Battery And Electric Help Please - Cargo Build

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Hi.  I'm at a point I need to pick out, not yet purchase but I need to know brand/model and size batteries for my cargo trailer build.  Eventually we will add between 600 and 1200 solar, not sure yet what weight our setup will support so I don't yet know that part and will deal with it in the future.  After watching some videos in the past I made a note to get 3 AGMs and we want to get them all at the same time.  So I need to plan where to put them and build the container for them in the trailer very soon.

(1)- can you recommend a few brands/amp hr, group # that would be good choices?

(2) I am at the point of putting in the insulation.  I guess I would be cutting into the wood walls and insulation in order to add outlet boxes and such?  I have a 7 x 16 and want a grounded outlet in the kitchen, an outlet by the refrigerator on its own 30 amp breaker (is that right?), 1 or 2 by the bed as well as 2 charging stations by the bed, one by the ramp door, and one on the TV wall.  Any links available to the type of outlet to buy?  


Oh heck - anyone have some links that will tell me what to buy and how to mount it?  (into the wall, outside of the wall?)  Also need the plug for bringing shore power into the trailer.

I have been watching videos and searching for links and even bought a book on electrical but so far I am not prepared for my shopping cart experience.

 

[John61CT]

Why do you think you need AGM?

The cost a lot more for decent quality, like at least double per AH per year, harder to charge properly, unlikely to last anywhere near as long.

If you do have a good reason, then Lifeline and Odyssey are the best, Northstar is good, that's about it for most people.

Better to use 2-6V units in serial, avoid paralleling more than 2 strings.

 

[Rabbit]

For batteries, this price is _very_ hard to beat.

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...rod3590228.ip?xid=plp3990117-auto:product:1:1

For bringing power in, try this on for size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far it's working well for me. Can't help much with the rest of your questions-- I paid someone to do a lot of the work, because I'm not handy. (Though I put in the plug and batteries myself, at least.)

 

[DannyB1954]

I installed 960 Watts of solar on my van. I determined that my usage during the day required high discharge and recharge rates, (microwave, air conditioner), and true deep cycle batteries are not the best at this. At night a vent fan and a 12 volt refrigerator, a LED light. I also figured that I did not want a lot of batteries. My batteries only have to get me through the night.

A lot of "experts " boo hoo Walmart marine batteries, but that is what I went with. Two Maxx 29DC. They are about a hundred bucks apiece and have a two year warranty. Best I can figure they have about 100 amp hours each, (enough to run my night time stuff). Daytime comes the batteries charge from solar, propane generator, or driving the van, (installed a charge relay).

When shopping for solar panels consider how they will be placed on the roof. In my case 100 amp panels would have wasted a lot of roof space. There is room to put two next to each other , but then there is a space left over too small for a third panel. I went with 160 watt panels, (six of them), as placed sideways they cover the width of the van nicely so there is little wasted space. You can see my build here

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Why do you think you need AGM?

The cost a lot more for decent quality, like at least double per AH per year, harder to charge properly, unlikely to last anywhere near as long.

If you do have a good reason, then Lifeline and Odyssey are the best, Northstar is good, that's about it for most people.

Better to use 2-6V units in serial, avoid paralleling more than 2 strings.

After several weeks of watching videos my notes lead me to no golf cart and 12v AGMs.  I cannot tell you all the pros and cons off the top of my head but I will search for my notes.  I know the Lifetime Lithium are better but out of my budget.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

For batteries, this price is _very_ hard to beat.  

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...rod3590228.ip?xid=plp3990117-auto:product:1:1

For bringing power in, try this on for size.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ANV81S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far it's working well for me. Can't help much with the rest of your questions-- I paid someone to do a lot of the work, because I'm not handy. (Though I put in the plug and batteries myself, at least.)

rated at 13 amps?  That doesn't seem right.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

I installed 960 Watts of solar on my van. I determined that my usage during the day required high discharge and recharge rates, (microwave, air conditioner), and true deep cycle batteries are not the best at this.  At night a vent fan and a 12 volt refrigerator, a LED light.  I also figured that I did not want a lot of batteries. My batteries only have to get me through the night.

A lot of "experts " boo hoo Walmart marine batteries, but that is what I went with. Two Maxx 29DC. They are about a hundred bucks apiece and have a two year warranty. Best I can figure they have about 100 amp hours each, (enough to run my night time stuff). Daytime comes the batteries charge from solar, propane generator, or driving the van, (installed a charge relay).

When shopping for solar panels consider how they will be placed on the roof. In my case 100 amp panels would have wasted a lot of roof space. There is room to put two next to each other , but then there is a space left over too small for a third panel. I went with 160 watt panels, (six of them), as placed sideways they cover the width of the van nicely so there is little wasted space. You can see my build here

Danny, I found your post on another thread and am going to go read all of that when I finish replying to those who responded so quickly to me.  Appreciating this help.


 ran my wires down individually from the panels to the junction block and fuse holder. I did it this way so that if I wanted to reconfigure the system from 12 volts to 24 volts I could get at the wires real easy. I could also test one panel at a time very easy. I used this one, https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Way-Circuit-B...1a4e988820 The fuse doesn't care which way the electricity flows. Power comes down the wire into the fuse holder where it is combined in parallel with all the other panels and then goes to the controller. Between the controller and the batteries is a 60 amp circuit breaker.
I used 10 gauge wire that can handle 30 amps and the panels put out maybe 9 amps. I did this because the smaller the wire, the more resistance it has so the voltage drops more. There are advantages and disadvantages to most everything including wiring panels in series or in parallel. I like parallel because if one panel gets put into the shade, the others will still perform well. In series if one panel gets into the shade, all the panels in that circuit will stop working well. 
You can see my solar here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-d2PaYRnuw I am not monetized, so I am not trying to promote my channel here.
(This post was last modified: 05-26-2018, 07:12 PM by DannyB1954.)

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

One note, yes, we are going to get the fewest number of largest watts we can afford thinking of space.

 

[Rabbit]

rated at 13 amps?  That doesn't seem right.

It's plenty for me so far. Runs my 5000 BTU A/C unit while recharging my (large-ish) battery bank, no problem. Those are my only large draws.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

That's what we need - air conditioning. Wayne once got sun poisoning and since then doesn't do well in heat or fans would do. But we also need fridge power although initially that will be propane as we are going to get a 3-way. I know Jim in Denver has 1135 (some on trailer, some on truck) and has enough for everything he wants. I am hoping to go a bit less but am still figuring it all out.

Learned to search for "Tiny house wiring" and I'm getting some good videos that are teaching me some of what I need to know.

 

[John61CT]

For batteries, this price is _very_ hard to beat.

https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...rod3590228.ip?xid=plp3990117-auto:product:1:1

Yes, best value out there if FLA is possible.

Made by Deka, also sold at Batteries+

 

[DLTooley]

I go for a Walmart Marine for a single battery smaller system and if two batteries I'd go with a golf cart system. Your system will likely be bigger than a two battery. This is a significant expense and figuring things out ahead of time would be wise. Building slowly will also reduce the risk of damaging the entire system.

When you need the power makes a lot of difference. FLA only takes maximum power for a relatively short time - that leaves lots of excess in the afternoon, great for running AC. Otherwise this is a point in favor of a well designed lithium system.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

I go for a Walmart Marine for a single battery smaller system and if two batteries I'd go with a golf cart system.  Your system will likely be bigger than a two battery.  This is a significant expense and figuring things out ahead of time would be wise.  Building slowly will also reduce the risk of damaging the entire system.

When you need the power makes a lot of difference.  FLA only takes maximum power for a relatively short time - that leaves lots of excess in the afternoon, great for running AC.  Otherwise this is a point in favor of a well designed lithium system.

We are going for 2 years to start.  We will buy all the batteries at once and only just before we get the solar as we have plenty of means for camping without it.  Our take off date is about 11 months so waiting extends the battery life as well if we wait to purchase.  Then again, I just thought about Colorado winter and maybe it's best to finish the project before winter hits so we aren't rushed between good weather and take off day.

We will have the batteries inside the trailer with us so it's sealed AGM for us.  I think I'll stop by Batteries + and just chat with them and see what info they part with.

 

[Weight]

Most B+B are not good for information. They are salesmen. The only battery worth it from B+B is the Duracell golf cart flooded battery. Don't be all that worried about flooded batteries inside the van. I have six in a home built box with a small muffin fan to keep air flowing through the box. No odor. It is important to have a quality charger.

 

[John61CT]

Yes, pairs of flooded 6v 200+AH Duracell GCs, made by Deka. Also price Trojan T-105, but IMO not worth paying a lot more per AH.

If AGM really is needed then only Lifeline, Odyssey or Northstar are known good, but pricey. Maybe Surette, Full River or Trojan AGM, but not Duracell / Deka ones.

Nothing from automotive or big box retail is good value, unless you're scamming warranties.

 

[RoadtripsAndCampfires]

Thanks all. I was wrong about the no golf cart battery note in my notes. Thanks then John for the brands. The hardest part of the build was first figuring out the insulation, what and how. The second most difficult was determining how to fit my cot/beds in while still having the battery bank and water tank over the axles. I think I finally figured that out yesteday. So in all likelyhood we will go ahead and pick up the batteries soon - all at once so they are all the same age and work hours as we go along.

This build is a challenge in several things, one of them weight but the second one is safety. I'm going with the AGM as they are sealed and thus don't gas as well as they don't require the water maintenance that flooded lead acid do, we'll just have to monitor the draw, etc.

I mentioned priority of safety so here is my current project and brain storming subject: I'm going to design a cupboard that seals extemely well to the inside but opens from both the inside and the outside on the very front of the trailer. I want to hook up a hot water on demand shower to the propane on the tongue but acess the dials from the inside as well as the hose for using in shower and at sink. Thus the tank will be outside but we can still use it inside. I could also do this on the driver's side instead of the front as that's where the bathroom is and the side a connected water hose would be in the case of hookups, I'll have to see if the hose is long enough to get to the sink (where it will be most of the time unless we have unlimited water intake and drainage for showers/tub).