Batteries ON TOP of the van?

[thatswhatsup]

Hey Everyone!!

Still trying to plan out a solar setup for my van without drilling or cutting into the van (Ram Promaster City)..

Leaning towards lead acid as Lifepo4 and AGM are not well suited for budget solar, beginners, or especially both.
Also want to keep the batteries outside if I can, although I know many have survived just fine with lead acid batts in a non vented van. I just don't want to take the chance.

I was told the satellite radio / gps antennae on the roof can be removed exposing a large(ish) hole to route cables into the van:

(not my van)

Hopefully that should be good access for solar panel cable routing, and the plan was to mount the batteries under the van where the spare tire should go, BUT that will require cutting/drilling as there is no access to beneath the vehicle from inside.

So I started looking for more basket style roof racks like this:

Question is-- If protected from the elements, can the batteries be mounted on the roof rack with the panels? 
Then I should be able to route all cables through the same sat antennae / gps hole (if its big enough).

If not, and if i HAVE to mount the batteries beneath the van, is it realistic to route the battery cables back up to the roof so I can get them through that hole and into the van without cutting or drilling a new hole for the batteries?

sounds crazy, but if the cables were painted to match the van and were flush against the body, it might not stand out that much.
Then again, im not even sure if the cables themselves can be that long without affecting power.

Any input or ideas? Thanks as always!!

 

[SternWake]

Too much weight too high up.

Flooded batteries should not be exposed to rain water, neither should the connections be exposed to the elements.
The black cases will have sunlight heat them up too much and degrade them much faster.

Battery cables need to be thick. Alternator recharging of house bank needs to be considered for the times when solar cannot to anything significant. that circuit from alternator to roof would be so long, the cabling would have to be quite thick for effective recharging of a depleted battery.

Check out these 90 degree aerodynamic wire pass through and other options for the solar wires:

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-90-degree-solar-wire-roof-pass-through

 

[thatswhatsup]

Thanks for the great info as usual SternWake!
I was afraid of so much weight being so high, especially if I ever get rear-ended..

Back to the drawing board.. also thanks for the link! Will keep my eye on that for the panels

 

[rvpopeye]

The controller needs to be hooked up between the batteries and the panels.............

 

[SternWake]

The controller needs to be hooked up between the batteries and the panels.............

Yea,  that is not an insignificant detail too.

 

[BradKW]

I understand your aversion to cutting holes in a perfectly new and shiney vehicle, but I think it's something you need to work past. Maybe just start with a bottle of Jack and a 1/8' drill bit, put a few random holes through the floor, then a couple therapy sessions...should get ya over it

 

[Raven+Squid]

What will be the approx. weight of the batteries?

 

[Raven+Squid]

I understand your aversion to cutting holes in a perfectly new and shiney vehicle, but I think it's something you need to work past. Maybe just start with a bottle of Jack and a 1/8' drill bit, put a few random holes through the floor, then a couple therapy sessions...should get ya over it  

 

[rvpopeye]

Don't really do that the 1/8" drill bits will just break off !
Use at least a 1/4" !!!

 

[Spaceman Spiff]

What will be the approx. weight of the batteries?

Energizer GC2: 6V, 208 AH, 62 lbs. each. 

 -- Spiff

 

[JT646]

Here's the spec's on the Tesla Power Wall:

• TechnologyWall mounted, rechargeable lithium ion battery with liquid thermal control.
  
• Model[size=small]6.4 kWh $3,000For daily cycle applications[/size]
  
• WarrantyTen years
  
• Efficiency92.5% round-trip DC efficiency
  
• Power3.3 kW
  
• Depth of Discharge100%
  
• Voltage350 – 450 volts
  
• Current9.5 amperes

• CompatibilitySingle phase and three phase utility grid compatible.
  
• Operating Temperature-4°F to 122°F / -20°C to 50°C 
  
• EnclosureRated for indoor and outdoor installation.
  
• InstallationRequires installation by a trained electrician. DC-AC inverter not included.
  
• Weight214 lbs / 97 kg
  
• Dimensions51.3” x 34” x 7.2”
  1302 mm x 862 mm x 183 mm
  
• CertificationUL 9540, UL 1642, UL 1973
  AC156 seismic certification
  IEEE 693- 2005 seismic certification
  FCC Part 15 Class B
  
  

Someone may eventually figure out a way to utilize this in a camper van...you could be first!

 

[Raven+Squid]

Energizer GC2: 6V, 208 AH, 62 lbs. each. 

 -- Spiff

So 125 lbs, then panels, mounting hardware approx another 25lbs?? so 150lbs on top. While not ideal, I think it would  be OK. Your raising the center of gravity sure, but unless your into high speed turns or or off camber 4x4 roads I doubt in its that much more unsafe than normal driving. You see people with roof top tents or 2 bikes and a kayak or double cargo boxes, or even a slide in camper all lead to higher COG but its done all the time.


Your problem would be securing the batteries. This would involve...you guessed it...drilling into the van.

 

[skyl4rk]

Put the batteries on the floor just forward of the rear axle.

 

[Raven+Squid]

Put the batteries on the floor just forward of the rear axle.

This is best way to go.

 

[TMG51]

I'm not sure why it's been said unequivocally that this is "too much" weight up top. It's a fair amount of weight... Less than what I've seen stacked on roof racks... Probably less than the weight of my 24" fiberglass high top with overcab and bed! But I don't think it's ideal to have batteries on the roof regardless. In addition to weather issues, you will need to maintain them occasionally with distilled water too and that means getting to them easily.

x2 on whiskey and drill therapy. You're gonna need to mod this thing to do it right. If you're that worried about battery fumes just add a 3" computer fan somewhere with your batteries and let it run constant.

 

[GotSmart]

To drill through metal, buy a set of step drills.  (the gold ones) they work the best and do not have  the breakage problems the thin ones do.  Use oil to lubricate and keep the bit cool.  Buy plastic inserts to protect your wires from being damaged on the metal, and caulk the hole when you are 100% complete. 

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-10193A...qid=1460899820&sr=8-4&keywords=step+drill+bit

 

[ccbreder]

I don't know anyone that was harmed by a lead acid battery unless they were being foolish. Look at all the VW Beetles that were on the road.

 

[MrNoodly]

I saw a guy the other day who had an array of ten motorcycle batteries (along with a 100W panel) mounted to the rack of his Cherokee. I don't know how smart that is, but it's certainly a different way of doing it.

 

[ccbreder]

The problem is the size of the cables needed over the longer distance. That hole may not be large enough.

 

[SternWake]

Egads.

Of course the batteries 'could' be put on top of the van, it is not going to roll over just because of their additional weight.

Will such a roof rack be able to handle their weight and allow for a burly method to attach them, No doubt, with a good amount of additional fabrication

But heat destroys batteries.   
Is somebody going to fabricate a 100 MPH umbrella for them to keep sunlight and rain off  of them?

The solar controller is not waterproof.  So is one going to drill 2 holes in the roof just to pass the solar wires to the controller and 2 more holes to pass the wires back to the battery(s)?  Lets not forget the wires from the batteries to fuse block to power the loads, let's not forget the wires from the alternator. Likely needing to be 20+ feet long, each.

  So how many holes in the roof is that, 8?

Was not the whole reason for thinking about putting the batteries on the roof so one did not have to drill holes in the roof?

I am surprised so many keystrokes were dedicated to this thread.

Anything 'could' be done. 
 That does not mean it should be done, or even considered as a viable option just because it 'could'.