Can I put a dryer exhaust vent in the back of fiberglass high top?

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bensfg

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I just got a 97 Dodge B2500 high top conversion van with the fiberglass top. Looking for a way to put ventilation in the roof but I don't want to cut a hole in the top. Any reason I shouldn't put a standard 4" dryer vent through the back of the fiberglass?
 
well you can't seal it and in the back it will suck exhaust in. there's 2 reasons. highdesertranger
 
If it was me, I think I'd try to put an opening window in each side. Many of the high tops had these...
 
Those dryer vents are flimsy things that won't seal well or hold up to sun etc. I suggest cutting a 14" square hole in the roof and installing a Fantastic Fan. Wouldn't be without one. Short of that, if you just want a vent on the side, use search for louvered marine vents and find one you like. If you want more info on that I can dig up links and show you how I used those.
 
Hi, thanks for the tips.

I do have 3 small sliding screen windows but there is nothing to keep rain from getting in and they are down low. Also the rear door windows both pop open a bit from the bottom. I would much prefer a fan up high where the heat is. I looked at the fantastic fan but I have fancy wood trim and lighting in the center so a ceiling fan would be a lot of modification. I also worry about water leaks. I think a vent on the back pointing down would be a lot easier to keep water out of.

 I took out a rear speaker and I can see raw fiberglass behind it. That is where I would like to put a vent fan.

The exhaust is under the car and pointed left. I want to put the vent on the top right. I don't see how this could be a problem especially since the rear door windows open. They are much closer to the exhaust.

I just ordered a simple marine louvered vent on ebay $4.50 with shipping. Looks like I could fit 2 square computer fans side by side and I could turn one or both on for more air flow.

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Should not be a problem.   I have read of it being done.  "Weather"?  They last pretty well on the side of houses.  That shouldn't be an issue.  They are made for constant outdoor exposure.  I have been favoring this approach myself, for my van's mid top.  Helps with keeping the roof free for solar panels too.
 
:(   As the vehicle goes down the road, it stirs up the "air" which contain the exhaust fumes.  That is why there is a little sticker on both back windows telling you to NOT OPEN THEM WHILE DRIVING!  :dodgy:

I have no rain get in anywhere around my FF.  That is why they install them in high end RV's.  

If you insist on going with that marine vent, put it on the side.  Not the back.
 
For the plan you have in mind that marine vent is gonna be just about your best option. Back caulk it when you install it (put a bead of caulking on the back of the vent before it goes on) and face caulk it after you install it (put a bead of caulking where the outside edge meets the high top after the vent is on). Both beads of caulking should go on three sides - top, left, and right. Leave the caulking off the bottom in case any water gets in there it can drain out the bottom. Also put some calking in the screw holes as the screws go in and let the caulk mush up around the screw heads when they tighten down.

The thing with exhaust in the back is due to the fact that the vehicle leaves a vacuum of displaced air behind it as it goes down the road. As said, those windows aren't supposed to be open while driving either. For a very real proof of this, I once had a pinhole leak in a rear differential. Driving down the road, the back of my SUV (at the time) would get 100% coated in a film of oil from top to bottom from the air coming around to fill that vacuum and picking up the oil droplets with it. Took me a while to realize what was going on. I don't think you're going to get killed by exhaust fumes from that vent way up there but it's something to be aware of. Personally I would be more worried about driving in the rain and having rainwater thrown up in there from that same low pressure cycle.

I have louvered vents on the side of my high top and they're not a problem there.

LeeRevell said:
Should not be a problem. I have read of it being done. "Weather"? They last pretty well on the side of houses. That shouldn't be an issue. They are made for constant outdoor exposure. I have been favoring this approach myself, for my van's mid top. Helps with keeping the roof free for solar panels too.

They also suck. Can't tell you how many times I've touched one and had it disintegrate under my finger from UV exposure on the plastic. The little one-way doors are a joke, any kind of bugs and critters can get in there. People tend to put them on the side of the house and assume they're working right when usually they're not. I definitely wouldn't use one in any kind of mobile environment.
 
I think TMG51 is making a good point. I wanted to put a vent in the rear at the speaker location too because it looks a lot easier than cutting through all of that wood trim, fabric, etc. of the top of a conversion van. But if exhaust comes in = not fun. I guess one quick way to test this out is to leave one of the rear window open while parking and driving to see if your CO detector goes off.
 
those RV range hoods don't seal well either. I would put CO at the top of the list. if a little water gets in it' an inconvenience, if CO gets in it's your life. it doesn't matter that your tail pipe is on the side you will still suck CO into your van. if you absolutely have to mount a vent in the back use a marine deck plate and only open it when not on the road. btw they make fans for the deck plates. highdesertranger
 
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