Blue Sea ML-ACR 500 AMP Install questions

[ByeBye]

1999 reg cab F450 4x4, dual under hood batteries, w/ 1988 Bigfoot truck camper on aluminum flatbed w/ 2 T-105 batteries and will soon be adding two more, 4 total.

I've ordered the ACR based on recommendations from here. I have some noob questions:

1. I plan on installing the unit itself under the hood or behind backseat depending whether to run cables to house bank thru the firewall or under the truck. Pro/con or preferences for either?
2. I'm running a 7.3 diesel, any special considerations w/ this unit and glow plug operation?
3. One of the selling points is to be able to link start/house bank for emergency starting. I have 2/0 connecting my dual batteries under the hood. Should I also use 2/0 to link house bank to start bank?
4. If you were me what important points would you NOT want to overlook?

I know I'll have lots of other questions and thanks in advance for the help. This site has been a Godsend for an old loner like me.

 

[John61CT]

If you can mount close to Starter, yes fat cabling, only the one fat run to the back is needed, will save a lot of money and hassle.

Wiring paths should be short as possible, and protected.

The engine & glow plugs are irrelevant.

Obviously download Blue Sea's docs & read closely.

Best IMO to post to cruisersforum.com or expeditionportal.com for more / better answers to more technical questions.

Some relevant links
http://roadtreklife.blogspot.com/2015/12/battery-isolator-upgrade-to-blue-sea-ml.html

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...them-multiple-batteries-thread.295653/page-28

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...d-blue-sea-ml-acr-and-odyssey-pc1200s.166441/

 

[AnFear]

I use a similar unit. I installed it under the hood in the place where the battery combiner was (Roadtrek) because the wires were already there. This is on the outside firewall. Given a choice I'd put it there anyway. I just feel better keeping high amp load wires outside of my living area when possible.
I have no idea how it would effect a glow plug. I can't think of any reason it would be a problem but I could say the same thing about lots of things I don't know about You could probably ask Blue Seal, they have good customer service.
It's a good idea to keep wire sizes the same.
I would spring for the remote switch if you haven't already. I like the control, for instance if I've just spent a few days hooked up to shore power I leave the battery's disconnected on my next long trip. I also leave them disconnected during city/short trips. Just to lessen the load on the engine, alternator and give the battery's a rest. Probably not making a big difference but the switch is right on my dash. I wouldn't do it if I had to pop the hood

 

[Weight]

If you are going to require emergency starting, yes you need 2/0. Depending on how long the cables between the starter and house, you may need larger than 2/0. For a starter circuit, 3% voltage drop should be fine. What do you think, John61ct?
The cable could be better protected if not routed under the vehicle. And, yes if the chassis negative return is sound, you may not need a separate negative cable. But I think it would be better to have one at least to the engine block.
Fuses are required on the house bank positive even on a starter circuit.

 

[John61CT]

Depending on how long the cables between the starter and house, you may need larger than 2/0.

Blue Sea Circuit Wizard app will give a definitive answer for each given scenario

Keeping the distance short for cranking is best, 3% may be fine for cranking but you are losing power.

If too fat / expensive wire is required, consider keeping a pocket jumpstarter charged, rather than relying on the ACR feature.

Definitely do not rely on chassis return except in temporary exigencies.

 

[ByeBye]

According to the Wizard app 2/0 should work, if I applied it right. I figured 15 ft @ 300 amps. It'll be less than 15ft. Going to wait till the unit gets here to determine where to mount. Under the hood is pretty cluttered but there's maybe a spot on the driver side firewall. If not there I'm going to look at mounting it behind the seat and protect it.

I mentioned the glow plugs because of my unfamiliarity w/ how quickly the ACR will start to charge house bank. Iirc, glow plugs don't necessarily stop firing when it starts and draw lots of current, 192 amps.

A large part of the reason I selected this unit is for the emergency start capacity, 500 amps if wired correctly, and having a big diesel. Blue Sea also mentions not fusing cabling to ACR if emergency connection is going to be used.

 

[John61CT]

Note 15ft away means 30ft round-trip.

Use a string to measure the actual path, and round up.

 

[John61CT]

Note the ACR does not "charge" anything, it's just an open / close switch.

I think delay is 15-30sec.

 

[ByeBye]

"Note 15ft away means 30ft round-trip."

You're referring to how much cable is needed or calculating wire size? I was referring to calculating wire size via Blue Sea Wizard.

Glow plugs can cycle for up to 120 sec depending on different variables. I doubt that it'll be an issue w/ as many of these around as there are but I'll probably present that question on a Powerstroke site..

 

[John61CT]

"Note 15ft away means 30ft round-trip."

You're referring to how much cable is needed or calculating wire size? I was referring to calculating wire size via Blue Sea Wizard.

Yes, you need to plug in the doubled, RT distance, pos+neg

 

[John61CT]

Glow plugs can cycle for up to 120 sec depending on different variables.

I have no idea what you think the issue with these would be.

Are you afraid they might get damaged by the activity of the ACR or something?

AFAICT there should be no interaction or effect in either direction.

 

[ByeBye]

Not afraid of anything, asking questions that come to mind based on info I've acquired. Some are more relevant than others, <shrug>
Had the thought of alternator switching to charging both banks while 200 amps of glow plugs are cycling on and off and wanted to ask if anyone had experienced/heard of a problem. Trying to be proactive.

I've decided to go w/ 2/0 at this point.

 

[ByeBye]

Oh, and thanks everyone for the input and links, especially you, John. I appreciate it.

 

[highdesertranger]

those pocket jump packs don't work on 7.3 diesels. or should I say not recommended to use on a 7.3. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

Maybe use two, one on each battery. Dunno

 

[John61CT]

Try one of these

https://www.koldban.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=800065

Maybe:
Antigravity Micro Start XP-10
POD (Power On Demand) X5 Pro 

 ?

Mod edit, the above link is for a high power portable jump pack

 

[highdesertranger]

that's hardly a "pocket jumpstarter". highdesertranger

 

[Weight]

If you have 15 feet of cable connected to a house bank with no fuse you are asking for a fire.

 

[ByeBye]

I'll fuse the cables to the appropriate size and if I need an emergency start I can bypass the fuses if necessary for a short duration.
Cable prices are a killer.

 

[John61CT]

Cable prices are a killer.

Imagine powering high-current loads over 120' runs.

Slower charging a dedicated bank with a DCDC quickly makes more sense.