHB tape for the skinning. You would need a partner to help with the skinning job to get the panels perfectly aligned before running a J-rolling up and down the outside of the skin where it lays against the framing.