battery choice

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bardo said:
Is it worth paying $60 for the duracell ultra?

Are both available locally so you can pick them up instead of paying shipping?  (Assuming they even ship these things.)

When I went to their site they gave me a 10% off code: CDP10047.  It says it only works if you buy online and pickup in store.  Maybe it'll work for you.

215ah @ $110 = $0.51 / amp-hour
235ah @ $140 = $0.59 / amp-hour

From a purely monetary standpoint, if you don't require the extra amp-hours, the cheaper batteries are not only cheaper overall but also cheaper per amp-hour.
 
the cheap ones are 4lb lighter though. i.e. less lead, thinner plates

AH insignificant to me
 
bardo said:
the cheap ones are 4lb lighter though. i.e. less lead, thinner plates

AH insignificant to me

Actually, the cheaper ones are 7.5 pounds lighter each (60.5 vs 68), and they're both exactly the same size dimensions (so it couldn't be a water-volume difference accounting for the weight).

If these were the only two batteries to choose from, I'd go with the heavier, higher amp-hour one.
 
Oh wow youre right. Must have been the $115 ones with the 4lb difference.
 
Also check Sam's Club if you have one nearby, can get down to ~$85
 
This is right where I am at. Batteries plus seems to be the only place local to get golf carts. So, are these the correct batteries for me to get (2) for my 100watt solar and a continental use solenoid ?


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bardo said:
Oh wow youre right. Must have been the $115 ones with the 4lb difference.


So, are you saying to go with the $99 ones?


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In the end any flooded Duracell (Deka) GC will be great value.

If the price per AH gets up to say within 20% of Trojan T-105 (or Crown or US Battery or Superior) then jump, they'd be great too.

A variant labelled RE even better, but usually a lot pricier.
 
Interesting that Batteries plus is your only local source, it never hurts to stop by a local golf course and talk to a mechanic or the person in charge of cart repairs. they just might be willing to order for you. Who knows they may get a better price with the volume they go through.
 
Also if near a boating center.

Call each manufacturer mentioned, ask for a list of their local authorized dealers.

Forklift places, industrial cleaning, solar installers.

Given crazy delivery costs, it can be (with a larger bank) worth driving a couple hours to pick an order up.
 
bardo said:
got a batteries plus a few miles away


Just picked up my two Duracells that you guys were talking about. They are huge!!! I don't know what I was thinking. Lol. Also picked up a tester. They said to check them every 3 months. Walked out the door for about $250 with Washington sales tax. Thank you all for your research, input and expertise. Now to find a place for them.


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Imagine needing eight of them.

You can see why some consider going LFP, even at 5x the price, a fraction of the size and weight.
 
Maggie Flinn said:
Just picked up my two Duracells that you guys were talking about.  They are huge!!!  I don't know what I was thinking. Lol. Also picked up a tester. They said to check them every 3 months. Walked out the door for about $250 with Washington sales tax. Thank you all for your research, input and expertise. Now to find a place for them.


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the ultra or the standard?
 
So, should I have 200 watts of solar. I have the 100 watt Renogy kit coming from Amazon. Do I want 30 amp fuses, do I want parallel or series if I add another 100 watt. Also, do I go positive to negative with the batteries. I am so confused watching set up videos. I see there is an adapter but see one set up they didn't use it. Please. Let me know. I am new to the forum so please let me know if I'm in over my head.


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The two six volt GC batteries will have one's positive connected with the others negative. Use a large cable with quality lugs. The cable ends. Then the two remaining terminals will give you 12 volts dc. I have used 2/0 (00) marine cable from http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly?size=48
If you are in California; https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/custom-battery-cables/custom-00-gauge-marine-battery-cable.html
You should have a catastrophic fuse on the 12 volt positive battery terminal. I have used these with a 300 amp fuse. https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/fuses/blue-sea-mrbf-fuse-block.html Your system may not need as large a fuse. My inverter has 2/0 cables and can draw 200+ amps.
You then need smaller fuses to power the various devices powered by your battery.
 
Weight said:
The two six volt GC batteries will have one's positive connected with the others negative. Use a large cable with quality lugs. The cable ends. Then the two remaining terminals will give you 12 volts dc. I have used 2/0 (00) marine cable from http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly?size=48
If you are in California; https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/custom-battery-cables/custom-00-gauge-marine-battery-cable.html
You should have a catastrophic fuse on the 12 volt positive battery terminal. I have used these with a 300 amp fuse. https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/fuses/blue-sea-mrbf-fuse-block.html Your system may not need as large a fuse. My inverter has 2/0 cables and can draw 200+ amps.
You then need smaller fuses to power the various devices powered by your battery.


So hook up one positive to one negative on the batteries and then I will have the 12 volts. I get it. And do the same with the 2 100 watt panel. One positive to one negative ? Correct? I have a 30 amp renogy fuse coming to go between the panels and the charge controller. I just need to figure out what size of fuse to use between the charge controller and the battery. Do you know how I can find that out? Thank you


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I referenced the battery bank. The solar panels are a different animal. You do not need a fuse between the panels and controller if the wires are large enough. Renogy panels have a 10 awg. You need a fuse at the battery positive to protect the wire to/from the controller. What size controller? What is distance between controller and battery?
 
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