Blacking out Conversion Van windows easy while insulating them

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My cargo van came with plain white perforated vinyl on the back windows. If you're not familiar with the stuff, if you ever see vehicles completely wrapped in graphics, the part that's over the side and back windows is on perforated vinyl. In daylight it means you can see out but it's almost impossible to see in.

So if you have a passenger van, and you don't want to be obvious that you've converted it for van dwelling, you could have perforated vinyl put on your side and back windows.

Of course, after dark, people outside could see in if you have any lights on, so you'd need something opaque to cover the windows, but simple cardboard could do the trick.

Or limo tinting would pretty much accomplish the same thing.
 
Thank you for a great thread! I have a question on the subject for those of you who have spray painted or attached black cloth to Reflectix. Do you find that the black paint or fabric absorbs light/heat? Or is the difference negligible? Given that the Reflectix can no longer work as intended by reflecting the suns rays, I was wondering if it is worth the effort to blacken one side.
 
When I did the fabric/reflectix thing it did get hot in the sun but mostly just on the glass - it only felt a little warm to the touch on the other side. Whether it's worth it depends on whether you need stealth. Bare reflectix screams out for attention, which is fine if you're legally boondocking somewhere, not ideal if you are trying to sleep in a residential area.

I could never quite get it right with the stuff - I always had at least some light leaking around the edges, glue on the velcro would come loose, and on close inspection it looked like reflectix with fabric glued to it. If you already have dark tinted windows that last part might not be a problem. In a fit of frustration one day I bought a small can of black paint and just painted all the back windows black with a brush. I put regular insulation on top of that. I'm very happy with the setup and if I ever want to change to something else I can scrape off the paint. Plasti-dip would probably work even better.
 
Reducto said:
In a fit of frustration one day I bought a small can of black paint and just painted all the back windows black with a brush.

A couple of things have occurred to me here . . .

Rather than use a brush, I think you could mask around the glass and put several thin coats of spry paint on it.

Maybe it's just me - OK, it probably IS just me - but windows painted black just SCREAMS "I'm Trying To hide Something!"

If you picked a color that complimented or contrasted with your vehicle's color, it would look more like an enthusiast trying to customize his/her vehicle.

Before you painted, you could put some stickers like THESE on the glass, and then paint over them. There are a lot of other possibilities from other companies besides this one, I only use it as an example.

Or you could get some masking tape and different bright paints and do your own version of a Piet Mondrian painting. (I have NO idea why stuff like this is considered art, but it apparently is worth a LOT of money to collectors).

As far as insulation, once you've painted the glass, you could put a couple of this strips of wood on the top and bottom (to create a stand-off space) and then attach reflectix to it with Velcro.

Anyway, just a couple of random thoughts from a guy with too much time on his hands.:)

Regards
John
 
The black just looks like limo tint from the outside. I've been pulled over a couple of times since then and the only comment I got from an officer was "You have pretty dark window tint, is there anyone else in the car with you?" and no further comment after I said no.

I'm not saying my solution was ideal, just putting it out there as something that works.

Using a brush worked fine, it just took a bunch of coats to finish. Glass doesn't take paint very well.
 
bindi&us said:
We don't have any problem with Refletix staying in place without tape. Tho I had cut them carefully and they fit snug, they seemed to sorta shrink a tiny bit after being in place a few days. When I got around to cutting some for other windows I made sure they were a tad big and those work better.
I tried REFLECTIX for window blackout. First with no corners cut, then with corners cut, then slightly larger than window, then in an attempt to stop light leaking in on the edges (this is with the reflectix pressed into the windows!) added frills of black cloth duct tape. When I saw it looked obvious from outside, spray painted the outside part black. After a month the REFLECTIX shrunk to the point it was falling out of the window, so I added more black cloth duct tape frills. This kept them in for another month, same thing happened.

If anybody wants REFLECTIX window panels for just the cost to ship them to you, PM me. I have six or so. They fit into the back door windows of DODGE vans, they are slightly larger than the stock glass dimensions (the border of glass and rubber frame). Prority goes to those who pay the postage first. Or if you're in the SF Bay Area or transienting you can pick them up in South San Jose. I have other things too, need to start a thread for this kind of exchange, "Cheap RV Living freecycle (reciever pays postage)".

For blacking out the windows on the side and back doors, I am digging the HFT anti-fatigue mats. For the camper-style side windows I am thinking of same or 1/2" or thinner rigid foam block INSULFOAM with foil side in, painting the side facing the window with one coat of black PLASTI-DIP spray paint.
My goal is to have the back of the van pitch black while it's bright and sunny outside.

The 2 big (48"X42") windshield pieces are held in place with carbon fiber rods (like used on kites) that are cut just long enough to cause a slight bow.

What were the carbon fiber rods you used? Where did you acquire them?
 
blacking them out tells thieves and cops "I LIVE here". So I just tint them with the film, as dark as allowed in a given state. When I where I park, I dont show a light and before I go to one of my sleeping spots, I get everything ready. So when I arrive, I'm in bed in a very few seconds. I do this about 10 pm and I'm gone at 7 pm. Been at it for 2 years now, no real problems. I've had a few homeowners notice, and ask me to move on. I quickly did so. I use a mini-van, not a cargo van. the latter attract too much notice
 
GotSmart said:
I cut a piece of 1/8 inch wood veneer black, and screwed it to the inside frame of the window.  Since the windows were already tinted, it made them invisible. I am thinking of spray painting the plastic window sills black befor I build the cabinets.  I more than likely will leave them alone, as a possible sale down the road that will drop the value. In sunlight the windows are black and you walk right past them.

One side is the wood, and the other side is flat black spray paint.  I will do this to both back windows, and the side windows I will custom cut wood and insulation to fit when I am parked.  I need to be able to see to drive.

What do you have on the walls in the picture with the wood paneling? Was that stock in the van or did you put it in?
 
ryguy said:
What do you have on the walls in the picture with the wood paneling? Was that stock in the van or did you put it in?

That is the stock cloth covering in the conversion van.  It is basically a wood panel, with a velvet type cloth over it.
 
So i have a G20 conversion van. I took 3 Foam Camping pads and cut them a bit oversized ,so they stuff tight in the window  openings .2 inch think with a vinyl cover makes sparay painting black with fabric spray paint the perfect solution for me. keeps it warm in the winter. found 3 at a garage sale for 2.00 each
 
nice Chevyvanrickster. go over to the new comer's corner and introduce yourself and we will give you the official welcome. in the mean time welcome. highdesertranger
 
My plan for stealth white cargo van build:
White Plastic Dip or white Vinyl on outside of glass.
Polysi insulation panel with side against glass painted matte black.
Finish off interior with T&G Knotty pine.
Will be light tight. Would prefer a van with no glass, but they seem hard to find!
 
One consiideration of my build was weight.  T & G pine weighs 3/4 lb per linear foot.  A standard van is 10 ft long. That is about 130 linear feet.  About 100 lbs roughly.  That is 10% of load capacity on a 1/2 ton van.
 
GotSmart said:
One consiideration of my build was weight.  T & G pine weighs 3/4 lb per linear foot.  A standard van is 10 ft long. That is about 130 linear feet.  About 100 lbs roughly.  That is 10% of load capacity on a 1/2 ton van.

Which is why I will only consider a one ton van for conversion. Transit 250 or Chevy Express 2500 is what I'm going to build.
 
chevy express 2500 is a 3/4 ton van not a 1 ton a 1 ton would be a 3500. highdesertranger
 
GotSmart said:
One consiideration of my build was weight.  T & G pine weighs 3/4 lb per linear foot.  A standard van is 10 ft long. That is about 130 linear feet.  About 100 lbs roughly.  That is 10% of load capacity on a 1/2 ton van.
Oh sure, let's throw mathematics and logic into the equation.  Spoil Sport. :p
PS, agreeing with the last post, a 250 or 2500 indicates 3/4 ton.
 
That is why I went with wood paneling.  The same look, easier instalation, 1/2 the weight.  I have to be logical.  Otherwise I would have 2,000 lbs of nick nacks alone.  :blush:

This is what I did.  I am not telling you to do the same.  It is how I solved my problem.  You build what you like.   :D

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-Rebuild-91-Dodge-short-van
 

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