Best insulation for your van

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skyl4rk said:
https://havelockwool.com/van-insulation-products/

My next build will be wool insulation.

At the moment, my strategy would be to mount furring strips, then screw panels to the furring strips while stuffing the gap between the panel and van body with wool.  I haven't done a lot of research on it though.

A friend of mine built his Ford Transit (the larger type Transit) with wool insulation. He said he needed slightly more than one bale which cost about $300.
That is the company product I was looking at.
 
I like the idea of the "wool" that would be easier to stuff into crevices, and voids than rigid polyiso. I need insulation for temperature concerns, but maybe a bigger reason is for sound control...I don't generally want to hear other people, traffic noise, or barking dogs when i'm trying to sleep.
 
New member here. I can't believe there is an on going debate on this subject. Mold, Moisture, R values, sound etc.
I would think that "best practices" on this subject would be figured out a long time ago.

Guess not.
 
The one thing reflictix will do for you is eliminate cold spots where the metal ribs come close to your wall finish on the inside. So far great performance in some pretty miserable conditions. -crofter
 
Attributes like mold resistance & NON TOXIC would be the main priorities i would look for....R-value is one thing...BUT i wouldn't want to be breathing the TOXIC fumes associated with some chemical adhesives, etc....
 
wfopete said:
New member here.  I can't believe there is an on going debate on this subject.  Mold, Moisture, R values, sound etc.
I would think that "best practices" on this subject would be figured out a long time ago.

Guess not.

Best practices depends entirely on what one is looking to achieve in insulation.

If you're planning on following the sun then minimal insulation is all that's needed.

If you intent to spent the winter in a cold clime snowboarding then it's an entirely different need than sun followers.

If you spend most of your year in humid environments then mold needs to be considered, If you live in the desert, mold is extremely unlikely.

If you  have sensitivities to certain products then that must be taken in to consideration.

As you can see, it's not a case of one size fits all!!
 
I did the following

Thinsulate SM-600L everywhere (except the floor), stuffed the ribs, glued it to the walls and ceilings. Covered pretty much everything flat and stuffed it behind all the ribs. On the top part of the walls and ceilings I used 3/4 polyisocyanurate sheets. On the floor and lower wall I used 1/2 inch XPS sheets.

I am very warm and have no condensation issues. (but I also do not use a combustion heater in the interior of my vehicle). I am also quite cool in the summer.

I probably went overkill, but it reduces energy use and keeps me comfortable, so it is working.
 
reflextix is pretty much useless in a van build, the only time is has an r value of any sort is with an airgap which when its attached to the metal skin of your van it doesnt have, the heat or cold is transferred right through it. It has 0 business being in a van, just like pink fiberglass house insulation.
 
I just took all the old reflectix out of my van.  I was only using it for covering the windows and it did a pretty good job of keeping the heat in/out.  I replaced all my reflectix with US Energy Products Supershield.  This is somewhat similar to reflectix in that is is shiney on both sides but has a foam core instead of air bubbles and is sturdier.  Their website "claims" an R value of 15+ for this ~ 1/4" stuff.

What got me looking for a replacement is I have a large (~18"x60") back window where the bed is.  The reflectix I had back there shrunk about 1 1/2" in width this last year and a half in the Texas sun.  I guess if it was taped, it couldn't shrink.  Anyway, my unscientific hand test on the new stuff feels the same temperature inside the van where the reflectix would be hotter than inside with the sun shining on that side of the van.  It was much easier for me to cut and shape with a razor knife and straight edge too.  It is not summer here yet though.

If I were up to it, (and I am not), I would love to pull all my walls and ceiling and put this stuff in.

Just my opinion.
 
Just throwing my two cents in regarding R-values.
I'm working in the architecture/construction world, so R-values are what I'm dealing with in every project.
Some R-values mentioned here are way too high.
XPS insulation comes typically with R-5 per inch. You may be lucky to get R-6 out of it.
I looked up the product that's mentioned in the post above, US Energy Products Supershield. I couldn't find the R-value on their website (anyone has a link where it says R-15?), but someone answered the question on Amazon saying that 1/4" is likely R-5 or less. An I wholeheartedly agree with that. It has MAX. R-5. I would think R-3 sounds more accurate.
 
Since it has been forever (it seems like anyways) since I took math; my calculations were off. I went in search at their website that showed a formula for figuring out what the R value was IIRC. There was a a formula and pointed towards "ASTM E84 test & ASTM E2599" being passed. I never saw a stated R value but when I just now went there, they are claiming R-8 which is far and above reflectix. Every time I go to the van and the sun is shining, I am still amazed how much cooler to the touch it is than the reflectix I used to have in there. We have already had a number of 90 degree sunshiny days here near Houston.

Here is a link to what I bought that now states an R-8 value: https://www.usenergyproducts.com/collections/reflective-sealer-foam-core-1

All I can really say is that to me for very little more money than Reflectix, this stuff works much better and is sturdier given the foam core.
 
Thanks for sharing the link.
You're right it states R-8.
I clicked on the first product:
https://www.usenergyproducts.com/pr...ctive-insulation-6-x-25-foam-not-cheap-bubble
and in the description it says that "...it adds R-5" to tank performance".
A product has a fix R-value and doesn't change it's properties. I'm skeptical about a higher than R-5 value, because it's literally 1/4". But I believe that this product may perform higher than some other products.
 
is it R-8 or R-5 per what? is that R-8 or 5 for a 1/4 inch or are they wrapping it multiple times. they don't say, which I find suspect I doubt it is R-8. I have no doubt it performs better than reflexit, that is not hard at all. highdesertranger
 
I took it as R-8 (R-5 in pipe wrap use) in the 1/4 inch thickness they specified. I know when I go to the buy insulation in a store, it is sold at an R value based on the thickness of the item being sold unless I am wrong on that also. Could be, I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer anymore.
 
I'm stripping out my step van right now. I'll be using 1" closed cell rigid board insulation for the floor and 2" of closed cell spray foam on the walls and ceiling. 3/4" wood nailer for attaching wall and ceiling materials and a thermal break.
This is the same strategy I have used on most of the buildings I have designed. There are some surfaces in the cab that I can't insulate, so they will not get covered, they will sweat but everything is aluminum and it will dry.
I don't like holes in my roof either if they can be avoided so my cooking exhaust out the back wall will double as my whole van exhaust. I'm using a high efficiency 24v fan on speed control, on high for cooking and low for general exhaust. Fresh air in from the front air scoop and out the back on low speed anytime I'm in the van.
A friend of mine is a mechanical Engineer and he ran the heating loads for my (11' box) van and the conclusion was that the smallest diesel heater could easily do the job. Just as a reference for anyone else considering one of those.
 
B and C is right, the website makes it look like that it is R-5 or R-8 for 1/4". That is why I'm so skeptical.

General rule is that the R-value given, represents one inch thickness of the material.
 
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