Any Seasoned Chevy Van owner's question?

[Rachel]

Hi,

I am looking into purchasing a chevy van 2010 to 2016, under 100k miles.

Anyone with experience living in a chevy van, please let me know, how much are your
yearly repairs?

Also, if you van is over 100K miles, what kind of repairs and cost would I be looking at?

That will help me a lot.

Thank you,
Rachel

 

[Firtree]

I always plan on any used vehicle to need tires, all 4. Flush of all fluids including and especially tranny, maybe hoses. Brakes, hopefully just front and only pads but could be everything. Now that would be expensive.
Battery, the biggest and strongest you can get.

This year had a fuel pump (gas tank had to be dropped), big battery and the normal oil changes. Over $1000
Budget $15-1800 a year, some years won’t use others you will use that and more. New tranny can run $3500-4000.

The van you are looking for —10-16 Chevy/GMC should be a good vehicle. Mine is an ‘98.
Get a 3/4 ton not a 1/2.

 

[Moxadox]

I had a 1 ton 2015 Chevy van, ran like a top and caused me no problems at all. I traded it because it was very low clearance and I realized I really need 4WD.

The Dire Wolfess

 

[RogerD]

I always plan on any used vehicle to need tires, all 4. Flush of all fluids including and especially tranny, maybe hoses. Brakes, hopefully just front and only pads but could be everything. Now that would be expensive.
Battery, the biggest and strongest you can get.

This year had a fuel pump (gas tank had to be dropped), big battery and the normal oil changes. Over $1000
Budget $15-1800 a year, some years won’t use others you will use that and more. New tranny can run $3500-4000.

The van you are looking for —10-16 Chevy/GMC should be a good vehicle. Mine is an ‘98.
Get a 3/4 ton not a 1/2.

If you don't know if the tranny has been flushed regularly (every 50K-60K) and it has a bunch of miles. It may be the dirty fluid that is keeping it from slipping and going to shit.  BE CAUTIOUS!

 

[MrNoodly]

Repairs aren't really yearly. There are maintenance items like oil & filter changes a few times a year, tires every couple of years, brake pads every four or five years, and so on, but those would be the case with any vehicle.

My '07 Express has 260K miles and some steering parts have needed to be replaced as well as some power steering hoses. But those are one time things. Most of the significant repairs would be one time things, and on a six year old van with 100k miles, those repairs would be very rare.

 

[MrNoodly]

Get a 3/4 ton not a 1/2.

It depends on how much stuff someone would be carrying around. I have a 3/4-ton Express and its overkill for what I carry. That means the off-pavement ride is harsh. However, there are also people with 1/2-ton vans that have so much stuff they would overload a 1-ton.

 

[beeStout]

Well, there's a maintenance schedule for everything on the road.  You could definitely look it up when you find something you're interested in.  Try to get something that's been fleet maintained maybe, but make sure that the fleet gives a darn.  Some just fix what will probably break and let other things go.

Generally though, at 100k you're looking at tranny fluid within 20k, Spark plugs, and probably wires and coilpacks.   You probably want to change the rear differntial fluid---but you could push that about the same as the tranny...20k.  Coolent too if it's never been done.  Check for leaks, and rust, especially brake lines and fuel tanks.

I can give you more information if you kind of settle on a particular motor.  Motors...and even trannys really have common gremlins.  A lot goes into how it's been treated.  I wouldn't buy a van that's been carrying really heavy loads for a long time.   I bought an older chevy van.  A 99 1 ton that had been a wheelchair transport for a private hospital.  That's heavy for carrying a couple people around and a lift at a time.  It sat a lot, but even sitting can cause issues with corrosion if it's in the winter-ing states...and it certainly did but I fixed it up.

Just from my own expericence working on this, these things were made to be used and the maintenance isn't too bad.  And 2wd is even a blessing because it's less to look after.   Think hard about what you'll take with you and what your build will weigh and how far you're going.   The 1/2 ton (1500), they're pretty light....they'll carry about half a ton-1000lbs but that's the capacity really and they prefer much less.

There's a big--enormous difference between transmissions, wheel bearings, shocks, springs, frame, power steering stuff from a 1500 to a 3500. If it's something you'll do for years think about that.

If you're going far a 2500 might be the best because 1 tons have a lower rear differential.   It's something you could have replaced fairly easy but it's probably 700-1000 to do so.  Try to find one with the heavier transmissions, but you probably don't need the really heavy motors.

 

[cortttt]

I've got a 2010 1-ton. Bought it from Penske with 65K on it. 

Three or four years later it's at about 140K. It's been through lots of rough, rough roads.

Repairs 

• replaced ignition key assembly - $700
• replaced front rotor - I did it myself - $100

That's it so far! Last spring it was not running so well. I looked at the mileage and realized that I'd put so many miles on it so quickly that I was behind on maintenance - replaced spark plugs, did transmission flush, brake flush, replaced power steering fluid, replaced a big belt, cleaned fuel injectors - and its running great. 

I try to keep the gas at least 1/4 tank fuel to avoid that expensive fuel pump problems (particularly in hot weather.)

I think it was probably used as a delivery vehicle in a business before i got it. The dealer said the key ware showed that it had been taken in and out of the ignition a lot. 

It's been a great van. I put a limited slip differential ($900) in it for more traction off road and sumo springs in the front. I also put good shocks (Bilstein) in. They helped immensely.

 

[closeanuf]

I would not recommend the transmission flush.  I would simply drain and refill and replace the transmission filter.  From what I have heard about flushes they force fluid thru the transmission and knock things loose.  There's also the school of thought that if the transmission fluid and filter have not been changed at recommended times then don't do anything.  I do however recommend cooling system flushes.  These are my opinions which have been formed with over 35 years experience in the auto parts and service business.  Opinions are like belly buttons; everybody has their own.

 

[cortttt]

I would not recommend the transmission flush.  I would simply drain and refill and replace the transmission filter.  From what I have heard about flushes they force fluid thru the transmission and knock things loose.  There's also the school of thought that if the transmission fluid and filter have not been changed at recommended times then don't do anything.  I do however recommend cooling system flushes.  These are my opinions which have been formed with over 35 years experience in the auto parts and service business.  Opinions are like belly buttons; everybody has their own.

 I've heard the same unless you've had the transmission serviced regularly? Would that make a difference?

Looking at the internet I see there's quite a bit of controversy over this. Thankfully, that flush went well. I will have to think again about it next time...

Thanks

 

[Rachel]

Thank you all for your information.
You have given me a lot, to think about and really appreciate all your input.

I am going to take good notes etc.

Thanks again,

Rachel

 

[jonthebru]

Good question, great responses. Even with all the newer models and designs the Chevy Express/ GMC Savana are still the best choice for a camper van build.

 

[cortttt]

I'm very happy with the 2010 1-ton extended van I have. Very reliable so far at 140K. 

I looked into all the potential cargo vans. Here were my conclusions - I'm sure others have other opinions. My priorities were a van that could handle a lot of rough roads and be reliable

• Ford Econoline - reliable but with big overhang at the back and not as fun to drive as the Chevy/GMC.
• Nissan NV - impressive! This van was almost neck and neck with the Chevy - tough ladder rack frame, lots of little updates on the van concept and it comes with a high top. My consideration was that it was just too short for the dogs and me, and I did wonder about finding a Nissan dealer in the boonies. Later I realized that the cargo area of the high top is actually equal to the Chevy/GMC extended van...
• Ford Transit - nice driver! Low clearance in the rear end, skimpy tires and worries about the unibody frame kept it from being a first pick. I also quickly got stuck several times in the desert which the GMC powered through. 
• Promaster - the folks at Enterprise told me they weren't getting any more Promasters in because of repair problems. 
• Sprinter - if only! Notorious emission problems and expensive repairs kept me from what otherwise would probably be an ideal vehicle. 
• Chevy/GMC - poor gas mileage, dated body style. lots of road noise, low windshield, etc - the body is definitely dated - and no high top - but wonderful engine/tranny combo, surprising good and fun to drive, tough ladder frame, good clearance and reliable. I got the base 4.8L and have loved it. The next one, though, is a high top, preferably unextended van....

 

[Homeless in Canada]

All the LS engines are rock solid but the best place to start a build is a one ton frame with the big 6.0 engine. The diesels are good too especially if the truck is going to be heavy or you plan on adding a trailer. Personally I would get an aerocell body.


These trucks are not that hard to work on you just have to move a lot of things out of the way like any van. And there's lots of craigslist mechanics who can fix these trucks in their sleep. There's also a lot of things you can do to improve fuel economy like taller gears and not putting bigger tires than you need.

 

[Artsyguy]

Been very happy with my 2015 Express 2500. Bought from a dealer at 22K miles, and it was a former Enterprise rental truck. Other than oil changes, I've had to replace front pads and rotors (at less than 30K miles). I'm now getting some shuttering on braking, so I'm assuming it's time to replace rear rotors and pads also. Currently have about 39K miles on it. Still driving on original Firestone street tires. I will replace those in the fall with a tire with more aggressive on/off road tread. Current tires will get stuck on wet grass if you don't park smart...

 

[JD GUMBEE]

I would not recommend the transmission flush.  I would simply drain and refill and replace the transmission filter.  From what I have heard about flushes they force fluid thru the transmission and knock things loose.

That is not true if they get flushed as I have always seen it done.
(Not the part about a flush sometimes coming shortly before a failure...I mean about "knocking things loose" being the cause.)
ATF, even dinosaur rendered ATF is highly detergent. There aren't deposits inside transmissions like engines produce.
Flushing an aged engine is a risk. Especially if it has been on dino oil with few changes. Not so with a transmission.

The fact is, if your trans fails after a flush, it was going to fail anyway.
You may find a few doing this (the ones I have seen torn down post "flush/failure" had obvious catastrophic wear issues and were compromised long before the fluid got changed) but it very rarely happens. I was told by the transmission guy, "if the ATF had lubricity like new ATF, it would not have worked. The new fluid was not loaded with particles of clutch material...and so post-flush, it could slip.
All a flush usually consists of is feeding new fluid into a cooler line till the return turns new color. That's it. (That is all I have ever done...the guys in two of the fleet shops said the same. There are no pressures involved that the vehicle does not make all on its own.)

To each his own but keeping old fluid in there because you are afraid of being jinxed by replacing burnt/contaminated fluid with new?? Not logical if you understand how they work. Your best bet is new fluid, not less than half of the old stuff left in the unit.

BTW, you risk getting grit inside the valve body more by dropping that pan than leaving it alone. Even a 15MPH wind can put granules in a valve body that can screw things up.

(Fuel pumps seem to let go right after a fill up, too.)

 

[popcorn2007]

I'm trying to buy a van myself and the vans with low mileage are over 10k. The vans 5k-9k are 05-08 ford econoline vans with the faulty plug and the vans under 5k have over 200k miles and look worn out. So i guess, with the time and effort of building out your van, at what point is buying a cheap van a bad option? If going cheap, i keeping thinking buying a work truck would be a better idea, even though i want a van more.

 

[Homeless in Canada]

I've flushed a few transmissions using the DIY method. Start by dropping the pan and changing the filter. Then disconnect the transmission oil cooler return line and put some clear plastic hose on the end of it so you can see what comes out. Have a buddy put the truck in drive and rev the motor with his foot pressed hard on the brake. This makes the internal pump push the old fluid out the cooler while you pour new fluid in. You have to watch how much oil comes out and shut the engine off as soon as you see air in the hose. Then add more oil equal to the amount that came out and start the truck again. If you do it right you'll eventually see the oil in the clear tubing turn from black to bright red as the new oil has worked it's way through the system and you're done. The DIY method will remove nearly all of the old fluid and is safer than taking it to a shop for a backflush because you're using the transmission to push the fluid out like it was designed to do.

 

[MrNoodly]

...the best place to start a build is a one ton frame with the big 6.0 engine.

Like I wrote before, it really depends on how much stuff you're going to carry/tow. A 3/4 or 1 ton van would be over-sprung and a harsh ride if there's a modest load. And you don't need a 6.0L engine with a light load. A 5.3 or even a 4.8 are enough.

 

[Homeless in Canada]

Like I wrote before, it really depends on how much stuff you're going to carry/tow. A 3/4 or 1 ton van would be over-sprung and a harsh ride if there's a modest load. And you don't need a 6.0L engine with a light load. A 5.3 or even a 4.8 are enough.

I'd rather a stiff ride and have a truck capable of doing everything I need it to do. 

On the highway the difference in fuel economy between a 3500/6.0 and a 1500/4.8 is negligible. But the difference in payload and dependability are real. That's why GM stopped building half tons. If you're going to travel light a Promaster or Transit with front wheel drive is a much better option.

The Chevy vans are built to work that's their niche. Tradesmen who need a rolling toolbox and a solid, RWD platform for upfitters and RVs. And the 6.0/6 speed combination is a winner. The 5.3 and 4.8 are both gone. They're not bad engines they just don't have a place in a truck that's built to work.

Over the life of the van the 1500/2500 will wear out faster and require more repairs while delivering little return in fuel economy. While the 3500 frame and 6.0 engine will hold up better and keep a higher resale value. Just the 6.0 block is worth $1000 more than a 5.3. because it's sought after by hot rodders.